Typhon Stock Electronics Typhon 6S - 98MPH

[SrC]

I’m liking the Infraction for speed runs, especially since it’ll easily fit larger batteries without mods. I’m looking at the Corvette body for the Infraction, as it’s beautiful and functional. I’ll probably make my own cap pack as well. I’ve ordered the Max 6 with the 1650kv motor as well, but I’m not looking for super high speeds.

In the video, I was running 29/46.

Yea I have the V1 Lim with the same Infr. Longer lipo trays. More lipo choices available.
What I hate most about the V2 Lim. is those shorter trays.
A V2 Lim with a nice $CF upgrade chassis$ would solve that easily IMHO. Thought about it. The PP chassis.
Lipo tray aside, the V2 Lim has been improved substantially in other areas. Nice coming with the Clear Lim. body too, A plus.

 

[SrC]

Regular bearings, nothing special about them. I remove every bearing, pop off the seals, clean the grease out, and then oil them with full synthetic oil and put the seals back on. I’ve been doing this for over 15 years on my RCs, even the larger tra**as RCs. Only bearings I’ve ever blown was from overhearing a .28 SH nitro engine.

I’m pretty sure I’m at the barrier or super close to it as well.

I’m liking the Infraction for speed runs, especially since it’ll easily fit larger batteries without mods. I’m looking at the Corvette body for the Infraction, as it’s beautiful and functional. I’ll probably make my own cap pack as well. I’ve ordered the Max 6 with the 1650kv motor as well, but I’m not looking for super high speeds.

In the video, I was running 29/46.

Wow, what I exactly run in my Lim. 29/46. Using a diff, not the Spool right now, with 1Mil. 100mph+ speeds really need the Spool. Or you waste some of that power from diff bleeding. A spool can get you considerably more speed once you break into triple digits. IMHO.

 

[Greengaunja]

Wow, what I exactly run in my Lim. 29/46. Using a diff, not the Spool right now, with 1Mil. 100mph+ speeds really need the Spool. Or you waste some of that power from diff bleeding. A spool can get you considerably more speed once you break into triple digits. IMHO.

I run a center diff too and always wondered how much, if any, power is lost. Honestly, with the 20m diff fluid the only way I've managed to turn the outputs opposite directions is with one end in a vice and a wrench on the other.

 

[SrC]

Yeah you are pretty much locked out with 20 mil.
A spool is better overall. Less totating mass, less amp draw when spoolng it up hard.
A spool isnt reallly good for bashing and drifting IMHO. Because of the longish wheelbase, and short track width, makes it hard. to. Better a more open diff. 500k at most. Or lower cst as desired.

 

[dgitalchaos]

Wow, what I exactly run in my Lim. 29/46. Using a diff, not the Spool right now, with 1Mil. 100mph+ speeds really need the Spool. Or you waste some of that power from diff bleeding. A spool can get you considerably more speed once you break into triple digits. IMHO.

I’m fairly certain the body on the Infraction causes a lot of drag, especially compared to the Typhon 6S. You can hear it whoosh by. My goal was simply to see if I could hit 100MPH being the most stock possible.

Yea I have the V1 Lim with the same Infr. Longer lipo trays. More lipo choices available.
What I hate most about the V2 Lim. is those shorter trays.
A V2 Lim with a nice $CF upgrade chassis$ would solve that easily IMHO. Thought about it. The PP chassis.
Lipo tray aside, the V2 Lim has been improved substantially in other areas. Nice coming with the Clear Lim. body too, A plus.

I like the Infraction, but like the Typhon 6S better. Much more versatile. It handles off-road really well, speeds very well, and I can take it to the track (public track near me). I need to find a really nice long road to do speed runs. These Colorado roads have a lot of potholes.

 

[SrC]

Guys were speed running the Typhon well over 100mph way before the Lim and Infr were even a thing. Then Arrma brought the All road models because speed running became a thing.
Careful with the Typhon though, the nose will lift on a windy day or if it sits too high at around 100mph. Need to slam the Typhon very low. Sightly raked higher at the rear. And flatten the rear wing more. Stiffen the shocks a bit. Then shoot for over 100mph.
That is where the Aero of a Lim's nose piece is important. Not sub 100mph. Most any rig can do that. The Lims body was tested for those higher speeds.
At some point, the Open wheel Lim body design does reach a speed wall . The wheels themselves create drag. And consume more Amps. It's why GT bodies are reaching the record PB's these days. Closed wheeled bodies are best.
The tall Fr shock tower of a Typhon really creates much drag right there alone. The Lim/ Infr run the same Control arms. Many guys are using the Lim Towers and shocks on their dedicated speed runner Typhons.

