Anyone disappointed with their turning radius?

[SrC]

I found that those tiny bellcrank bearings are prone to seizing often. And given the amount of work it takes to replace them, i happily put the bushings back in there.

Your doin something wrong there.
BB's SEIZING UP???? Often?
I call BS!
9 6s rigs here. Not one ever seized up. You obviously run in the wet or get your Belcrank all wet if you hose it ?? The only way these specific low rotating/ minimally wearing BB's get trashed. The rubber sealed ones. If using shielded ones , even worse.
I imagine you don't wrench much at all or do maintenance. Do ya.
Oilite Bushings already have and develope even more slop.
Hey what works for you.

 

[SrC]

Yea maybe the servo saver. I asked Basher Queen whats the deal as I can only crank it down so much and then it binds. I wonder how much my open diff in the rear helps, kinda want the lsd. They are rpm control arms my bad. Well if others had good luck with these DS's then I should be able to dial it in. Ordered new knuckles today as both cross threaded as I put them together, and I was careful. I love the power slide, like drifting really. I can get 30 degrees tops at dead stop on grass.

Arrma originally had the Rear EXB Diff setup as an open one. Now they just do all 3 diffs as LSD, Easier and cheaper to produce.... and make you buy the Open Shim Option kit to make it an open one.
It steers better this way, when Open at the rear.

 

[KnowAir]

Your doin something wrong there.
BB's SEIZING UP???? Often?
I call BS!
9 6s rigs here. Not one ever seized up. You obviously run in the wet or get your Belcrank all wet if you hose it ?? The only way these specific low rotating/ minimally wearing BB's get trashed. The rubber sealed ones. If using shielded ones , even worse.
I imagine you don't wrench much at all or do maintenance. Do ya.
Oilite Bushings already have and develope even more slop.
Hey what works for you.

I understand, you enjoy working on them as much as running them.. not me. I thought sloppy bushings was what created the slop in my Arrma's steering, so I put bearings in the steering. Nope, still sloppy. Turns out, it's just how Arrma's are. I still have the bearings in them since I didn't keep track of the bushings.. next time I need to replace the bearings, I'll be buying the bushings instead.. I find that the Arrma's are just sloppy all around. No big deal since they're bashers but, by comparison, my Xray and Tekno's are just soo much tighter overall. Apples to oranges I suppose. Even TRX 6 and 8s rigs are tighter than my Arrma's

 

[SrC]

Agree completely about the loose "Fit". Whether BB's or Brass bushings. Yet there is slop all over the OE Belcrank anyway. Even with some Upgrade ones, along with other fitment issues.
But BB's absolutely make the steering better IMHO. What many complain about. The steering. Many are quick to upgrade the Belcrank not even considering running 4 BB's instead at first. And Upgrade Belcranks also use BB's anyway.
The brass bushings tend to oval out at the I.D. Hence adding insult to injury . When the Brass ones wear out, what would you rather replace them with, BB's or just Bushings again??? I think the answer is obvious. I Tried both ways. I'm surprised to hear that the BB's are no better than the Bushings, all these years later. I just disagree, that's all. This Steering belcrank is an old design.
Not coming with BB's was always one part of the problem, not the solution IMHO.
Hey what works for you.

 

[KnowAir]

Agree completely about the loose "Fit". Whether BB's or Brass bushings. Yet there is slop all over the OE Belcrank anyway. Even with some Upgrade ones, along with other fitment issues.
But BB's absolutely make the steering better IMHO. What many complain about. The steering. Many are quick to upgrade the Belcrank not even considering running 4 BB's instead at first. And Upgrade Belcranks also use BB's anyway.
The brass bushings tend to oval out at the I.D. Hence adding insult to injury . When the Brass ones wear out, what would you rather replace them with, BB's or just Bushings again??? I think the answer is obvious. I Tried both ways. I'm surprised to hear that the BB's are no better than the Bushings, all these years later. I just disagree, that's all. This Steering belcrank is an old design.
Not coming with BB's was always one part of the problem, not the solution IMHO.
Hey what works for you.

