Maxx 6s? Or leave it alone?

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Video Maxx 6s 20t/50t VXL6

20t pinion seems to keep cogging down (see video above). I really like the torque and acceleration. The BLX185 was super disappointing--slow and anemic. I guess I can live with the VXL6 and tiny bit of cogging if I can keep my fancy light kit 😂
 
Video Maxx 6s 20t/50t VXL6

20t pinion seems to keep cogging down (see video above). I really like the torque and acceleration. The BLX185 was super disappointing--slow and anemic. I guess I can live with the VXL6 and tiny bit of cogging if I can keep my fancy light kit 😂
I hear it. What does it sound like on 4s?
Nice lookin truck BTW 👍
 
I'll have to run it on 4s tomorrow and see, that's a good question. I played around with the scriptasylum speed calculator, and even if I gear down to 16/54, my (theoretical) top speed is more than I'd ever be able to hit with pizza cutters and wheelies!

EDIT: I'm wondering if I could have had wires reversed on the BLX185? It was insanely weak and slow 🤔
 
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Machine gun cogging on 4s

At the slightest bit of throttle on 4s it hesitates and stutters like a Tommy gun
Idk why it's still cogging.. doesn't make sense to me. Only things different from stock is the 6s esc and lower gearing right?
Idk if the motor wires being crossed would have affected the performance like that with the BLX.
I've connected them and had the motor spin opposite direction. I just swapped 2 of the 3 to reverse direction of the motor.
I guess you could drop the vxl-4 back in to rule out a motor issue?
 
Idk why it's still cogging.. doesn't make sense to me. Only things different from stock is the 6s esc and lower gearing right?
Idk if the motor wires being crossed would have affected the performance like that with the BLX.
I've connected them and had the motor spin opposite direction. I just swapped 2 of the 3 to reverse direction of the motor.
I guess you could drop the vxl-4 back in to rule out a motor issue?
Yeah, the only upgrades are all Traxxas parts (HD servo, widemaxx, steel CVDs, VXL-6).

With the 26/46, the cogging was at 0-10% throttle, on 24/50 it was about 0-5%, now on 20/50 it's like 0-2% throttle. It seems to be getting better. I might go all in and go 16/54! Although, it might have so much torque it'll shred the diffs and do standing triple backflips
 
I was just looking at comments for TP parts rc xtreme vid of maxx on 6s. He's running a max6, but I can't imagine that's actually needed? Either the vxl6 or blx185 should be adequate I would think. We know the maxx motor isn't actually rated for 6s, so maybe the cogging is inevitable, IDK. He is a member here,perhaps you can hit him up and pick his brain?
 
I'm think about just throwing a vxl-6 into my Maxx to make it 6s. Probably will run mostly 4s (parks, grass, snow), but there's a big grassy hill where I could use a little more throttle once in awhile. It'll be around $175 esc + batteries. Some say 6s is too much and useless, some love it apparently.

Anyone have experience with 6s Maxx? What do y'all think?
I bought mine back in May of 2021. I never ran it with stock electronics/tires, kind of wish I had so I knew how it did. I threw in a MMX/1515 2200kv system in it and ran it on 4S for like a month with backflip lp's, then started running 6S in it. I also put widemaxx arms and steel cvd's on it.

I recently got the stuff to convert it to a 2.0 length (chassis, center skid, center shaft, roll bar, new probodyrc body) to make it a little less twitchy. Not sure if it helped as I haven't run it where I typically run yet. While it was sitting and I was waiting for better weather, my wife got me a 4985 for my kraton... so I had a 4092/1650kv sitting there just staring at me... I threw it in. Just running it off the MMX6s now. I've run 3 packs through it locally and it seemed to do fine. Will hopefully get it to the grass bmx track I typically run at soon. I do have a cap pack in it that I made, just a smaller 3x1800uf pack that fit ok on the chassis to help with ripple.

When on 6S, do not try to self right it. It will kill the rear diff pinion in short order. I'm on my 3rd or 4th. The last one I put in was a GPM hardened one. I tried installing just that pinion a while back with a brand new diff, but the mesh was too tight. When I fried my last pinion, I left the diff in it and tried the GPM one again. Seems the wear on the the ring gear was just enough to allow it to mesh ok. I also have the vitivon ring/pinion in the drawer for when mine dies again.

