Kraton ADU Racing Parts!!!

[KnowAir]

No, no. Wait. It's not a matter of needing long screws. I don't wanna steer you wrong. You have to have a diamond tip dremel bit to fit into theholes to grind them inward and downward towards the chassis...not away.


View attachment 359287

If you got em' and found out the hard way like I did, nearly stripping the threads on the bulkhead fighting it, not knowing why in the hell it won't go, I'd feel guilty.

I finally got the Allin RC rear plates yesterday, a week later than advertised from amazon.. I had no fitment issues with the plates, well the rear anyways. I haven't even opened the fronts since the stock Arrma bits are still rather tight. I have yet to break any of my Arrma plates, they just wear out and get sloppy. With new arms and plates installed on the rear of my Kraton armed Mojo, I still have a bit of play in the arms. I decided to reuse the original Arrma hinge pins thinking they might be better quality than the Allin brand pins, and they may very well be, but also may have a healthy amount of wear from 2+ years of use.. so, I'm going to try the Allin hinge pins and see if that tightens things up. I don't want sloppy "new"arms/hinges before I even start running the truck.

You always have great ideas Dan! I don’t disagree this would probably be the best way. I just really don’t want another electrical system I have to remember to unplug, and another battery I have to maintain. I know me, I’m going to forget .

I use these Castle BEC’s in my drift cars, and this Castle BEC may work for my power hungry servos!


I just noticed that BEC wouldn’t work, it says 6S max for surface. This BEC may be better, and I’m going to pair with this NSDRC servo, when it comes in stock .

Edit: Amain had one, just pulled the trigger. Bye bye AGFRC

Wow! $250 for a servo?! Dang, I paid $260 for the servo, esc and motor in my K8S, LOL. I suppose if I had the disposable income, I would do similar.

 

[joshjosh]

I finally got the Allin RC rear plates yesterday, a week later than advertised from amazon.. I had no fitment issues with the plates, well the rear anyways. I haven't even opened the fronts since the stock Arrma bits are still rather tight. I have yet to break any of my Arrma plates, they just wear out and get sloppy. With new arms and plates installed on the rear of my Kraton armed Mojo, I still have a bit of play in the arms. I decided to reuse the original Arrma hinge pins thinking they might be better quality than the Allin brand pins, and they may very well be, but also may have a healthy amount of wear from 2+ years of use.. so, I'm going to try the Allin hinge pins and see if that tightens things up. I don't want sloppy "new"arms/hinges before I even start running the truck.


Wow! $250 for a servo?! Dang, I paid $260 for the servo, esc and motor in my K8S, LOL. I suppose if I had the disposable income, I would do similar.

I wouldn’t exactly call it disposable, but I save up and buy lots of parts, then make crazy builds. The O8S is about to get wild! I did get the ADU TI hinge pins in! Waiting on the new servo and some bearings, then I’m ready!

$250 is a lot for a 1/5 servo, but that’s also the same price of my 1/10 servo, so maybe I was already preconditioned haha.

 

[joshjosh]

This looks super proprietary, and probably impossible to find any kind of replacement parts that fit, but it does look pretty cool!
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKxDiQO

 

[Shadows]

This looks super proprietary, and probably impossible to find any kind of replacement parts that fit, but it does look pretty cool!
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKxDiQOView attachment 362654

Proprietary, yes, but keyed in, SOLID and practically forever lasting...also yes. Should out-last that rig's original components, including the bulkheads. Would definitely out-last that chassis.

 

[joshjosh]

Proprietary, yes, but keyed in, SOLID and practically forever lasting...also yes. Should out-last that rig's original components, including the bulkheads. Would definitely out-last that chassis.

I’d say yes and no. It’s keyed into itself, and then held in place by screws to the chassis. It’s definitely not as good as having a brace that keys into the chassis plate itself. It is better than a non-keyed brace that relies solely on a single screw to hold it, which I have destroyed many of. The most interesting part to me is that top brace. I like that they increased the distance between the chassis plate and the top brace. It should really keep the chassis plate stiff.

You’re right, it will probably outlast the rig. My only beef with the proprietary work here would be I couldn’t swap it to any rig that didn’t share the Kraton chassis plate. They don’t make longer braces to fit this on a XLWB chassis or similar.

 

[Shadows]

I’d say yes and no. It’s keyed into itself, and then held in place by screws to the chassis. It’s definitely not as good as having a brace that keys into the chassis plate itself. It is better than a non-keyed brace that relies solely on a single screw to hold it, which I have destroyed many of. The most interesting part to me is that top brace. I like that they increased the distance between the chassis plate and the top brace. It should really keep the chassis plate stiff.

You’re right, it will probably outlast the rig. My only beef with the proprietary work here would be I couldn’t swap it to any rig that didn’t share the Kraton chassis plate. They don’t make longer braces to fit this on a XLWB chassis or similar.

That's a good point to make. I can see what you're saying, but the thought they put into it was still thorough. Just means you're gonna have to enjoy the crap out of the Kraton .