I agree that bearings are better, certainly smoother, and don't wear like the bushings. My issue is two fold, firstly is that I don't perform maintenance like I should. Secondly, I like snow bashing and occasionally mud..no bueno for bearings. Sealed certainly doesn't mean waterproof, LOL.
I guess I'd rather have worn bushings than seized bearings

 

[SrC]

Got ya.
Water on the chassis will demolish the Lower belcrank BB's easily and quickly. I open mine up and use a Marine WP grease out the gate. One and done. But I rarely if ever get my rigs wet at all. I get it.
I would source SS variant BB's, if I were you, and lube them well if you rarely, if ever, service that belcrank area.

 

[KnowAir]

Got ya.
Water on the chassis will demolish the Lower belcrank BB's easily and quickly. I open mine up and use a Marine WP grease out the gate. One and done. But I rarely if ever get my rigs wet at all. I get it.
I would source SS variant BB's, if I were you, and lube them well if you rarely, if ever, service that belcrank area.

Good call, SS bearings, hadn't thought of that. I often do pull seals and put grease into bearings when new before installing, unfortunately those tiny bellcrank BB's are simply too small for my aging eyes and hands to finesse. Thanks for the great intel

 

[SrC]

Will admit they are very tiny BB's.
I need to use a fresh Exacto #11 blade to remove both rubber seals. It is tedious. I get it.
But one and done. These BB's barely rotate 60-70 Degrees of its full rotation back and forth. They won't wear out like other BB's throughout the chassis. And there is little if any radial loads placed on them, which usually gets the best of most high speed rotating BB's.
Water and dirt gets the best of the 2 bottom ones, usually not the top ones. Packing them well with a WP grease is one great option. Preventitive maintenance. I agree it is not an area we all like wrenching on. So when I do tear down this area, I go the extra mile with these 4 Steering BB's.

 

[Jamr]

The Fireteam's radius is bad. I have not looked into how to improve it.

 

[turn2burn]

Those bb's in the bellcrank are cheep as chips and they really smothed out steering. Iv gotten the front end as tight as one could I think. Given the money iv spent on this thing I so wish I went with a tekno. It seem like a constant stream of replacing I'll Designed stuff or upgrades. I went back and checked servo saver and it's loose. Basher queen said I needed the old servo saver posts that were round at the bottom. And on grass it makes it harder. I had a bimmer with bushings as it carried the load better.

I order fast eddy bbs as the cheapos I got are already getting wobbly which I can't understand as stainless doesn't rust. Rubber seals don't seem to keep out water both the stock arma ones and the replacements. I have no idea how anyone can put back the seals. Back in the day there was this stuff called banana lube that made a coating over the bearing sealing it even more.
At the end of the day I have to remember sending this thing flying and crashing and having it not break is something hardly any rc car can. I wonder if the slop aids in its durability.

 

[SirCrashALot]

Your doin something wrong there.
BB's SEIZING UP???? Often?
I call BS!
9 6s rigs here. Not one ever seized up. You obviously run in the wet or get your Belcrank all wet if you hose it ?? The only way these specific low rotating/ minimally wearing BB's get trashed. The rubber sealed ones. If using shielded ones , even worse.
I imagine you don't wrench much at all or do maintenance. Do ya.
Oilite Bushings already have and develope even more slop.
Hey what works for you.

Exactly. My nearest bash spot is a beach. I have to hose it down afterwards to rinse the salt off.
Afterwards i always spray all my bearings and moving metal parts with silicone spray. But those in the bellcrank are hard to reach.
I do plenty of maintenance. I check everything for free movement and worn bearings after every run and clean up. The electronics can handle the washing and drying just fine. Only problem i had was with the receiver. I killed one. I couldn't get the box to close right. I eventually found out that it was due to using screws that were too long. Haven't had a problem since.

 

[parcou]

The Fireteam's radius is bad. I have not looked into how to improve it.

Yep...

Follow the same videos posted here and add some washers/shims to the servo saver.