2022-0311-maxx-v2-4092-1650kv.jpg

2022-0308-maxxV2-front.jpg


I ran 20/54 gearing with the MMX/1515/2200kv. I did have 21/54, but the motor ran hotter with that.

I'm running 24/46 now with the 4092/1650kv, which according to the scriptasylum speed check puts it a bit taller gearing than 20/54 with the 2200kv motor I had in it.
 
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I bought mine back in May of 2021. I never ran it with stock electronics/tires, kind of wish I had so I knew how it did. I threw in a MMX/1515 2200kv system in it and ran it on 4S for like a month with backflip lp's, then started running 6S in it. I also put widemaxx arms and steel cvd's on it.

I recently got the stuff to convert it to a 2.0 length (chassis, center skid, center shaft, roll bar, new probodyrc body) to make it a little less twitchy. Not sure if it helped as I haven't run it where I typically run yet. While it was sitting and I was waiting for better weather, my wife got me a 4985 for my kraton... so I had a 4092/1650kv sitting there just staring at me... I threw it in. Just running it off the MMX6s now. I've run 3 packs through it locally and it seemed to do fine. Will hopefully get it to the grass bmx track I typically run at soon. I do have a cap pack in it that I made, just a smaller 3x1800uf pack that fit ok on the chassis to help with ripple.

When on 6S, do not try to self right it. It will kill the rear diff pinion in short order. I'm on my 3rd or 4th. The last one I put in was a GPM hardened one. I tried installing just that pinion a while back with a brand new diff, but the mesh was too tight. When I fried my last pinion, I left the diff in it and tried the GPM one again. Seems the wear on the the ring gear was just enough to allow it to mesh ok. I also have the vitivon ring/pinion in the drawer for when mine dies again.

2022-0311-maxx-v2-4092-1650kv.jpg

2022-0308-maxxV2-front.jpg
I'm thinking you might need an FAA license for that thing!? ☝️🤘
 
I bought mine back in May of 2021. I never ran it with stock electronics/tires, kind of wish I had so I knew how it did. I threw in a MMX/1515 2200kv system in it and ran it on 4S for like a month with backflip lp's, then started running 6S in it. I also put widemaxx arms and steel cvd's on it.

I recently got the stuff to convert it to a 2.0 length (chassis, center skid, center shaft, roll bar, new probodyrc body) to make it a little less twitchy. Not sure if it helped as I haven't run it where I typically run yet. While it was sitting and I was waiting for better weather, my wife got me a 4985 for my kraton... so I had a 4092/1650kv sitting there just staring at me... I threw it in. Just running it off the MMX6s now. I've run 3 packs through it locally and it seemed to do fine. Will hopefully get it to the grass bmx track I typically run at soon. I do have a cap pack in it that I made, just a smaller 3x1800uf pack that fit ok on the chassis to help with ripple.

When on 6S, do not try to self right it. It will kill the rear diff pinion in short order. I'm on my 3rd or 4th. The last one I put in was a GPM hardened one. I tried installing just that pinion a while back with a brand new diff, but the mesh was too tight. When I fried my last pinion, I left the diff in it and tried the GPM one again. Seems the wear on the the ring gear was just enough to allow it to mesh ok. I also have the vitivon ring/pinion in the drawer for when mine dies again.

2022-0311-maxx-v2-4092-1650kv.jpg

2022-0308-maxxV2-front.jpg


I ran 20/54 gearing with the MMX/1515/2200kv. I did have 21/54, but the motor ran hotter with that.

I'm running 24/46 now with the 4092/1650kv, which according to the scriptasylum speed check puts it a bit taller gearing than 20/54 with the 2200kv motor I had in it.
Thanks for the detailed reply man! I'm glad you told me about the self-righting; I'm so lazy I've been using it a lot 😬. I love it on 4s, and for me, the 6s only adds like 5% more fun. I just can't leave stuff alone though. If it can be upgraded, it will be upgraded--necessary or not (I know no one else here can relate 😂). Especially in the winter, the only way to engage in the hobby is to buy crap (or snow bash and spend an hour cleaning).

I was going to upgrade my K6 EXB to the Max6 combo, but I drove it today and thought, "you know what? It's fast enough. I don't need to upgrade." I must be unwell 😜
 
Thanks for the detailed reply man! I'm glad you told me about the self-righting; I'm so lazy I've been using it a lot 😬. I love it on 4s, and for me, the 6s only adds like 5% more fun. I just can't leave stuff alone though. If it can be upgraded, it will be upgraded--necessary or not (I know no one else here can relate 😂). Especially in the winter, the only way to engage in the hobby is to buy crap (or snow bash and spend an hour cleaning).

