Notorious Garc’s Backyard Track and RC Shenanigans

[Garcbomber]

Christmas came early, the 4S Fortress is really a nice tire.

 

[Dan B.]

So is what it’s resting on!

 

[Garcbomber]

So is what it’s resting on!

TBD, might pull an Earl and wire it backwards

 

[Dan B.]

TBD, might pull an Earl and wire it backwards

“yup, right there‘s your problem, she’s 180° off…”

 

[Garcbomber]

Setup tomorrow

 

[Garcbomber]

Goal today was to hit a smooth double to the drop off transition. After a couple ramp angle corrections

 

[Garcbomber]

Front composite brace cracked in the cold weather and chassis was already bent back previously last summer so time for a fresh layer and some more RCAWD alloy.

 

[KnowAir]

Front composite brace cracked in the cold weather and chassis was already bent back previously last summer so time for a fresh layer and some more RCAWD alloy.

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Hell yeah, throw some more alloy at it!! Is that an exb or rtr chassis? I've heard reports of the t2t brace causing the chassis to bend?
I removed the t2t on my swb Mojo. I only run it on track though, no big air. Been a few months now without the brace. So far so good. My theory is I actually want a bit of chassis flex for handling. I can't say it's made a notable difference.

 

[Garcbomber]

Hell yeah, throw some more alloy at it!! Is that an exb or rtr chassis? I've heard reports of the t2t brace causing the chassis to bend?
I removed the t2t on my swb Mojo. I only run it on track though, no big air. Been a few months now without the brace. So far so good. My theory is I actually want a bit of chassis flex for handling. I can't say it's made a notable difference.

I bought 3 v5 XLWB chassis’ when Jenny’s had them for $7 each a year ago. The last 2 were used for builds so this is the final one from that order.

If you imagine a long rectangle of structure created by the chassis up to the tower/bulkhead to bulkhead through the top center brace, why would you delete the cap?

Because you have 2-45 degree angle supports?

What happens if I’m jumping 30 ft and land the center of the chassis on a boulder? It’s going to inverted taco the chassis without tying the bulkheads together.

Just my engineering view, but if you run the front or rear into an immovable object at a high enough rate of speed to deflect the chassis ends the chassis brace will surely force the chassis to transfer. Depending on impact position of course….

 

[305HemiGuy]

Front composite brace cracked in the cold weather and chassis was already bent back previously last summer so time for a fresh layer and some more RCAWD alloy.

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How do you like those RCAWD products? I was looking at purchasing one of their diffs for my Mojo, but I've heard more negative than positive things about RCAWD.

 

[Garcbomber]

How do you like those RCAWD products? I was looking at purchasing one of their diffs for my Mojo, but I've heard more negative than positive things about RCAWD.

Their aluminum is better than composite when any clamping threads will be under tension/compression from bashing impacts. It's not 7075 however which is why you get what you pay for, it's on the same level as GPM/Hot Racing.

Had to drill and tap holes in all front braces to open up, it's gummy and not easily machinable as good 6061/7075.

Their new EXB open diffs are elite however, 2.5mm pins and quality carbon steel is worth the price of admission. Just be careful with the aluminum case and threadlock since they don't come oiled, make sure it has been heated/softened so thread don't pull/strip. I run them in all 4 of my 6S off-road bashers, front and rear.

 

[KnowAir]

I bought 3 v5 XLWB chassis’ when Jenny’s had them for $7 each a year ago. The last 2 were used for builds so this is the final one from that order.

If you imagine a long rectangle of structure created by the chassis up to the tower/bulkhead to bulkhead through the top center brace, why would you delete the cap?

Because you have 2-45 degree angle supports?

What happens if I’m jumping 30 ft and land the center of the chassis on a boulder? It’s going to inverted taco the chassis without tying the bulkheads together.

Just my engineering view, but if you run the front or rear into an immovable object at a high enough rate of speed to deflect the chassis ends the chassis brace will surely force the chassis to transfer. Depending on impact position of course….

I'd say a 30 ft jump onto a boulder is game over regardless of bracing, at least with an Arrma (or any OE) chassis. I'm not jumping 30 ft. I was after better handling and easier maintenance myself. Jury is still out on that.

