Kraton ADU Racing Parts!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Let's keep this thread dedicated to ADU Racing pron and not your rusted out $shitboxes šŸ˜‰
Fair enough as well, and I was also wondering what ā€œpronā€ was. I just tried to log into PronHub and it told me the website didnā€™t exist.
 
Fair enough as well, and I was also wondering what ā€œpronā€ was. I just tried to log into PronHub and it told me the website didnā€™t exist.
I believe you have to search for ā€œRacing Pronā€ šŸ˜‚
 
Fair enough as well, and I was also wondering what ā€œpronā€ was. I just tried to log into PronHub and it told me the website didnā€™t exist.

You got me. I was just about to register the site only to be disappointed and already in use.
 
Must have some first timers on a bulletin board in here!

1713982442962.png
 
Must have some first timers on a bulletin board in here!

View attachment 362877
and I didn't expect to learn anything today! LOLšŸ˜‰šŸ˜‚šŸ»
I must say, I was disgusted to learn how much a replacement windshield for an 18 year old $hitbox costs!! That could have been a Asuga roller!! Must watch where driving!!šŸ™ƒšŸ¤Ŗ
 
You got me. I was just about to register the site only to be disappointed and already in use.
Ummmmm, yeahā€¦. I was just kidding around but I see now that indeed yields search results!
 
Itā€™s really difficult for me to imagine someone never hearing about frame rot. Itā€™s very, very common here in New England. It simply comes down to the age of the vehicle and how many winters itā€™s seen. Frame rot took out two of my favorite trucks ever. A 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with a 340 in it and a stake bed, and my 1993 Ford F-100 with that absolutely fantastic 4.9 liter straight six. Both trucks were very well maintained, underbody washed fairly frequently in the winter months (I used to shoot for once a week at least) and were tip top mechanically and running beautifully when rust finally took them out. On the Dodge it was both primary frame rails right behind the cab in the middle of the truck. On the Ford it was both front primary frame rails and the outriggers.
I pulled the engine and trans from the Dodge and sold it, and called a guy to come and get the truck for scrap, which was $200.00 at the time. He came with an old school style tow truck, hooked her up (front wheels off the ground) and off he went. He drove back into my yard about ten minutes later and asked to use my phone so he could call his manager and have him send a flat-bed because my truck broke in half about a mile from my house.
And doesnā€™t he remember Toyota buying back several years of SR pickups, tens of thousands of vehicles, because of frame rot? How that can anybody say theyā€™ve never heard of the phenomenon is beyond me, especially if they live in the rust belt.
I inherited a beaten 1978 F100 from my maternal grandfather in the late 80s, it had over 100k, gramps used it for his work truck, he did flooring (great summer job for a grandson too). We also towed his boat with it and tossed a mattress in back to sleep in on weekend fishing trips. It had a cap.
By the time I turned it in for a push-pull-drag trade in for my sisterā€™s first new car it had over 225k, both the capā€™s rear hatch and the tailgate were missing, it was beaten and battered, yep a 4.9L straight six, great motor. But the frame had no issues. I drove it to the dealership after taking the battery out and replacing it with an old cracked one, while the truck was running.
I donā€™t know what you guys are doing, but I vaguely remember someone having a cracked frame, not sub frame, decades ago. We sectioned the frame, cleaned off the rust, and welded in a plug of box tubing. I remember there was some fitting required and punching some holes in the plug to get plenty of weld, but again, the crack was from severe abuse, not rust-through.
I have seen loads of serious rust, minivan door tracks and slider doors rusted out are common, but never seen a rusted out frame. Of course, I only stated working on cars 48 years ago, so I could just be too new to the concept. And I havenā€™t worked in that industry for a long time, just in close vicinity to it. I have seen a few mangled sub frames, from people putting big bucks into motor work, high stall converters, and nitrous, but not in frame ties. But rust had nothing to do with those either.
Oops, just saw the post on getting the thread back on track. No more rusty talk.
 
