I'VE HAD IT!!!!!

[Jerry-rigged]

So how is it a tool issue when it's not the took that failed? It fit tight in to the head of the screw.

Yeah, I get you. I resisted buying good tools kind of because I was thinking the same. The issue is if the bit is cut a hair small, and then the corners get rounded just a bit - then (with screws as small as we use) you don't have to push much steel for the bit to slip. Here is a test. Get your tools, find a 'new' screw, test fit, and how much play does it have? More play = easier to strip. My MIP tools, if the screw has been used before, they almost won't go in the hole, because they fit so tight. My old Turnigy bits showed wear, but often slipped. I could put my MIP in that same screw, and it could come right out.

Steering and driveline - what issues did you have? maybe we can help you work them out.

 

[WoodiE]

So how is it a tool issue when it's not the took that failed? It fit tight in to the head of the screw.

Every included L hex wrench for any RC manufacture is known to be junk. That's the tool you used to remove the screws... or try to, which then lead to them being stripped.

 

[Paultro84]

Every included L hex wrench for any RC manufacture is known to be junk. That's the tool you used to remove the screws... or try to, which then lead to them being stripped.

I get what you're saying, but it was a tight fit. I wouldn't have even attempted it if there was any slop when I put the hex wrench in.

 

[Paultro84]

Yeah, I get you. I resisted buying good tools kind of because I was thinking the same. The issue is if the bit is cut a hair small, and then the corners get rounded just a bit - then (with screws as small as we use) you don't have to push much steel for the bit to slip. Here is a test. Get your tools, find a 'new' screw, test fit, and how much play does it have? More play = easier to strip. My MIP tools, if the screw has been used before, they almost won't go in the hole, because they fit so tight. My old Turnigy bits showed wear, but often slipped. I could put my MIP in that same screw, and it could come right out.

Steering and driveline - what issues did you have? maybe we can help you work them out.

I honestly thought the Team Associated set was a good set. I couldn't get any leverage with the regular screw driver type handle so I tried the hex wrench. Then someone said put the Association bit in my drill and crack the throttle and the jolt will break them loose. Which is how I stripped the other 2.

 

[Paultro84]

I guess I need to apologize for blaming the truck when it was my own fault the screws stripped. I thought I bought a good set of tools but apparently i was wrong. Sorry to everyone for dogging the Outcast.

 

[Paultro84]

Stainless steel is softer than 12.9 grade hardened steel just fyi.
"It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. ... Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners. Unless great care is taken, stainless fasteners are susceptible to seizing up during installation, a phenomenon known as galling."

I never said I used SS screws. I know they're not as strong. I keep my stuff clean and lubed so rust has never been an issue.

 

[slick2500]

Yeah, I get you. I resisted buying good tools kind of because I was thinking the same. The issue is if the bit is cut a hair small, and then the corners get rounded just a bit - then (with screws as small as we use) you don't have to push much steel for the bit to slip. Here is a test. Get your tools, find a 'new' screw, test fit, and how much play does it have? More play = easier to strip. My MIP tools, if the screw has been used before, they almost won't go in the hole, because they fit so tight. My old Turnigy bits showed wear, but often slipped. I could put my MIP in that same screw, and it could come right out.

Steering and driveline - what issues did you have? maybe we can help you work them out.

I was told the same thing but they say 12.9 right on them.

 

[slick2500]

Every included L hex wrench for any RC manufacture is known to be junk. That's the tool you used to remove the screws... or try to, which then lead to them being stripped.

I tried to use the included L wrenches to remove my stock pinion ,what a mistake that was, the grub screw insta stripped.

I honestly thought the Team Associated set was a good set. I couldn't get any leverage with the regular screw driver type handle so I tried the hex wrench. Then someone said put the Association bit in my drill and crack the throttle and the jolt will break them loose. Which is how I stripped the other 2.

I've made the mistake of buying the red aluminum handled Dynamite drivers after another member of a different forum recommended them, my 2.0 after about 9 months if pretty much round at this point.

 

[Paultro84]

Yeah, I get you. I resisted buying good tools kind of because I was thinking the same. The issue is if the bit is cut a hair small, and then the corners get rounded just a bit - then (with screws as small as we use) you don't have to push much steel for the bit to slip. Here is a test. Get your tools, find a 'new' screw, test fit, and how much play does it have? More play = easier to strip. My MIP tools, if the screw has been used before, they almost won't go in the hole, because they fit so tight. My old Turnigy bits showed wear, but often slipped. I could put my MIP in that same screw, and it could come right out.

Steering and driveline - what issues did you have? maybe we can help you work them out.

Thank you for offering to help but even with a clear head and a day to cool off I'm just done with it and gonna sell it after I replace the motor mount. I'm currently doing my homework on the Tekno MT410 and the ProLine Pro MT. Again, thanks for the help and I apologize for get angry at the truck when it was my fault. Didn't mean to offend anyone.