 

[Garcbomber]

I'd say a 30 ft jump onto a boulder is game over regardless of bracing, at least with an Arrma (or any OE) chassis. I'm not jumping 30 ft. I was after better handling and easier maintenance myself. Jury is still out on that.

I don't run a center brace on my tyjave, essentially your configuration but do have alloy angle support braces.

My notorious is heavier and bigger jumper, alloy bulkheads with T2T and composite braces. They've never broken or loosened up, the v5 SWB chassis is stout... Nosers and rear enders into 3DRC absorbers help minimize impact forces however.

 

[KnowAir]

I agree that a box is stronger with 4 sides than 3 though.

I don't run a center brace on my tyjave, essentially your configuration but do have alloy angle support braces.

My notorious is heavier and bigger jumper, alloy bulkheads with T2T and composite braces. They've never broken or loosened up, the v5 SWB chassis is stout... Nosers and rear enders into 3DRC absorbers help minimize impact forces however.

Yeah, gotta take my experiences/views with a grain o' salt, I'm pretty light duty in regards to bashing. Mainly track running, at least till the snow flies. Then I'm snowbank jumping, which hopefully means I'm landing in snow. Occasionally I miss the approach angle and land on the blacktop driveway!!

Their aluminum is better than composite when any clamping threads will be under tension/compression from bashing impacts. It's not 7075 however which is why you get what you pay for, it's on the same level as GPM/Hot Racing.

Had to drill and tap holes in all front braces to open up, it's gummy and not easily machinable as good 6061/7075.

Their new EXB open diffs are elite however, 2.5mm pins and quality carbon steel is worth the price of admission. Just be careful with the aluminum case and threadlock since they don't come oiled, make sure it has been heated/softened so thread don't pull/strip. I run them in all 4 of my 6S off-road bashers, front and rear.

I ended up taking the lazy route after my EXB diff took a dump. First I deleted the LSD plates, shimmed and ran for a while..started having binding issues internally. Upon disassembly, I found my ring gear had 3 chipped teeth. Arrma wants $40 for just a ring and pinion, plus I have internal issues, worn outdrives.. so, JRC for the win. BLX diff complete for $45. Diff, cups, bearings, housing..Done. I know, not the best but, soo easy!!

 

[Garcbomber]

Finally replaced the PowerHD 23kg servo that can only run on 6V for an AGFRC A73CHLW and was having brown outs on DumboRC x6fg. Swapped in an sr315 to use full Tx telemetry and went away after test rip this morning. Probably too much working current through the budget receiver, plus actually having a safeguard if the remote loses connection while WFO.

What are the odds of getting a perfect diameter twig through the vent hole staying along for the ride

 

[KnowAir]

Finally replaced the PowerHD 23kg servo that can only run on 6V for an AGFRC A73CHLW and was having brown outs on DumboRC x6fg. Swapped in an sr315 to use full Tx telemetry and went away after test rip this morning. Probably too much working current through the budget receiver, plus actually having a safeguard if the remote loses connection while WFO.

What are the odds of getting a perfect diameter twig through the vent hole staying along for the ride

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Were you running higher volts with the AGF servo? Interesting, what is the Dumbo receiver rated to? I have been feeding 7.4v to my Flysky GR3E receiver which is only rated for 6v, no issues, guess it must be amp draw is acceptable. I can say feeding 7.4v to TRX receiver is a no go..seemed fine at first, then the truck started applying throttle without input. After switching BEC back to 6v, the problem went away.
I just picked up a v1 K8S rtr, have electronics from a v2 exb rtr on standbye to drop into it. The v1 stuff will hopefully end up in my Xmaxx if I can make the servo fit.. planning on running 8.4v which the only receiver I have that will handle that is the Spektrum..not paying their prices for a receiver though!! Maybe I'll get an HW super BEC. They're relatively cheap. Have you ever used these?

 

[Garcbomber]

I had this exact same Firma 160/4092 system in my big custom Mojave with an AGFRC 45KG servo on 8.4V and never ran into this issue. So by process of elimination I removed the only variable of the Rx/Tx, wasn’t sure if the servo was going bad or it was a brownout. Time will tell, I no longer need the additional 40mm ESC fan so that will also lighten the load a bit.

