Chassis Materials: Arrma's false advertising

[@9G]

That’s why I don’t bash! I have a great time driving fast but doing everything I can to keep it on the ground. Just me!

I second that...I try to put as much speed into my builds as I can (or my knowledge base allows) and hit the terrain I find and go as fast as possible...and actually test my driving skill ON THE GROUND. Cant' do the air stuff. Not into breaking things on purpose. I'm a city boy and here in Philly SPEED IS KING. Its easy breaking stuff after a mild crash or tumble. I can't even fathom sending a car 20, 30, 40 or more feet into the air and expecting things not to bend or break...that's insanity!!! Do these people realize that 20 feet is close to 2 stories or floors in an average apartment complex? If I wanted air I would have bought a drone or a plane!!! LOL

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

I second that...I try to put as much speed into my builds as I can (or my knowledge base allows) and hit the terrain I find and go as fast as possible...and actually test my driving skill ON THE GROUND. Cant' do the air stuff. Not into breaking things on purpose. I'm a city boy and here in Philly SPEED IS KING. Its easy breaking stuff after a mild crash or tumble. I can't even fathom sending a car 20, 30, 40 or more feet into the air and expecting things not to bend or break...that's insanity!!! Do these people realize that 20 feet is close to 2 stories or floors in an average apartment complex? If I wanted air I would have bought a drone or a plane!!! LOL

Same kind of, that's why I got a Basher from @HZRDOS this thing he builds is insane, great for beginners trying to fly lol

 

[Yonic]

I'm Disappointed that the TLRT chassis has not been released yet by Arrma. Neither is its pricing published yet. Or any of the TLRT specific parts.
Looks to be the better chassis. Clearly a CNC'ed chassis. The EXB appears to be stamped. Whatever it is claimed to be made of. IDK.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA320646

Pricing is shown, as 109$
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/aluminum-chassis-cnc-7075-t6-swb---tlr/ARA320646.html

 

[SrC]

+1
For pre-order.
@Yonic TYVVM.
HH hasn't updated Arrma-rc .com yet.
At HH
SWB TLRT is $110
SWB EXB is $115.

AT Jenny'sRC
SWB TLRT is $66.
SWB EXB is $47.

The only visual difference I can see is that the TLRT chassis is a different color and it is Milled out. Must be obviously lighter to some extent. Maybe even more rigid because of the Milled areas? IDK
I would gamble and say the TLRT may be the stronger chassis for my Notorious.
Being SWB, maybe no distinction with strength can be made between the 2?

 

[SrC]

I still have my stock Outcast chassis from 2017, I don't even think it's bent I know the droop screws had almost pushed through the ears though.

+1
I have the first release Notorious (came without the T2T at that time like the Typhon's currently do) I did add the Stocker T2T when the 2nd revision (V4 type) Noto was released.
SWB Chassis never bent. It is all scratched and gouged out. My son wants the TLRT chassis for it now. He likes my TLRT Typhon chassis so much.
Yeah the OE Grub screws supplied as "Droop" screws's just ruins the chassis ears no doubt.
I use Domed Droop screws in all my rigs out the box now.
By contrast, I replaced the LWB V4 Kraton chassis several times. But since I installed a spare Steering Top plate bolted at the rear of the chassis exactly where my other OE chassis' folded, now it never folds/bends. Over 3 years of Hard Use now. This simple fix worked for me. I drive better perhaps??? IDK.
Call it luck? I always promised myself if I do bend this LWB chassis at this point, I would get the M2C and not look back.

Bent my Kraton V5 chassis recently and had to take the truck apart to straighten it. It bends very easily in a vice, much more easily than 1/8" 6061-T6 plate, so this is obviously not 6061-T6 as advertised. Behaves more like 6061-0.

Reports around here suggest that the EXB chassis on 6s and 8s cars bends easily and characteristically like untempered aluminum while being somewhat stronger than the V5 chassis, so some have speculated that it is 7075-0 and it's certainly not 7075-T6 as advertised.

