Anyone interested in the new Redcat KAIJU MT 1/8

[KnowAir]

I've already got an OG kaiju and just bought the EXT a week ago. And a crawlers for Father's day. My budget is blown for the next long time

EXT conversion would be kicking! I'll drive the EXT today and let you know how differently it drives. It won't be used for the same type of driving as the OG, but I should get a good idea how different the LWB makes!

And yeah, in my excitement yesterday of putting on the 4074 and going over the truck, I forgot to solder on new connectors I'm sure I can run it a time or two on the adapters until I get more time.

Oh yeah, you can likely get away with adapters for the T-plugs. I think 4s is when I actually started melting T-plugs.. I don't think 6s melted them.. less amperage draw when running higher voltage, so less heat generated..

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Oh yeah, you can likely get away with adapters for the T-plugs. I think 4s is when I actually started melting T-plugs.. I don't think 6s melted them.. less amperage draw when running higher voltage, so less heat generated..

No issues with adapters just for today. I ran it about average and the batteries and plugs were barely warm.

The 4074 in the EXT is simply:

The right tool for the job. Just the right amount of on-demand torque without weighing excessive amounts. First run was good. Like it's older bro, the EXT suffers from excessive dampening with the stock shock setup. It bounces around on rough terrain quite a bit. Will need to work out with some tuning. Took a couple of flips and spills--nothing too crazy--but nothing broken. The 500k in the center diff was maybe a little on the stiff side, it gets a little squirrely on heavy throttle, but it will do for now.

The tires are narrower than the OG, so it's more prone to traction rolling, but front/rear-wise, it's pretty stable and controllable. Tires don't have much forward bite on soft terrain (that's to be expected with the tread design it has), but it made for good sliding on loose stuff. Didn't get much ripping in the field due to weather, so hoping to get that next time.

Ended the day slightly early because I lost a nut to the lower hinge pin in the rear. No biggy, easily solved with the 100pc lockout I got a few months ago.

Overall, a great value addition to the lineup at $330! Please with the purchase

 

[KnowAir]

No issues with adapters just for today. I ran it about average and the batteries and plugs were barely warm.

The 4074 in the EXT is simply:

The right tool for the job. Just the right amount of on-demand torque without weighing excessive amounts. First run was good. Like it's older bro, the EXT suffers from excessive dampening with the stock shock setup. It bounces around on rough terrain quite a bit. Will need to work out with some tuning. Took a couple of flips and spills--nothing too crazy--but nothing broken. The 500k in the center diff was maybe a little on the stiff side, it gets a little squirrely on heavy throttle, but it will do for now.

The tires are narrower than the OG, so it's more prone to traction rolling, but front/rear-wise, it's pretty stable and controllable. Tires don't have much forward bite on soft terrain (that's to be expected with the tread design it has), but it made for good sliding on loose stuff. Didn't get much ripping in the field due to weather, so hoping to get that next time.

Ended the day slightly early because I lost a nut to the lower hinge pin in the rear. No biggy, easily solved with the 100pc lockout I got a few months ago.

Overall, a great value addition to the lineup at $330! Please with the purchase

Sweet!! Glad to hear it's doing well. I just ordered up the bits to convert my OG to EXT. Boy do I wish I coulda swung the $330 and just went new!! LOL
I just spent $160 and still need to buy more to replace worn out steering arms, links and turnbuckle ends.. gonna stick with the 1450kv on 4s for now, add a fan or two. That motor really needs 6s though I think.
Those EXT tires would be good for hard pack..can't believe JRC still wants $80 a set when they're under $70 from Redcat? Oh well.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Sweet!! Glad to hear it's doing well. I just ordered up the bits to convert my OG to EXT. Boy do I wish I coulda swung the $330 and just went new!! LOL
I just spent $160 and still need to buy more to replace worn out steering arms, links and turnbuckle ends.. gonna stick with the 1450kv on 4s for now, add a fan or two. That motor really needs 6s though I think.
Those EXT tires would be good for hard pack..can't believe JRC still wants $80 a set when they're under $70 from Redcat? Oh well.

Already at $160 and more to spend? You were over half way there to a new EXT anyway! What did you need to convert to the EXT? Chassis, motor mount, driveshaft, and center skid piece? maybe wing mount/wing if you fancy?