Never needed anything more than the internal ESC BEC, seems more common with crawlers and lots of aux draw.

 

[KnowAir]

I had this exact same Firma 160/4092 system in my big custom Mojave with an AGFRC 45KG servo on 8.4V and never ran into this issue. So by process of elimination I removed the only variable of the Rx/Tx, wasn’t sure if the servo was going bad or it was a brownout. Time will tell, I no longer need the additional 40mm ESC fan so that will also lighten the load a bit.

Never needed anything more than the internal ESC BEC, seems more common with crawlers and lots of aux draw.

Yeah the external BEC is handy for getting more volts and amps from rtr setups. Many fail to realize how many amps they're drawing when adding all the hi-flow fans. I take the minimalist approach.. more cuz I'm cheap but, also cuz there's only so much volume that can flow through an esc shroud. I see the 28mm tall fans strapped to an esc shroud and laugh!! As if that much air will ever get through..

 

[SrC]

Well answering your question directly. No RC is the best for snow. The cold makes plastic brittle and the snow goes into places you don't want to have it. But if you are not afraid of braking something or to have to dry it after the run its a blast to be in the snow. As others also already stated cars with a big clearance are the best. Most important thing is, where I live there they put salt on the street so the snow melts down. Never drive there. Salt is very bad for the cars.

With you 100%. Been there.
Too many ESC's bricked. BB's all rusted out within days. Motors trashed. I would have to spend hours cleaning them up and all dry taking all apart to do it right.... all to have fun in the snow. And it really is fun. I get it.
Yeah salted roads becomes the nail in the coffin. Been there.
I run my Slow Brushed Crawlers in the wet, mud snow and through streams in the winter months. During Blizzards hiking through my area. Crazy fun etc. The ESC's and motors are so cheap enough to replace . And SS BB's are a must. I treat my expensive BLX gear in my Bashers better now. Dry running only. My wallet thanks me.

Oh it’s been between them on dry days!

Yeah 600volts Elect. Service on the upper pole lines will ruin a wet dream quick. , and the neighborhood power will be downed.

These aluminum RCAWD diffs come with just enough fluid to prevent corrosion

Component material has better bead blasting and pin fit/finish than Arrma, we’ll see on quality…

Update-their aluminum alloy is too soft after a few packs through, egged out and caused extreme slop on the outdrive. Noticed fluid everywhere, junk 🗑 .

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I feel the Tombstones in that RCAWD and composite stockers diff cups are the issue. I feel much of RCAWD parts are not all that. Cost more than GPM crap with the same poor QC IMHO much of the time. RCAWD is more of a Crawler parts Niche Brand. I think they are better with Crawler Parts if anything. Been there. The Arrma metal diffs delete the Tombstones. Tombstones which also contributes to Sat and Sun gear slop.
Have you tried running the Mugen E0206 Washers/ shims?? ( Made of hardened Spring steel) The stocker Tin metal ones suck big time. Soft like butter.
I find the Mugen's are the Fix for the RTR Open standard diffs. I can easily double my diff mileage with them. It's all I use, for some years now.
New out the box, I toss all the stocker Diff gear shims.

 

[Garcbomber]

I feel the Tombstones in that RCAWD and composite stockers diff cups are the issue. I feel much of RCAWD parts are not all that. Cost more than GPM crap with the same poor QC IMHO much of the time. RCAWD is more of a Crawler parts Niche Brand. I think they are better with Crawler Parts if anything. Been there. The Arrma metal diffs delete the Tombstones. Tombstones which also contributes to Sat and Sun gear slop.
Have you tried running the Mugen E0206 Washers/ shims?? ( Made of hardened Spring steel) The stocker Tin metal ones suck big time. Soft like butter.
I find the Mugen's are the Fix for the RTR Open standard diffs. I can easily double my diff mileage with them. It's all I use, for some years now.
New out the box, I toss all the stocker Diff gear shims.

RCAWD's new diff setup removes the tombstones and replicates Arrma's alloy design, uses 2.5mm outdrive/pins and is 29mm wide contact ring/pinion. Highly recommend and yes I still use mugen shims between the satellites and case...