Snapped front shock on Vortek 3s, what is the best replacement shock?

[Trickman2]

Think I am going to do a couple more mods on them.
- First I am going to upgrade the front shocks to the aluminum ones. Alum Arrma front Shock

Then I am going to finish the M2C Racing mods available. ( The price on those Motor Plates hurt...lol)

1. M2C 3473 MOTOR PLATE AND UPPER CHASSIS BRACE FOR ARRMA
2. Replace the Spur Gear while I am in there Hot Racing Arrma 4x4 BLX Steel 0.8MOD Spur Gear (57T)

- I liked the braces I already put on the bottom by them.
M2C 3450 ARRMA 3S SWB CHASSIS BRACE VORTEK / GRANITE

I am assuming they will be pretty bulletproof at that point.

Down the road the Mojave shocks in the rear seem like a awesome idea.

Maybe have to upgrade the Suspension arms down the road but seems like RPM makes a nice set.


JennyRC seems like a gamechanger for having parts on hand.

Ordered some spare parts from JennyRC to have on hand.

• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - Tie Rods & Turnbuckles (Front/Rear ARA4305V3 × 2
• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - BUMPERS (front rear & Bumper Springs ARA4305V3 x1
• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - DRIVESHAFTS front/rear axle senton big rock ARA4305V3 × 1
• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - 14mm metal wheel HEX HUBS (senton bigrock ARA4305V3 × 2
• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - Side Guards, Towers Mounts Bulkhead Bumpers ARA4305V3 × 2
• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - SCREWS & TOOLS nuts hardware senton typhon ARA4305V3 × 3
• Arrma VORTEKS 4x4 3s BLX - Suspension A-Arms front/Rear senton mega ARA4305V3 × 2

Anything Critical I am missing? It is no fun if they are always breaking and even worse if we are just always waiting for replacement parts.

That is my plan at the moment...thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Velodromed]

most people either taped it off or one guy used the fuzzy side of velcro on the edges of the box.

I’ve put the soft side of velcro underneath all my spur cases these last couple years. I also service them often, every 6 runs or so I’ll open it up and clean it out. I also put a O ring around the motor shaft up against the bearing, with o-ring grease, and tape off all the mounting holes that aren’t being used. I’ve haven’t had a spur or motor bearing failure in over two years. I’m still running stock motors that are two+ years old. I probably do not drive my car as hard as many do, but I do drive them every single day that I can, which is most days.

I have four, 3S cars, one 4s car and I’m building another 4s car. I have found them extremely durable and dependable. But I also like to wrench on them constantly and I don’t wait for parts to fail, I replace those that look like they’re getting close to being done. I tend to rebuild them often, typically a couple times a year. They just work for me.

 

[Trickman2]

I’ve put the soft side of velcro underneath all my spur cases these last couple years. I also service them often, every 6 runs or so I’ll open it up and clean it out. I also put a O ring around the motor shaft up against the bearing, with o-ring grease, and tape off all the mounting holes that aren’t being used. I’ve haven’t had a spur or motor bearing failure in over two years. I’m still running stock motors that are two+ years old. I probably do not drive my car as hard as many do, but I do drive them every single day that I can, which is most days.

I have four, 3S cars, one 4s car and I’m building another 4s car. I have found them extremely durable and dependable. But I also like to wrench on them constantly and I don’t wait for parts to fail, I replace those that look like they’re getting close to being done. I tend to rebuild them often, typically a couple times a year. They just work for me.

Any parts you recommend keeping on hand? I just ordered a bunch from JennyRC as it they all seemed reasonably priced. I don't mind getting my hands dirty and taking things apart and changing things as needed.

 

[SrC]

Interesting what issues are with the motor module?

The main complaint is that the PM collects so much dirt and debris. Ruins the BB's , slipper spur/ pinion and motor. Very frequent clean outs seem to reduce issues to some extent. The Motor mount tends to bend easily also depending how you send it, and driver error crashes as well. So gear mesh gets all wonky. This why opening the PM often is necessary. Inpecting it very often. Arrma designed the PM to be easily slid out and removed.
Wish they came up with a better 4x4 drivetrain design however.
Preventive maintenance will keep you from needing replacement parts much sooner than later. Neglecting this, and you will always be chasing a ghost, being a slave to replacing the same parts often, over and over.
Just is what it is.