Yeah Jenny's can be pretty unrealistic with prices sometimes. $80 shipped for a set of backflip LPs (when in stock)? When you can just buy two pairs off of amazon for $70 shipped and have amazon back you up if something is wrong? Or $29 shipped for two metal 4s diff input gears and some bearings when you can buy a single gear from amazon for $13 shipped? Seems like a no brainer to go with something like amazon in lots of cases.

Speaking of tires for the Kaiju--i've been thinking about the kraton 4s copperhead LPs for the OG kaiju. Why are those so cheap off jennys? Seems like if you get the offset for the kaiju sorted out, they might be a good pick for the kaiju? Atleast I wouldn't think they'd blow apart as easy as the stockers! As for the EXT, if the stockers ever give out, i'll probably buy a set of fireteam tires. They're ugly, but they would probably match the stock look decently well, and i hear they also handle speed well.

 

[KnowAir]

Already at $160 and more to spend? You were over half way there to a new EXT anyway! What did you need to convert to the EXT? Chassis, motor mount, driveshaft, and center skid piece? maybe wing mount/wing if you fancy?

Yeah Jenny's can be pretty unrealistic with prices sometimes. $80 shipped for a set of backflip LPs (when in stock)? When you can just buy two pairs off of amazon for $70 shipped and have amazon back you up if something is wrong? Or $29 shipped for two metal 4s diff input gears and some bearings when you can buy a single gear from amazon for $13 shipped? Seems like a no brainer to go with something like amazon in lots of cases.

Speaking of tires for the Kaiju--i've been thinking about the kraton 4s copperhead LPs for the OG kaiju. Why are those so cheap off jennys? Seems like if you get the offset for the kaiju sorted out, they might be a good pick for the kaiju? Atleast I wouldn't think they'd blow apart as easy as the stockers! As for the EXT, if the stockers ever give out, i'll probably buy a set of fireteam tires. They're ugly, but they would probably match the stock look decently well, and i hear they also handle speed well.

Here's what I've gotten so far.. plus front center driveshaft and input cup.. for whatever reason my Kaiju has an appetite for eating the front shaft and input cups. This will be my third pair.. for the EXT I needed the shaft regardless..

There's more than pictured here.. I had to break up the orders to use gift cards. $155.37 so far.
I just had to have the wing!! LOL.
I grabbed the +10mm extensions so I can open up the tire options. I run truggy racing tires with zero offset on most everything.
I've also stripped out numerous screw holes in the front gearbox over the years so needed one of those too. I'll have to see what all is going on with steering posts once I disect the truck. It's really sloppy in the steering. I have the aluminum rack upgrade installed but that didn't take away the slop. The steering posts and bearings in the Kaiju's are quite undersized IMO.. we'll see what's up.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Here's what I've gotten so far.. plus front center driveshaft and input cup.. for whatever reason my Kaiju has an appetite for eating the front shaft and input cups. This will be my third pair.. for the EXT I needed the shaft regardless..

View attachment 306857

View attachment 306858
There's more than pictured here.. I had to break up the orders to use gift cards. $155.37 so far.
I just had to have the wing!! LOL.
I grabbed the +10mm extensions so I can open up the tire options. I run truggy racing tires with zero offset on most everything.

DAAAANG, where you buying chassis' and complete motor mounts for $10 each, and bulkheads for $6??? Even redcat.toys, teamreadcatshop.com, etc don't have that good of prices. If you got a seller that's interested in getting another regular customer.... send over their info LOL.

I have the same steering slop issue with my Kaiju and, ironically, with my brand new EXT. I think the issue comes down to slop in the steering post. The pivot balls and eyelets are all pretty solid, the casters and steering knuckles don't really move, and the servo doesn't have have any movement. But when i wiggle the steering back and forth, i can see the steering arm/bellcrank move up and down and lean. This piece:

And that causes movement in the whole steering assembly.

Idk if maybe the cause is the plastic steering posts, or the plastic bellcrank (part above), but I think there's an area for Redcat to have improved on (or released an upgrade part). Sadly I don't see any aluminum options though.

 

[KnowAir]

DAAAANG, where you buying chassis' and complete motor mounts for $10 each, and bulkheads for $6??? Even redcat.toys, teamreadcatshop.com, etc don't have that good of prices. If you got a seller that's interested in getting another regular customer.... send over their info LOL.

