PLA Advancements... Hmmm... Interesting...

[kaladeth]

What vehicle is it on and what makes you think its possible its not a stock length? If its not the stock length then I wouldn't be able to test it honestly. Personally I have not heard of anyone making this part longer then stock and wouldn't know why they would.

I will however measure and modify yours to fit a stock setup i.e. Kraton 6s, Outcast 6s, Talion 6s, Mojave 6s, Senton 6s, and so on. That is if yours is not already stock length. I have some in a drawer I can measure and compare later when I get home. I'll let you know how it matches up later today. Thx.

It's on a Limitless to reduce caster and improve steerability. Short thread on it here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-reduce-caster-to-improve-steering.69031/

No need to redesign, there are stock parts out there:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/arrma-composite-suspension-mount-front-upper

 

[Tex Koder]

What vehicle is it on and what makes you think its possible its not a stock length? If its not the stock length then I wouldn't be able to test it honestly. Personally I have not heard of anyone making this part longer then stock and wouldn't know why they would.

I will however measure and modify yours to fit a stock setup i.e. Kraton 6s, Outcast 6s, Talion 6s, Mojave 6s, Senton 6s, and so on. That is if yours is not already stock length. I have some in a drawer I can measure and compare later when I get home. I'll let you know how it matches up later today. Thx.

He designed that part = Front-rear suspension mount in the extra length he did was to alter the caster for his Limitless V2.

Good idea for On-road dynamics.

 

[Surchaufeur]

on 3 different printers I cannot get anymore then 30 to 40mm/s with tpu. Best at 20 to 25 honestly... The way uncle jesse said use the same settings as normal PLA makes me think this stuff can do max speeds. We shall see.

When he said PLA settings i know he uses 150 to 350mm/s on all his newer printers. So im hoping thats what he meant.



Hahaha I guess i more meant for me It would replace TPU. I cannot stand printing that slow, its just annoying. If I can do 150mm/s with this stuff I'd be amazed and would not use TPU again. Again just for me haha.

I print at 30-35mm/s on TPU. My direct drive on the fokoos is the same you find on an ender 3. But directly on the tool head. Like i said i print at 225-230C, 60C bed. Prints are very good.

He designed that part = Front-rear suspension mount in the extra length he did was to alter the caster for his Limitless V2.

Good idea for On-road dynamics.

Hey thats great. Might give this a shot. The caster is so high on the onroad vehicles. I thought of cutting my A arms at one point. Hopefully my vet doesn't handle like

I would print anything that is a functional part in PETG or TPU For rc cars. PLA develops slop and under pressure deforms. Unlike tpu and petg who bounce back. I made a stick figure with PLA despite the creator saying to only use PETG. After a week my stick figure is just all floppy and falls apart easily

 

[Tex Koder]

Idk i just print with PLA settings on my duramic 3D TPU. Just needs a new firmware who is less loaded with features


The stock firmware has no baby steps, manual mesh leveling, filament change feature. The firmware i compiled works wonderful just now notice that making circles is not great. My guess is i turned on too much features and some that are useless to me right now like linear advance and cancel objects. Its an issue with VS code and platformIO. The files i have are the files/firmware my current printers are running. So that cannot be the issue. I remember erasing my laptop and when i made firmwares i did it with the old one from my mother before i bough mine.

My tuf gaming PC is fundamentally broken. Slicers like to crash windows and windows crash itself sometimes(black screen and the bugged program crashes)

That's a Pain in the Neck!!
I can understand your frustration.

One thing I would suggest is to double check and install all Windows Updates, Critical Patches, component Drivers
AND the most overlooked >> any PC Firmware updates and Chipset drivers..
These are what I found to be the root causes of random unexplained BSODs crashes.

I would highly advise you look into this -to fix your PC issue(s).

My ender 3 only thing i should update is the pause feature that seems to not work. When i pause the print the print head doesn't part and it stops where it was printing instead and after a while the motors turn off.

Hmm..
That's weird.
Annoying for sure.

While my fokoos doesn't it parks and waits. The fokoos firmware is a custom made firmware from someone known in the community who had a fokoos odin at some point tweaked it to my liking like increasing the mesh levelling number from 16 to 25. Because findig the source code of the stock firmware was a pain. You had to apparently make two bin files for the screen and the printer otherwise it wouldnt work

Gotcha.
Not sure if I can help you here.
Not on the Fokoos.

