Simple Green, MAF cleaner, carb cleaner, soap and water, WD-40, silicone spray? I done messed up...

[Yazman]

I've been snow bashing my Xmaxx, Noto, and Maxx, and I've been trying to take really good care of them. I have a dust cover for all of them, and I spray down the entire rig (minus electronics) before bashing with silicone spray. Afterward, I dry the whole truck with a towel and hair dryer, then spray a very liberal coat of WD-40 all over everything (minus electronics) and let it dry.

I thought everything was cool, until I broke the front upper bulkhead on my Xmaxx. When I opened the rig up, I found that every single space was invaded by WD-40 and dirt. A bunch of bearings were scratchy and the outside diff housing had water and junk in them. I ended up tearing apart the entire Xmaxx and soaking all the bearings in alcohol/simplegreen mix. I'm also working on spraying and wiping down everything with simplegreen. I've bought some marine grease for the outside of the diffs.

I read so much conflicting information--don't use WD-40, use WD-40 but only after running, use carb cleaner, don't use carb cleaner, use water to wash your rig, don't use water. You get the idea.

I'm a noob trying to take good care of my stuff. My Xmaxx is in a million pieces on the floor, and I'd like to avoid this again for as long as possible. Advice is much appreciated.

 

[Closey]

I've been snow bashing my Xmaxx, Noto, and Maxx, and I've been trying to take really good care of them. I have a dust cover for all of them, and I spray down the entire rig (minus electronics) before bashing with silicone spray. Afterward, I dry the whole truck with a towel and hair dryer, then spray a very liberal coat of WD-40 all over everything (minus electronics) and let it dry.

I thought everything was cool, until I broke the front upper bulkhead on my Xmaxx. When I opened the rig up, I found that every single space was invaded by WD-40 and dirt. A bunch of bearings were scratchy and the outside diff housing had water and junk in them. I ended up tearing apart the entire Xmaxx and soaking all the bearings in alcohol/simplegreen mix. I'm also working on spraying and wiping down everything with simplegreen. I've bought some marine grease for the outside of the diffs.

I read so much conflicting information--don't use WD-40, use WD-40 but only after running, use carb cleaner, don't use carb cleaner, use water to wash your rig, don't use water. You get the idea.

I'm a noob trying to take good care of my stuff. My Xmaxx is in a million pieces on the floor, and I'd like to avoid this again for as long as possible. Advice is much appreciated.

I never use wd40, wash and dry with air compressor is all I do, I run in snow and everything, never used silicone spray either.

If wd40 is left on like you said it will just attract dirt and cause more problems.

 

[Cheez]

Keep in mind that WD-40 and water don’t mix. WD literally stands “water displacement “. It’s practical use would be on hardware (screws, nuts, bolts etc.) prior to and/or immediately after water/snow contact.

 

[Yazman]

I never use wd40, wash and dry with air compressor is all I do, I run in snow and everything, never used silicone spray either.

If wd40 is left on like you said it will just attract dirt and cause more problems.

I'm playing devil's advocate here, but I've heard people say that an air compressor can drive water deep into bearings and electronics (not saying that is true/untrue). The bigger issue is that I don't have a compressor (I could use canned air though).

Keep in mind that WD-40 and water don’t mix. WD literally stands “water displacement “. It’s practical use would be on hardware (screws, nuts, bolts etc.) prior to and/or immediately after water/snow contact.

That's what confuses me--I've seen threads where people say it will displace water in places where it shouldn't be, so that you should use WD-40 to drive out all the water from your rig. But obviously, it doesn't work, and I now know lol!

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

I never ever use WD40, maybe cleaning tools, freaking old Myth

 

[Clubin]

I always use Wd40.

I bring my model into the heated shop. Let it defrost. Blow it off with compressed air and spray it down with wd40. Then let it dry and put it back on the shelf.

 

[Closey]

I'm playing devil's advocate here, but I've heard people say that an air compressor can drive water deep into bearings and electronics (not saying that is true/untrue). The bigger issue is that I don't have a compressor (I could use canned air though).

That's what confuses me--I've seen threads where people say it will displace water in places where it shouldn't be, so that you should use WD-40 to drive out all the water from your rig. But obviously, it doesn't work, and I now know lol!

I do pack exposed bearings with grease.

 

[Yazman]

I do pack exposed bearings with grease.

