I'VE HAD IT!!!!!

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RxMonkey said:
Hey buddy we’ve all been there. Rc can be both fun and enjoyable and also expensive and aggravating. Take a breath and step away for a minute. Lets look at this when you calm down a bit.

First no RC I’ve ever had had hardware worth a damn. All of it is cheap as hell and only good for stripping. 2 things that you can do.
Buy quality hex drivers (I use integy TiNi coated they’re about $25 and change your life no joke) this will make it so your hex tip is sharp and exact size so it won’t let the screw strip.
Next get some stainless screws. If you don’t want to spend for a whole set look at a site like microfasteners.com or mcmastercarr.com they have stainless Hardware that is stronger and less likely to strip.

Finally I have the same trouble as you my man. For some reason those 3 screws are hell to remove. Here is what I do: take the hex bit out of my integy hex driver. Put it in a strong cordless drill at med speed setting. Push the tip in the screw good and tight. Punch the trigger on the drill. It hits torque quickly and pops the screw loose. Not sure what it is about those screws in particular but they’re really difficult.

I know you love your truck man. Buy a techno if you want. But part of RC is diagnosing and correcting problems. I really think some good tools would help you a lot. I know how frustrating it can be we have all been there. Step away for a while. Come back with a clear head. Sorry for your troubles. Wish you the best my man.
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Well said!!! Where were your words of wisdom and encouragement whe I was discouraged and fed up?Thanks, there’s a lot of truth to what you said. Tinkering with them is part of the hobby. Keep the tid bits of how to solve some of those common problems coming.
 
joostin420 said:
Nice boat :cool: now I have to pull out the boats and get wrenching and tune them up. Didn’t run them last year. The joker and Harley

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Awesome boats! For sure I’ll be running mine this Saturday got this retriever boat.
joostin420 said:
Nice boat :cool: now I have to pull out the boats and get wrenching and tune them up. Didn’t run them last year. The joker and Harley

View attachment 19898
:D
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awesome boats! Be definitely running mine this Saturday.
 
joostin420 said:
Nice boat :cool: now I have to pull out the boats and get wrenching and tune them up. Didn’t run them last year. The joker and Harley

View attachment 19898
:D
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Awesome rack for your boats. But I think you should have added another deck above as protection for the upper boat, in case something falls on it or it gets flipped over by the dog, etc.

What are you using for the black hold-down straps? Some kind of velcro straps, elastic bands or what?
 
Rich Duperbash said:
I've had to drill off a motor mount screw on my brand new V2 Kraton quite awhile back. Sometimes a pen torch or other flame is required to melt threadlock. Higher rated irons will work, but you have to see the locker start smoking first. You can usually smell when it's burning up. It's frustrating to have to deal with no doubt, but not unsurmountable with the right tools.
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I can usually also hear the thread lock sizzle.
slick2500 said:
Stainless steel is softer than 12.9 grade hardened steel just fyi.
"It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. ... Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners. Unless great care is taken, stainless fasteners are susceptible to seizing up during installation, a phenomenon known as galling."
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Thanks, I never knew this and have almost bought the SS screw set many times...
 
Paultro84 said:
Motor mount is now junk as well so I need to order one. Like I said earlier I used it for 10 minutes, and now I need to order parts and wait for them to come in. It's just not worth the hassle.
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My friend, I have been a Master Toyota Technician for almost 20 years now, so what we're all discussing here, I assure you I have been through some difficult situations. One of the biggest issues I had to cope with was generally any problem that wasn't there before I worked on it was, 99.9% of the time my fault. I am not saying that your fault but sounds like you have a lot of run time on this OUTCAST, and they are just like the vehicles we all drive, the older they get, the more they need sometimes to repair them properly. Honestly, ig this was a regular vehicle brought to me let's say, I would only recommend the customer spend the amount of money they would need to for me to get it back to where it was a safe, durable vehicle. I would either buy the TEKNO MT410 or another OUTCAST new, start from scratch again because it sounds like that truck needs to be restored. That's just my opinion, I mean no harm, but if I was you that's what I would do unless you just want to completely restore it with 3 brand new assembled DIFFs, both driveshafts, all 4 axles, install HR hubs, new pinion, new HR MOTOR MOUNT
 
KRA-TON7 said:
My friend, I have been a Master Toyota Technician for almost 20 years now, so what we're all discussing here, I assure you I have been through some difficult situations. One of the biggest issues I had to cope with was generally any problem that wasn't there before I worked on it was, 99.9% of the time my fault. I am not saying that your fault but sounds like you have a lot of run time on this OUTCAST, and they are just like the vehicles we all drive, the older they get, the more they need sometimes to repair them properly. Honestly, ig this was a regular vehicle brought to me let's say, I would only recommend the customer spend the amount of money they would need to for me to get it back to where it was a safe, durable vehicle. I would either buy the TEKNO MT410 or another OUTCAST new, start from scratch again because it sounds like that truck needs to be restored. That's just my opinion, I mean no harm, but if I was you that's what I would do unless you just want to completely restore it with 3 brand new assembled DIFFs, both driveshafts, all 4 axles, install HR hubs, new pinion, new HR MOTOR MOUNT
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It doesn't have that much run time on it at all. In reference to a regular vehicle, it has 30,000 miles on it. Haha I bought it in February. I took all the diffs apart and cleaned everything and now the clicking has stopped. Must have been a little something in the diff oil I didn't notice. I replaced the motor mount with a stock one since I'm selling it. I would dissect it once a month or so for a good anal flushing and to inspect stuff. I don't mind people saying it was my fault. It is what it is, which is my fault. I didnt think I bought a cheap set of hex bits but from what people are telling me, that's exactly what I did. Lesson learned. As a mechanic you obviously know the importance of the proper tools. I'm leaning towards the Tekno MT410, I want to build something from he ground up.
 
