MOJAVE EXB DOGBONE

[melmif]

Got a brand new never used Mojave EXB. The previous owner had bought it without the original EXB diffs and all he did was chucking in two standard BLX diffs (310957). Rear Dog-bone of one particular side is popping out in the first 3 min of driving. I see that all the Mojave BLX / EXB and the Fireteam share same dog-bone (310953) So i am assuming that the only deciding factor for this mishap is related to the diff cups or droop (possibly???)
Attached is a photo showing, what in my opinion, is an acceptable droop.
Also attached is a second photo showing the proximity of the dog-bone to the diff cup end whilst car is resting on its wheels... which IMO is too close.

Questions:
** i see that some here had same issue and they are replacing the dogbones with CVDs as in the front - how good is this as i understand the difference in length is only 2mm.
** if i get the actual complete EXB diffs (310981) would i resolve this matter? Are the cups any deeper allowing dog-bones to rest better inwards towards the diff? All my friends owning the BLX version of the Mojave have 0 issues in this regards so we are a little lost tbh.

On a different note... if i decide to change all diffs to the original EXB versions (which i trust are the 29mm ones vs the present 31mm) would i gain anything? or buying Vitavon

HD Steel Ring & Pinion Spiral Cut Gear Set 43/10T would improve the drive train just enough (as i have done and already been convinced on my fireteam)?​

thanks guys.. your help much appreciated... and all the best for the coming new year!

 

[Tex Koder]

How's the droop screws looking -on those rear arms?

Give us a photo showing their full extension when the wheels are lifted off the ground.

 

[melmif]

Thanks for coming back TEX

attached is photos as requested.

Cheers.
mel..

 

[Tex Koder]

Thanks for coming back TEX

attached is photos as requested.

Cheers.
mel..

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Hmm..
You have a lot LESS droop than me!

I don't see what could be popping your dogbone.. other than maybe the slightly worn out drive cup.

I would get some rubber o-rings ($7 @ harbor freight) and put some in the other cups to help push the dogbones more towards the diff ,to get them 'further' into the cups.

That should definitely help.



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Here's my Mojave BLX for comparison:

 

[Garcbomber]

Just for clarity, droop is set with the shock end disengaged. You want the droop screw to set the arm at full extension of the shock. Otherwise any additional force down on the arm will cause overextension and potentially allow the dogbone to leave the output. Arrma included rubber/silicone in the stubs at one point as a bandaid to help with their assembly process and stack-up tolerances. I don’t recall the part number but someone knows, otherwise you can cut your own to keep the bone more centered. With the proper component assembly and suspension setup, shouldn’t be needed.

On the contrary, with over articulation of the rear suspension the dogbone can also escape because the shock rod is too long before bottoming out. More of a problem in the front with CVDs and pillow balls being too far from center.

 

[Sandracer_NL]

You can also set the rear links to the outer position of the rear carriers; pic . You’ll get negative camber though.
I‘ve tried both the o-ring in the rear carrier and a bit of gorilla/fiber tape and like the tape better as I’ve had the o-ring melt.
The new exb diff cups (Kraton exb v2 had them) are a bit longer, but since the previous owner removed the exb diffs, that means you’ll need need the exb diffs with the new exb diff cups.