 

[Surchaufeur]

That's a Pain in the Neck!!
I can understand your frustration.

One thing I would suggest is to double check and install all Windows Updates, Critical Patches, component Drivers
AND the most overlooked >> any PC Firmware updates and Chipset drivers..
These are what I found to be the root causes of random unexplained BSODs crashes.

I would highly advise you look into this -to fix your PC issue(s).



Hmm..
That's weird.
Annoying for sure.



Gotcha.
Not sure if I can help you here.
Not on the Fokoos.

its not really fokoos related but a firmware compile issue.

i thought windows 11 was the issue downgraded to 10. didnt fix a thing. the laptop was a gift from christmas in 2022. my mother old asus laptop never crashed on me

here is the error

 

[nomis38]

It's on a Limitless to reduce caster and improve steerability. Short thread on it here:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-reduce-caster-to-improve-steering.69031/

No need to redesign, there are stock parts out there:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/arrma-composite-suspension-mount-front-upper

Ahhh ok I get you now, thank you sir for clearing that up, i was a bit lost hahaha... Maybe I will do this on mine if the part works out. I am curious though unless I had a bad crash, like really bad, I would not break a PLA+ if I made it. What gives with yours? Did you crash? If it breaks just driving then its got some unknown force on it for sure that mine does not.

He designed that part = Front-rear suspension mount in the extra length he did was to alter the caster for his Limitless V2.

Good idea for On-road dynamics.

I see now, cool idea, they do have way to much caster in the front for a road car. Obviously easier for arrma to just use the parts off other cars and leave it up to us to fix it.

I print at 30-35mm/s on TPU. My direct drive on the fokoos is the same you find on an ender 3. But directly on the tool head. Like i said i print at 225-230C, 60C bed. Prints are very good.

Yes exactly 30 to 35mm/s. Im looking to print at 200 to 300mm/s as thats my normal PLA settings. Also thats Uncle Jesse and Frankly Builts normal settings FAST FAST FAST

Hey thats great. Might give this a shot. The caster is so high on the onroad vehicles. I thought of cutting my A arms at one point. Hopefully my vet doesn't handle like

I would print anything that is a functional part in PETG or TPU For rc cars. PLA develops slop and under pressure deforms. Unlike tpu and petg who bounce back. I made a stick figure with PLA despite the creator saying to only use PETG. After a week my stick figure is just all floppy and falls apart easily

Totally disagree about your statement of PLA developing slop and deforming for no reason "I also have factual evidence documented of over 30 parts that this is simply not true lol". If it sits in the sun yes. But every single part i've ever made with PLA+ on my RC cars the holes are the exact same size and snug after years. And I skatepark them. A stick figure falling apart is def not a good representation lol.

Literal case in point: This has been here for months getting abused and the bolts are still so tightly in the holes you have to pry them out a bit. Please also read earlier where I jumped 20ft high with a 25lbs truck and landed directly on a skid plate, nose down on it, and it had 0 issues. Also the screw holes lol, that are in that same plate, have the same tolerances as the day I printed it. It's over a year old skid plate and also sees a skatepark from time to time.

its not really fokoos related but a firmware compile issue.

i thought windows 11 was the issue downgraded to 10. didnt fix a thing. the laptop was a gift from christmas in 2022. my mother old asus laptop never crashed on me

here is the error

All of your questions about Fokoos and firmwares and editing code would be best asked on an actual 3d printing forum man. People here don't have a need to go that deep into firmwares and coding, our stuff just works, no need to muck with it luckily.

 

[nomis38]

@nomis38 - Awesome! Here is the link. It is not stock length, so none of the aluminum parts available in the market will work I think.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6532459

So an option i have done in the past as well, melt a piece of wire into this. Or make a divot like below and epoxy in a carbon fiber rod or metal rod. I use the melt a wire in technique personally but I'd melt it in right where I made this divot below.

 

[Tex Koder]

...I am curious though unless I had a bad crash, like really bad, I would not break a PLA+ if I made it. What gives with yours? Did you crash? If it breaks just driving then its got some unknown force on it for sure that mine does not.
...

