Fully built car - what breaks most often? (Talion EXB)

[21STalion]

that color scheme is awesome! now I want to paint a body as well. I like what you did in the roof

Thanks, yeah it's really fun to paint these things. I look forward to painting the next one, this one my son picked the colour, it's his favorite one right now. We're painting models this color for him and he wanted me to paint the RC the same. It not a polycarbonate paint, it's not even a spray paint, it's a brush paint and I mixed it up to spray through an airbrush.

You know I'm really not sure how long I have been running the steering link on the wrong side for, but it's been a while! Good eye...That might explain some binding I get during lots of droop and suspension travel.

Actually I remember now one of the times I was switching the arms I noticed I got less travel and adjusted the droop to compensate. I fixed it by twisting the tie-rod, but now I realize it's because its mounted on the wrong side.

The car should handle totally differently at full lock now

 

[JKWoods]

Something about the position changed and there is some binding,or at least less travel when mixing EXB cars and prior rear arms together


You are probably right, I may have attached the link to the wrong side in haste and not noticed, thanks

Always wanted to try the speed chassis!
Let me know it's exact weight when you get it

I'm going to wait on the M2C speed chassis. I'm hoping they come out with one for the V5 soon. The one they have now is for the V3 and V4. It can be altered to work on the V5 but like I said I'm hoping they make one soon for the V5. I did however order tons of titanium pieces from Scorched and will post the weight differences on them to the stock.

 

[21STalion]

I'm going to wait on the M2C speed chassis. I'm hoping they come out with one for the V5 soon. The one they have now is for the V3 and V4. It can be altered to work on the V5 but like I said I'm hoping they make one soon for the V5. I did however order tons of titanium pieces from Scorched and will post the weight differences on them to the stock.

I'm going to wait on the M2C speed chassis. I'm hoping they come out with one for the V5 soon. The one they have now is for the V3 and V4. It can be altered to work on the V5 but like I said I'm hoping they make one soon for the V5. I did however order tons of titanium pieces from Scorched and will post the weight differences on them to the stock.

Ah yes, I remember that now. That stopped me too at one time.

I never broke an hinge pin ever. Bent a few thats about it on my 6s. What breaks the most is ur number 1 in ur case. The outdrives needs upgradibg at least for the center and rear diffs also changibg the pins of the driveshafts to tool steel pins would be a +.

The wing mount is another common breakage if u run stock. Try boiling the arms before their first use. I had never one snap on me even after crashibg knuckle first on a tree.

I recently did a maintenance check on my kraton exb. 2 arms out of 4 had a micro crack starting to form Near the hinge pin hole. Remplaced them that was a full summer of sends and crashes to do that. I run nothing really fancy. My major upgrades are a rear alluminum gearbox, an m2c hackerman plate a 3D printed wing mount and front bumper spring.

Going overkill on upgrades i believe is what makes the trucks break more. Weight is everything the heavier the truck less durable it becomes.

My notorious. Same upgrades as my kraton exb minus chassis and shock towers. It survived winter bashing and one wheel landings 3.6kg. 6.61lbs

View attachment 205134

Twice as heavy

That notorious is crazy light
Well done

 

[21STalion]

Bleh, I just ordered everything I wanted
I didn't go crazy, but we'll see if we can get this thing down to 7lbs

I'm trying the rear cvds, ti links and balls, v3 mount or whatever that was. V3 carbon towers

I think I can cut 2oz of extra power cable!

 

[Angel]

Keep breaking the same things in the car, and not sure if there is anything else I can do.

My car is fully beefcake m2c built, then mostly HR racing parts and castle 1717 motor combo - Talion EXB RTR.

It's newly built in November and now has about 100 packs through it - mostly at the track.

I have now

1. Broken the m2c lower front hardened hinge pin three times (shear snapped to pieces) and cracked another.
2. cracked the upper front stock EXB a-arm at the exact same spot three times
3. I'm also wearing out the EXB diff drive cups, especially when the dogbone end of the cvd jumps out of the drive cup. I think I've solved this by removing all the spacers possible on the front end.

The broken a-arm and the hinge pin happens on the same side, so obviously it's the way I'm hitting things on that side of the car - I think I know what it is and I can try to not hit it as much lol

The other thing that fails me all the time is wheels, I constantly crack the rims on the far edge away from the face (inside of the wheel). I've broken maybe 6 rims? I never wear out the rubber first. I usually break a 140mm sized rim in a few packs (and I crash frequently). I'm just running them with the little cracks in them anyway now....

Not much else gets damaged...the oddball item.

I don't mind the EXB arm being broken, because it's not too hard to replace and you need a sacrificial piece, but I'm a little miffed I'm breaking m2c hardened pin, it's not an easy part to replace when the car is all buttoned up. The m2c A & B hinge pins block, and the HR bulkheads are solid, so are the m2c CVDs.

These are really the 2 or 3 weakpoints left.

Anywho, I wish the damage would stay contained to the EXB arms, or at least have a heavy duty RPM arm option for the EXB - please

Maybe a titanium m2c hinge pin? That fits an EXB front block so there is no nut on the back end? - please

I had the same problem with the lower hinge pins from M2C. They make other great parts but I stay away from their lower suspension since I shattered two of their 2 sets. I brought up the issue here a while back and guys said that they can’t be tightened too much or that I hadn’t installed them properly. M2C said to me that only two people complained to them about broken hinge pins in 2021, but I looked around an found A LOT of people had broken the same hinge pins.

I switched to raidenracing lower suspension front and back. They are less expensive and I haven’t broken them in six months. I’m not affiliated with this company, just so you know.