I have the same steering slop issue with my Kaiju and, ironically, with my brand new EXT. I think the issue comes down to slop in the steering post. The pivot balls and eyelets are all pretty solid, the casters and steering knuckles don't really move, and the servo doesn't have have any movement. But when i wiggle the steering back and forth, i can see the steering arm/bellcrank move up and down and lean. This piece:
View attachment 306886
And that causes movement in the whole steering assembly.

Idk if maybe the cause is the plastic steering posts, or the plastic bellcrank (part above), but I think there's an area for Redcat to have improved on (or released an upgrade part). Sadly I don't see any aluminum options though.

HaHa! I buy from wherever I find the best price on what I need.. I mean there are some shady sites of course but.. Typically I go to say Jenny's and grab part numbers and then google search.. also throw those numbers into Ebay's search as well. Funny, after I ordered these parts I'm like aw man, I coulda got this or that for less!? LOL
There's actually alot of kit breakers on ebay these days. Heck, I just found one a few weeks ago that's located like 15 minutes from my house! I don't think they have a store front though..
Here's a couple ebay sellers I used today..
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ss...rcparts1&_oac=1&_trksid=p2349624.m3561.l49496
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ss...usedeals&_oac=1&_trksid=p2349624.m3561.l49496
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ss...erestinc&_oac=1&_trksid=p2349624.m3561.l49496
I found that Redcat Racing has much more favorable shipping rates thru ebay than their own website..
I bought a Shredder body from their ebay store which was the same price as their website. Difference being $20+ for shipping vs $4.95 thru ebay..
..also, checkout "lumidave35"..
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ss...midave35&_oac=1&_trksid=p2349624.m3561.l49496

 

[KnowAir]

And that causes movement in the whole steering assembly.

Idk if maybe the cause is the plastic steering posts, or the plastic bellcrank (part above), but I think there's an area for Redcat to have improved on (or released an upgrade part). Sadly I don't see any aluminum options though.

I agree, this is where I see the most freeplay on mine too.. actually I see this on my Arrma's and Corally as well.. I attempted to shim the posts on my Kronos the last time I had it apart. Guess I over shimmed it cuz when I put it back together the steering was binding pretty badly. So I had to tear it back apart and remove the shims.. sadly, I was in a rush (as always) and didn't get to shim it properly..
This time, I'm gonna take my time with the Kaiju!!

 

[slick2500]

I agree, this is where I see the most freeplay on mine too.. actually I see this on my Arrma's and Corally as well.. I attempted to shim the posts on my Kronos the last time I had it apart. Guess I over shimmed it cuz when I put it back together the steering was binding pretty badly. So I had to tear it back apart and remove the shims.. sadly, I was in a rush (as always) and didn't get to shim it properly..
This time, I'm gonna take my time with the Kaiju!!

90% of the freeplay on my Arrmas is the upper a arms, even brand new it is like the holes are way too big for the pins.

 

[KnowAir]

90% of the freeplay on my Arrmas is the upper a arms, even brand new it is like the holes are way too big for the pins.

That's another area I see too.. TC arms is worses than Arrma's in this regard for sure.. but I can literally see the steering arms moving up and down as I push/pull at a wheel..
The Kaiju uses C hubs, they develop slop vertically like the steer arms I suppose..
My Kaiju has been through like 3 world wars I think so.. is what it is. Rebuild time!!

 

[KnowAir]

Grrr!! Dang you Redcat!! So the 1450kv is a bust for me and the Kaiju EXT. The EXT motor mount won't even accept a 13t pinion with 50t spur!? Boo!! Lame!! Guess I'll be lifting a 2000kv motor from something else in my fleet... Oh well.
Check out my front diff input cup.. this is cup #2..

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Grrr!! Dang you Redcat!! So the 1450kv is a bust for me and the Kaiju EXT. The EXT motor mount won't even accept a 13t pinion with 50t spur!? Boo!! Lame!! Guess I'll be lifting a 2000kv motor from something else in my fleet... Oh well.
Check out my front diff input cup.. this is cup #2..

Yeah I did notice the range of adjustment on the EXT mount was limited. I thought I could get a pinion with at least a few more teeth on there. You're saying it was tapped out at stock size? Kind of lame that it limits your kv then. The kraton motor then really is the perfect choice it seems!

I'm sure my diff cups are just as bad, still on my first set. But if I don't look, I don't know how bad they are, and I don't feel the need to replace them! Ignorance is bliss right??

