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Good point about possibly not needing them, nothing is holding it in the bearing race. So slightest resistance/misalignment while installing causes them to become damaged. I was thinking maybe gluing it to the race when you know you need it installed?You shouldn’t bend anything installing a shim. They go between the diff case and the diff housing in the bearing race. If you are bending them, you might not need them.
If they are so tight that you can’t insert them without them bending then they are not needed.I am looking for assistance/tips as to how to successfully intall the diff with a shim without bending/ruining the shim.
I have not been very successsful, thus reaching out .
No, don’t glue them. Ever. Dry fit the diff and check the play between the pinion and crown gear. All diff housings have different tolerances. Sometimes you need a couple of shims, sometimes you need none. The gear interface needs to be small, but not tight. Like the center motor pinion to spur clearance, but to a somewhat lesser tolerance.Good point about possibly not needing them, nothing is holding it in the bearing race. So slightest resistance/misalignment while installing causes them to become damaged. I was thinking maybe gluing it to the race when you know you need it installed?
That video explains the process well, but I believe he actually did a terrible job of considering the pinion/crown mesh. It was clearly too tight. When mine are done they turn much more smoothly than that. His sounded “crunchy” and looked way more difficult to rotate. The gears definitely seemed to be binding a bit, and he didn’t spin a full rotation.This is a quick video, but is this what you see when you put yours together? Also, I'm pretty sure you shouldn't glue it in there. If you have no lateral movement when the diff is back in the housing, then you don't need shims.
^ ThisIf they are so tight that you can’t insert them without them bending then they are not needed.
I feel your pain because I’ve bent a few myself while shimming. In particular, when putting the gearbox cover back on…..that’s when I tend to bend them.I am looking for assistance/tips as to how to successfully intall the diff with a shim without bending/ruining the shim.
I have not been very successsful, thus reaching out .
Great point. The only way to truly see that input gear mesh is to remove the gearbox and look underneath.Shimming the input pinion coul still be needed though.
Even if you have no side to side play the teeth could be still making contact on just the tips, this will also break teeth, but you can not feel it as the lash is minimal.
I have had instances where I shimmed the input pinion inwards, and then having to shim the diff itself towards the left (so adding a shim on the RIGHT)
Always check for as much tooth on tooth contact as possible.
Thats why I usually remove the bulkhead from the chassis, that way I can look into the housing from below, and ensure the pinion and diff gear have as much contact as possible.
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