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- Arrma RC's
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- Outcast 4s
Hey folks, a summary of my new servo & servo saver installation on Outcast 4S V2. Notes for those who might like to try it themselves. Should apply just fine to Kraton 4S V2, or even the 3S vehicles.
Equipment:
* ProModeler servo: https://www.promodeler.com/DS630BLHV
* Kimbrough servo saver: http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29909
* Two M3 button screws (I think mine were 12mm and 8mm? Don't remember) and an M3 nut (preferably nylon lock nut)
1. Dismount the radio box, disconnect the steering link, remove the old servo. The new one is a standard size servo and it requires no special effort to install. Note that the correct positioning of the servo is embossed in plastic on the bottom of the radio box.
You'll need to disconnect the short steering link from the rest of the steering, and from the old servo saver, and put it aside.
2. Cut off both "ears" of the Kimbrough servo saver horn, right up to the first set of holes on each side. I also smoothed out the rough edges with sandpaper. You'll need to do this to prevent the servo saver from hitting the radio box. Note that only the outermost, center hole on the servo horn will be used for this install, but you don't need to trim all the way to the center. Just the outer 1-2mm or so on each side is plenty. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel.
3. Ream out the outermost, center hole of the servo saver so it will fit an M3 screw. I used a small drill bit and chamfered the hole with a pocket knife blade, that was enough to get the screw to fit.
4. On the SPLINE side of the servo saver (the side that will face the servo), place the steering link over the hole you just reamed out, and drive the longer (12mm?) M3 screw through it until the screw is tight.
5. On the other side of the servo saver (the one that will face away from the servo), use the M3 nut to secure the screw and tighten it. Nylon lock nut is best here, I suppose a lock washer would work if you don't mind biting into the plastic on the servo saver. Or a regular nut + threadlock.
5a. (optional) Cut the M3 screw down to be flush with the lock nut. If it's too long, it will hit the radio box.
6. Install the correct servo spline adapter in the servo saver for your servo. The Kimbrough comes with adapters for 23T (Spektrum & Airtronics), 24T (Hitec), 25T (ProModeler & Futaba).
7. Power up the transmitter & the model, then center the steering on the transmitter trim. Oh, I guess you should have plugged new servo into the receiver by this time.
8. Press the Kimbrough Servo Saver on to the servo output spline, following the guidance printed on the radio box to get it aligned.
9. Use your shorter M3 screw to secure the servo saver to the servo. An M3 button screw fits perfectly.
10. Reassemble everything.
I suppose that, if I had it to do over again, I’d try the red ARRMA 25T servo saver. It would be nice to install it without all the modification effort. Overall, I think the Kimbrough is still softer than it needs to be.
Equipment:
* ProModeler servo: https://www.promodeler.com/DS630BLHV
* Kimbrough servo saver: http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29909
* Two M3 button screws (I think mine were 12mm and 8mm? Don't remember) and an M3 nut (preferably nylon lock nut)
1. Dismount the radio box, disconnect the steering link, remove the old servo. The new one is a standard size servo and it requires no special effort to install. Note that the correct positioning of the servo is embossed in plastic on the bottom of the radio box.
You'll need to disconnect the short steering link from the rest of the steering, and from the old servo saver, and put it aside.
2. Cut off both "ears" of the Kimbrough servo saver horn, right up to the first set of holes on each side. I also smoothed out the rough edges with sandpaper. You'll need to do this to prevent the servo saver from hitting the radio box. Note that only the outermost, center hole on the servo horn will be used for this install, but you don't need to trim all the way to the center. Just the outer 1-2mm or so on each side is plenty. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel.
3. Ream out the outermost, center hole of the servo saver so it will fit an M3 screw. I used a small drill bit and chamfered the hole with a pocket knife blade, that was enough to get the screw to fit.
4. On the SPLINE side of the servo saver (the side that will face the servo), place the steering link over the hole you just reamed out, and drive the longer (12mm?) M3 screw through it until the screw is tight.
5. On the other side of the servo saver (the one that will face away from the servo), use the M3 nut to secure the screw and tighten it. Nylon lock nut is best here, I suppose a lock washer would work if you don't mind biting into the plastic on the servo saver. Or a regular nut + threadlock.
5a. (optional) Cut the M3 screw down to be flush with the lock nut. If it's too long, it will hit the radio box.
6. Install the correct servo spline adapter in the servo saver for your servo. The Kimbrough comes with adapters for 23T (Spektrum & Airtronics), 24T (Hitec), 25T (ProModeler & Futaba).
7. Power up the transmitter & the model, then center the steering on the transmitter trim. Oh, I guess you should have plugged new servo into the receiver by this time.
8. Press the Kimbrough Servo Saver on to the servo output spline, following the guidance printed on the radio box to get it aligned.
9. Use your shorter M3 screw to secure the servo saver to the servo. An M3 button screw fits perfectly.
10. Reassemble everything.
I suppose that, if I had it to do over again, I’d try the red ARRMA 25T servo saver. It would be nice to install it without all the modification effort. Overall, I think the Kimbrough is still softer than it needs to be.
