Is this stuff any good?

[slick2500]

Damn, now that's crazy impressive man. I'd heard that it was great for muffler repairs and stuff like that. Would never have thought "glue" could work for something like that. Top notch.

He probably used traditional JB Weld which is completely different from the JB Weld epoxy posted above. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick

 

[Tex Koder]

That printer bed looks enormous. What are you rocking?

It's 400mm x 400mm , modded Ender 3 v2

Big enough to print a whole new 4S XLWB chassis

 

[gotnitro]

I crashed a KZ 750 years ago and bent the shift rod and cracked a 4 inch chunk out of the bottom left corner of the case. I found the chunk of broken cast aluminum spinning around on the bent shift shaft. I pulled the motor, degreased and cleaned the damaged area and “glued” it back together with JB Weld while building up the area in the process. After it hardened I drilled the hole for the shaft and machined out the area for the oil seal. That was over 25 years ago and the fix held and didn’t even weep oil! I haven’t ridden that bike in a freaking decade, but it’s still in my barn in running condition and it doesn’t have a puddle underneath it. That experience sold me hook, line and sinker on JB Weld.

If JB weld were to travel to an alternate dimension in which there was another JB weld and they both fought, they would both win.

 

[Rowdyray]

I crashed a KZ 750 years ago and bent the shift rod and cracked a 4 inch chunk out of the bottom left corner of the case. I found the chunk of broken cast aluminum spinning around on the bent shift shaft. I pulled the motor, degreased and cleaned the damaged area and “glued” it back together with JB Weld while building up the area in the process. After it hardened I drilled the hole for the shaft and machined out the area for the oil seal. That was over 25 years ago and the fix held and didn’t even weep oil! I haven’t ridden that bike in a freaking decade, but it’s still in my barn in running condition and it doesn’t have a puddle underneath it. That experience sold me hook, line and sinker on JB Weld.

About 25 years ago, I was given an '81 Suzuki GS1100 that was laid down in a traffic jam. Rear ended a car and fell over on the left side. Bent the forks and a rock or something put a 1/4'' sized hole in the left cover. Spent a pretty penny tracking down a used set of forks and put new seals in. Being the cheap SOB I am, I didn't want to spend the money on a cover. Just wanted to ride. JB Welded the hole. Rode it for over 10 years. It sat in the shed for over 10 years because of carb issues I could never figure out. Shame. Loved that bike. Sold it back in August. The motor is still highly sought after. But, it never leaked a drop of oil!

JB Weld has it's place. It's great for that fix in certain situations. Used it many times. Just haven't found one in the RC realm.

 

[Diem Turner]

He probably used traditional JB Weld which is completely different from the JB Weld epoxy posted above. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick

Yeah, no I figured he was using the traditional steel infused compound. Had he used plastic epoxy on an engine block I would have suggested he stop sniffing the glue.

 

[dure16]

It's 400mm x 400mm , modded Ender 3 v2

Big enough to print a whole new 4S XLWB chassis

Wow! That’s a lot of real estate. I may have to do something similar.

I’m starting to outgrow my Prusa Mini and their other products are either outdated or too expensive.

 

[Hammer Down]

If JB weld were to travel to an alternate dimension in which there was another JB weld and they both fought, they would both win.

.

 

[Rowdyray]

Yeah, no I figured he was using the traditional steel infused compound. Had he used plastic epoxy on an engine block I would have suggested he stop sniffing the glue.

I'm sure he did as I did too. But, I've used a number of epoxies for other repairs. Again, it works great for certain things. Just not compatible with the plastics used in RCs.

 

[slick2500]

Yeah, no I figured he was using the traditional steel infused compound. Had he used plastic epoxy on an engine block I would have suggested he stop sniffing the glue.

Sorry I was a little loopy when I posted that.

 

[Diem Turner]

I'm sure he did as I did too. But, I've used a number of epoxies for other repairs. Again, it works great for certain things. Just not compatible with the plastics used in RCs.

Yeah. With few exceptions, always use the correct compound for any particular use case because...

Sorry I was a little loopy when I posted that.

All good man, no harm no foul.

 

[Tex Koder]

Wow! That’s a lot of real estate. I may have to do something similar.

I’m starting to outgrow my Prusa Mini and their other products are either outdated or too expensive.

If you like to tinker..

Look into getting a Ender 3 v2 and add the Ender Extender 400XL Kit > https://enderextender.com/

or if you prefer something all put together already.. Look at the https://www.creality.com/products/c...4931ac-1863-4b1a-85b5-def0896847c8.header_1.1

 

[dure16]

If you like to tinker..

Look into getting a Ender 3 v2 and add the Ender Extender 400XL Kit > https://enderextender.com/

or if you prefer something all put together already.. Look at the https://www.creality.com/products/c...4931ac-1863-4b1a-85b5-def0896847c8.header_1.1

How frustrating is it to make/keep a 400mm bed level?

 

[Tex Koder]

How frustrating is it to make/keep a 400mm bed level?

I used the silicone feet mod ,instead of using springs.. So it holds it's adjustment much better.
You should do it on all printers ,imo.

 

[Rowdyray]

Yeah. With few exceptions, always use the correct compound for any particular use case because...
View attachment 259565

All good man, no harm no foul.

Exactly. I have glues and epoxies for all sorts of situations. I'm a cheapskate. No, I don't buy cheap things and expect them to last. I find quality items that need a little help and spend less than anyone else. Lol. Have a ton of examples.

Glues or epoxies have their place. They can even save the day. But, they don't work with all materials.

