I just came across this what do you guys think? I think it might be useless to use on pins, or anything that is bare metal.
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Was asking because i don't run on water. The only time i did is wheni changed all the bearings on one of my trucks to stainless and already half of them have failed or went very bad. I tried torun my mojave on regreased bearings and the ones on my rear diff output bearings the inner race wasnt turning. At that point i decided im not going to run any of my rcs on snow ever. I cant dry eveything. The hard to reach screws and things you cant reach like hinge pins will all rust out unless you blast the whole vehicle with petroleum lubricant. Gears will also rust no matter what. Droplets of water will remain on some of the teeth. I ran on slightly wet conditions last year with my kraton exb and 4s everything on the rear started to severely rust out. I thought it was already dry from running on dry for a while. Was wrong.It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?
I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces
The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.
I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.
Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.
IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated.
True but i have some form of OCD. If i see something not right it stresses me out and i end up tearing everything up for that one thing. The best rruck to use in the snow would be my Neros because of the insane ground clearence they have but they are also a very valuable vehicle. Eitherway my notorious was my snow truck for 2 years. I need to change the esc and the body was almost gkne on year 1 because the lexan is thick and reinforcements does nothing to it. While my exb kraton was going strong on its 4th year before it was junked by accident.I completely understand. It’s never stopped me. Eventually it gets lubed. But never had any problems. I personally love the snow. PIA to dry? Yes. But easier than the dirty Typhon full of mud!
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Ha.... just ordered this today. I play in the snow all the time so I figured it would help keep things in working order.CorrosionX
safe on electronics also. Kinda pricey but sooo worth it, epecially on expensive electronics that would be pricey to replace. I cover my rx, take servo apart and cover the circuit board. I do this to all my vehicles. No issues at all. It’s good stuff.
Check it out!
Yup. Its good stuff!Ha.... just ordered this today. I play in the snow all the time so I figured it would help keep things in working order.
This is exactly what I use and it’s awesomeCorrosionX
safe on electronics also. Kinda pricey but sooo worth it, epecially on expensive electronics that would be pricey to replace. I cover my rx, take servo apart and cover the circuit board. I do this to all my vehicles. No issues at all. It’s good stuff.
Check it out!
When I run my rig in the snow, I take it in and blow dry it hard core. I remove the tires, body . Dry it off with a cloth. I use medical wipes . I blow it off again. Then I wipe it down more with the pink stuff. Wipe it clean then, lube the bearings with rust resist. I give it a wipe and, Badda bing, Badda boom. Done.It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?
I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces
The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.
I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.
Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.
IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated
And attract dirt on everything. I have this and i berely use it, it also kills bearings if the bearings are dirty on the outside it loosens the dirt and makes it go inside the bearing and when you spin the wheels it makes loud crunching sounds and after a few runs the bearings are killed or very bumpy. The only time i ever use this product is when i tear down the vehicle and the bearings to clean them
And attract dirt on everything. I have this and i berely use it, it also kills bearings if the bearings are dirty on the outside it loosens the dirt and makes it go inside the bearing and when you spin the wheels it makes loud crunching sounds and after a few runs the bearings are killed or very bumpy. The only time i ever use this product is when i tear down the vehicle and the bearings to clean them
Theres specific screws that arrma uses like the wing mount screws, steering posts. Steering bushing pivots, hidden screws ect ectI mean the only thing to really rust on an RC is the screws. Just throw it away and grab one of the thousands that are laying in your tool box and replace it. Most of an RC is plastic and aluminum.
People IRL don't give a crap about rust, only people that see it in pictures on a forum complain lolol. You all know who you are
Also bearings are cheap, toss it and drop in a new one!!
Life hack.... Replace it with brand new....
Not had a steering rack post rustout on a single vehicle, bushing are brass pivots are stainless, hidden screws are still just screws to replace. Nothing is hidden when you rip down RC's for maintenance. Replace as needed still stands as a wonderful solution. And its cheap if you have to buy but, most of us have so much crap its free sitting in our box waiting to be used.Theres specific screws that arrma uses like the wing mount screws, steering posts. Steering bushing pivots, hidden screws ect ect
+1It looked like the blade was blued which inhibits rust. Not sure why he did that?
I've used vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner to remove rust, but I don't "think" it inhibits rust? I certainly wouldn't use it on bearing or critical surfaces
The best way to keep things moving smoothly is to keep them lubricated. A very thin coat of oil on parts goes a long ways. Also WD40 is made for this. The WD means Water Displacement. It's not a replacement for proper maintenance, but it helps clean out the water.
I've also been meaning to try FogLube on my gears. It's target market is firearms (pun intended) and it's baked into the material, which means it can't fly off like liquids. Lubing your gears when they are turning 20,000 RPM isn't very effective.
Realistically if you are not taking your car swimming, any surface rust in mating surfaces will be gone once you run it.
IMHO the key is to keep the clean and lubricated.
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