Simple Green, MAF cleaner, carb cleaner, soap and water, WD-40, silicone spray? I done messed up...

[jondilly1974]

There’s only one way to do it right if it gets wet IMO
View attachment 202610

This

I refuse to run my rigs in wet conditions. Hell last time it was even damp outside I ran in that Michigan mud and it took me a whole day to clean up that crap. I’ll take dry dusty stuff every day.

Mine have been boxed up all winter and I will likely do the MrD method to each and every one. Tear down only takes 15-20mins. Putting together takes a while longer. But you can be sure that when you go to run the next time that it’s in tip top shape.

 

[21STalion]

How long does a tear down typically take?

Must admit I just about always do it in one sitting and it's 4 to 6 hours. Which is a lot. And that doesn't include repacking every bearing and diff, which I do in a separate operation. I just do a basic clean of bearings and a bit of oil. And top up the diffs without full tear down.

Like many of you I don't have time for this so I start after dinner and work to the wee hours on a Friday or Saturday night.

Usually watching some Netflix series or something, lately it's been every star Wars movie chronology and I get through about 2 per rebuild lol

Tearing down is the "easy" part...pick a screw, loosen and move to the next screw. The HARD part is putting it all back together.

It's easier once you do it a few times. I don't fully tear down every piece like @Mr.Duke (that's incredibly thorough) instead I do it in assemblies.

The rear end all together is only 5 screws and a lock nut (w/m2c beefcake)

Front is the same 5 + nut, plus the 9 EXB bumper and 2 steering block and 1 servo. Then whole front end comes off.

Then your left with the stuff in the middle which I usually leave attached because you can get around everything at that point but it's only 3 more screws for the motor mount with motor.

And that's about it. With the front and rear off you can clean everything and make sure no breaks or binds.

So really 27 fasteners and the Talion is fully apart

And that's m2c beefcake and HR everything else and those aftermarket parts increase labour, not reduce it, so stock is less and quicker.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Eveytime I take it apart I usually replace it with an upgrade lol

 

[uncontrolledpair]

Eveytime I take it apart I usually replace it with an upgrade lol

Amirite?

 

[21STalion]

View attachment 202782

Amirite?

I'll be honest, I've been running for hours at a time at the track barely above freezing and sometimes even below! (snow on the ground today) and I'm not breaking anything anymore as mentioned before.

I was cracking the upper arms front arms, but the RPM upper front arms don't break that I have installed now.

The hub carriers used to break, but I changed them to aluminum and they don't break anymore.

I have no issue running full out in the cold....

I'm going for another rip now, I'll go through two sets of packs and hit 100kp/h, and let you know if anything breaks....


EDIT: after saying all this I bet I break something now, I'm not going to the track, just the park, and there are so many more (damaging) things to hit. The track is really nice because its soft and with the pipes around everything is cushy

 

[21STalion]

Welp, no breakages, but the darn CVD pulled out of the diff cup again. No tools on me and losing daylight so couldn't fix it on site.

I swear adjusting the suspension is just useless on these trucks, best to just remove all the shims and run them tight on the CVD's so they never pop out - what a bummer

I have maybe 3mm spacers on the top, and the stock red EXB ring on the bottom, but I'm going to remove all that and just let the suspension be as it lay right on the arms

 

[hobo]

This

I refuse to run my rigs in wet conditions. Hell last time it was even damp outside I ran in that Michigan mud and it took me a whole day to clean up that crap. I’ll take dry dusty stuff every day.

Mine have been boxed up all winter and I will likely do the MrD method to each and every one. Tear down only takes 15-20mins. Putting together takes a while longer. But you can be sure that when you go to run the next time that it’s in tip top shape.

15 20 minutes you must be like superman

 

[Warby]

I haven't read through this complete thread but just want to add that WD40 also acts like a degreaser so don't spray on anything that you want grease or oil to stay on. E.g. bearings. I actually use it to clean/degrease metal parts at work. Its not a good long term lubricant either. I disperses too fast. I use lanolin for that.

 

[Finchy]

I'm a noob, but from what I gather...

If you're trying to repel water, you'll always need some type of lubricant, grease, or wax like coating.

If you're trying to keep it clean and dust free, any type of wet or tacky coating will always attract dust. Even water will attract dust. I think you'd need to run everything bone dry.

I'm thinking about trying some leftover hybrid ceramic wax or spray on ceramic wax myself as the paint on my car just shears water off with the stuff, but it's likely to still rust as the coating is microns thick when buffed off.

I’m in Canada. Land of snow and slop. My regemin. Is for a muddy dirty vehicle I use CRC Electronic parts cleaner everywhere. It is super powerful andrews very fast but won’t turn your plastics Grey. The next thing I use instead of all the expensive protectants, ceramics, wd40. Is I HOPE YOUR ALL SITTING DOWN!!!!!$. Please try this. And report back. I hammer the whole car with lemon pledge. Soak it right down with it. Miss the electronics a bit. Let it sit overnight or however long. I use pledge on all my snowmobiles, quads. Mud and snow won’t even stick to them.

 

[jondilly1974]

15 20 minutes you must be like superman

Haha no just have a decent driver and set of bits. If you take your time with hand tools only, I could see it being a multi-hour job. But with everything you need out in front of you tool wise and using a quality driver, you can strip it down rather quickly.

 

[Jon NC RC]

You right, that's why I go over the Rig every time I run it, I just found that my pinion moved even though it was Loctite in.
View attachment 202648

Are those the Infidel67 fan mounts?