 

[Trickman2]

The main complaint is that the PM collects so much dirt and debris. Ruins the BB's , slipper spur/ pinion and motor. Very frequent clean outs seem to reduce issues to sme extent. The Motor mount tends to bend easily also depending how you send it, and driver error crahes as well. So mesh gets all wonky. This why opening the PM often is necessary. Inpecting it often.
Preventive maintenance will keep you from needing replacement parts much sooner than later. Neglecting this, and you will always be chasing a ghost, being a slave to replacing the same parts often, over and over.
Just is what it is.

I am assuming the M2C racing parts will help with the Motor mount problems. Also firming up the frame with the bottom bracket. Guess time will tell. I had already put the M2C Plate on the bottoms...but said to hell with it and just ordered the M2C 3473 motor plates as well. I will let you guys know if it was worth it in the long run...lol

 

[SrC]

That M2C MM fix seems to work. But dam, so much $Coin$ to correct an inherent flaw with the 4x4 line. Upgrade parts needed that outweigh in many cases the price of a 4x4 out the box.
Arrma just never adressed it.

 

[Velodromed]

Any parts you recommend keeping on hand? I just ordered a bunch from JennyRC as it they all seemed reasonably priced. I don't mind getting my hands dirty and taking things apart and changing things as needed.

Hub carriers front and back, I break those most.
Extra set of arms.
Traxxas turnbuckles off the slash or rustler (on jennysrc.com for 15 or so bucks or less). I replace the stock turnbuckles with those as they wear out.
When the s651 servo goes out I replace it with an s652 from the 6s line (19 bucks on Jenny’s). It just drops in easy like.
Extra spur gear assembly.
Extra steering assemblies on Jenny’s only cost a couple buck and include the bellcrank and servo so when steering suffers I swap a new one in.
Rubberized CA glue to reglue tires. I check them every run and reglue as needed as well as glue any holes or tears.
Bearings. I have lots of bearings and replace when even a little crunchy. I save the old ones for my ‘mud car’, which is built from old parts. Wheel bearings go the most so I buy those bulk from Jim’s or TRB.
Diff and shock oils for servicing and set up needs.
I’ve built up a lot of parts over the last couple years but I’ve a decent amount of cars. Extra diffs, spurs, chassis etc. I like to be able to fix something quick. I also like to build my own cars. Like the one below. I’m also building a 4s vorteks with v1/v2 parts at this time. Hoping to be done in the next few days.

**Before stockpiling parts you may want to bash awhile and see what you damage most. Everyone’s driving style differs.

 

[Trickman2]

That M2C MM fix seems to work. But dam, so much $Coin$ to correct an inherent flaw with the 4x4 line. Upgrade parts needed that outweigh in many cases the price of a 4x4 out the box.
Arrma just never adressed it.

Agreed, but considering I got both for 310 dollars each on sale on Amazon in October and the Traxxis Rustler equivalent was 430 at the time (I am sure it has its own issues). Throwing in 125 dollars in upgrades doesn't seem to horrible to make it bulletproof. Also didn't have to do it all at once. Parts breaking I expected but figured as long as I can get replacement parts for a decent price then no biggie.

Hub carriers front and back, I break those most.
Extra set of arms.
Traxxas turnbuckles off the slash or rustler (on jennysrc.com for 15 or so bucks or less). I replace the stock turnbuckles with those as they wear out.
When the s651 servo goes out I replace it with an s652 from the 6s line (19 bucks on Jenny’s). It just drops in easy like.
Extra spur gear assembly.
Extra steering assemblies on Jenny’s only cost a couple buck and include the bellcrank and servo so when steering suffers I swap a new one in.
Rubberized CA glue to reglue tires. I check them every run and reglue as needed as well as glue any holes or tears.
Bearings. I have lots of bearings and replace when even a little crunchy. I save the old ones for my ‘mud car’, which is built from old parts. Wheel bearings go the most so I buy those bulk from Jim’s or TRB.
Diff and shock oils for servicing and set up needs.
I’ve built up a lot of parts over the last couple years but I’ve a decent amount of cars. Extra diffs, spurs, chassis etc. I like to be able to fix something quick. I also like to build my own cars. Like the one below. I’m also building a 4s vorteks with v1/v2 parts at this time. Hoping to be done in the next few days.