I would dig up longer screws to come through the center braces a bit.

And an aluminum (or ADU's stainless steel) diff cup for the center diff.

 

[joshjosh]

That's a good point to make. I can see what you're saying, but the thought they put into it was still thorough. Just means you're gonna have to enjoy the crap out of the Kraton .

I would dig up longer screws to come through the center braces a bit.

And an aluminum (or ADU's stainless steel) diff cup for the center diff.

Yes, this seems to be a thought out part, for sure. Sadly, I don’t have a Kraton, all my 6S bashers are XLWB.

 

[Shadows]

Yes, this seems to be a thought out part, for sure. Sadly, I don’t have a Kraton, all my 6S bashers are XLWB.

. Oh, see...I thought you actually bought that kit. I'm under some stress and wasn't paying full enough attention. Somewhere in another thread I mentioned my car (real 1:1 vehicle) having a busted subframe. A 2008 HHR. MI rust belt completely annihilated it. I knew it was bad, but today when changing back to regular tires from snow tires...the rest of the subframe went CRACKLE POP. It's not longer safe to drive ANYWHERE anymore. I need a new vehicle and cannot afford one. Too bad too because it only has around 44,000 miles. Good engine. Stressed out so bad I had veins sticking out of my temples all day over it, and I can't sleep.

 

[joshjosh]

. Oh, see...I thought you actually bought that kit. I'm under some stress and wasn't paying full enough attention. Somewhere in another thread I mentioned my car (real 1:1 vehicle) having a busted subframe. A 2008 HHR. MI rust belt completely annihilated it. I knew it was bad, but today when changing back to regular tires from snow tires...the rest of the subframe went CRACKLE POP. It's not longer safe to drive ANYWHERE anymore. I need a new vehicle and cannot afford one. Too bad too because it only has around 44,000 miles. Good engine. Stressed out so bad I had veins sticking out of my temples all day over it, and I can't sleep.

I had no idea rust was considered “wear and tear”, and insurance won’t cover that. I really sorry to hear that friend!

In the south we just have to worry about flooding, and not being covered by insurance. How a flood is not covered under regular insurance is beyond me.

 

[Shadows]

I had no idea rust was considered “wear and tear”, and insurance won’t cover that. I really sorry to hear that friend!

In the south we just have to worry about flooding, and not being covered by insurance. How a flood is not covered under regular insurance is beyond me.

And that's why 'extended warranties' are a joke. They won't cover those either....or anything else. Those Car Shield commercials make me wanna vomit. Using people's anxiety to capitalize off it. The poorer and more gullible get screwed over. Maddening. The poor, gullible and old people are targets.

 

[Reverendg]

I agree with the car shield crap being a come on.
But where in Michigan are you that you rusted a subframe through in 44k?
I live in Metro Detroit and have never seen that. Worst I have seen were torsion bar mounts on 70's mopars get rusted til they rip out.

 

[KnowAir]

And that's why 'extended warranties' are a joke. They won't cover those either....or anything else. Those Car Shield commercials make me wanna vomit. Using people's anxiety to capitalize off it. The poorer and more gullible get screwed over. Maddening. The poor, gullible and old people are targets.

Yeah, carshield and all those scammers thrive of off fear and ignorance (and isolated old folks) much like politicians (IMO), LOL. No morals.

I agree with the car shield crap being a come on.
But where in Michigan are you that you rusted a subframe through in 44k?
I live in Metro Detroit and have never seen that. Worst I have seen were torsion bar mounts on 70's mopars get rusted til they rip out.

It's not the mileage, it's the years of exposure to the road salt, combined with bare minimum amount of steel used.. I just went through a similar experience with my 2006 xB Scion. Front subframe rotted out, lower control arm was dangling from the strut and front mount. I rolled the dice for over a year with it, not proud, but we gotta do what we gotta do.. I just replaced the front subframe in it 2 months ago. Found it online, $204, free shipping, 12 month warranty. Locally the junkyard wanted $250, and I'd have to go get it. I'm in NY, the subframe came from CA, for free!! Wow. It is indeed 100% rust free too!! Score!! So, 2 hours on a lift at my buddies place, $300 in parts, subframe, lower control arms, sway bar links and outer tie rod ends, and she's "on the road again"!! 170k miles strong!!

 

[KnowAir]

This looks super proprietary, and probably impossible to find any kind of replacement parts that fit, but it does look pretty cool!
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKxDiQOView attachment 362654

That ADU setup is fire!! Really beefy looking! I suspect this to be possibly the best brace setup for a K6 I've seen yet. If you taco those braces, you got some serious damage!? LOL.

 

[morrjr71]

Corally has beefed up the chassis brace system for their Kagama (pic below). Not bad for a RTR!

https://www.bigsquidrc.com/wp-conte...rally-RC-8th-Kagama-XP-6S-Monster-Truck-5.jpg

 

[Reverendg]

Yeah, carshield and all those scammers thrive of off fear and ignorance (and isolated old folks) much like politicians (IMO), LOL. No morals.