I inherited a beaten 1978 F100 from my maternal grandfather in the late 80s, it had over 100k, gramps used it for his work truck, he did flooring (great summer job for a grandson too). We also towed his boat with it and tossed a mattress in back to sleep in on weekend fishing trips. It had a cap.
By the time I turned it in for a push-pull-drag trade in for my sisterā€™s first new car it had over 225k, both the capā€™s rear hatch and the tailgate were missing, it was beaten and battered, yep a 4.9L straight six, great motor. But the frame had no issues. I drove it to the dealership after taking the battery out and replacing it with an old cracked one, while the truck was running.
I donā€™t know what you guys are doing, but I vaguely remember someone having a cracked frame, not sub frame, decades ago. We sectioned the frame, cleaned off the rust, and welded in a plug of box tubing. I remember there was some fitting required and punching some holes in the plug to get plenty of weld, but again, the crack was from severe abuse, not rust-through.
I have seen loads of serious rust, minivan door tracks and slider doors rusted out are common, but never seen a rusted out frame. Of course, I only stated working on cars 48 years ago, so I could just be too new to the concept. And I havenā€™t worked in that industry for a long time, just in close vicinity to it. I have seen a few mangled sub frames, from people putting big bucks into motor work, high stall converters, and nitrous, but not in frame ties. But rust had nothing to do with those either.
Oops, just saw the post on getting the thread back on track. No more rusty talk.
Google it, dude. Itā€™s a thing. And you seriously never heard of Toyota buying back hundreds of thousands of trucks for frame rot? Wasnā€™t that long ago, 2008. It ainā€™t something ā€œus guys are doingā€ beyond driving them in the winter here in the east coast.
https://archive.nytimes.com/wheels....5/07/toyota-offers-to-buy-back-rusty-tacomas/
And youā€™re right, no more rusty talk. šŸ™„
 
I'll help get er back on track and drop some pics of the ADU stuff I've installed on my K6 V5.

Suspension mounts all around, blocks, hubs and a center brace.
20240411_101047.jpg

20240411_100222.jpg

20240410_163042.jpg

20240410_162035.jpg

20240410_122535.jpg

20240409_203149.jpg

20240410_124221.jpg

20240410_124208.jpg

20240413_220047.jpg


With the forecast looking good I'll likely be sending it this weekend so hopefully things work out.
 
Last edited:
Iā€™m sort of waiting for the jury to come back on the ADU stuff. Their prices are not cheap, bumping against Vitavon and Scorched parts, both of which I know to be fantastic.
I'll help get er back on track and drop some pics of the ADU stuff I've installed on my K6 V5.

Suspension mounts all around, blocks, hubs and a center brace.
View attachment 362966
View attachment 362968
View attachment 362969
View attachment 362970
View attachment 362972
View attachment 362973
View attachment 362979
View attachment 362980
View attachment 362971

With the forecast looking good I'll likely be sending it this weekend so hopefully things work out.
How are those front hub carriers? Good tolerances, no wiggle?
Also, great looking rig man!
 
Iā€™m sort of waiting for the jury to come back on the ADU stuff. Their prices are not cheap, bumping against Vitavon and Scorched parts, both of which I know to be fantastic.

How are those front hub carriers? Good tolerances, no wiggle?
Also, great looking rig man!
It was my first time adjusting the pillow balls but after a bit of tweaking, I think I was able to get it perfect. There is no play at all around the balls and the steering is nice and smooth with absolutely no binding. Overall, the installation of these ADU parts was painless. Thanks, Dan!
 
It was my first time adjusting the pillow balls but after a bit of tweaking, I think I was able to get it perfect. There is no play at all around the balls and the steering is nice and smooth with absolutely no binding. Overall, the installation of these ADU parts was painless. Thanks, Dan!
How is the finish on them? Some of the parts in the pics looks like they have imperfections on them.
 
I'll help get er back on track and drop some pics of the ADU stuff I've installed on my K6 V5.

Suspension mounts all around, blocks, hubs and a center brace.
View attachment 362966
View attachment 362968
View attachment 362969
View attachment 362970
View attachment 362972
View attachment 362973
View attachment 362979
View attachment 362980
View attachment 362971

With the forecast looking good I'll likely be sending it this weekend so hopefully things work out.
Nice job bringing things back "in line".. a butt load of pics usually "adds" enough space in the thread to blur the irrelevant posts!!šŸ˜‚šŸ‘ŒšŸ»
BTW, those ADU parts look Bitchin'!! šŸ˜Ž
 
Iā€™m sort of waiting for the jury to come back on the ADU stuff. Their prices are not cheap, bumping against Vitavon and Scorched parts, both of which I know to be fantastic.

How are those front hub carriers? Good tolerances, no wiggle?
Also, great looking rig man!
I had a similar thought. I was looking at their O8S chassis plate, and realized it was more expensive than the JBIRC model. Iā€™ll be getting the JBIRC model, as they have a fantastic reputation + cheaper.
 
How is the finish on them? Some of the parts in the pics looks like they have imperfections on them.
I haven't really noticed any imperfections but I may not have as keen an eye for that sort of thing. Also, my camera skills likely leave a lot to be desired. :LOL:

The entire lot cost me approximately $139.
 
Back
Top