 

[slick2500]

Of all my 6s Arrma vehicles the only one that has a "bad" turning radius is the one that has the Amazon cheapo servo. My other 6s cars run Savox and Bluebird servos, with the stock bellcrank and the old V1 adjustable servo saver tube with a dab of red thread lock on the nut. https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-...cpdVFrMyKTsi1I6okYxVpdilYdsroFghoCDzIQAvD_BwE

And one has the Hot Racing adjustable servo saver tube.

 

[Jamr]

Yep...

Follow the same videos posted here and add some washers/shims to the servo saver.

Thanks. I will take a look at them.

 

[SrC]

The Fireteam's radius is bad. I have not looked into how to improve it.

The FT is an XLWB chassis. So steering will feel different and maybe feel lacking, than shorter wheelbase platforms. But essentially the belcrank has the exact same travel as all of the 6s platforms. Learn to adapt your driving skills better. Each have their own personalities. Don't let the rig drive you. You drive the rig. Don't let it control you.
Your servo saver or Servo may just be the issue.
My FT runs like a charm. My Fav. My go to RC in the past few months. Stock tires and all. The FT is the heaviest 6s rig out there, out the box. You need to drive it like the heavy girl that she is.

Yep...

Follow the same videos posted here and add some washers/shims to the servo saver.

Adjusting the servo saver spring tension is a thing for most all of the 6s line. Probably with the exception of the 6s Typhon perhaps.... having a short WB and being the lightest of the 6s line, along with smaller buggy wheels. And the TLRT Typhon comes with the X-Hard SS spring and Steering BB's out the box. FWIW.
I didn't need to do anything to my TLRT SS. All stock.

 

[turn2burn]

Cool thanks. Talked to basher and said with kit needed is the lower bushing to let more room in so it doesn't bind. I was a little concerned the DS was tested out at 25kg as everyone upgrades from stock and that's the same almost. Beach bashing would be fun but do a number on rig. They make a silicon teflon spray also.
Vh

 

[Garcbomber]

One way to determine if it's servo saver, rack, or servo torque is to put light pressure on the front of the tower/bumper and try to turn both direction while watching the saver assembly. If the servo arm is moving but not the tires, the saver 'V' is rotating and spring doesn't have enough preload or there is significant slop in the rack. If the servo arm just can't overcome the friction it's too weak and will need to be upgraded. Rack assembly should rotate completely and easily when horn is disconnected as you may have binding in pillow balls or interference with the Ackerman transitions depending on suspension height.

* HV Servo Amp draw is important to understand with BEC and monster torque servos to minimize brown-out opportunity especially if running fans off the receiver/ESC.

 

[SrC]

Don't over look the (4) Pillow balls binding as part of the issue. When one or more are bound up, The servo saver flexes. Reduces steering. This also taxes the servo.
FWIW, I fully layed down all four of my FT shocks. I used 5mm spacers on the front shock shafts. This keeps the front dog bones from popping out of the output cups. And changed my rear Roll Center, by dropping the rear camber links at both ends. I also moved the Lipo tray rearward, less inherent nose diving.
Just some tips.
My FT drives very nice now. Little to No traction rolling, Running the much loved stocker wheels. Tall and narrow. Chops through grass no issues. I like the DS3235 35 Kg AMZ servo in this rig. I set my Firma 150 ESC BEC to 7.4 volts. Plenty enough torque. I suggest you make sure you also have 7.4 volts set.
I believe the default is only at 6v BEC. Double check this.

 

[turn2burn]

Thats some eye candy. I'm running a 4s so my balance in air is fantastic. I'll rip apart my bellcrank today. Well good to know the DS is adequate. I'm not adding much more metal. I got new knuckles stock. And will get those In today. I take off the steering from the knuckles to see if movement is smooth.

 

[SrC]

I like 4s running also in many of my rigs. I change it up depending where I bash. 4s tends to be a tad underpowered because this is a rather heavy rig. But still fun.
And Running 4s instead of 6s packs tends to keep it way more durable FWIW. Especially in the drivetrain department. Any rig.