 

[dgitalchaos]

I run a center diff too and always wondered how much, if any, power is lost. Honestly, with the 20m diff fluid the only way I've managed to turn the outputs opposite directions is with one end in a vice and a wrench on the other.

I’m not certain too much power is lost. On the stock Typhon 6S, the center diff is 10,000 CST, and with the stock unmodified 50T spur, I managed 95MPH with stock tires as well. After blowing the stock tires, I consistently get 94 MPH with the 53/107 Hoons. After putting the Infraction center diff (46T) with 20M weight into the Typhon, I consistently get 98MPH. Diffs have a different ratio (2.8 Infraction vs. 3.3 Typhon), so the Infraction is faster.

 

[Greengaunja]

I’m not certain too much power is lost. On the stock Typhon 6S, the center diff is 10,000 CST, and with the stock unmodified 50T spur, I managed 95MPH with stock tires as well. After blowing the stock tires, I consistently get 94 MPH with the 53/107 Hoons. After putting the Infraction center diff (46T) with 20M weight into the Typhon, I consistently get 98MPH. Diffs have a different ratio (2.8 Infraction vs. 3.3 Typhon), so the Infraction is faster.

My current build may see me drop diff ratio to 2.8 too for the same reason. Want to try first as I don't want to "ruin" anything I found worked with the EXB speed run build. Namely lack of parachuting and front pop ups. But honestly, there are so many changes that it's probably another month of nightly tests, adjustments, and tweaks to fine tune it. The build is almost 100% custom based on Senton specs.

 

[dgitalchaos]

Guys were speed running the Typhon well over 100mph way before the Lim and Infr were even a thing. Then Arrma brought the All road models because speed running became a thing.
Careful with the Typhon though, the nose will lift on a windy day or if it sits too high at around 100mph. Need to slam the Typhon very low. Sightly raked higher at the rear. And flatten the rear wing more. Stiffen the shocks a bit. Then shoot for over 100mph.
That is where the Aero of a Lim's nose piece is important. Not sub 100mph. Most any rig can do that. The Lims body was tested for those higher speeds.
At some point, the Open wheel Lim body design does reach a speed wall . The wheels themselves create drag. And consume more Amps. It's why GT bodies are reaching the record PB's these days. Closed wheeled bodies are best.
The tall Fr shock tower of a Typhon really creates much drag right there alone. The Lim/ Infr run the same Control arms. Many guys are using the Lim Towers and shocks on their dedicated speed runner Typhons.

I really need a better road. The Typhon and Infraction lose speed due to hitting random road bumps. The Typhon arms are also the same as the Infraction and Limitless. I think the Infraction body creates more drag than the Typhon. The Typhon also feels smoother and doesn’t cut out nearly as much as the Infraction, both having stock systems.

 

[SrC]

The Infr. body is far from aero. Too much amp draw, and cutting because of this. And "AVC" is not all that. I rather use a standalone or other brand gyro RX/Tx.
But I installed a flat onto the roll bars on the bed. The bed looks like a "fast back" straight to the rear wing now. It hooks up much better now. Less air turbulance behind the Cab. Less drag. Need to also trim the rear Infr wing a good amount.
But bad roads are simply bad ones. Too dangerous IMHO. Carnage galore.

I really need a better road. The Typhon and Infraction lose speed due to hitting random road bumps. The Typhon arms are also the same as the Infraction and Limitless. I think the Infraction body creates more drag than the Typhon. The Typhon also feels smoother and doesn’t cut out nearly as much as the Infraction, both having stock systems.

If losing that much speed due to just Bumps. Defintely don't run there. NG.
Took me a few years or so actually, to figure out what, which and where I speed run best. No bumps allowed. Not even one divit. Will ruin your day in a heartbeat. It only takes that one you never see, and its over. Totaled out my Lim twice over. Was cheaper to buy 2 more Lim rollers. I look for good roads now. Won't run otherwise.

 

[SrC]

Regular bearings, nothing special about them. I remove every bearing, pop off the seals, clean the grease out, and then oil them with full synthetic oil and put the seals back on. I’ve been doing this for over 15 years on my RCs, even the larger tra**as RCs. Only bearings I’ve ever blown was from overhearing a .28 SH nitro engine.

I’m pretty sure I’m at the barrier or super close to it as well.

I’m liking the Infraction for speed runs, especially since it’ll easily fit larger batteries without mods. I’m looking at the Corvette body for the Infraction, as it’s beautiful and functional. I’ll probably make my own cap pack as well. I’ve ordered the Max 6 with the 1650kv motor as well, but I’m not looking for super high speeds.

In the video, I was running 29/46.

