I'VE HAD IT!!!!!

[Jerry-rigged]

All hex drivers can wear out. Some do last longer than others. And some are crap out of the box.

MIP/Thorp was around when I was first in the hobby back late '80s, so they are no unknown upstart. And they have a solid reputation as some of the best tools out there, with a lot of history to back that up. While I have no doubt you can wear them out, if you get 1.5 years out of the MIP drivers, I bet you would get only a month or less out of a budget china driver.

Personally, it took me about a year to wear out a cheap china driver, and my oldest MIP still shows no wear at all. So I am not worried about wearing my MIP's out.

 

[olds97_lss]

I see OP has listed it for sale in the sale forum.

 

[Paultro84]

My Outcast is officially up for sale in the classifieds. If I don't get any reasonable offers its going ebay. Thank you to all that have helped me while I've had it. The people on here are great and knowledgeable. I'm getting out of the basher scene and going for something different.

 

[Slogrits]

MT410 still breaks. Thumbs up on mip hex drivers. You will no longer strip hex screws with them.

 

[Voltron7]

Late to the party, but I want to ask, what am I missing? I use scorpion drivers and the L-shaped ones and have not stripped one of the screws
on my v2. I have never tried a torch for threadlock as solder tip works 100%. Is it normal practice to use power tools to turn these fasteners? I just ask, because just thinking of firing up my Makita on one of my RC's ,makes me cringe about breaking and/or stripping fasteners...maybe just for removals?
Also, other than the stripped screws and the mount, what was breaking all the time? (Sorry if I missed it but I did read thru.)

Good information in this thread, so thanks OP!

 

[Rich Duperbash]

Thank you for offering to help but even with a clear head and a day to cool off I'm just done with it and gonna sell it after I replace the motor mount. I'm currently doing my homework on the Tekno MT410 and the ProLine Pro MT. Again, thanks for the help and I apologize for get angry at the truck when it was my fault. Didn't mean to offend anyone.

Just an FYI, the MT410 and PLMT are both great bashers and loads of FUN, but they too have weak spots and breakages. My upgraded Outcast is stronger overall than my upgraded MT410 IMHO, but parts are cheaper to replace. I've dropped many an F bomb in my garage during moments of frustration....Lol!!! That's part of the hobby no doubt. Just remember a tight fit doesn't guarantee you're using the best tool. MIP drivers were the best investment I ever made. Also this cheap ratcheting blue handle and cheap drill from Walmart...Lol. The blue handle allows me to apply Perfect downward pressure and gauge if a screw will strip before it happens. I use the red handled Dynamite drivers, but I replace the tips as needed. A huge thing that's helped me too is using Permatex blue gel locker on the motor mount screws and other fasteners. I only use Loctite 242 on the pinion and input grubs.

 

[Voltron7]

Just an FYI, the MT410 and PLMT are both great bashers and loads of FUN, but they too have weak spots and breakages. My upgraded Outcast is stronger overall than my upgraded MT410 IMHO, but parts are cheaper to replace. I've dropped many an F bomb in my garage during moments of frustration....Lol!!! That's part of the hobby no doubt. Just remember a tight fit doesn't guarantee you're using the best tool. MIP drivers were the best investment I ever made. Also this cheap ratcheting blue handle and cheap drill from Walmart...Lol. The blue handle allows me to apply Perfect downward pressure and gauge if a screw will strip before it happens. I use the red handled Dynamite drivers, but I replace the tips as needed. A huge thing that's helped me too is using Permatex blue gel locker on the motor mount screws and other fasteners. I only use Loctite 242 on the pinion and input grubs. View attachment 19864 View attachment 19865

+1 for the Permatex

 

[sleepy_augusto]

Sorry @Paultro84 for your frustration but I have to agree with @slick2500 get yourself a set of mip drivers and you'll b surprised how much frustration they will save you. Also get yourself a good micro screw extractor this will save you the headache of dealing with a stripped screw. With the set I have I can remove a stripped screw in less then a minute. I feel your frustration though I've been there before I used to strip screws all the time that's when I found the micro screw extractor. Then when I got my drivers I barely ever use the screw extractor now. But screws strip on pretty much every rig I've ever had so I don't think it's a brand specific thing hope after you have some time your frustration won't b as bad.

What micro screw extractor do you have? I’d love one worth a darn!

 

[VerticalChallenge]

I have to agree with the OP, my frustration trying to remove a motor mount from stripped screws wasted hours with much cursing at Arrma for excessive threadlock. Replacing broken parts from crashes is one thing, wasted time working around poor assembly decisions during RTR assembly is another. The experience leaves me leaning towards a eRevo 2, Proline MT, or 410 for my next purchase.

