Yes. Cheap ass spektrum and other take off motors instead of buying from the source. You can no longer get old motors hobbywing was sellingYou know that you can buy motors that aren't sensored and still run them right?
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Yes. Cheap ass spektrum and other take off motors instead of buying from the source. You can no longer get old motors hobbywing was sellingYou know that you can buy motors that aren't sensored and still run them right?
They can take a lot of punishment because they can pull tons of amps. If you try to run those motors for bashing. Run times will be complete dogshitNot in the minority. TP seems capable of withstanding more abuse than almost every other motor on the market. Better components help. Honestly, I only ever owned one other motor I felt held up just as good in regards to heat and durability and that's my HW 4985 1650kv.
Hence why it's always said Castle for speed runs and HW for bashersThey can take a lot of punishment because they can pull tons of amps. If you try to run those motors for bashing. Run times will be complete dogshit
Now i question that. With those sensored motorsHence why it's always said Castle for speed runs and HW for bashers
My bad. You meant motor and not escHence why it's always said Castle for speed runs and HW for bashers
But you are right about the reduced runtimesMy bad. You meant motor and not esc
I almost want to say a TP can bash as well if not better than HWs motors. Bashing does generate heat with all the stop and go.
I'm just fine with my run times and at least 20 of 35 of my rigs have tp motors. Not all tp motors are amp hogs either. I hardly ever go below storage charge and I be ready to go inside. Infact, the 1650kv hobbywing doesn't do any better for run times.They can take a lot of punishment because they can pull tons of amps. If you try to run those motors for bashing. Run times will be complete dogshit
Im saying this based on the spec sheetsI'm just fine with my run times and at least 20 of 35 of my rigs have tp motors. Not all tp motors are amp hogs either. I hardly ever go below storage charge and I be ready to go inside.
which means you have no real world experienceIm saying this based on the spec sheets
Yes. Cheap ass spektrum and other take off motors instead of buying from the source. You can no longer get old motors hobbywing was selling
1/8 motors options non existant unless you want to use a 2600kv or a massive 4985. 2200kv has been discontinued.What? These are all sensorless motors that are still currently available directly from Hobbywing.
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...ducts/ezrun-max-motors?variant=18438418497651
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...ts/ezrun-3660sl-g2-motors?variant=26945779528
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...ts/ezrun-3652sl-g2-motors?variant=27755255057
https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/col...-12t-18t-motor-for-1-18-car?variant=214143546
Not sure everyone appreciates how many amps 250 is or even 400. That's a crazy amount of power and no way our "toys" can handle anything close to that.
200 amps already requires double aught cable
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
I wonder why spec sheets exist. Totally not there to help decide which motor to buy for a project. I guess i should spend hundres of dollars to find out if they are lying about their specs qnd actually are not that power hungrywhich means you have no real world experience
I have MMX8S/1717 combos in a Kraton and Fireteam and they both pull 370+ amps during every run.
You should plug a TP motor in and see how much amps it draws for science. After all we need real life experiences. Screw the spec sheets lolI have MMX8S/1717 combos in a Kraton and Fireteam and they both pull 370+ amps during every run.
TP unfortunately does not make a motor similar in size to the 1717/4985. Otherwise I would own one.You should plug a TP motor in and see how much amps it draws for science. After all we need real life experiences. Screw the spec sheets lol
At least we all agree on TP motorsI wonder why spec sheets exist. Totally not there to help decide which motor to buy for a project. I guess i should spend hundres of dollars to find out if they are lying about their specs qnd actually are not that power hungry
You should plug a TP motor in and see how much amps it draws for science. After all we need real life experiences. Screw the spec sheets lol
12s will pull less amps than 8s, all other things being equal. Actually easier on the ESC, but it does make more heat in the motor.And are you saying amps > volts? I was wondering if 12s would have the motor run cooler than 8s geared for the same speed.
10 gauge wire is smaller than 8 gauge. And 10 gauge is one of the most common sizes there is. 8, 7, and even 6 gauge are also very common in the RC community. Don’t know why/how your LHS doesn’t know this.And then my hobby shop has trouble getting me 8 gauge wire never mind 10.
That’s ridiculous, and I don’t know what the purpose of that chart is, but it must be for some very high voltage industrial applications or systems with many multiple component draws. At over 0.56” diameter 00cable is roughly the size of your thumb, man. Much larger than the battery leads on your 1:1 car.200 amps already requires double aught cable
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
That chart is for yacht wiring.12s will pull less amps than 8s, all other things being equal. Actually easier on the ESC, but it does make more heat in the motor.
10 gauge wire is smaller than 8 gauge. And 10 gauge is one of the most common sizes there is. 8, 7, and even 6 gauge are also very common in the RC community. Don’t know why/how your LHS doesn’t know this.
That’s ridiculous, and I don’t know what the purpose of that chart is, but it must be for some very high voltage industrial applications or systems with many multiple component draws. At over 0.56” diameter 00cable is roughly the size of your thumb, man. Much larger than the battery leads on your 1:1 car.
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