Totally disagree about your statement of PLA developing slop and deforming for no reason "I also have factual evidence documented of over 30 parts that this is simply not true lol". If it sits in the sun yes. But every single part i've ever made with PLA+ on my RC cars the holes are the exact same size and snug after years. And I skatepark them. A stick figure falling apart is def not a good representation lol.

Literal case in point: This has been here for months getting abused and the bolts are still so tightly in the holes you have to pry them out a bit. Please also read earlier where I jumped 20ft high with a 25lbs truck and landed directly on a skid plate, nose down on it, and it had 0 issues. Also the screw holes lol, that are in that same plate, have the same tolerances as the day I printed it. It's over a year old skid plate and also sees a skatepark from time to time.

@nomis38
Sir, you must of some VERY Soft concrete skateparks...

I have printed >> in PLA+
Made some body posts and bumper springs for my 3S Granite no less
that have yielded/simply gave out from just bashing in a Texas field
or kids playground ,made out of tall grass and packed dirt..

Yep, I had some tumble wombles from taking turns too fast or somersaulting from going off tiny mole hills..
I've experienced everything from hairline fractures to layer separation to total crack throughs in my parts...


So I'm not sure how yours are able to take THAT kind of abuse that you described and Not fail in some way.

Are you sprinkling some magic powder into your prints??

View attachment 354605


All of your questions about Fokoos and firmwares and editing code would be best asked on an actual 3d printing forum man. People here don't have a need to go that deep into firmwares and coding, our stuff just works, no need to muck with it luckily.

no, I think it's fine for him to ask these questions here on this forum..
Otherwise we would Never know such things/issues were occuring.
And, Never know that one of our other AF members might even have or know the steps to solve it.

 

[nomis38]

@nomis38
Sir, you must of some VERY Soft concrete skateparks...

I have printed >> in PLA+
Made some body posts and bumper springs for my 3S Granite no less
that have yielded/simply gave out from just bashing in a Texas field
or kids playground ,made out of tall grass and packed dirt..

Yep, I had some tumble wombles from taking turns too fast or somersaulting from going off tiny mole hills..
I've experienced everything from hairline fractures to layer separation to total crack throughs in my parts...


So I'm not sure how yours are able to take THAT kind of abuse that you described and Not fail in some way.

Are you sprinkling some magic powder into your prints??

Haha all the parts that I speak of are stupidly thick, such as the skids im talking about. Body post and bumper springs i can see not holding up. This is the x-maxx skid that took the hit.

No magic powder haha, Also the skids underneath take im sure wayyyy more abuse as I hit my ramp at 40 to 50mph every single time.

no, I think it's fine for him to ask these questions here on this forum..
Otherwise we would Never know such things/issues were occuring.
And, Never know that one of our other AF members might even have or know the steps to solve it.

I gotcha, I just figure this is not where I would go at all for the technical data he is looking for.









Technical data.... HAHA!!!! Here is some below... Kinda technical pssshhhh ok maybe not so technical. Brute force data!! lets call it that.

X-maxx:

Mojave:

Video: "I do not have the impact to concrete the x-maxx experienced but then again 90% of hits are off camera lol" You can literally see two nasty nose dives in the second vid @39 seconds on the 12s xmaxx. This is done literally every weekend till the end of time . I only miss a weekend if weather sucks, so its rare.

Edit: In reviewing footage in the first video the middle jump is right on that skid in question as well Massive hit!!

0 breakage on the parts shown.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Ahhh ok I get you now, thank you sir for clearing that up, i was a bit lost hahaha... Maybe I will do this on mine if the part works out. I am curious though unless I had a bad crash, like really bad, I would not break a PLA+ if I made it. What gives with yours? Did you crash? If it breaks just driving then its got some unknown force on it for sure that mine does not.



I see now, cool idea, they do have way to much caster in the front for a road car. Obviously easier for arrma to just use the parts off other cars and leave it up to us to fix it.


Yes exactly 30 to 35mm/s. Im looking to print at 200 to 300mm/s as thats my normal PLA settings. Also thats Uncle Jesse and Frankly Builts normal settings FAST FAST FAST


Totally disagree about your statement of PLA developing slop and deforming for no reason "I also have factual evidence documented of over 30 parts that this is simply not true lol". If it sits in the sun yes. But every single part i've ever made with PLA+ on my RC cars the holes are the exact same size and snug after years. And I skatepark them. A stick figure falling apart is def not a good representation lol.