Also, you might want to consider if your truggy is a little too heavy. These parts can break very easily depending on how you land if they are overloaded.

Also consider that if you mostly run on the same terrain, same direction, mostly same landings, that the vehicle will get most of the punishment directed on a specific side.

 

[JKWoods]

I had the same problem with the lower hinge pins from M2C. They make other great parts but I stay away from their lower suspension since I shattered two of their 2 sets. I brought up the issue here a while back and guys said that they can’t be tightened too much or that I hadn’t installed them properly. M2C said to me that only two people complained to them about broken hinge pins in 2021, but I looked around an found A LOT of people had broken the same hinge pins.

I switched to raidenracing lower suspension front and back. They are less expensive and I haven’t broken them in six months. I’m not affiliated with this company, just so you know.

Also, you might want to consider if your truggy is a little too heavy. These parts can break very easily depending on how you land if they are overloaded.

Also consider that if you mostly run on the same terrain, same direction, mostly same landings, that the vehicle will get most of the punishment directed on a specific side.

I don't see that Raidenracing has hinge pins just the aluminum ends. So are you just running stock hinge pins? Or am I just missing something? Link?

 

[21STalion]

I had the same problem with the lower hinge pins from M2C. They make other great parts but I stay away from their lower suspension since I shattered two of their 2 sets. I brought up the issue here a while back and guys said that they can’t be tightened too much or that I hadn’t installed them properly. M2C said to me that only two people complained to them about broken hinge pins in 2021, but I looked around an found A LOT of people had broken the same hinge pins.

I switched to raidenracing lower suspension front and back. They are less expensive and I haven’t broken them in six months. I’m not affiliated with this company, just so you know.

Also, you might want to consider if your truggy is a little too heavy. These parts can break very easily depending on how you land if they are overloaded.

Also consider that if you mostly run on the same terrain, same direction, mostly same landings, that the vehicle will get most of the punishment directed on a specific side.

Yes, interesting. Will have to look into this. It's a shame because the m2c design was expensive (and spare custom pins continue to be) and they snap so easily.

I really liked the m2c design because even though it looks beefy, it's lighter.

Thanks for the insight @Angel

 

[21STalion]

Adding the pin weights the EXB becomes lighter again


Exb hinge pin

M2c basic design pin

m2c EXB design pin to fit EXB bumper (keep snapping these)

 

[JKWoods]

Has anyone tried the stock ends with the M2C tool steel pins?

 

[21STalion]

Has anyone tried the stock ends with the M2C tool steel pins?

I have all the parts here, so I can play with the configuration. Maybe someone was right where if you tighten the m2c pins too much it can cause it to break.

Here is my weight, same as before, but it's actually a couple ounces lighter but with the bumper back on it cancels it out

You can see how much smaller the wires are. Saved almost two ounces on that

And the tuning continues...

 

[21STalion]

Has anyone tried the stock ends with the M2C tool steel pins?

You could cut down the m2c pin. Still get the tool steel with the EXB blocks arrangement

 

[21STalion]

Got all the electronics wired up.
BEC 2.0
Mylaps
BLink


7lbs 8.9oz

Still on order:
-rear cvds
-ti balls
-ti links
-carbon rear tower
-lightweight motor mount
- composite chassis braces


That should do it, the one final upgrade will be the tekin combo which would save another 3.5oz but I'm not changing that out until I burn through this motor, but I figure that will bring it under 7lbs. Which will be under 10lbs with battery and wheels.

 

[Yonic]

Waiting to hear what you'll think of how it handles now compared to before

 

[21STalion]

Just BARELY under 11lbs on 6s.
That's exciting

 

[21STalion]

I couldn't resist I put the big block 1717 back in it. It's just such a beast like this.

 

[21STalion]

@Yonic

The front m2c block arrangement is heavier than the EXB

However, the REAR m2c block arrangement is both lighter and stronger than the stock EXB arrangement.

So now I'm running only m2c blocks in the rear, with EXB in the front. I'm going to cut down the m2c pins to make EXB pins out of the harder tool steel.

Rear EXB

Rear m2c

Front EXB

Front m2c

And I say that the front and rear aluminum bulkheads are worth it, they are only 2.4g heavier than the stock plastic ones and includes a larger bearing. Both front and back only +5gr is pretty sweet.

 

[Yonic]

Both are surprising! how does the full metal m2c suspension holders weight as a mostly composite one? interesting.
Also for the bulkhead, I guess the metal inserts weight offset the weight of the composite?

very nice

 

[21STalion]

Both are surprising! how does the full metal m2c suspension holders weight as a mostly composite one? interesting.
Also for the bulkhead, I guess the metal inserts weight offset the weight of the composite?

very nice

Took it to the track today. Did really well with it on a 2050kv w/15t.

Big difference going around the tight stuff.

Many ideas of what to improve on for next time

You are right the bumper is worth it...haha

 

[21STalion]

Has anyone tried the stock ends with the M2C tool steel pins?

I cut down the m2c pins and am using them in the front EXB block and they work beautifully

I would show a picture but you can't tell the difference.

They weigh almost exactly the same.

 

[jgbeasley1]

Wow I haven't really broken anything that wasn't my fault. My talion is stock except motor/esc. Only problem I had was dog bone popping out on one side even after removing spacers. Sadly that caused me to break a drive cup. I did the shock bump stop mod with nylon washers and never had it happen again. Ive been jumping my talion a lot lately too but I manage to land it most of the time.

My dog bone keeps popping out on the front end. What is the shock bump mod with nylon washers? I think this is what I need to do