Must admit I just about always do it in one sitting and it's 4 to 6 hours. Which is a lot. And that doesn't include repacking every bearing and diff, which I do in a separate operation. I just do a basic clean of bearings and a bit of oil. And top up the diffs without full tear down.

Like many of you I don't have time for this so I start after dinner and work to the wee hours on a Friday or Saturday night.

Usually watching some Netflix series or something, lately it's been every star Wars movie chronology and I get through about 2 per rebuild lol


It's easier once you do it a few times. I don't fully tear down every piece like @Mr.Duke (that's incredibly thorough) instead I do it in assemblies.

The rear end all together is only 5 screws and a lock nut (w/m2c beefcake)

Front is the same 5 + nut, plus the 9 EXB bumper and 2 steering block and 1 servo. Then whole front end comes off.

Then your left with the stuff in the middle which I usually leave attached because you can get around everything at that point but it's only 3 more screws for the motor mount with motor.

And that's about it. With the front and rear off you can clean everything and make sure no breaks or binds.

So really 27 fasteners and the Talion is fully apart

And that's m2c beefcake and HR everything else and those aftermarket parts increase labour, not reduce it, so stock is less and quicker.

First time teardown or depthful maintenance is always rather intimidating...... does get easier after that....typically

Your approach is good.....make it enjoyable as you can....

BUT NEVER RUSH

15 20 minutes you must be like superman

No....not Superman.... @jondilly1974 is like

he uses THE FORCE

 

[mossburg]

Ok this is what I do. Been doing it for years and has worked great…. For one stay out of areas with salt. No hope after that point. When done playing in the snow. Bring it inside and flip over on its top so that no water will be able to collect. Let it sit there till dry. Obviously battery removed. Once dry I fill a syringe with bearing oil and add a drop into every exposed bearing and making sure to work it in well. Then I take some lucas red and tacky and around the diff cases or any seams that I don’t want water in I lightly add some with a q tip just enough to close over the seams even where it will sit on a chassis. Occasionally I will hang it up in the wash tub and use a steamer to get in the tight spots as dirt and grime builds up. When drying it make sure to take rims off so water doesn’t get into the vents in the rims or tires. Once all is said and done I lightly spray everything with a ceramic detailing spray and let sit for a few minutes then wipe off what you can. Next time out snow and water will not easily stick to it and drying time will be significantly cut down. Once you do it a few times playing in the snow really only adds an extra 5 mins of clean up.

Also I use oil in my bearings and oil them every time I take them out regardless. Old habit from racing days. But I leave hard to reach as grease.

Awesome tip on the ceramic detailer, I use Meguires ultimate detailer for plastics, rubber, vinyl and etc. Works well, sheds h2o and makes clean up way easier. Doesn’t remain tacky either. Either way both products make life easier.

 

[Tigershark1956]

If I could add 2 cents here, I would be careful with what you use to clean your car. Carb cleaner will be rough on plastic. Tends to soften or weaken the plastic. Same with things like PB Blast, Kroil. I only mention this as some might be tempted to try these if WD40 isn't available to them. Harsher chemicals will weaken the plastic. And I know for a fact if you get PB Blast on rubber it will distort it. Like o rings..

 

[mutosan]

I am wondering why everyone used WD40 to clean their cars. Its oil for parts and not to clean cars. It even alters plastic. I only use water, high pressure stream, and after that proper air out of the compressor. Only had problems with rust if I did not remove the water. Sometimes I also clean the rest with a paper towel/piece.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Are those the Infidel67 fan mounts?

Yes Sir

 

[21STalion]

I am wondering why everyone used WD40 to clean their cars. Its oil for parts and not to clean cars. It even alters plastic. I only use water, high pressure stream, and after that proper air out of the compressor. Only had problems with rust if I did not remove the water. Sometimes I also clean the rest with a paper towel/piece.

WD40 is no good for plastic, but it's great to get the water out of bearing after wet runs if you can avoid getting it on the plastic (Which you can't). Then you have to go in later and relube all the bearings anyways. Its just not worth using WD40

The other WD40 that is worth using the the specialist silicone, its absolutely entirely different and safe for most things RC as its the same type of silicone we use in our diffs and shocks. Its much less useful though, but does help with easier cleaning.

I just use a 200+mph leafblower and brushes now.

Its a leafblower I bought specifically for drying things off quickly

 

[Yazman]

I like the pledge furniture polish idea. Like the ceramic spray, but much cheaper

 

[21STalion]

I like the pledge furniture polish idea. Like the ceramic spray, but much cheaper

Actually in my other hobby we use pledge furniture polish, and its actually an acrylic clear coat basically, kind of like a less harsh varnish. It's the same as buying a gloss coat for your model painting. And yes, I'd imagine it makes clean up a lot easier.

Of course, now that my rig has been sprayed in silicone I'm pretty sure that the pledge isn't every going to stick to it now

 

[Warby]

I just use a 200+mph leafblower and brushes now.

Its a leafblower I bought specifically for drying things off quickly

I too use a leaf blower for not only drying after washing but also to blow out the dust and leaves before cleaning. Works well.

 

[21STalion]

I too use a leaf blower for not only drying after washing but also to blow out the dust and leaves before cleaning. Works well.

Yeeeep, after a nice long run in the wet, all you need is a nice thorough blow job, and call her a night.