Yeah I make my own cap packs also. I recommend only using 50v caps for 6s running. Not 35v caps for instance.
I learned that you need to roughly double the Cap's volts of the total pack's voltage. 35v caps wouldn't cut it in my opinion. I have used them before. But one cap failed early on. Could be for this reason too. IDK. But voltage spikes exceeding a cap packs Voltage spec. spells disaster.
Panasonic Golds are good. Lowest ESR ratigs. If you can find legit and "Fresh" ones. And not Bootleg knock offs. They are out there in the wild too. A vendor that is legit and sells alot of caps, moving inventory quick is best. Some are very expensive.
Caps do have a shelf life. Sitting around for years is NG. If the vendor sells their caps on the "Tape" strips direct from production to you, they are best , and matched much better. I use breadboards cut to size and mount 6 or 8 in parallel. To maximize the total MicroFard rating of the pack. At a minimum, I shoot for 18k-20k + uf when I can. I only run 6s .
My 2 cents.

 

[dgitalchaos]

Yeah I make my own cap packs also. I recommend only using 50v caps for 6s running. Not 35v caps for instance.
I learned that you need to roughly double the Cap's volts of the total pack's voltage. 35v caps wouldn't cut it in my opinion. I have used them before. But one cap failed early on. Could be for this reason too. IDK. But voltage spikes exceeding a cap packs Voltage spec. spells disaster.
Panasonic Golds are good. Lowest ESR ratigs. If you can find legit and "Fresh" ones. And not Bootleg knock offs. They are out there in the wild too. A vendor that is legit and sells alot of caps, moving inventory quick is best. Some are very expensive.
Caps do have a shelf life. Sitting around for years is NG. If the vendor sells their caps on the "Tape" strips direct from production to you, they are best , and matched much better. I use breadboards cut to size and mount 6 or 8 in parallel. To maximize the total MicroFard rating of the pack. At a minimum, I shoot for 18k-20k + uf when I can. I only run 6s .
My 2 cents.

I’ll push the stock system to its maximum (which I think I’m there on the Infraction), but do have stuff ordered for faster runs. I’ll look into the Panasonic ones for sure! I also rebalanced my Hoons, as my son was messing with the weights.

 

[Greengaunja]

The Infr. body is far from aero. Too much amp draw, and cutting because of this. And "AVC" is not all that. I rather use a standalone or other brand gyro RX/Tx.
But I installed a flat onto the roll bars on the bed. The bed looks like a "fast back" straight to the rear wing now. It hooks up much better now. Less air turbulance behind the Cab. Less drag. Need to also trim the rear Infr wing a good amount.
But bad roads are simply bad ones. Too dangerous IMHO. Carnage galore.

If losing that much speed due to just Bumps. Defintely don't run there. NG.
Took me a few years or so actually, to figure out what, which and where I speed run best. No bumps allowed. Not even one divit. Will ruin your day in a heartbeat. It only takes that one you never see, and its over. Totaled out my Lim twice over. Was cheaper to buy 2 more Lim rollers. I look for good roads now. Won't run otherwise.

Bumps are a straight NOPE from me. Hell sudden elevation changes would cause a Chassis slap into oblivion with the last build being drooped practically all the way down.

 

[SrC]

I’ll push the stock system to its maximum (which I think I’m there on the Infraction), but do have stuff ordered for faster runs. I’ll look into the Panasonic ones for sure! I also rebalanced my Hoons, as my son was messing with the weights.

I find my wheels last longer when they are balanced. Less blowouts. Yeah it is easy to mess up the clay weights. Best way is to balance the new wheels is after a quick pack run in. To burn off the Molding seems etc. Then balance them. I might rebalance the wheels once again, before they are completly done during their life. The passes are also smoother. I balance any wheel , Bashers and all of them.
Except my Crawlers of course. That would be silly, if even possible on Bead Lock wheels. No advantage with 3 MPH crawlers.

 

[dgitalchaos]

I find my wheels last longer when they are balanced. Less blowouts. Yeah it is easy to mess up the clay weights. Best way is to balance the new wheels is after a quick pack run in. To burn off the Molding seems etc. Then balance them. I might rebalance the wheels once again, before they are completly done during their life. The passes are also smoother. I balance any wheel , Bashers and all of them.
Except my Crawlers of course. That would be silly, if even possible on Bead Lock wheels. No advantage with 3 MPH crawlers.