 

[KnowAir]

What's stock pinion for OG Kaiju 10t? I really don't remember.. I settled for a 12t with 50t Losi spur. Truggy race tires, 2000kv Surpass 4074. It's okay on 4s. Started raining as I was stickering up the body.13t pinion puts the mount out to "open" position where I'm afraid it'll fall right out on a jump..
Might be some 5s batteries in my future.. not sure. They're kinda pricey due to low popularity I think..add lipo alarm, turn off LVC
6s was simply too much in OG, maybe EXT handles it better? Needs brick pack though, was sad they deleted the battery supports from the OG model.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

What's stock pinion for OG Kaiju 10t? I really don't remember.. I settled for a 12t with 50t Losi spur. Truggy race tires, 2000kv Surpass 4074. It's okay on 4s. Started raining as I was stickering up the body.13t pinion puts the mount out to "open" position where I'm afraid it'll fall right out on a jump..
Might be some 5s batteries in my future.. not sure. They're kinda pricey due to low popularity I think..add lipo alarm, turn off LVC
6s was simply too much in OG, maybe EXT handles it better? Needs brick pack though, was sad they deleted the battery supports from the OG model.

Stock for the OG is 10t. Stock on the EXT is 12t, so ironic that motor mount is maxed out with a 12t. It's like redcat doesn't recognize that motors exist below 2000kv and what is someone going to go higher KV on this so they can gear down to a 9t pinion..??? LOL

A low c rating 6s brick is perfect for this truck. It doesn't have the wheelie-happy nature that the OG has. Unless you really jam the throttle, it's pretty controllable.

Actually, most of the time I just break traction when I get throttle heavy. The tread design helps with that as it isn't grippy on loose terrain, and they don't have the diameter or mass that the OG tires do to pitch it back the same way. I think 6s on the LWB EXT is much more a better fit.

I'm going to have to get my GPS out and clock this thing. I was having a hard time even letting the taps fully open out on a grassy field. This thing is wicked fast for a redcat.. I have a 40mm fan blowing on the motor (only running at the BECs measly 5.0v or whatever), but even after 3 full field long full power passes back and forth, the motor wasn't even warm enough for me to feel the need to pull my temp gun out.

I did notice they don't have the battery supports. Probably because the receiver box is right there. Maybe you can Jerry rig the OG one on?

 

[KnowAir]

Stock for the OG is 10t. Stock on the EXT is 12t, so ironic that motor mount is maxed out with a 12t. It's like redcat doesn't recognize that motors exist below 2000kv and what is someone going to go higher KV on this so they can gear down to a 9t pinion..??? LOL

A low c rating 6s brick is perfect for this truck. It doesn't have the wheelie-happy nature that the OG has. Unless you really jam the throttle, it's pretty controllable.

Actually, most of the time I just break traction when I get throttle heavy. The tread design helps with that as it isn't grippy on loose terrain, and they don't have the diameter or mass that the OG tires do to pitch it back the same way. I think 6s on the LWB EXT is much more a better fit.

I'm going to have to get my GPS out and clock this thing. I was having a hard time even letting the taps fully open out on a grassy field. This thing is wicked fast for a redcat.. I have a 40mm fan blowing on the motor (only running at the BECs measly 5.0v or whatever), but even after 3 full field long full power passes back and forth, the motor wasn't even warm enough for me to feel the need to pull my temp gun out.

I did notice they don't have the battery supports. Probably because the receiver box is right there. Maybe you can Jerry rig the OG one on?

Good info thanks The new motor mount is definitely much beefier, can't say I'm afan of the mesh setting procedure. Have to set it way loose as it gets tighter when I tighten down the pinch bolt. I used a piece of paper doubled up and ended up just right. Gearing options are very limited indeed. I'm still running the earplugs in the center diff, on 4s it's really good, wondering how wheelie prone it might be on 6s? Might have to rework the center diff. I put +10mm hub extensions on it to run the zero offset wheels, pretty sweet there although I think I bent a stub axle already, got a wobble. Maybe it was already bent and now more obvious, not sure. I got a box of spare cvds and stubs though.
Kaiju bodies and I don't get along apparently, not one pack through and the rear of the body has already ripped/cracked, near the post hole along the edge of the bed..speaking of which, terrible placement of the body post holes..they're recessed and right at the edge of the body? Hmm.
I have to tune the shocks for sure, it's really bouncy now on the extended chassis. I think it is a success though for my use, much more planted with much better on throttle steering.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Good info thanks The new motor mount is definitely much beefier, can't say I'm afan of the mesh setting procedure. Have to set it way loose as it gets tighter when I tighten down the pinch bolt. I used a piece of paper doubled up and ended up just right. Gearing options are very limited indeed. I'm still running the earplugs in the center diff, on 4s it's really good, wondering how wheelie prone it might be on 6s? Might have to rework the center diff. I put +10mm hub extensions on it to run the zero offset wheels, pretty sweet there although I think I bent a stub axle already, got a wobble. Maybe it was already bent and now more obvious, not sure. I got a box of spare cvds and stubs though.
Kaiju bodies and I don't get along apparently, not one pack through and the rear of the body has already ripped/cracked, near the post hole along the edge of the bed..speaking of which, terrible placement of the body post holes..they're recessed and right at the edge of the body? Hmm.
I have to tune the shocks for sure, it's really bouncy now on the extended chassis. I think it is a success though for my use, much more planted with much better on throttle steering.

