Front Wheels ballooning Granite

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Austin, Texas
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
Hello everyone, I need yalls guy help asap I just changed the Spur gear bc it was completely trashed and the same thing with the pinion too. So I replaced them thinking it would fix this whole front wheel ballooning issue and it seems like it hasn't. Does anyone have any idea what it could be. By the way I just made this all wheel drive and it has a 3s Zeee battery. Im I just tripping or is this completely normal? TIA :)


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You need thicker center differential fluid.
WOW that makes a lot more sense... I order this front diff. from a 3rd party from amazon so I have no clue what fluid it has, but I do have 10k CST. I will def that. Thank you!
 
Don’t these not have a center diff? If it’s the setup I’m thinking it is-tighten up the slipper clutch..
its just a front and rear on the granite.

I don’t know if those things have a CD but I do know that if it was a slipper problem, there would be no power getting out down to make the front balloon.
Right. I was undoing the screws to open the diff. and stripped the screw smh now I got to find a way to get it out. I have MIP bits too. I think I could use heat to make it way easier on me.
 
That should only allow “differential” action left to right on that specific axle (both front wheels), and won’t have anything at all to do with splitting the power between front axle, and rear.. I assumed the slipper clutch was a low hp solution for the lack of a center diff in this smaller 4x4 platform, and was used to allow “slip” between the front, and rear axles to achieve roughly the same result as a center diff. The only other reason for it would be to literally slip between the motor, and BOTH front and rear drive axles the way a nitro clutch works… The reason for that in a nitro application is so that the motor can idle without shutting off due to being locked to the driveline. That isn’t required with an electric motor, so I legitimately can’t understand why it would be designed that way..🤷🏻‍♂️

I don’t know if those things have a CD but I do know that if it was a slipper problem, there would be no power getting out down to make the front balloon.

So let me preface this by clearly stating that I do not own a granite, nor do I have one in front of me, but after my last reply I decided to go check for an exploded view of the driveline. Perhaps someone can explain to me how this specific “slipper clutch” (ball diff with friction materials instead of balls used to differentiate the power between the two output shafts [in this case FRONT, and REAR]) doesn’t control the ratio of power split between the front axle(s), and rear axle(s)…. That’s exactly what it’s there for. Simply tightening the adjustment should bring it closer to 50:50, or the same result as adding thicker diff fluid to a more common (these days) fluid filled CENTER differential.

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If I’m reading this wrong, PLEASE let me know… 🍺
 
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Yep-tighten the slipper. It absolutely works as I explained. Just went over it 5 times lol.. if the spur was just changed, along with the pinion-as stated in the OP, then the slipper was completely disassembled to do so. The rear output has (3) steels, and (2) frictions, and the front output has (2) steels, and (1) friction. Tighten the preload screw in the center for more preload. May take a few attempts to dial it in to where you want it. Have fun! 🤙🍺
 
Yep-tighten the slipper. It absolutely works as I explained. Just went over it 5 times lol.. if the spur was just changed, along with the pinion-as stated in the OP, then the slipper was completely disassembled to do so. The rear output has (3) steels, and (2) frictions, and the front output has (2) steels, and (1) friction. Tighten the preload screw in the center for more preload. May take a few attempts to dial it in to where you want it. Have fun! 🤙🍺
Thank you for this! I will try to tight the slipper clutch and go from there.
 
Thank you for this! I will try to tight the slipper clutch and go from there.
No problem at all buddy-like I say; may take a few attempts to get it where you want it. It’s a “fine tuning” adjustment, and not full loose, or full tight operation. You want it to arrive in a happy medium between ballooning the front tires as shown in your photo, and nonstop wheelie machine if that makes sense.. With factory tires, no taping, or strung up modifications to them, you will never fully get rid of ballooning at speed as most ALL rubber tires are gonna grow to a degree no matter what, but you will be able to calm it down to where it’s supposed to be driven. 🤙
 
No problem at all buddy-like I say; may take a few attempts to get it where you want it. It’s a “fine tuning” adjustment, and not full loose, or full tight operation. You want it to arrive in a happy medium between ballooning the front tires as shown in your photo, and nonstop wheelie machine if that makes sense.. With factory tires, no taping, or strung up modifications to them, you will never fully get rid of ballooning at speed as most ALL rubber tires are gonna grow to a degree no matter what, but you will be able to calm it down to where it’s supposed to be driven. 🤙
Thank you I’m new to this hobby :) and its a big learning curve and I’m slowly getting the hang of things.
 
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