**Before stockpiling parts you may want to bash awhile and see what you damage most. Everyone’s driving style differs.

View attachment 265540

Very cool and at the moment figured just build up a decent little kit...I doubt I would have done that if not for the prices on JennyRC.

 

[SrC]

The concept of wanting to "bulletproof", brings you down that Rabbit hole. Will probaby need to $double$ that, to make it closer to how you want it , but just never truly Bulletproof.
Without JennysRC and other kit breakers, this hobby would otherwise be unaffordable for many of us.

 

[RCbuzz]

Okay so my daughters Vortek 3s Arrma snapped a front shock. What is my best options for replacement. Seems like a lot of options. Would like something more durable without changing the feel of the car. Thanks in advance.

Most of my 3S rigs still run stock shocks. We actually find them to be pretty good for stockers. Ever since sealing 3s power modules (we seal every one now) we see far less issues with the power modules (even with the plastic spur).

Just stick with stock arms, they are cheap and don't sag like the RPM ones. I have been pursuing Metal Yokes (per @Velodromed) after a rash of diff failures.. Would like to stick with plastic and have heard the metal yokes are the way to go for longevity. Have not tested enough to confirm that. Mostly running stock.

Trying out a thicker stock motor mount plate now and also a 3D printed rear motor support (if you have a printer check out Thingiverse).

 

[Velodromed]

The concept of wanting to "bulletproof", brings you down that Rabbit hole. Will probaby need to $double$ that, to make it closer to how you want it , but just never truly Bulletproof.
Without JennysRC and other kit breakers, this hobby would otherwise be unaffordable for many of us.

Yeah, bullet proof doesn’t exist. All can do the thing is make the things more able to handle your driving style. But you’re going to still spend 3 to 4 times more working on it than driving it. But that’s the fun part! Way more funner than driving

 

[Trickman2]

Most of my 3S rigs still run stock shocks. We actually find them to be pretty good for stockers. Ever since sealing 3s power modules (we seal every one now) we see far less issues with the power modules (even with the plastic spur).

Just stick with stock arms, they are cheap and don't sag like the RPM ones. I have been pursuing Metal Yokes (per @Velodromed) after a rash of diff failures.. Would like to stick with plastic and have heard the metal yokes are the way to go for longevity. Have not tested enough to confirm that. Mostly running stock.

Trying out a thicker stock motor mount plate now and also a 3D printed rear motor support (if you have a printer check out Thingiverse).

How do you seal the power modules?

Hub carriers front and back, I break those most.
Extra set of arms.
Traxxas turnbuckles off the slash or rustler (on jennysrc.com for 15 or so bucks or less). I replace the stock turnbuckles with those as they wear out.
When the s651 servo goes out I replace it with an s652 from the 6s line (19 bucks on Jenny’s). It just drops in easy like.
Extra spur gear assembly.
Extra steering assemblies on Jenny’s only cost a couple buck and include the bellcrank and servo so when steering suffers I swap a new one in.
Rubberized CA glue to reglue tires. I check them every run and reglue as needed as well as glue any holes or tears.
Bearings. I have lots of bearings and replace when even a little crunchy. I save the old ones for my ‘mud car’, which is built from old parts. Wheel bearings go the most so I buy those bulk from Jim’s or TRB.
Diff and shock oils for servicing and set up needs.
I’ve built up a lot of parts over the last couple years but I’ve a decent amount of cars. Extra diffs, spurs, chassis etc. I like to be able to fix something quick. I also like to build my own cars. Like the one below. I’m also building a 4s vorteks with v1/v2 parts at this time. Hoping to be done in the next few days.

**Before stockpiling parts you may want to bash awhile and see what you damage most. Everyone’s driving style differs.

" Traxxas turnbuckles off the slash or rustler (on jennysrc.com for 15 or so bucks or less). I replace the stock turnbuckles with those as they wear out."

Why do you switch out for the Traxxas Turnbuckles?

 

[Velodromed]

How do you seal the power modules?