View attachment 307953

View attachment 307954

Looking awesome! Really like the truggy tires on that, and the bumper too.

Yeah i'll need some tuning as well: Back end keeps sliding out for me on the EXT, can't keep it straight for the life of me if there is any sort of slip in the terrain (dirt/gravel). Grass is the only surface I can keep it straight on, but that's high grip. Maybe it has to do with the 500k i put in the center diff and didn't touch the front or rear They're about as looses-goosey as it gets. I'm thinking if I put a little bit thicker in the front that might help. Really, i should crack both front and rear diffs and ACTUALLY fill them, but that requires work... LOL. It also seems to lean quite a bit, so i'm thinking the OG sway bars would help. Otherwise, i just need time under the belt driving this thing and messing with stuff to dial it in. I was tempted to buy some duratrax tires for it, get a better tread design, but despite the cheap price right now, i have a feeling i'd just regret that purchase.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Good info thanks The new motor mount is definitely much beefier, can't say I'm afan of the mesh setting procedure. Have to set it way loose as it gets tighter when I tighten down the pinch bolt. I used a piece of paper doubled up and ended up just right. Gearing options are very limited indeed. I'm still running the earplugs in the center diff, on 4s it's really good, wondering how wheelie prone it might be on 6s? Might have to rework the center diff. I put +10mm hub extensions on it to run the zero offset wheels, pretty sweet there although I think I bent a stub axle already, got a wobble. Maybe it was already bent and now more obvious, not sure. I got a box of spare cvds and stubs though.
Kaiju bodies and I don't get along apparently, not one pack through and the rear of the body has already ripped/cracked, near the post hole along the edge of the bed..speaking of which, terrible placement of the body post holes..they're recessed and right at the edge of the body? Hmm.
I have to tune the shocks for sure, it's really bouncy now on the extended chassis. I think it is a success though for my use, much more planted with much better on throttle steering.

View attachment 307953

View attachment 307954

I did notice the placement of the rear body posts too... I think they were trying to reinforce the rear body post hole area, but yeah it ends up just being annoying to get the pins in an out! And agreed about the motor mesh. I was able to get a really good mesh, but every time you tighten the clamp, it does move slightly! So it just took a little backing off and trial and error, but overall i was able to get a really close mesh and was happy with it.

 

[KnowAir]

Looking awesome! Really like the truggy tires on that, and the bumper too.

Yeah i'll need some tuning as well: Back end keeps sliding out for me on the EXT, can't keep it straight for the life of me if there is any sort of slip in the terrain (dirt/gravel). Grass is the only surface I can keep it straight on, but that's high grip. Maybe it has to do with the 500k i put in the center diff and didn't touch the front or rear They're about as looses-goosey as it gets. I'm thinking if I put a little bit thicker in the front that might help. Really, i should crack both front and rear diffs and ACTUALLY fill them, but that requires work... LOL. It also seems to lean quite a bit, so i'm thinking the OG sway bars would help. Otherwise, i just need time under the belt driving this thing and messing with stuff to dial it in. I was tempted to buy some duratrax tires for it, get a better tread design, but despite the cheap price right now, i have a feeling i'd just regret that purchase.

