Screwed the first time. About to paint a second one

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After my paintjob is all done i want to protect the body im thinking using aluminum tape on a few spots to match the silver. i believe shoe goo is just going pull off the paint. I also heard about flex seal i want to be safe on not pulling the paint up.
 
After my paintjob is all done i want to protect the body im thinking using aluminum tape on a few spots to match the silver. i believe shoe goo is just going pull off the paint. I also heard about flex seal i want to be safe on not pulling the paint up.
I’ve shoo gooed all 4 bodies I’ve painted with no issue.
 
I use PL Premium but another one, PL Max has more flexibility. And I see no reason why either wouldn't stick to the paint. In fact, I wonder if PL Max would help prevent paint chipping due to is flexibility
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I have been testing the paint on a tamiya practice body and im able to scrtch the paint off out of a chip i made but not on the pre painted body one. So that is why im saying this.
 
I have been testing the paint on a tamiya practice body and im able to scrtch the paint off out of a chip i made but not on the pre painted body one. So that is why im saying this.
On all the ones I’ve painted the colors seem more delicate. I’ve accidentally scratched them off and had to touch up. Seems like white black and silver are not near as delicate as the other colors and after I back with one of those paints, it’s pretty tough. Then I shoo goo it after a couple days. I also let it sit in the sun during that time.
 
I’ve painted quite a few bodies
Reading your post makes me really want to help you out …im willing to paint your body for free if you’d like to send it to me

If you have a Facebook account you can look up my work there or you can look here in the forum at some of my posts

I’m willing to do a wild paint paint job for you if you’d like

https://m.facebook.com/pages/category/Shopping---Retail/AJs-Custom-RC-Painting-109753461266952/#_=_
I really appreciate the offer but its something i really want to do myself. Im located in canada and shipping to the states is going to cost an arm if i wanted to ship.
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Im going to take my time to do it perfectly. I hope it pays off. Im trying to replicate how a bright metalic red with black racing lines corvette would look like irl
 
I really appreciate the offer but its something i really want to do myselfView attachment 206941
Ok
I get it
Just trying to help
These bodies are very expensive so experimenting with them can be costly

Here’s the last c8 I did
I usually get about 100$ to do these :)

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My masking tape wasnt the best honestly. I do have a few spots with overspray. I ran out of time i only painted the black lines.
I hope my hobbyshop has the tamiya paint remover
 
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Im planning on putting tape over the lines and removing all the overspray with the tamiya paint remover. I hope i can save it or make it look better than it is
 
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Im planning on putting tape over the lines and removing all the overspray with the tamiya paint remover. I hope i can save it or make it look better than it is
What tape did you use? I’ve had good luck with Tamyia yellow tape. Not so good luck with frog tape and a couple others. I also press the edges down with my thumbnail right before painting. It helps with the seal.

When Ive had straight line bleed issues I would retape the lines a little bit wider and paint it again. That double line would look good as a wide single line. On the gas cap, I’d lay a few lines of tape out, making a fat line of tape, and use a coin to cut out the hole. Using straight tape to mask a round hole won’t work really.

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What tape did you use? I’ve had good luck with Tamyia yellow tape. Not so good luck with frog tape and a couple others. I also press the edges down with my thumbnail right before painting. It helps with the seal.

When Ive had straight line bleed issues I would retape the lines a little bit wider and paint it again. That double line would look good as a wide single line. On the gas cap, I’d lay a few lines of tape out, making a fat line of tape, and use a coin to cut out the hole. Using straight tape to mask a round hole won’t work really.

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I used straight line 3m masking tape. My hobbyshop didnt have the tamiya masking tape in stock:c
 
You have to press down the edges of the tape thoroughly when masking. Run your fingernail back and forth over the edge of the tape for the entire length of the tape. When laying it down, don't stretch it over hills and valleys then try to press it down later. You have to get it into every single groove as you're laying it down. That's why that section over the tail has bled so much. It wasn't fully pressed into all those hills and valleys.

Also minimize how much you touch the sticky side of the tape. The more you touch, the less it will stick. Clean your hands and anything else that touches the sticky side. Any grease/oil/dirt will reduce adhesion. Using an extra long piece, so you only touch the sticky side on the ends that you'll eventually cut off will eliminate all contact. If I end up touching the sticky side too much, I chuck it and get a new one.

I've only done relatively simple paint jobs, but I recognized the areas that would bleed if I wasn't extra careful. I haven't had a problem with bleeding paint using masking tape.
 
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