I read the tips here about heating up the screws to cook the threadlock, but couldn't produce a positive effect with a 40 watt soldering iron. The Ryobi screw extractors I attempted to utilize proved useless - I was unable to get any bite. I was having trouble drilling through the screws with my Craftsmen multi-purpose titanium drill bits. As a last desperate measure I got out a Dremel tool and just cut the legs off the motor mount, scuffing my plate up in the process.

 

[Rich Duperbash]

I have to agree with the OP, my frustration trying to remove a motor mount from stripped screws wasted hours with much cursing at Arrma for excessive threadlock. Replacing broken parts from crashes is one thing, wasted time working around poor assembly decisions during RTR assembly is another. The experience leaves me leaning towards a eRevo 2, Proline MT, or 410 for my next purchase.

I read the tips here about heating up the screws to cook the threadlock, but couldn't produce a positive effect with a 40 watt soldering iron. The Ryobi screw extractors I attempted to utilize proved useless - I was unable to get any bite. I was having trouble drilling through the screws with my Craftsmen multi-purpose titanium drill bits. As a last desperate measure I got out a Dremel tool and just cut the legs off the motor mount, scuffing my plate up in the process.

View attachment 19869 View attachment 19870 View attachment 19871

I've had to drill off a motor mount screw on my brand new V2 Kraton quite awhile back. Sometimes a pen torch or other flame is required to melt threadlock. Higher rated irons will work, but you have to see the locker start smoking first. You can usually smell when it's burning up. It's frustrating to have to deal with no doubt, but not unsurmountable with the right tools.

 

[ABRedneck]

I haven't read most, skipping to the end...
So sorry if I'm redundant... (hey, I can call myself that, not you! Lol!)

My Outcast would last for a few minutes before I broke it...
The better I got driving, the less I broke...
*not criticizing your driving, just my driving...

Buying the RC screw set made worrying dropping a screw, or stripping a screw a thing of the past...
Can't find it, can't turn it, grab a new one!

I use the same lil power driver, and the same blue handle Hex bits...
I also bought a set of round end Bondhus (or equivalent) which I have found very handy to loosen the odd screw that I can't get straight on to...

If your going to keep having trouble, there are left hand drill bits available.
*No, it's not a muffler bearing joke, lol!

Finally...
Paul, keep your OutCast...
It'll get better!
RJP

 

[Paultro84]

I haven't read most, skipping to the end...
So sorry if I'm redundant... (hey, I can call myself that, not you! Lol!)

My Outcast would last for a few minutes before I broke it...
The better I got driving, the less I broke...
*not criticizing your driving, just my driving...

Buying the RC screw set made worrying dropping a screw, or stripping a screw a thing of the past...
Can't find it, can't turn it, grab a new one!

I use the same lil power driver, and the same blue handle Hex bits...
I also bought a set of round end Bondhus (or equivalent) which I have found very handy to loosen the odd screw that I can't get straight on to...

If your going to keep having trouble, there are left hand drill bits available.
*No, it's not a muffler bearing joke, lol!

Finally...
Paul, keep your OutCast...
It'll get better!
RJP

I appreciate the kind words. And the muffler joke. Haha I got my ole lady good once telling her to check her blinker fluid. Anyway, I'm thinking the Outcast and all basher trucks just aren't for me. If the Outcast was a decent racer I'd keep it but the wheel base is just to short for that. Depending on how much I get for it will determine what I buy next. No matter what I buy, I'm going to get a set of M.I.P bits as all most everyone says they're top notch.

 

[Cobluez]

I'm done with this P.O.S Outcast!!!! How do people put these through so much more abuse than me, but mine won't hold up!?!?!? Can't even get a full run out of ******* thing!!! Trying to get the center diff out and ALL the screw heads stripped out that go in to the metal motor mount!!!! I used blue loctite and heated the dam things up with a torch BEFORE I even tried to loosen them. Snapped 2 Allen wrenches!!! Now I have to drill them out and HOPE I don't **** up the motor mount. If i didn't have soooo much money invested in to this thing I'd throw it right in the ******* dumpster!!!! As soon as I get it back to 100% it's going on Ebay. Tekno MT410 here I come!!! Or do I dare say it, maybe even a E-Revo 2.0. I used to love this thing but it's just not enjoyable anymore. 10 hours working on it for what!?!?! A 10 minute joy ride?? Try and take the best care of it. Always fix what breaks and always cleaning it. POINTLESS!!!!!

I'm done with this P.O.S Outcast!!!! How do people put these through so much more abuse than me, but mine won't hold up!?!?!? Can't even get a full run out of ******* thing!!! Trying to get the center diff out and ALL the screw heads stripped out that go in to the metal motor mount!!!! I used blue loctite and heated the dam things up with a torch BEFORE I even tried to loosen them. Snapped 2 Allen wrenches!!! Now I have to drill them out and HOPE I don't **** up the motor mount. If i didn't have soooo much money invested in to this thing I'd throw it right in the ******* dumpster!!!! As soon as I get it back to 100% it's going on Ebay. Tekno MT410 here I come!!! Or do I dare say it, maybe even a E-Revo 2.0. I used to love this thing but it's just not enjoyable anymore. 10 hours working on it for what!?!?! A 10 minute joy ride?? Try and take the best care of it. Always fix what breaks and always cleaning it. POINTLESS!!!!!