I've also thought about packing my bearings with marine grease, but then I've heard people say that thick grease will just "spin out" of the bearings. This is all too complicated lol. I just want to maximize play time and minimize fixing/maintenance time.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Ok this is what I do. Been doing it for years and has worked great…. For one stay out of areas with salt. No hope after that point. When done playing in the snow. Bring it inside and flip over on its top so that no water will be able to collect. Let it sit there till dry. Obviously battery removed. Once dry I fill a syringe with bearing oil and add a drop into every exposed bearing and making sure to work it in well. Then I take some lucas red and tacky and around the diff cases or any seams that I don’t want water in I lightly add some with a q tip just enough to close over the seams even where it will sit on a chassis. Occasionally I will hang it up in the wash tub and use a steamer to get in the tight spots as dirt and grime builds up. When drying it make sure to take rims off so water doesn’t get into the vents in the rims or tires. Once all is said and done I lightly spray everything with a ceramic detailing spray and let sit for a few minutes then wipe off what you can. Next time out snow and water will not easily stick to it and drying time will be significantly cut down. Once you do it a few times playing in the snow really only adds an extra 5 mins of clean up.

Also I use oil in my bearings and oil them every time I take them out regardless. Old habit from racing days. But I leave hard to reach as grease.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

I blew seals before cuz I loved over greasing bearings but better then dry bearings

 

[Jordan10R]

I use wd 40 all the time but I spray on a paint brush and dab it on just screws and plastic. So I know where it's going. But I don't or try not to drive in wet terrain.

 

[Jon NC RC]

Simple Green and air compressor.

@3d-rc.myshopify.com gives a better recommendation for elements encountered when in wet/snow

My own personal choice - FOR ME ONLY ...... is dry conditions as best as possible, no powdery sand.... no water/snow for me (yeah, I know, I'm missing out.....)

I've been snow bashing my Xmaxx, Noto, and Maxx, and I've been trying to take really good care of them. I have a dust cover for all of them, and I spray down the entire rig (minus electronics) before bashing with silicone spray. Afterward, I dry the whole truck with a towel and hair dryer, then spray a very liberal coat of WD-40 all over everything (minus electronics) and let it dry.

I thought everything was cool, until I broke the front upper bulkhead on my Xmaxx. When I opened the rig up, I found that every single space was invaded by WD-40 and dirt. A bunch of bearings were scratchy and the outside diff housing had water and junk in them. I ended up tearing apart the entire Xmaxx and soaking all the bearings in alcohol/simplegreen mix. I'm also working on spraying and wiping down everything with simplegreen. I've bought some marine grease for the outside of the diffs.

I read so much conflicting information--don't use WD-40, use WD-40 but only after running, use carb cleaner, don't use carb cleaner, use water to wash your rig, don't use water. You get the idea.

I'm a noob trying to take good care of my stuff. My Xmaxx is in a million pieces on the floor, and I'd like to avoid this again for as long as possible. Advice is much appreciated.

Marine grease is good stuff...... nice choice IMO

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Anything you do, just don't use Break cleaner
that sh*t will suck the grease out of your skin

 

[uncontrolledpair]

I'm a noob, but from what I gather...

If you're trying to repel water, you'll always need some type of lubricant, grease, or wax like coating.

If you're trying to keep it clean and dust free, any type of wet or tacky coating will always attract dust. Even water will attract dust. I think you'd need to run everything bone dry.

I'm thinking about trying some leftover hybrid ceramic wax or spray on ceramic wax myself as the paint on my car just shears water off with the stuff, but it's likely to still rust as the coating is microns thick when buffed off.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

If I would even think about running in wet condition, I started changing all my fasteners out with SS ones, did all the ones in my Typhon. (Set Screws) so far

 

[Jon NC RC]

If I would even think about running in wet condition, I started changing all my fasteners out with SS ones, did all the ones in my Typhon. (Set Screws) so far

I concur..... I thought I saw someone say they don't have the same tensile strength as the 'regular' screws..... If you have not had any problems with that, SS is a good move in my book....will need to change my Mojave screws .....probably next winter.....have you had any problems?

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

I concur..... I thought I saw someone say they don't have the same tonsil strength as the 'regular' screws..... If you have not had any problems with that, SS is a good move in my book....will need to change my Mojave screws .....probably next winter.....have you had any problems?

No Sir
the tensile strength is higher in carbon? than SS ? I got to re-check that

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

I concur..... I thought I saw someone say they don't have the same tonsil strength as the 'regular' screws..... If you have not had any problems with that, SS is a good move in my book....will need to change my Mojave screws .....probably next winter.....have you had any problems?

Yes stainless is known to bend and strip out easier.

 

[Jon NC RC]

Yes stainless is known to bend and strip out easier.

I was wondering....thanx! If anything, may replace with SS, and have spares......

OR

apply WD to regular screw (carefully) after initial insertion, wipe off excess.... hope for the best

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Yes stainless is known to bend and strip out easier.

Stainless Steel is typically stronger than Mild Steel due to the alloy (chromium) it contains. That's why it is used to create objects that should withstand impactful force or frequent usage. Mild steel tensile strength is relatively lower but can undergo strengthening by adding carbon