 

[slick2500]

I never said I used SS screws. I know they're not as strong. I keep my stuff clean and lubed so rust has never been an issue.

That was directed at the guy who suggested and said that stainless steel is stronger.

Thank you for offering to help but even with a clear head and a day to cool off I'm just done with it and gonna sell it after I replace the motor mount. I'm currently doing my homework on the Tekno MT410 and the ProLine Pro MT. Again, thanks for the help and I apologize for get angry at the truck when it was my fault. Didn't mean to offend anyone.

I'd go Tekno over the Proline Pro Mt from what I have heard it's well worth it. Plus kits are so much fun to put together.

 

[Iamtheoutcast]

@slick2500 I made the mistake of buying the dynamite drivers I thought it was a decent set then after about 6months I was again rounding screws. I watched a review on mip drivers and took the plunge thankfully then I realized just how inferior my dynamite set really were. @Paultro84 I'd deff go with the mt410 I have a buddy that has a proline pro mt and he has had a ton of driveline issues. Just figured I'd throw that out there if you havnt heard anyone talk about it yet just something to check into.

 

[Crash]

As far as the arrma OEM screws for the motor mounts I snap a few myself that's why I upgraded to the 12.9 I just double-checked I couldn't remember if it was the 10.9 of the 12.9 but yeah they were 12.9 screws from a local place here in town and I've had no issues since

 

[RxMonkey]

I guess I need to apologize for blaming the truck when it was my own fault the screws stripped. I thought I bought a good set of tools but apparently i was wrong. Sorry to everyone for dogging the Outcast.

I don’t think anyone was upset brother. We just want to help you not be so upset and get back to enjoying your truck!

 

[2fast4u]

Paultro84, It's kind of looking like maybe we would like you to stick around. Although definitely not against your will. I been thinking though. What you are experiencing with the truck may be The Curse. You seen to genuinely care about the condition and care of your truck and probably everything else you own too. Always giving the best parts and maintenance possible. Maybe thats it. It's creating bad luck. Kind of like parking the new ride way out in the lot to protect it and some jacka#& manages to find it. Maybe worry less and bash more would cure it. I know, I'm rambling.

 

[RxMonkey]

That was directed at the guy who suggested and said that stainless steel is stronger.

That was me. I honestly didn’t know that. I believe most rtr hardware is inferior to a set of stainless hw. That’s why I assumed it an upgrade and suggested replacing. If the Arrma rtr hardware is better that’s great. I was planning on buying stainless hw and I’m glad I learned this before spending on a softer metal. I do hate the rust though.

 

[Paultro84]

Paultro84, It's kind of looking like maybe we would like you to stick around. Although definitely not against your will. I been thinking though. What you are experiencing with the truck may be The Curse. You seen to genuinely care about the condition and care of your truck and probably everything else you own too. Always giving the best parts and maintenance possible. Maybe thats it. It's creating bad luck. Kind of like parking the new ride way out in the lot to protect it and some jacka#& manages to find it. Maybe worry less and bash more would cure it. I know, I'm rambling.

That's exactly how I am with all my stuff. Lawn mowers, weed wacker, chainsaw, my pickup truck. Always cleaned after I'm done using it. Always going through it for preventative maintenance purposes. Funny you say cursed, my Ole lady swears my ancestors did something very wrong and wants me to go see a psychic or something because of the poop luck I have.

 

[Mr.Duke]

Really wish you'd reconsider getting rid of your Outcast.
I find your posts entertaining and educational.
You've also gone out of your way in the past to help out fellow members and saved me a headache selling/shipping me the only replacement fan I could find in existence at height of the parts shortage. If there's anything you need to help resolve the issue let me know as I feel like I still owe you one buddy.

 

[RxMonkey]

+1 You’ve helped me out as well

 

[slick2500]

@slick2500 I made the mistake of buying the dynamite drivers I thought it was a decent set then after about 6months I was again rounding screws. I watched a review on mip drivers and took the plunge thankfully then I realized just how inferior my dynamite set really were. @Paultro84 I'd deff go with the mt410 I have a buddy that has a proline pro mt and he has had a ton of driveline issues. Just figured I'd throw that out there if you havnt heard anyone talk about it yet just something to check into.

Once I have some spare cash I'm definitely getting a set of MIPs.

That was me. I honestly didn’t know that. I believe most rtr hardware is inferior to a set of stainless hw. That’s why I assumed it an upgrade and suggested replacing. If the Arrma rtr hardware is better that’s great. I was planning on buying stainless hw and I’m glad I learned this before spending on a softer metal. I do hate the rust though.

Yeah rust sucks, that is why I wish Hexscrews was still around, they used some sort of coating on their 12.9 grade hardened screws that help prevent rust.

 

[s14tat]

Mip drivers are over rated. They are still the best, but they do not last forever. My 2.0mm hex bit wore out in less than a year.