Paultro84 said:
It doesn't have that much run time on it at all. In reference to a regular vehicle, it has 30,000 miles on it. Haha I bought it in February. I took all the diffs apart and cleaned everything and now the clicking has stopped. Must have been a little something in the diff oil I didn't notice. I replaced the motor mount with a stock one since I'm selling it. I would dissect it once a month or so for a good anal flushing and to inspect stuff. I don't mind people saying it was my fault. It is what it is, which is my fault. I didnt think I bought a cheap set of hex bits but from what people are telling me, that's exactly what I did. Lesson learned. As a mechanic you obviously know the importance of the proper tools. I'm leaning towards the Tekno MT410, I want to build something from he ground up.
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I almost have more fun building them than I do playing with them lol.
 
slick2500 said:
I swear I saw a 1969 Camaro body laying in there.
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Paultro84 said:
It doesn't have that much run time on it at all. In reference to a regular vehicle, it has 30,000 miles on it. Haha I bought it in February. I took all the diffs apart and cleaned everything and now the clicking has stopped. Must have been a little something in the diff oil I didn't notice. I replaced the motor mount with a stock one since I'm selling it. I would dissect it once a month or so for a good anal flushing and to inspect stuff. I don't mind people saying it was my fault. It is what it is, which is my fault. I didnt think I bought a cheap set of hex bits but from what people are telling me, that's exactly what I did. Lesson learned. As a mechanic you obviously know the importance of the proper tools. I'm leaning towards the Tekno MT410, I want to build something from he ground up.
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Yes
slick2500 said:
I swear I saw a 1969 Camaro body laying in there.
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You probability saw this camero
 

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I have an MT410 and love it. The only two drawbacks are that it has a tight chassis and layout, so if you want to put in a large motor (larger than the Arrma BLX 2050kv from the Outcast), you will have to relocate stuff and it does not have quick access differentials but the thing is built tough as all hell. I also recommend www.Teknoforums.com. The admin over there is awesome. I like him better than the admin here @WoodiE LOL.
 
While we're at it here...
One of the best tools I've bought / owned has been a set of Walter drill bits.
I've been a mechanic for 30+ years...
And spent too much of that time cursing drill bits...

Until me & my friend were installing new bumpers on my Jeep...
And those sweet Walter drill bits worked so fine!!
I went right out & bought a set... 3/8 reduced shank, size small to 1/2".
135 deg, split point, Hex drive! And haven't bought bits for maybe 5 years now...

Night & day from jobber bits...
I know that not very many of us need that kind of drill power on our rc cars...
But since you may use the bits on other things, I just want to share the word!

When I bought my set, the guy says "are you sure, they're expensive..."
I was worried, because my buddy is one of those Snap-On or nothing Dudes...
Then the guy says, yup, $64 bucks...

Hah, I would have paid double, or even triple once I saw how well they worked!

Use the right speed, and correct lube for what you're drilling, don't press too hard,
& those $64 dollar bits will save you much aggravation & down time & money!!

No, I don't work for Walter...
And this turned out way longer than necessary, sorry!
Yes, some others may have other opinions...
But in my experience, these quality bits have been a godsend!
And I only suggest them to share something good with my fellow
Wrench pullers, & RC enthusiasts!

I just had to get my Harley towed home...
That bugs me more than working on my OutCast!
Happy Canada Day all y'all!!
RJP
 
VerticalChallenge said:
I have to agree with the OP, my frustration trying to remove a motor mount from stripped screws wasted hours with much cursing at Arrma for excessive threadlock. Replacing broken parts from crashes is one thing, wasted time working around poor assembly decisions during RTR assembly is another. The experience leaves me leaning towards a eRevo 2, Proline MT, or 410 for my next purchase.

I read the tips here about heating up the screws to cook the threadlock, but couldn't produce a positive effect with a 40 watt soldering iron. The Ryobi screw extractors I attempted to utilize proved useless - I was unable to get any bite. I was having trouble drilling through the screws with my Craftsmen multi-purpose titanium drill bits. As a last desperate measure I got out a Dremel tool and just cut the legs off the motor mount, scuffing my plate up in the process.

View attachment 19869 View attachment 19870 View attachment 19871
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Next time if this happens use your dremel with the little cut of wheel and cut a slot across the head of the screw so you can use a flat blade screw driver. This has saved me before.
I also have one of those little gas tourch that has a refillable cigarette litter inside it,
Has a small blue flame for good control it smokes up that loctite in no time.
 
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