 

[SrC]

While I haven't used their plastic weld, I've used their steel reinforced epoxy and it's fantastic so, I'd think that this should also work well. I guess it would depend on what you plan to use it for. I've used this stuff in combination with a thin piece of carbon fiber to glue a sun gear that broke in half inside my diff and it held without issue until the repair part arrived. Granted, I didn't subject it to drag launches but for normal use, it held without issue. Quality stuff.
View attachment 259465

Yeah I feel it is among the best Hobby grade Epoxies out there. I used it to put a Fuel pressure fitting onto 2 Upgrade Alloy Pipe's on my Nitro rigs. Never broke off. 20+ years later. Using this stuff for many things for years now. 2 part Epoxies are the strongest. "Project Farm" did a test on many of them.
But it will NOT fix composite RC plastics of any type. At least for high stressed parts.

 

[Diem Turner]

Yeah I feel it is among the best Hobby grade Epoxies out there. I used it to put a Fuel pressure fitting onto 2 Upgrade Alloy Pipe's on my Nitro rigs. Never broke off. 20+ years later Using this stuff for many things for years now. 2 part Epoxies are the strongest. "Project Farm" did a test on many of them.
But it will NOT fix composite RC plastics of any type. At least for high stressed parts.

Yeah, I wouldn't think so.

I saw this stuff here at the hardware store a year or two ago and it, peripherally, caught my attention. Much like the rest of you lot, I lean towards skepticism...particularly any product that has the whiff of infomercial about it. But admittedly, I've been tempted to try this stuff out. Essentially it's CA with some sort of powder that you apply in alternating layers (for all I know they've just repackaged the old CA/baking soda trick and selling it for a few bucks more, but I'd have to buy it to find out).

Of course the promotional material makes it look all great and everything (why wouldn't it, right?) but I've been watching some independent testers performing various tests to examine the performance of this stuff...and it still looks good. It doesn't seem to matter which materials are used (be it the same material or two completely different ones like gluing metal to wood and other such stuff). When gluing plastics, it does seem to create a "weld" that is stronger than the surrounding material which will fail before the weld seam does (much like when you weld metal together, although no actual material bonding takes place). This is just a brief video demonstrating the seam strength of two conjoined plastic strips. I've been trying to find any videos in English, but haven't had much luck so far.
FWIW, Germany is a nanny state consisting of people who are more into regulations than God...consumer protection is a really big deal here and it's rather unlikely that snake oil is being sold in one of the nation's largest hardware stores in such a brash manner. Granted, perhaps they're using the "hiding in plain sight" technique, but I have my doubts about that simply based on the way Germany operates.

Sorry for the long ramble, here's the short demo vid. Looking at it's properties, it does make me wonder about its applicability on RC parts. It doesn't make the prettiest repairs, but they do appear to be pretty robust.

 

[Diem Turner]

Yeah, I wouldn't think so.

I saw this stuff here at the hardware store a year or two ago and it, peripherally, caught my attention. Much like the rest of you lot, I lean towards skepticism...particularly any product that has the whiff of infomercial about it. But admittedly, I've been tempted to try this stuff out. Essentially it's CA with some sort of powder that you apply in alternating layers (for all I know they've just repackaged the old CA/baking soda trick and selling it for a few bucks more, but I'd have to buy it to find out).

Of course the promotional material makes it look all great and everything (why wouldn't it, right?) but I've been watching some independent testers performing various tests to examine the performance of this stuff...and it still looks good. It doesn't seem to matter which materials are used (be it the same material or two completely different ones like gluing metal to wood and other such stuff). When gluing plastics, it does seem to create a "weld" that is stronger than the surrounding material which will fail before the weld seam does (much like when you weld metal together, although no actual material bonding takes place). This is just a brief video demonstrating the seam strength of two conjoined plastic strips. I've been trying to find any videos in English, but haven't had much luck so far.
FWIW, Germany is a nanny state consisting of people who are more into regulations than God...consumer protection is a really big deal here and it's rather unlikely that snake oil is being sold in one of the nation's largest hardware stores in such a brash manner. Granted, perhaps they're using the "hiding in plain sight" technique, but I have my doubts about that simply based on the way Germany operates.

Sorry for the long ramble, here's the short demo vid. Looking at it's properties, it does make me wonder about its applicability on RC parts. It doesn't make the prettiest repairs, but they do appear to be pretty robust.

Update: Went to the hardware store today and grabbed a pack of this stuff. The granulate definitely is not baking soda. Under magnification they're clear little pellets of varying size (kind of like the fine sand you find in the Carribean) and looks somewhat similar to glas, but it definitely isn't. I'm definitely curious to test this stuff out. I may need to break something...

 

[hobo]

I've used everything in the world to try and fix rc parts in the past your better of just getting a new part

 

[Diem Turner]

I've used everything in the world to try and fix rc parts in the past your better of just getting a new part

Oh trust me, I'm of the same opinion. Still had to try it out.

 

[Rowdyray]

Update: Went to the hardware store today and grabbed a pack of this stuff. The granulate definitely is not baking soda. Under magnification they're clear little pellets of varying size (kind of like the fine sand you find in the Carribean) and looks somewhat similar to glas, but it definitely isn't. I'm definitely curious to test this stuff out. I may need to break something...

I know it's not baking soda. There was a company that held the patent for years. Forget the name. Dad had me find him some recently. Didn't know this existed.

He was a TV Radio repairman for years. Remember the plastic knobs on the old TVs you rotated to change channels? They broke. A lot. He'd rebuild the missing piece with the stuff. Lasted for years.