I was going to upgrade my K6 EXB to the Max6 combo, but I drove it today and thought, "you know what? It's fast enough. I don't need to upgrade." I must be unwell 😜
I wouldn't have gone 6S, but some of the jumps I like to hit needed the extra oomph. I could clear them with 4S at the start of a pack, but once the pack wasn't topped off, I'd have to hit them just right and if the grass was a hair longer or if the wind was a bit stronger, I'd come up short. With 6S... I have about 30% throttle left to spare for flips or air corrections even just before LVC. With 4S, I'd be pinned and hope. If I geared higher, it would overheat.

No clue really how fast it is. Guessing more than the stock system. Still wish I had tried the stock system before selling it off just so I had it for comparison in my head at least.

Either way, I'm hoping the MMX can handle the gearing I have with the 4092. Just wish it would dry up enough to go give it a try. Also chomping at the bit to try my kraton with the 4985 in it to see how it does. Stupid winter...
 
I'd say 🤣🤣 Waiting for the thaw here too🙄🤔
4092 in a maxx!! Wow! That's alot of giddy up!!
I don't even use self right with stock power. I know it works, but😬
Yeah, the 4092 is new to it, so will see how that does. Hoping it doesn't smoke the MMX6s. Really don't want to have to throw another $160+ at it for a max6... but you do what you gotta do.
 
I just ordered a Max6 for my Xmaxx 😁😁😁 hope it's worth the $173 💵😭😳

Sometimes I wonder if upgrades are like car additives; you are primed to expect an increase in performance, and so you do see one whether it is real or not. Like when people get an oil change and say their car runs better, even though that's not how it works.

As a quantitative scientist, it disturbs me that there is not a lot of hard data on how much performance you are buying when you drop $200 on an ESC or $300 for a motor and ESC combo. It seems like it's mostly subjective and anecdotal evidence like, "totally rips now," "way faster than stock," and the like. I'm sure most people are actually getting a performance increase--I'm not doubting that. It would just be nice to have some actual numbers like 0 to 60 speed before and after, max miles per hour before and after.

That being said, I have a very strong, compulsive urge to upgrade. And whether there is any real performance increase or not, I know I will have a nice warm feeling in my tummy. Sometimes thinking your performance increased is just as good as it actually increasing.
 
I find that when it comes to ESC's of different brands and level of quality that one can split hairs on Performance. It is really the QC and level of Mfr'ing, and the Features and its F/W, that separate the men from the boys. And you will pay more for the better stuff. An advertised Amp capacity of an ESC is how you compare one from the other as well as its Max Lipo limit.
So technically a cheap 6s lipo ESC will provide the same "FULL power" as an expensive one, if the Running Amp Rating and Burst Amp Ratings are the same. Because 6s volts = 6s volts at full power. 4s volts = 4s volts etc.
How efficient the performance is at Full power separates cheap ESC's from the expensive ones.
This can get more technical, but this is the short of it regarding ESC's.
My spin.
 
As a quantitative scientist, it disturbs me that there is not a lot of hard data on how much performance you are buying when you drop $200 on an ESC or $300 for a motor and ESC combo. It seems like it's mostly subjective and anecdotal evidence like, "totally rips now," "way faster than stock," and the like. I'm sure most people are actually getting a performance increase--I'm not doubting that. It would just be nice to have some actual numbers like 0 to 60 speed before and after, max miles per hour before and after.
I think there are just too many variables for a manufacturer to publish such specifics, at least a reputable one anyway.
 
I actually did a decent job soldering 6.5 mm connectors onto the BLX 185. I swapped it into the max just to realize that my fancy Traxxas light kit is designed to plug into the Traxxas ESC 😭😭😭

Tell me there is a way I can still run my light
kit! It was $100, and it's just so cool
Black wires are ground, red and green wires are positive. Either make a plug and connect them to the receiver or connect it to a 2s battery to power them. I figuresd this out when I was planning on changing the ESC in my X Maxx. Unfortunately (and fortunately) I shorted the ESC out when trying to figure which pins sends the signal for brake and reverse lights.
 
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