I absolutely abuse my Kraton every time I take it out and I've got to say I have had the fewest incidence of having to make "The walk of shame" when I'm done other than running my batteries out I've only had to carry it home a cpl times and those were due to complete malice on my part. I don't spend the money and time to have a "pretty" truck that I'm afraid of scuffing the body etc. Mine ain't pretty but hell neither am I lol when it's time for a shiny new toy it will be an ARRMA!!

 

[Rpmspeedyblue]

Oh I wasn't giving you poop. I appreciate what you said. I'll take your advice and sleep on it. This hobby is supposed to be my stress relief and I guess I'm just SUPER disappointed and it's just not fun anyore with this truck. Work all day and just wanna come home, Crack open a beer, fire up a lefty and run my r/c. But now I think to myself, I don't wanna break it and have to order parts and wait for them to come in and then work on it for 2 days just so i can use it for 10-20 minutes. So I'll just leave it on the shelf. I used to look forward to using it.

I'm done with this P.O.S Outcast!!!! How do people put these through so much more abuse than me, but mine won't hold up!?!?!? Can't even get a full run out of ******* thing!!! Trying to get the center diff out and ALL the screw heads stripped out that go in to the metal motor mount!!!! I used blue loctite and heated the dam things up with a torch BEFORE I even tried to loosen them. Snapped 2 Allen wrenches!!! Now I have to drill them out and HOPE I don't **** up the motor mount. If i didn't have soooo much money invested in to this thing I'd throw it right in the ******* dumpster!!!! As soon as I get it back to 100% it's going on Ebay. Tekno MT410 here I come!!! Or do I dare say it, maybe even a E-Revo 2.0. I used to love this thing but it's just not enjoyable anymore. 10 hours working on it for what!?!?! A 10 minute joy ride?? Try and take the best care of it. Always fix what breaks and always cleaning it. POINTLESS!!!!!

I feel your grief! Just the other day I striped out one of the hex screws and took me over a hour to get the sob screw out. I ended up using an easy out. Hey you’re right about RC’s should be fun and a relaxing hobby. It gets very frustrating when poop doesn’t work out as smoothly as it should. I usually try to take a break from it and Change up on a different rc. Matter of fact I bought a speed boat just to change it up. RC’s are fun and challenging at times.

 

[slick2500]

@Rpmspeedyblue Didn't you smoke something in that boat?
And do I see a Vaterra V100 in the back there?

 

[Rpmspeedyblue]

@Rpmspeedyblue Didn't you smoke something in that boat?
And do I see a Vaterra V100 in the back there?

Lol! Yeah, motor was over heating because my drive shaft came loose and was close to shore and tried to drive it back in, which I did. I checked it out relubed with marine grease and tighten it up. Ran it but not to far just to see if I damaged anything. I lucked out all is good. I ended up buying a retriever boat so if the boat get stuck in the middle of the lake I will have a way to bring it back without heating up the motor. Fast and fun boat to run!

 

[Rpmspeedyblue]

@Rpmspeedyblue Didn't you smoke something in that boat?
And do I see a Vaterra V100 in the back there?

@Rpmspeedyblue Didn't you smoke something in that boat?
And do I see a Vaterra V100 in the back there?

no it’s my Outcast, Senton, Hpi buggy and the thunder tiger roller.

 

[Hye]

That was directed at the guy who suggested and said that stainless steel is stronger.


I'd go Tekno over the Proline Pro Mt from what I have heard it's well worth it. Plus kits are so much fun to put together.

Fun to put together with the right tools. Can be more frustrating than what he is experiencing at the moment with tools that strip srcews. Tekno is great. I own two. Still, tekno can break as well.

 

[Rpmspeedyblue]

Fun to put together with the right tools. Can be more frustrating than what he is experiencing at the moment with tools that strip srcews. Tekno is great. I own two. Still, tekno can break as well.

RC’s do Break and will always have some down time for fixing and modifications. I’m a firm believer in having several RC’s

 

[joostin420]

I feel your grief! Just the other day I striped out one of the hex screws and took me over a hour to get the sob screw out. I ended up using an easy out. Hey you’re right about RC’s should be fun and a relaxing hobby. It gets very frustrating when poop doesn’t work out as smoothly as it should. I usually try to take a break from it and Change up on a different rc. Matter of fact I bought a speed boat just to change it up. RC’s are fun and challenging at times.

Nice boat now I have to pull out the boats and get wrenching and tune them up. Didn’t run them last year. The joker and Harley