Literal case in point: This has been here for months getting abused and the bolts are still so tightly in the holes you have to pry them out a bit. Please also read earlier where I jumped 20ft high with a 25lbs truck and landed directly on a skid plate, nose down on it, and it had 0 issues. Also the screw holes lol, that are in that same plate, have the same tolerances as the day I printed it. It's over a year old skid plate and also sees a skatepark from time to time.

View attachment 354605


All of your questions about Fokoos and firmwares and editing code would be best asked on an actual 3d printing forum man. People here don't have a need to go that deep into firmwares and coding, our stuff just works, no need to muck with it luckily.

Pla has downsides. Part deformation under load or pressure, doesn't like hot temperatures does that translate into pla flexible? I don't think flexible PLA will be a replacement to TPU. you cant print flexible materials fast. Petg is straight up limited to 30-40ms print speed or you going to get a mess. But part can stand up to 100C before deforming and TPU up to 110C

All my PLA is PLA+.

 

[nomis38]

Pla has downsides. Part deformation under load or pressure, doesn't like hot temperatures does that translate into pla flexible? I don't think flexible PLA will be a replacement to TPU. you cant print flexible materials fast. Petg is straight up limited to 30-40ms print speed or you going to get a mess. But part can stand up to 100C before deforming and TPU up to 110C

Again hoping it replaces TPU for me. Not for you or others. I personally hate TPU and want a faster printing solution. Agreed PLA absolutely has downsides. I only back it on the examples given. Trust me ive broken lotsss of PLA. It's why I only reference the parts I have listed. If it was on A-Arms or body posts, or bumper mounts it wont last at all.

Thanks dude. Good info as this basically means I prolly wont be able to print the flexible PLA fast, so it wont get used as much. I only like materials atm that i can do high speeds with.

If a single PLA RC part I make cannot be skateparked it will never get put on my Thingiverse. Aside from obvious things like my Ram Air system as thats not made for bashing but is on my thingiverse. But if it made it there it's been 100% tested and wont break for many many bash sessions.

https://www.thingiverse.com/kuskye25/designs

 

[Tex Koder]

Pla has downsides. Part deformation under load or pressure, doesn't like hot temperatures does that translate into pla flexible? I don't think flexible PLA will be a replacement to TPU. you cant print flexible materials fast.

Petg is straight up limited to 30-40ms print speed or you going to get a mess. But part can stand up to 100C before deforming and TPU up to 110C

All my PLA is PLA+.

That is Not accurate..

I am printing PETG consistently at 150mm/s (to 160mm/s max) on my Ender3 S1



And, I'm able to hit 250mm/s with PETG on my N4Max. (my newest printer)
I'm still running tests and trying to see how far I can push it -printing Small detailed parts.
ie: using NASA Fabrics as the test subject.

I've heard you can push up to 500mm/s on BIG parts that take up nearly the whole print bed.

But that's Not confirmed on my end.

 

[nomis38]

@Tex Koder - I think I've seen you say a few times before that printing TPU or soft stuff on blue painters tape is best correct? Do you put anything on the tape? I get tired of cleaning it off my bed haha.

That is Not accurate..

I am printing PETG consistently at 150mm/s (to 160mm/s max) on my Ender3 S1



And, I'm able to hit 250mm/s with PETG on my N4Max. (my newest printer)
I'm still running tests and trying to see how far I can push it -printing Small detailed parts.
ie: using NASA Fabrics as the test subject.

I've heard you can push up to 500mm/s on BIG parts that take up nearly the whole print bed.

But that's Not confirmed on my end.

Oh thank god, I just ordered my first roll of PETG and was like NOOOOOO!!!!!!

 

[Tex Koder]

@Tex Koder - I think I've seen you say a few times before that printing TPU or soft stuff on blue painters tape is best correct? Do you put anything on the tape? I get tired of cleaning it off my bed haha.

No sir.
Straight up bare tape only.
Nothing else added.

You may need to adjust your Z Offset a tad...
But I don't bother.
I just let it squish a bit more, I don't care.

Oh thank god, I just ordered my first roll of PETG and was like NOOOOOO!!!!!!

