Anyone disappointed with their turning radius?

[turn2burn]

Hey guys. So after a bunch of reading I went with a DS35 servo from amazon. I also have a basher queen servo saver, which maybe part of the problem as it may be too loose. The problem with that kit is the more you tighten it the unit compresses and the unit ends up binding.

I'm using a kraton 6s but it could be other rigs too. A lot of people say to spend over 50 bucks and get a Savox or something but its too much for me. I even swapped out my lsd for open in the rear.

But it turns like a semi truck, one issue might be the taller grass Im running it.

Was interested to see if anyone here was disappointed with their turning radius and what they did to fix it.

 

[Garcbomber]

Tires, endpoints, diff fluids, and suspension/alignment are all turning radius variables. Then add in your saver and any link slop within the rack assembly.

That servo is weak for a MTruggy, it actually only pulls closer to 25kg on 7.4V. Keep in mind the Kraton will never be a short course phenom.

 

[KnowAir]

You could try swapping in the Talion front end parts. Not sure exactly what's different between them, I believe the stub axles and hubs. Weight distribution is different between the Kraton and Talion as well. I can see a definite difference between my Kraton and my brothers Talion on the track we "race" on here at my house. The Talion is considerably sharper handling. Even with similar truggy race tires on both. Aside from tires, both are (were) stock. I have since swapped suspension parts between my Kraton and Mojave. I now have a medium width Kraton, which still doesn't turn as well as a Talion..better than Kraton though.

 

[turn2burn]

The Talion does share a lot of parts. That's an idea. I just saw that video of a guy testing them and yes the DS has only 25kg of torture. I think I'll upgrade but not sure what to, I know they also make a 40-45kg one. Mpc a arms, basher queen SS, front and rear end shimmed, knuckles, 100/200/100 diff fluid. It does d
Really struggle turning wheels at dead stop in grass. End points adjusted too. Good point about it ever being a track car but this lack of steering stinks.

 

[parcou]

Hey guys. So after a bunch of reading I went with a DS35 servo from amazon. I also have a basher queen servo saver, which maybe part of the problem as it may be too loose. The problem with that kit is the more you tighten it the unit compresses and the unit ends up binding.

I'm using a kraton 6s but it could be other rigs too. A lot of people say to spend over 50 bucks and get a Savox or something but its too much for me. I even swapped out my lsd for open in the rear.

But it turns like a semi truck, one issue might be the taller grass Im running it.

Was interested to see if anyone here was disappointed with their turning radius and what they did to fix it.

I'm not a pro at this, so others could have better advice. Same DS35 servo in my Kraton 6S EXB, and turning was not great.

A few YT videos on adding shims I did to the servo saver helped most for me. DS35 did not show much improvement with the shims added to the servo saver but some. I added a ProModeler servo that was really over the top, but I had the funds to do so.

On the carpet, the turning was a lot better with it and the shims. Was it just the greatest change, NO!

I do not bash my Kraton on grass, but the very few times I did, it shows on the turning. My 100% way I like to bash it is on dirt or a very loose ground surface (no streets). This allows me to power slide in my turns and bank my turns which I like to do. Turning is SUPER to the point I can oversteer with the improved full turning radius.

So I bash it where it handles best, and the added turning does help more than stock. I know it will be a wide turn if I have to turn in grass or something like that.

 

[SrC]

Tires, endpoints, diff fluids, and suspension/alignment are all turning radius variables. Then add in your saver and any link slop within the rack assembly.

That servo is weak for a MTruggy, it actually only pulls closer to 25kg on 7.4V. Keep in mind the Kraton will never be a short course phenom.

+1
ALL those factors determine the Effective Turning radius.
To add... don't overlook the front hub/ uprights. They can bind up and need cleaning out and adjusting often, especially in the dirt and fine Clay.
Honestly I don't have issues with my DS3235. If I did, I would NOT have them in all 9 of my 6s rigs currently and over the years now. Ar ethey the best put there? NO. But good enough for bashing use IMHO. If you get 80-90% of turning radius, wheels sitting still, that is fine. These are basher rigs, not track platform chassis. When running/rolling, the full radius is there.
With the OP , it Seems like the Servo saver is actually to blame here. I shim my Stocker Bellcrank SS spring or run the "X-Hard SS spring. And I always like them on the tighter side.