Balancing makes it super smooth plus gains me about 10-15mph at higher speeds. I believe that is one of the reasons I get 98MPH from a stock system. I don’t balance the crawler wheels either, though did get my TRx4 to 50MPH

The Infr. body is far from aero. Too much amp draw, and cutting because of this. And "AVC" is not all that. I rather use a standalone or other brand gyro RX/Tx.
But I installed a flat onto the roll bars on the bed. The bed looks like a "fast back" straight to the rear wing now. It hooks up much better now. Less air turbulance behind the Cab. Less drag. Need to also trim the rear Infr wing a good amount.
But bad roads are simply bad ones. Too dangerous IMHO. Carnage galore.

If losing that much speed due to just Bumps. Defintely don't run there. NG.
Took me a few years or so actually, to figure out what, which and where I speed run best. No bumps allowed. Not even one divit. Will ruin your day in a heartbeat. It only takes that one you never see, and its over. Totaled out my Lim twice over. Was cheaper to buy 2 more Lim rollers. I look for good roads now. Won't run otherwise.

Colorado roads aren’t well maintained

 

[dgitalchaos]

The Infr. body is far from aero. Too much amp draw, and cutting because of this. And "AVC" is not all that. I rather use a standalone or other brand gyro RX/Tx.
But I installed a flat onto the roll bars on the bed. The bed looks like a "fast back" straight to the rear wing now. It hooks up much better now. Less air turbulance behind the Cab. Less drag. Need to also trim the rear Infr wing a good amount.
But bad roads are simply bad ones. Too dangerous IMHO. Carnage galore.

If losing that much speed due to just Bumps. Defintely don't run there. NG.
Took me a few years or so actually, to figure out what, which and where I speed run best. No bumps allowed. Not even one divit. Will ruin your day in a heartbeat. It only takes that one you never see, and its over. Totaled out my Lim twice over. Was cheaper to buy 2 more Lim rollers. I look for good roads now. Won't run otherwise.

I don’t use AVC or gyros to run, I completely disabled the AVC so it can’t be used no matter the position of the AVC knob. I just did a run on the Typhon 30 minutes ago, since I just cleaned it from getting dirty on the track yesterday. Looks like a better road, video is uploading now. With 29/50, I get 93-95. I still feel it drives much smoother than the Infraction. Could be because I’m more comfortable with buggies though.

 

[Greengaunja]

Balancing makes it super smooth plus gains me about 10-15mph at higher speeds. I believe that is one of the reasons I get 98MPH from a stock system. I don’t balance the crawler wheels either, though did get my TRx4 to 50MPH

Colorado roads aren’t well maintained

Damn that's good. Best I've managed with my scx.iii with the mambax/4600kv was 59kmh(almost 37mph)

 

[dgitalchaos]

Damn that's good. Best I've managed with my scx.iii with the mambax/4600kv was 59kmh(almost 37mph)

That last run finally hit 50MPH, but the tires balloon like crazy and make it almost impossible to control at those speeds. I had several videos without crashes at 49MPH, but pushing the 1 extra mph was what I wanted, so it’s a crawler again with a Fusion SE 1800kv. I also left as much on the stock Bronco as possible (wheel wells, etc.).

 

[SrC]

I don’t use AVC or gyros to run, I completely disabled the AVC so it can’t be used no matter the position of the AVC knob. I just did a run on the Typhon 30 minutes ago, since I just cleaned it from getting dirty on the track yesterday. Looks like a better road, video is uploading now. With 29/50, I get 93-95. I still feel it drives much smoother than the Infraction. Could be because I’m more comfortable with buggies though.

Honestly, the only reason I like a gyro for speed passes, is at the end of the pass when braking hard, so it tracks straight at that far distance. Otherwise hard braking causes darting L or R. This is where most of my carnage can happen. Very little Gyro gain. Barely even 10% is all you need. I find the gyro is not really for me otherwise. I can drive straight at the start and during a pass most of the time.
If you are having trouble keeping it straight, then you have chassis alignment or Balance issues.
Being dependant on a Gyro/AVC, can just mask steering issues in many cases. Good to turn down the Gyro on occasison to verify a good alignment.

 

[dgitalchaos]

Honestly, the only reason I like a gyro for speed passes, is at the end of the pass when braking hard, so it tracks straight at that far distance. Otherwise hard braking causes darting L or R. This is where most of my carnage can happen. Very little Gyro gain. Barely even 10% is all you need. I find the gyro is not really for me otherwise. I can drive straight at the start and during a pass most of the time.
If you are having trouble keeping it straight, then you have chassis alignment or Balance issues.
Being dependant on a Gyro/AVC, can just mask steering issues in many cases. Good to turn down the Gyro on occasison to verify a good alignment.

That’s a good idea to use the gyro at the end. I don’t have problems with that, but can completely see where this is advantageous. I just have never used a gyro, but with my older RC, where the tires ballooned like crazy, that would have helped tremendously.