You should be good to go with PETG.

I pushed my luck at 300mm/s and got stuffs knocked off the print bed at the size/scale of parts I was printing...

So, I dialed it back down to 250mm/s

But, I may tweak a little more and try again at the 300 speed.
Later..


****************

I've also solved those Annoying Endstops (metal-on-metal) "thumps" /crashing sounds
that had bothered me so much..

 

[nomis38]

No sir.
Straight up bare tape only.
Nothing else added.

You may need to adjust your Z Offset a tad...
But I don't bother.
I just let it squish a bit more, I don't care.

haha ok awesome!!

You should be good to go with PETG.

I pushed my luck at 300mm/s and got stuffs knocked off the print bed at the size/scale of parts I was printing...

So, I dialed it back down to 250mm/s

But, I may tweak a little more and try again at the 300 speed.

Good to hear, what what i understood it can be printed fast, I've not done it before though so I got none of my own data. I trust ur data as much as my own sir. Thx.

Later..


****************

I've also solved those Annoying Endstops (metal-on-metal) "thumps" /crashing sounds
that had bothered me so much..

Sweet!! Please post this in one of our N4M thread man, I'd like to do the same.

 

[Surchaufeur]

@Tex Koder i found a post online about deleting completely from A to Z platform io. Meaning after uninstaling from vs code i had to go to my wibdows folder and find platformio folder and delete all of it. I did that and reinstalled platformio and noe it compiles everything sucessfully. I can now print circles again!. Turned off linear advance, cancel objects and Fwd retract. And mesh probe reduced to 16 from 25

 

[Tex Koder]

@Tex Koder i found a post online about deleting completely from A to Z platform io. Meaning after uninstaling from vs code i had to go to my wibdows folder and find platformio folder and delete all of it. I did that and reinstalled platformio and noe it compiles everything sucessfully. I can now print circles again!. Turned off linear advance, cancel objects and Fwd retract. And mesh probe reduced to 16 from 25

View attachment 354667

Super!

So you just deleted out that portion of the configuration _adv header?

 

[Surchaufeur]

Super!

So you just deleted out that portion of the configuration _adv header?

No you just turn it off. The marlin firmware is already prebuild depending on the version and for what 3d printer ur making it for and the marlin version. You just turn things on and off with some code.

 

[kaladeth]

Ahhh ok I get you now, thank you sir for clearing that up, i was a bit lost hahaha... Maybe I will do this on mine if the part works out. I am curious though unless I had a bad crash, like really bad, I would not break a PLA+ if I made it. What gives with yours? Did you crash? If it breaks just driving then its got some unknown force on it for sure that mine does not.

I see now, cool idea, they do have way to much caster in the front for a road car. Obviously easier for arrma to just use the parts off other cars and leave it up to us to fix it.

That’s a fair question, but hard to answer haha. It was only one round of practice and one round of qualifying. I don’t remember any major crash but there were a few bumps and side brushes for sure. The piece only fell off when I was inspecting the Ackerman back home.

Some close ups of the break, sheared off.

My main car that did two qualifying rounds and the main has the same part, and it’s still intact as far as I know. I should probably check.

Thanks for the wire/divot/rod idea! Will try that if I continue to see breakage.

Btw is my print orientation okay? I printed it the way I show on the photos above. I set wall thickness to 3mm and infill to 100%.

 

[Tex Koder]

That’s a fair question, but hard to answer haha. It was only one round of practice and one round of qualifying. I don’t remember any major crash but there were a few bumps and side brushes for sure. The piece only fell off when I was inspecting the Ackerman back home.

Some close ups of the break, sheared off.

View attachment 354799

View attachment 354800

My main car that did two qualifying rounds and the main has the same part, and it’s still intact as far as I know. I should probably check.

Thanks for the wire/divot/rod idea! Will try that if I continue to see breakage.

Btw is my print orientation okay? I printed it the way I show on the photos above. I set wall thickness to 3mm and infill to 100%.

I would strongly suggest you set it at >>

Walls = 8 (or 10)

infill = 20%
Line multiplier = 3

Also, if you want to experiment -try adding a chamfer (1 or 2mm) on One edge & print with that chamfered edge facing the bed plate.

You'll need to have Brim activated to hold it down solid while printing.