Fully built car - what breaks most often? (Talion EXB)

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21STalion

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Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
Keep breaking the same things in the car, and not sure if there is anything else I can do.

My car is fully beefcake m2c built, then mostly HR racing parts and castle 1717 motor combo - Talion EXB RTR.

It's newly built in November and now has about 100 packs through it - mostly at the track.

I have now
  1. Broken the m2c lower front hardened hinge pin three times (shear snapped to pieces) and cracked another.
  2. cracked the upper front stock EXB a-arm at the exact same spot three times
  3. I'm also wearing out the EXB diff drive cups, especially when the dogbone end of the cvd jumps out of the drive cup. I think I've solved this by removing all the spacers possible on the front end.
The broken a-arm and the hinge pin happens on the same side, so obviously it's the way I'm hitting things on that side of the car - I think I know what it is and I can try to not hit it as much lol

The other thing that fails me all the time is wheels, I constantly crack the rims on the far edge away from the face (inside of the wheel). I've broken maybe 6 rims? I never wear out the rubber first. I usually break a 140mm sized rim in a few packs (and I crash frequently). I'm just running them with the little cracks in them anyway now....

Not much else gets damaged...the oddball item.

I don't mind the EXB arm being broken, because it's not too hard to replace and you need a sacrificial piece, but I'm a little miffed I'm breaking m2c hardened pin, it's not an easy part to replace when the car is all buttoned up. The m2c A & B hinge pins block, and the HR bulkheads are solid, so are the m2c CVDs.

These are really the 2 or 3 weakpoints left.

Anywho, I wish the damage would stay contained to the EXB arms, or at least have a heavy duty RPM arm option for the EXB - please

Maybe a titanium m2c hinge pin? That fits an EXB front block so there is no nut on the back end? - please
 
That doesn’t seem like a lot of damage after 100 packs. I’d say you‘re getting off lucky. …..if you said 10 packs then that’s a different story…
RPM makes arms for this rig don’t they…..same arms as the Kraton 6s.
cheers,
kev
 
How much your car weight? I'm in the camp of less weight for more durability... less stress on the parts like the hinge pins, rims and diffs.

This is it today with no battery, body or wheels.

9lbs 6oz

A little on the chubby side


IMG_20220306_230033.jpg
 
Wow I haven't really broken anything that wasn't my fault. My talion is stock except motor/esc. Only problem I had was dog bone popping out on one side even after removing spacers. Sadly that caused me to break a drive cup. I did the shock bump stop mod with nylon washers and never had it happen again. Ive been jumping my talion a lot lately too but I manage to land it most of the time.
 
Wow I haven't really broken anything that wasn't my fault. My talion is stock except motor/esc. Only problem I had was dog bone popping out on one side even after removing spacers. Sadly that caused me to break a drive cup. I did the shock bump stop mod with nylon washers and never had it happen again. Ive been jumping my talion a lot lately too but I manage to land it most of the time.

I think it's it's wall on under the ramp. I broke it there today, and I really should be avoiding it more. This thing gets bashed up pretty good out there. It's winter :)
 
Then think about that extra 2 pounds that putting force on every hit the car take.

As for me I also run it mostly on a track and I never bent a hinge pin (stock ones).
I removed most of the EXB stuff, it's heavy. all but the chassis, bumper and the steering components.
The old motor mount is much lighter, the old arms are stiffer and lighter, removed all braces as chassis flex is good for handling...

IMG_0272.jpg
 
Then think about that extra 2 pounds that putting force on every hit the car take.

As for me I also run it mostly on a track and I never bent a hinge pin (stock ones).
I removed most of the EXB stuff, it's heavy. all but the chassis, bumper and the steering components.
The old motor mount is much lighter, the old arms are stiffer and lighter, removed all braces as chassis flex is good for handling...

View attachment 204849
That's a pretty nice weight. I've never gotten it under 8lbs. I guess I don't have all the "non-exb" parts to try out. That car seems to show lighter than I would expect it to.
 
Then think about that extra 2 pounds that putting force on every hit the car take.

As for me I also run it mostly on a track and I never bent a hinge pin (stock ones).
I removed most of the EXB stuff, it's heavy. all but the chassis, bumper and the steering components.
The old motor mount is much lighter, the old arms are stiffer and lighter, removed all braces as chassis flex is good for handling...

View attachment 204849
Wait, are you running 6s or 4s?
 
I would say 80% 4s. when bashing I'm using 6s.

I can tell you exactly what I did, as I said before I used a lot of v3 parts, arms, motor mount, plastic braces, also removed the heatsink and fan as the car is light enough for the motor not to overheat on 16t:
- titanium links and pillow balls
- used CVD for the rear (it saves a little weight but also extend the life of the bearings)
- carbon fiber rear shock tower (the front is too small to make a difference)
 
Then think about that extra 2 pounds that putting force on every hit the car take.

As for me I also run it mostly on a track and I never bent a hinge pin (stock ones).
I removed most of the EXB stuff, it's heavy. all but the chassis, bumper and the steering components.
The old motor mount is much lighter, the old arms are stiffer and lighter, removed all braces as chassis flex is good for handling...

View attachment 204849
You got 8oz on me now lol


IMG_20220308_051646.jpg
 
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😂 My talion 11lbs without a battery but that is with a tp 4070. It was probably even higher with the src road crushers but I had just swaped to method Rc sct tires.
 
have no idea about the RPM arms never tried them, but I've heard they are flexible, so not sure they are best for handling.

BTW the v3 (or v4.. the same) require 2 parts that are different compared to the EXB ones:
- You'll need the wide 2.7 sway bar to use for the rear, as the EXB version uses the narrow version in the rear (which is normally used only for the fronts)
- You'll need the lower shock pins which are different for the non-EXB arms, both front and rear.

I'm using the v3 tower on the front (it's the same as the EXB apart from the material), and use a Xtreme Racing carbon fiber for the rear,
 
I also have had the upper front arm breaking on me and keep hoping that RPM will come out with arms that fit the V5.
 
have no idea about the RPM arms never tried them, but I've heard they are flexible, so not sure they are best for handling.

BTW the v3 (or v4.. the same) require 2 parts that are different compared to the EXB ones:
- You'll need the wide 2.7 sway bar to use for the rear, as the EXB version uses the narrow version in the rear (which is normally used only for the fronts)
- You'll need the lower shock pins which are different for the non-EXB arms, both front and rear.

I'm using the v3 tower on the front (it's the same as the EXB apart from the material), and use a Xtreme Racing carbon fiber for the rear,
And I imagine the v3 carbon rear tower will fix the shock length issue for the back as well?
I also have had the upper front arm breaking on me and keep hoping that RPM will come out with arms that fit the V5.
The fronts fit okay (rpm parts on exb). I used them when in a bind.

The sway bars can be tricky, and alignment might change a bit.

The upper front rpm arms weighs more than the EXB part

The rest of the arms are lighter
 
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