Idk what is causing it to loose the rear.. my f/r diffs are very loose too. Say 10k front and 7k rear? I think I threw a splash of 100k into the front last time apart I believe thicker fluid in f/r actually makes them less controllable? Don't quote me but, if you look at any racing setup, they're always filled with much thinner fluids than a basher. I'm in identity crisis mode with mine, LOL. It's an HCG MT, I'm trying to use it on a track That's just what my brother and I like to do with our rigs.. they're/we're not racers of course but we have fun so
I actually do have a front sway bar on mine, I think it came off a Redcat Avalanche, can't remember but it's really beefy compared to what they sell for the Kaiju. I had to grind out the recess in the gearbox cover to fit it as it's way too thick.
I may just have to go with a small 6s brick for it. Just makes more sense than 4s. 4s was "okay" in OG but, doesn't seem enough now with EXT.
On another note, I installed the Queens hobby 1450kv into my Mojo armed Kraton with 20t pinion, 6s, loves it!! Might try and throw a 22t on it. Think 21t is what it needs but I don't have..

I did notice the placement of the rear body posts too... I think they were trying to reinforce the rear body post hole area, but yeah it ends up just being annoying to get the pins in an out! And agreed about the motor mesh. I was able to get a really good mesh, but every time you tighten the clamp, it does move slightly! So it just took a little backing off and trial and error, but overall i was able to get a really close mesh and was happy with it.

Seems the body holes line up perfectly to the OG mounts..unfortunately the EXT body is narrower so that puts the holes close to the outer edges of the body. Wouldn't have been my choice.. I may have to look at moving the posts inward towards the center more..I will say however that I do love the look of the EXT body with wing. I made my own body mounts from aluminum angle for the OG a couple years ago. Fit perfectly to the EXT body too. I'll see if I can move the posts inward, drill new holes then hot glue the old holes and crack. I've had great success with repairing cracked bodies with hot glue.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

Idk what is causing it to loose the rear.. my f/r diffs are very loose too. Say 10k front and 7k rear? I think I threw a splash of 100k into the front last time apart I believe thicker fluid in f/r actually makes them less controllable? Don't quote me but, if you look at any racing setup, they're always filled with much thinner fluids than a basher. I'm in identity crisis mode with mine, LOL. It's an HCG MT, I'm trying to use it on a track That's just what my brother and I like to do with our rigs.. they're/we're not racers of course but we have fun so
I actually do have a front sway bar on mine, I think it came off a Redcat Avalanche, can't remember but it's really beefy compared to what they sell for the Kaiju. I had to grind out the recess in the gearbox cover to fit it as it's way too thick.
I may just have to go with a small 6s brick for it. Just makes more sense than 4s. 4s was "okay" in OG but, doesn't seem enough now with EXT.
On another note, I installed the Queens hobby 1450kv into my Mojo armed Kraton with 20t pinion, 6s, loves it!! Might try and throw a 22t on it. Think 21t is what it needs but I don't have..

Seems the body holes line up perfectly to the OG mounts..unfortunately the EXT body is narrower so that puts the holes close to the outer edges of the body. Wouldn't have been my choice.. I may have to look at moving the posts inward towards the center more..I will say however that I do love the look of the EXT body with wing. I made my own body mounts from aluminum angle for the OG a couple years ago. Fit perfectly to the EXT body too. I'll see if I can move the posts inward, drill new holes then hot glue the old holes and crack. I've had great success with repairing cracked bodies with hot glue.

That's a thought... I had considered just re punching holes closer together, like you mentioned. Maybe worth a shot.

I know what you mean about thinner diff fluids. I used to run my HPI bullet as a street basher a while back. Diff were running basically "moist" after all the fluid had leaked out. It would diff out to one wheel all the time on heavy throttle, But consequently, it would also corner on a dime! When i finally went it to service and refill the diffs, all i had at the time was 30k. So the front got 30k. Needless to say, cornering suffered

I'm not sure why bashers always use heavier weight oil than racers, maybe because they run too much power? Desire to wheelie?

I'm in identity crisis mode with mine, LOL. It's an HCG MT, I'm trying to use it on a track That's just what my brother and I like to do with our rigs..

I'm with you. That's why the MT410 is so much fun. Watching the suspension just soak up the bumps while continuously putting power down is super satisfying. Half the fun is the body roll and the risk of flipping over! Takes more skill to keep the lumbering MTs on 4 wheels when cornering fast! At least that's what i'll keep telling myself.

 

[Hector_Fisher]

@KnowAir, I saw this posted on sale at rcjuice.
https://www.rcjuice.com/sale/hobbys...s-motor-temperature-protection-1-8-truck.html

And then I remembered our conversation about the pinion sizes available for the EXT...