Upgrade Mega/BLS plastic transmission to BLX metal

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Walter said:
Probably normal. In the video it sounds like your spur and pinion are what is making the noise. Take off the spur cover and do it again. Try holding the spur gear in place when you do it. Then open the diff and check it out... as with justatree above it will probably benefit from some oil.
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Wasn't normal. I had no steering or turning when just a bit of throttle was on. Car kept on going straight. Turning while reversing was normal.
 
The lhs saw the video and thought it might be a diff problem. The sound is the pinion and spur when the wheels move in the same direction when I turn one wheel quickly.

My slash and Savage mini do not so this, no matter how quickly I turn one wheel the other always goes in the opposite direction.

I did fill the granite diff with 50000 shock oil weight. Could that be the problem?
 
Ekfchan said:
The lhs saw the video and thought it might be a diff problem. The sound is the pinion and spur when the wheels move in the same direction when I turn one wheel quickly.

My slash and Savage mini do not so this, no matter how quickly I turn one wheel the other always goes in the opposite direction.

I did fill the granite diff with 50000 shock oil weight. Could that be the problem?
Click to expand...
Again, we don't believe it is a problem here because our cars did that when they came stock( or at least mine did too), I asked this when I first got my car too and it is fine now... runs perfect. I just need new diff oil my dad's Tamiya was opposite of this as well, but trust me, I think it is fine



Other than the steering issue you have it should be fine... not sure what that issue is
 
Well, it happened again. Exact same pro emblem, this time after five packs or so on a 3000 kv motor.

Ekfchan said:
I am almost sure it is a broken pin in this gear...

The transmission gears spin freely when turning the spur shaft by hand if half the case is off. Once some tension is added by putting on the top half of the case it is much harder to turn the shaft and the shaft will turn without the attached gear, since the gear is attached to the shaft by a pin if the cross pin was not broken they should not be able to move independently.
. But... I can't seem to get to the pin. How do I remove the gear?
Click to expand...

I couldn't remove the gear with a hammer screw driver etc, so hope the warranty sends the replacement parts.

If the pin is breaking so easily, are there any good replacement options? It is not the composite transmission gears stripping here, rather the pin breaking.

Was thinking piano wire....
 
Going to be rebuilding the transmission on my Granite. Motor spins, but the wheels don't. Thought it was the slipper, but that's fine. Been running LiPo and a stronger motor, so I'm sure that's the issue.

Thanks for the parts list.
 
When you open it up - I will bet that that the first gear that touches the spur (the gear on the slipper shaft, i think it is called the idler) will be hard to get off and likely the pin was sheared into a melted gear. I found out that there is an upgrade 20t metal idler gear that is on the parts list for 2014 granite - I have it ordered so am hoping I can just replace that part without all the other upgrades.
 
Ekfchan said:
When you open it up - I will bet that that the first gear that touches the spur (the gear on the slipper shaft, i think it is called the idler) will be hard to get off and likely the pin was sheared into a melted gear. I found out that there is an upgrade 20t metal idler gear that is on the parts list for 2014 granite - I have it ordered so am hoping I can just replace that part without all the other upgrades.
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Yes, I ordered all the parts from the original post. Now to do the work...
 
This THREAD requires SERIOUS clarification.

1. I have Mega Granite #102657 and purchased all the parts on this list. Is this unit pre 2014 or NOT?????

2. I spend the evening dismantling the rear end to find out I also need AR310378 and AR310399.

Why is that NO CLEAR METHOD to determine what was made before 2014 and what was not?? I bought this thing less than 30 days ago and have had to fix several items and now discover this product is 3 years OLD???

Let's not forget the BLS ESC that smoked in less than 10 days which also smoked the BLS motor (after purchasing and upgrade). Ended up spending money on a Castle Sidewinder 3 combo.

And I had to replace the spur and pinion last weekend because they were dull.

This is complete and total GARBAGE.

WoodiE said:
So you've started with one of the Arrma MEGA or BLS models and now wanting to upgrade to a brushless and LiPo setup for longer runtimes and a much faster vehicle!?

Upgrading Arrma Transmission from plastic to BLX metal



Before doing so it's highly recommended you upgrade your plastic transmission to a metal transmission setup found in the Arrma BLX models as a brushless and LiPo setup is certainly going to put a lot of stress on your gearbox. Here is a list of the parts you're going to need to upgrade your Arrma gearbox to metal:

If you have an older model (before 2014) you'll also need the following parts, otherwise the newer Arrma models already come stock with the below parts:
  • AR310378 - Differential Gear Maintenance Set
  • AR310399 - Gear Differential Outdrive
Click to expand...
 
cybrdude said:
Why is that NO CLEAR METHOD to determine what was made before 2014 and what was not?? I bought this thing less than 30 days ago and have had to fix several items and now discover this product is 3 years OLD???
Click to expand...

The BLS models were introduced back end of 2014 if I am not mistaken. So the model cannot be that old.
And there is only one version of the BLS Fury. On the Arrma website you can find this model and even download the user guide with correct part numbers.
 
Here is a part of the 2016 Fury Manual on the upgrade to BLX:

Mega to BLX.png
 
I've just finished modifying my 2014 Mega Mojave, the gear I'm running is;
Complete '14 BLX gearbox (as the '13 and earlier does not fit the later models)
Radient Reaktor ESC
Radient Reaktor RDNA0049 3000KV motor
3s gensacearespammers 4000Mah battery
Louise Hummer tyres
ProLine shocks front and rear
And some slightly longer dog bones to help with the issue of breaking the cups as they tend to run right on the end (I've had 2 snap in one race)
Has anyone had an issue woth the '14 BLX gearbox input shaft having free play? (Inwards and outwards) because of this it has jumped out enough that the slipper clutch gear moved and stripped. Thanks.
 
Rdub said:
I have all the parts listed in this thread and it seems I need the BLX motor guard. The one on the mega was molded in with the gearbox.

Is this what I should be ordering?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBKZE&P=Z

Thanks for the help!!!
Click to expand...
That one will work, but for a few dollars more you can get it with the wheelie bar set. I added this when doing my metal gear upgrade and it all fits well. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUMC&P=7
 
BFH said:
AR310016 would be the layshaft gear. They call it a 20 tooth idler for some reason.

2016-02-07%2020.02.54_zpsawwdkufe.png
Click to expand...

I'm lookin to put big metal 32p or mod 1 spur & pinion gears in my raider xl ,
do you know what kind of input shaft I could use in the gearbox ? I already installed the optional medal gears.
 
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