" Traxxas turnbuckles off the slash or rustler (on jennysrc.com for 15 or so bucks or less). I replace the stock turnbuckles with those as they wear out."

Why do you switch out for the Traxxas Turnbuckles?

They’re a bit stronger than Arrma and they already have metal balls. I’ve bent quite a few arrma turnbuckles and only one Traxxas turnbuckle. All of my cars have longer big rock arms though. Not sure if they could be made short enough for standard granite/vorteks/senton arms.

How do you seal the power modules?

If somebody else doesn’t show you, remind me when I’m back in town Friday and I’ll show you.

 

[slick2500]

I saw something about this on youtube. Looked like most people either taped it off or one guy used the fuzzy side of velcro on the edges of the box. Would seem like it should be a easy fix...wonder why the company left this box open to begin with?

Oh nice, the Mojaves seem like that would be awesome on the back shocks. I just ordered

ARRMA Alum Shock Set Bore:11mm, Length:83mm, Oil:500cSt, ARA330733 for the fronts from Amazon for $33 bucks. Alum Shock ARRMA​

But that would seem like a good upgrade down the line to switch out the rear shocks for the Mojaves. The rear ones been working good?

Like I said I tried all the fixes and nothing helped with either of mine.

Most of my 3S rigs still run stock shocks. We actually find them to be pretty good for stockers. Ever since sealing 3s power modules (we seal every one now) we see far less issues with the power modules (even with the plastic spur).

Just stick with stock arms, they are cheap and don't sag like the RPM ones. I have been pursuing Metal Yokes (per @Velodromed) after a rash of diff failures.. Would like to stick with plastic and have heard the metal yokes are the way to go for longevity. Have not tested enough to confirm that. Mostly running stock.

Trying out a thicker stock motor mount plate now and also a 3D printed rear motor support (if you have a printer check out Thingiverse).

I was not impressed with the Rpm a arms at all.

 

[SrC]

Pretty much all of the RPM arms, for many different models, warp out, stretch and bend too much. The can even break also.
Arm flex is only good up to a point, IMHO.
And with Arms, I prefer them to be rigid, makes for a better handling rig.
Pick your poison.

 

[slick2500]

How do you seal the power modules?


" Traxxas turnbuckles off the slash or rustler (on jennysrc.com for 15 or so bucks or less). I replace the stock turnbuckles with those as they wear out."

Why do you switch out for the Traxxas Turnbuckles?

Because the stock ones bend and break super easy.

 

[Trickman2]

Parts are starting to roll in...

• JennyRC Backup Part order is coming in today
• Hot Racing Arrma 4x4 BLX Steel 0.8MOD Spur Gear (57T)
• Springs for new shocks

M2C racing is days out still...they are slower to get parts from.

 

[Trickman2]

3

They’re a bit stronger than Arrma and they already have metal balls. I’ve been quite an I’ve bent quite a few arrma turnbuckles, and only one Traxxas turnbuckle. All of my cars have a longer big rock arms though. Not sure if they could be made short enough for standard granite/vorteks/senton arms.

If somebody else doesn’t show you, remind me when I’m back in town Friday and I’ll show you.

Mind giving me a quick run-down on your process of how you seal the Module? Seems like you have it down.

 

[Velodromed]

3

Mind giving me a quick run-down on your process of how you seal the Module? Seems like you have it down.

It’s kinda visual and I don’t have one open right now to show. But I will be doing it on this new build I’m working on, so watch this thread and I’ll post pictures when I get a chance. Probably tomorrow.
Thread '4s hybrid Vorteks…Thing (another Velo build)'
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/4s-hybrid-vorteks…thing-another-velo-build.58380/

 

[Trickman2]

It’s kinda visual and I don’t have one open right now to show. But I will be doing it on this new build I’m working on, so watch this thread and I’ll post pictures when I get a chance. Probably tomorrow.
Thread '4s hybrid Vorteks…Thing (another Velo build)'
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/4s-hybrid-vorteks…thing-another-velo-build.58380/

Nice, swapped out the factory mount and put in the Hot racing metal gear on both. Also installed the M2c racing motor mount plate…that thing is beefy. Already had the bottom bracket on but should definitely help.