My MIP drivers suck, are there better options?

[MAVERICK@2]

I use only snap-on bits, drivers, and T-handles.

The 2 + 2.5 bits get used the most and I have to get them warranted every 1.5 years or so

 

[sumguy75]

You are abusing your MIP hex drivers. Sorry. You are simply doing something wrong.

MIP's here for 25+ years now. Only on my second replacement set as of recently. Tons of wrenching hours on them. The 1.5mm driver will always wear out fast. Any brand. Food for thought.
I also have the AMZ cheapos and a set of Vanquish products. The cheapos are just cheap. Yet serve a purpose on ocassion.
Don't use ball hex drivers, and expect them to last either, no matter the brand. And especially if you abuse them also. Once ruined, it's a wrap. I always wipe the tips down also. Need to care for these tools.
If you are rough on your tools, just get cheapo stuff and keep replacing them and the ruined hardware that results. What else can I say.
Wrenching on cruddy dirty, or rusted Hex heads will also ruin most any hex driver and fastener. That is user error.
If using SS hardware, they will always strip out no matter the Hex driver you have there.
Get yourself cheapo stuff if you are not into MIP. You might be happier??? IDK.
I got them all here. Clearly for me, MIP is the best at any price.
Just me.

Not using them any different than the cheap ones, can't remember if they were Dynamite or Hobbypark. Doesn't mean I'm not doing anything wrong, but thought the MIPs would easily outlast the others. Maybe I screwed it up enough on one with rust/dirt etc that it made it easier for it to wear down?

Almost impossible to avoid rust and dirt completely, but I'll pay a lot closer attention and use a pick set as mentioned above.

Also, is there any good reason not to use cap head screws anywhere they fit (obviously not beveled holes though)? I have yet to strip a cap head screw, seems like they hold the hex way better than button heads.

 

[Diem Turner]

Not using them any different than the cheap ones, can't remember if they were Dynamite or Hobbypark. Doesn't mean I'm not doing anything wrong, but thought the MIPs would easily outlast the others. Maybe I screwed it up enough on one with rust/dirt etc that it made it easier for it to wear down?

Almost impossible to avoid rust and dirt completely, but I'll pay a lot closer attention and use a pick set as mentioned above.

Also, is there any good reason not to use cap head screws anywhere they fit (obviously not beveled holes though)? I have yet to strip a cap head screw, seems like they hold the hex way better than button heads.

Cap heads are a lot more robust than button heads. Use them where you can.

 

[carckton driver]

just buy these. they fit exactly the same as when they were new. seriously, just buy these and be done with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MRMWW9S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[Moirae]

I've broken a couple of them tightening grub screws on pinions too. I must be too strong like you!

Haha, I always use brand new grub screws every time too as I strip them super easily. I'm really starting to think I'm heavy handed

 

[slick2500]

I had the same problem with the MIPs, after about 6 months the 2mm was almost completely rounded off. I replaced my MIPs with the cheapo Amazon ones back in 2019 and I'm still using them aside from the 1.5mm, I had to replace the tip as it broke trying to remove a pinion grub screw I didn't know was held in by red thread lock.

I won't ever touch another MIP hand tool after that experience as it is a sad day when a set of 4 Amazon cheapos outlast the 3 MIPs that cost 3 times as much.

 

[Diem Turner]

just buy these. they fit exactly the same as when they were new. seriously, just buy these and be done with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MRMWW9S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Hazet is another good German tool company. Am I biased towards German products? You betcha

 

[sumguy75]

Cap heads are a lot more robust than button heads. Use them where you can.

Will do, just ordered 3mm cap heads in all sizes from 6mm to 25mm.

 

[Velodromed]

I like these drivers from Neewer. I use MIP tools for more delicate work. These I use for the hard stuff. I bought a set over a year ago and they are still extremely good. But like everyone mentioned before you really have to make sure there’s no crud stuck inside the hex head. And if loctite was used you must apply heat. I also tend to replace button heads with socket heads where I can. I also use motor mount screws and grub screws only once, then I toss them and use a new one.

 

[Moirae]

you guys apply heat for blue loctite? X_X

 

[Diem Turner]

you guys apply heat for blue loctite? X_X

Nope. I just make sure the driver is seated properly and never had trouble breaking the lock.

 

[Moirae]

Nope. I just make sure the driver is seated properly and never had trouble breaking the lock.

I didn't think I was doing it wrong but everyone keeps saying apply heat apply heat I'm like wtf? was I supposed to be applying heat to everything?!?

 

[Diem Turner]

I didn't think I was doing it wrong but everyone keeps saying apply heat apply heat I'm like wtf? was I supposed to be applying heat to everything?!?

