PLA Advancements... Hmmm... Interesting...

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nomis38

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Arrma RC's
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Some of you may have seen these some of you not. Im definitely ordering some Overture Super PLA+ and some of the Ataraxia Flexible PLA. They both are supposed to print with the same settings and easiness as normal PLA. Honestly pretty impressive.

Why not try them!!







I have ordered these two and will do testing... If I can print flexible PLA at 200 to 300mm/s then TPU(n) will never be ran through my machines again. We shall see. Also I will be doing a big durability test on the super pla to see the breaking point of the same object printed from, PLA, PLA+, and Super PLA+.

Screenshot 2024-03-13 215935.png
 
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I have a roll of Ataraxia.
It's the real deal in printability. 👍

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>>> Just a Serious heads up --
Use painter's tape on your print surface!
it will Bond to your print bed otherwise... And a nightmare to get off.

Ask me how I know..
 
I have a roll of Ataraxia.
It's the real deal in printability. 👍

>>> Just a Serious heads up --
Use painter's tape on your print surface!
it will Bond to your print bed otherwise... And a nightmare to get off.

Ask me how I know..
Sweet you already have some. Does it let you print fast? Good to know about the bed adhesion so it seems its like TPU in that aspect. If this is all true then I will never use TPU again. Also i really hated that TPU is so slow to print. The other nice thing is it's the same price or slightly cheaper then TPU.
 
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Sweet you already have some. Does it let you print fast?

I haven't pushed it ,in speed.

In fact I can't recall exactly what speed I had it set...
Mainly wanted it to print.. (and didn't want it to have a chance to clog my extruder..)
So I was conservative I'm sure.

basic PLA+ settings.

~50-60mm/s range, i think.

Definitely Not anywhere near 100mm/s

Good to know about the bed adhesion so it seems its like TPU in that aspect.

Yep.
There was some sort of Warning ⚠️ about that..
That I should have heeded before hand ,but didn't.
Haha..

If this is all true then I will never use TPU again. Also i really hated that TPU is so slow to print. The other nice thing is it's the same price or slightly cheaper then TPU.

Woah there..
Hold on a second buddy.
I haven't tested it whole heartedly for long term durability..

It has its purpose and will meet certain flexibility testing/light usage.
But I wouldn't say it's anywhere near TPU's toughness though (for long term dependability)..


You'll see for yourself and understand what I mean...
 
My old fokoos odin is champ with TPU with pla settings. But struggling making circles. I think the board is overloaded with my custom firmware. I have the files but it gives me an error of “package.json” cant be found.

It does it on all my firmwares(ender 3 and fokoos) @Tex Koder any ideas? I didnt build or update my firmwares since i made them a year ago. I almost completely forgot everything i have done. Found nothing helpful on the internet other than Chinese language
 
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My old fokoos odin is champ with TPU with pla settings. But struggling making circles. I think the board is overloaded with my custom firmware. I have the files but it gives me an error of “package.json” cant be found.

It does it on all my firmwares(ender 3 and fokoos) @Tex Koder any ideas? I didnt build or update my firmwares since i made them a year ago. I almost completely forgot everything i have done. Found nothing helpful on the internet other than Chinese language
on 3 different printers I cannot get anymore then 30 to 40mm/s with tpu. Best at 20 to 25 honestly... The way uncle jesse said use the same settings as normal PLA makes me think this stuff can do max speeds. We shall see.

When he said PLA settings i know he uses 150 to 350mm/s on all his newer printers. So im hoping thats what he meant.

Woah there..
Hold on a second buddy.
I haven't tested it whole heartedly for long term durability..

It has its purpose and will meet certain flexibility testing/light usage.
But I wouldn't say it's anywhere near TPU's toughness though (for long term dependability)..


You'll see for yourself and understand what I mean...

Hahaha I guess i more meant for me It would replace TPU. I cannot stand printing that slow, its just annoying. If I can do 150mm/s with this stuff I'd be amazed and would not use TPU again. Again just for me haha.
 
My old fokoos odin is champ with TPU with pla settings. But struggling making circles. I think the board is overloaded with my custom firmware. I have the files but it gives me an error of “package.json” cant be found.

?? Really?

It does it on all my firmwares(ender 3 and fokoos) @Tex Koder any ideas? I didnt build or update my firmwares since i made them a year ago. I almost completely forgot everything i have done. Found nothing helpful on the internet other than Chinese language

Not familiar with Fokoos.
Never heard of them til you just mentioned them...

On your Ender 3, I'd say restore/reset stock settings on your printer itself.
If you have Custom firmware that you Must save or want...

Otherwise, flash its firmware to latest version and try from there.

That's what I would do.
 
Wish there was some kind of really hard TPU that could be used for bumpers. Lots of infill does the job to a certain degree but just not good enough for thin longer stiff parts.
I mean this might just be the stuff man "flexible PLA" but, I don't think anything will work if its thin.