It's not the mileage, it's the years of exposure to the road salt, combined with bare minimum amount of steel used.. I just went through a similar experience with my 2006 xB Scion. Front subframe rotted out, lower control arm was dangling from the strut and front mount. I rolled the dice for over a year with it, not proud, but we gotta do what we gotta do.. I just replaced the front subframe in it 2 months ago. Found it online, $204, free shipping, 12 month warranty. Locally the junkyard wanted $250, and I'd have to go get it. I'm in NY, the subframe came from CA, for free!! Wow. It is indeed 100% rust free too!! Score!! So, 2 hours on a lift at my buddies place, $300 in parts, subframe, lower control arms, sway bar links and outer tie rod ends, and she's "on the road again"!! 170k miles strong!!

Again, I have lived most of my life in Michigan, we use salt on our roads. I use salt on my walks after I shovel. Never had a car do that. I’ve seen plenty of rust, but never seen it devour a frame component.

 

[Shadows]

Again, I have lived most of my life in Michigan, we use salt on our roads. I use salt on my walks after I shovel. Never had a car do that. I’ve seen plenty of rust, but never seen it devour a frame component.

Well, I assure you....it happens. They don't make em' like they used to. The unibody on my 1984 Plymouth Gran Fury was a tank compared to how they make them now. Similar with my 2000 GMC Safai van. Solid. But the delta platform for small vehicles? Trash. Cobalts, HHR's and Pontiac G5's were meant to be a temporary small car until the "NEW GM" came to be with more modern vehicles like the Chevy Cruze etc. Yeah, more outsourced labor and parts, then putting more effort into better designs. Delta platform was meant to be thrown away. They always have tie rod problems. Get all new tie rods, then 20 miles later...They're clunking again. Doesn't matter what solution there is. Permanent problem. I don't have the tools, know how, or friends to help me out to see if a subframe could be replaced.

 

[joshjosh]

Yeah, carshield and all those scammers thrive of off fear and ignorance (and isolated old folks) much like politicians (IMO), LOL. No morals.


It's not the mileage, it's the years of exposure to the road salt, combined with bare minimum amount of steel used.. I just went through a similar experience with my 2006 xB Scion. Front subframe rotted out, lower control arm was dangling from the strut and front mount. I rolled the dice for over a year with it, not proud, but we gotta do what we gotta do.. I just replaced the front subframe in it 2 months ago. Found it online, $204, free shipping, 12 month warranty. Locally the junkyard wanted $250, and I'd have to go get it. I'm in NY, the subframe came from CA, for free!! Wow. It is indeed 100% rust free too!! Score!! So, 2 hours on a lift at my buddies place, $300 in parts, subframe, lower control arms, sway bar links and outer tie rod ends, and she's "on the road again"!! 170k miles strong!!

That ADU setup is fire!! Really beefy looking! I suspect this to be possibly the best brace setup for a K6 I've seen yet. If you taco those braces, you got some serious damage!? LOL.

Those braces do look beefy, for sure! After doing lots of testing, and working on a lot of crawlers, I’ve completely changed what I look for in aftermarket parts. If it’s going up top, then it’s going to be carbon fiber in my rigs. Going CF up top really lowers the CG, and improves handling, jumping, etc. almost all my rigs use the cheap CF braces on eBay, but I do shim them, but I shim everything
CF Brace

 

[Shadows]

View attachment 362722


Those braces do look beefy, for sure! After doing lots of testing, and working on a lot of crawlers, I’ve completely changed what I look for in aftermarket parts. If it’s going up top, then it’s going to be carbon fiber in my rigs. Going CF up top really lowers the CG, and improves handling, jumping, etc. almost all my rigs use the cheap CF braces on eBay, but I do shim them, but I shim everything
CF Brace
View attachment 362723

Going light is good. Can't argue with that. eBay carbon fiber is pretty tempting. That brace looks undeniable lol.

 

[Dan B.]

View attachment 362722


Those braces do look beefy, for sure! After doing lots of testing, and working on a lot of crawlers, I’ve completely changed what I look for in aftermarket parts. If it’s going up top, then it’s going to be carbon fiber in my rigs. Going CF up top really lowers the CG, and improves handling, jumping, etc. almost all my rigs use the cheap CF braces on eBay, but I do shim them, but I shim everything
CF Brace
View attachment 362723

In this hobby, the proper shimming of all moving parts is what separates the noobs from a successful builder. Every a-arm and all other suspension and steering joints in everything I build are properly shimmed. I run a slop-free joint, yo. So kudos to you for doing things right.

 

[joshjosh]

Going light is good. Can't argue with that. eBay carbon fiber is pretty tempting. That brace looks undeniable lol.

I started with the Basherqueen braces with 7075 ends, at almost double the price. The all threads are epoxied into the CF shaft, and it ripped right out. I’ve yet to break one of these solid piece CF braces. I also switched all my shock towers to CF as well. The TI shock towers are 86 1/2 G’s, while the CF are only 24g’s.