Is anyone here in a position to seriously question Arrma about why their products are showing up with parts made from weaker grades of material than what they're claiming? Especially with the recent price hikes I think we ought to know the reason we're not getting what we think we're paying for.

I also doubt very highly that it is T6.
It is probably 6061- in reality. (just +1mm extra thick )
Aside from Marketing, who is to say otherwise?
The proof is in the pudding.

 

[slick2500]

+1
I have the first release Notorious (came without the T2T at that time like the Typhon's currently do) I did add the Stocker T2T when the 2nd revision (V4 type) Noto was released.
SWB Chassis never bent. It is all scratched and gouged out. My son wants the TLRT chassis for it now. He likes my TLRT Typhon chassis so much.
Yeah the OE Grub screws supplied as "Droop" screws's just ruins the chassis ears no doubt.
I use Domed Droop screws in all my rigs out the box now.
By contrast, I replaced the LWB V4 Kraton chassis several times. But since I installed a spare Steering Top plate bolted at the rear of the chassis exactly where my other OE chassis' folded, now it never folds/bends. Over 3 years of Hard Use now. This simple fix worked for me. I drive better perhaps??? IDK.
Call it luck? I always promised myself if I do bend this LWB chassis at this point, I would get the M2C and not look back.

I also doubt very highly that it is T6.
It is probably 6061- in reality. (just +1mm extra thick )
Aside from Marketing, who is to say otherwise?
The proof is in the pudding.

I lied it is a little bent or at least that ear is anyway.

 

[SrC]

+1
I find that some new OE chassis are not truly straight and plum out the box anyway. But fine enough for bashing, until they actually fold.
I always check them with a SS ruler. They are slightly tweaked at times. Even several new Lim chassis. I find many of these are stamped poorly at the front Lower "B" block. I can see that Front Droop can be way off from L-R many times because of this. More critical for me, being On Road for speed running.
They can be bent straight close enough. Sometimes not worth the effort if you have to disassemble the whole chassis. Just replace it if it is a pretzel at that point.

 

[Angel]

To expound further on the metallurgy at question, something to keep in mind is that both Arma chassis are 3mm Aluminum. one is a better quality alloy, and not stamped. It's not that big of a jump, so you can only expect so much out of the better version. I'll post a link, it might be hard to read but its all there.

Link: https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/metals-metal-products/6061-aluminum-vs-7075-aluminum/

Here's a portion that speaks to the topic at hand

The yield strength is the measure of the maximum amount of stress that will not permanently (or just “elastically”) deform a specimen of alloy (to learn more on this topic, feel free to read about it in our article all about 7075 aluminum alloy). When comparing 6061 and 7075 aluminum’s yield strengths, it is evident that 7075 aluminum is far superior by a factor of almost 2. This is a consequence of 7075’s chemical composition, as well as the result of heat treating. However, 6061 alloy is not to be thought of as weak, as a yield strength of 276 MPa is only slightly less than some low carbon steels.

The modulus of elasticity is a measure of a material’s resistance to permanent (or “plastic”) deformation. It is useful as a means of defining the “stiffness” of a material. There is a small difference when comparing the moduli of these alloys, which suggests that these materials behave similarly when elastically deformed.

Just want to point out... if we want to Sherlock this out, there are facts and ways to go about it. If we just bitchin' and wishn' then there's deff a way for that haha happy Monday Everyone! lol

All good info.

But lets say if there was better chassis support, ex., double chassis arms but maybe thinner, maybe built in bridging on the chassis, it would make it all better.

Now people would say too much weight. Well with all the after market upgrades, we add plenty of weight.

My kraton, as you can see from some pics a posted somewhere around here, I have everything up graded to m2c and other aluminum parts—and have been running it on stock esc and motor since I got it with no problems. The only thing I upgrade was the servo.

I feel that the plastic mud guards around the chassis should be aluminum with gussets. I can envision it but don’t have the skills or means to apply it.

That being said, I think the best chassis out there are m2c and I’ve heard scorched parts is good.

I lied it is a little bent or at least that ear is anyway.


View attachment 203557

But that’s nothing. Still looks good and is functional, right?