Also I use PLA+ for Skid plates cant imagine super pla+ lololol, just make em thick, I hit ramps directly with them at 50 MPH in my 6s Mojave and 12s X-Maxx and they do just fine. It's basically like hitting a wall with them. When I hit my ramp at 50 mph it nose dives and the skid impacts the ramp with insane force and scraps the whole way as it get propelled into the air up to 20ft high. It sometimes rips screws out of my ramp with the skid :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

In my experience super thick 100% infill PLA+ is almost indestructible. Again cant wait to test super pla+ :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

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One time I hit a skateboard ramp at 40mph in the 12s 25lbs x-maxx, went prolly 20 to 25ft high. Came down right on the nose "on the concrete" onto this piece below!!! Nothing man, it took it np!!


Not the proline bumper, the thing I custom made for the hood/nose of the indestructible body...

PXL_20231229_211701095.jpg
 
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?? Really?



Not familiar with Fokoos.
Never heard of them til you just mentioned them...

On your Ender 3, I'd say restore/reset stock settings on your printer itself.
If you have Custom firmware that you Must save or want...

Otherwise, flash its firmware to latest version and try from there.

That's what I would do.
Well to update the firmaware i have to modify it on VSCode and compile it. It doesn't let me compile anything and gives me a package.json error. it dorsnt let me compile firmware for any of my printers.

on 3 different printers I cannot get anymore then 30 to 40mm/s with tpu. Best at 20 to 25 honestly... The way uncle jesse said use the same settings as normal PLA makes me think this stuff can do max speeds. We shall see.

When he said PLA settings i know he uses 150 to 350mm/s on all his newer printers. So im hoping thats what he meant.



Hahaha I guess i more meant for me It would replace TPU. I cannot stand printing that slow, its just annoying. If I can do 150mm/s with this stuff I'd be amazed and would not use TPU again. Again just for me haha.
My fokoos odin is direct drive. Forget printing tpu on bowden
 
What about just using the manufacturer's firmware?
Than trying to compile your own...
 
Well to update the firmaware i have to modify it on VSCode and compile it. It doesn't let me compile anything and gives me a package.json error. it dorsnt let me compile firmware for any of my printers.


My fokoos odin is direct drive. Forget printing tpu on bowden
All my printers are direct drive.
 
Subbed to this looking forward to test results. My suspension mount broke (printed in PLA+). Should I have used TPU ?

View attachment 354586
That particular piece is super cheap in aluminum and easy to find. All mine use the Aluminum version. I did have super success with the rear chassis brace though... Currently its unbreakable and it'll smash the bulkhead before anything else. We shall see now that the bulk is aluminum.




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That would be too soft..

Would probably do better with PETG-CF..
Yeah i think a harder material would be fine. I would totally try it in super pla+ and report the results once i get mine in.

@kaladeth - Can you send me the link to that parts stl file. Or put it on your thingiverse and send me a link to that. I'll try it once I get my Super PLA+
 
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@nomis38 - Awesome! Here is the link. It is not stock length, so none of the aluminum parts available in the market will work I think.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6532459
What vehicle is it on and what makes you think its possible its not a stock length? If its not the stock length then I wouldn't be able to test it honestly. Personally I have not heard of anyone making this part longer then stock and wouldn't know why they would.

I will however measure and modify yours to fit a stock setup i.e. Kraton 6s, Outcast 6s, Talion 6s, Mojave 6s, Senton 6s, and so on. That is if yours is not already stock length. I have some in a drawer I can measure and compare later when I get home. I'll let you know how it matches up later today. Thx.
 
All my printers are direct drive.
Idk i just print with PLA settings on my duramic 3D TPU. Just needs a new firmware who is less loaded with features

What about just using the manufacturer's firmware?
Than trying to compile your own...
The stock firmware has no baby steps, manual mesh leveling, filament change feature. The firmware i compiled works wonderful just now notice that making circles is not great. My guess is i turned on too much features and some that are useless to me right now like linear advance and cancel objects. Its an issue with VS code and platformIO. The files i have are the files/firmware my current printers are running. So that cannot be the issue. I remember erasing my laptop and when i made firmwares i did it with the old one from my mother before i bough mine. My tuf gaming PC is fundamentally broken. Slicers like to crash windows and windows crash itself sometimes(black screen and the bugged program crashes)

My ender 3 only thing i should update is the pause feature that seems to not work. When i pause the print the print head doesn't part and it stops where it was printing instead and after a while the motors turn off. While my fokoos doesn't it parks and waits. The fokoos firmware is a custom made firmware from someone known in the community who had a fokoos odin at some point tweaked it to my liking like increasing the mesh levelling number from 16 to 25. Because findig the source code of the stock firmware was a pain. You had to apparently make two bin files for the screen and the printer otherwise it wouldnt work
 
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