I think they're generally talking about the hot sauce and not the blu-goo

 

[Warby]

I've had no problems with my MIP'S, both hand and drill driven. Still tight to fit in the screw. The handles also have 100% more grip then the Turnigy set I first bought. I don't regret spending more for the MIPs.

 

[slick2500]

you guys apply heat for blue loctite? X_X

You shouldn't have to use heat for blue.

• LOCK & SEAL FASTENERS: Prevents loosening of metal fasteners caused by vibration on small motors, mowers, and power equipment
• PREVENTS RUST & CORROSION: Protects from leaks, rusting, and corrosion and eliminates need to stock up on expensive lock nuts and washers
• REMOVABLE: Can be removed with hand tools
• EASY & QUICK: Sets in 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours
• FOR 6-19mm FASTENERS: Medium-strength formula for use on threads for 6mm to 19mm (1/4-inch to ¾-inch) nuts and bolts

This is the description for red for what it's worth.

• LOCK & SEAL FASTENERS: Prevents loosening of metal fasteners caused by vibration on engines, machinery, and vehicles
• PREVENTS RUST & CORROSION: Moisture-resistant formula protects from leaks, rusting, and corrosion and eliminates need to stock up on expensive lock nuts and washers
• PERMANENT FIX: Permanent seal prevents tampering and is only removable once cured by heating parts up to 500°F (260°C)
• EASY & QUICK: Sets in 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours
• FOR LARGE FASTENERS: Heavy duty, high-strength formula for use on threads for nuts and bolts up to 1 inch (25mm)

I like these drivers from Neewer. I use MIP tools for more delicate work. These I use for the hard stuff. I bought a set over a year ago and they are still extremely good. But like everyone mentioned before you really have to make sure there’s no crud stuck inside the hex head. And if loctite was used you must apply heat. I also tend to replace button heads with socket heads where I can. I also use motor mount screws and grub screws only once, then I toss them and use a new one.

These? https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Hexag...394691&sprefix=neweer+rc+tools,aps,120&sr=8-9

 

[Velodromed]

You shouldn't have to use heat for blue.

• LOCK & SEAL FASTENERS: Prevents loosening of metal fasteners caused by vibration on small motors, mowers, and power equipment
• PREVENTS RUST & CORROSION: Protects from leaks, rusting, and corrosion and eliminates need to stock up on expensive lock nuts and washers
• REMOVABLE: Can be removed with hand tools
• EASY & QUICK: Sets in 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours
• FOR 6-19mm FASTENERS: Medium-strength formula for use on threads for 6mm to 19mm (1/4-inch to ¾-inch) nuts and bolts

This is the description for red for what it's worth.

• LOCK & SEAL FASTENERS: Prevents loosening of metal fasteners caused by vibration on engines, machinery, and vehicles
• PREVENTS RUST & CORROSION: Moisture-resistant formula protects from leaks, rusting, and corrosion and eliminates need to stock up on expensive lock nuts and washers
• PERMANENT FIX: Permanent seal prevents tampering and is only removable once cured by heating parts up to 500°F (260°C)
• EASY & QUICK: Sets in 10 minutes and fully cures in 24 hours
• FOR LARGE FASTENERS: Heavy duty, high-strength formula for use on threads for nuts and bolts up to 1 inch (25mm)

These? https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Hexag...394691&sprefix=neweer+rc+tools,aps,120&sr=8-9

Yep.
I use loctite blue 243. With some applications I’ve found it needs heat. I use extra on pinion grubs, wheel hub pin retainers and motor mounts. If I can’t get the bolt to budge with the initial torque I immediately apply heat. This happens maybe one out of every six or seven times. I haven’t striped a hex bolt in over a year so I stick with my simple process.

 

[Jimbobjr]

I’ve not experience any problems with my MIP tools. However they are too expensive for what they are and small diameter part is not long enough for a lot of applications. The 25$ ones above are really nice. I have a similar pair and love them for the money.

 

[Moirae]

I’ve not experience any problems with my MIP tools. However they are too expensive for what they are and small diameter part is not long enough for a lot of applications. The 25$ ones above are really nice. I have a similar pair and love them for the money.

I'm about to buy a set of those to keep in the car. I never have tools to fix stuff in the field and have had to bench rigs over the silliest things lol

 

[Velodromed]

These? https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Hexag...394691&sprefix=neweer+rc+tools,aps,120&sr=8-9

Yes these are the ones.

 

[slick2500]

Yep.
I use loctite blue 243. With some applications I’ve found it needs heat. I use extra on pinion grubs, wheel hub pin retainers and motor mounts. If I can’t get the bolt to budge with the initial torque I immediately apply heat. This happens maybe one out of every six or seven times. I haven’t striped a hex bolt in over a year so I stick with my simple process.

Last time I stripped out a screw it was the grub screw in my wheel hex.