 

[parcou]

Hey guys. So after a bunch of reading I went with a DS35 servo from amazon. I also have a basher queen servo saver, which maybe part of the problem as it may be too loose. The problem with that kit is the more you tighten it the unit compresses and the unit ends up binding.

I'm using a kraton 6s but it could be other rigs too. A lot of people say to spend over 50 bucks and get a Savox or something but its too much for me. I even swapped out my lsd for open in the rear.

But it turns like a semi truck, one issue might be the taller grass Im running it.

Was interested to see if anyone here was disappointed with their turning radius and what they did to fix it.

Might be helpful...

 

[SrC]

Yeah this is how I do it also.
There were also several threads here in regards, on AF years back.

 

[KnowAir]

I did take both of my v5 EXB servo savers apart and added shims, not sure how much difference it made for me. I didn't really notice anything. I run DS3235's in most of my rigs. Some still have 3225's however. The non adjustable servo savers come apart pretty easily in my experience. I used a vice to get them apart.

 

[Garcbomber]

I've never ran Kraton 6S copperheads, but if you have a smaller/narrower set of wheels to try out that may help you determine best course of action. Without coasting/braking to get weight on the front end, the K6 is rear weight biased and naturally pushing/lifting the front grip on throttle. XLWB chassis will get some handling back with battery forward, but then you'll need more power to keep the same air control. It's a back and forth battle, GET A TYPHON!

 

[SrC]

The Problem with keeping the lipo tray forward (XLWB stock position) is that it tends to nose dive more so when bashing and jumping. I keep mine rearward, like many do. With both my Mojave and Fireteam.
If you like speed running more, keep it forward. Better 4WD traction all round. All 4 wheels will plant better. Hook up better for high speeds. A More balanced F/R weight bias.
Handling is very subjective to how we all drive.

 

[hobo]

I did take both of my v5 EXB servo savers apart and added shims, not sure how much difference it made for me. I didn't really notice anything. I run DS3235's in most of my rigs. Some still have 3225's however. The non adjustable servo savers come apart pretty easily in my experience. I used a vice to get them apart.

I didn't take mine apart I took it of the car and pushed the spring down and put three circlips on. I did try to take one apart once but there was loads of threadlocker on it so ended up ruining it

 

[SrC]

Same here. Way too much Factory RED threadlocker. I destroyed one trying. It actually snapped in half on my vice.
You can buy the parts unassembled and the "X-Hard Spring". One option. But the Circlips method works just fine. Cheapest way. I used 2 circlips. Tighter is better for me. For the many years and all the RC's I have. Tighter side works best. When too soft of a setting, you lose steering while driving hard and under load. I rather let the servo do its job.

 

[KnowAir]

I didn't take mine apart I took it of the car and pushed the spring down and put three circlips on. I did try to take one apart once but there was loads of threadlocker on it so ended up ruining it

I had heard that. I was reluctant to try taking them apart for quire some time because of the threadlock horror stories. I really don't remember my exact process, but it went really easy for me. I don't even recall seeing any threadlocker on the parts after I disassembled them.. That's right in line with factory inconsistencies I suppose?

 

[SrC]

Yeah I already kew that it is Factory Red Thread locked, so I used a Torch on it from the get go. Yet it snapped in half anyway!! Don't bother tryng to taking it apart. Some successfuly said they have. Just I never have.
I don't bother trying anytmore. If I have to, I would just buy the new unassembled retail stock parts and an X-Hard spring along with it, and still yet add one circlip. Just me.
FWIW, if you buy the TLRT Typhon belcrank from Jennys RC, it already has the "X-Hard" chrome colored spring in there. And add a Circlip if you need it even stiffer for a heavier rig. Food for thought.
I myself never considered running any Upgrade alloy belcrank. Stocker is adequate. Most upgrade ones are not truly any fix at all. They are just heavier and look trick, if anything.
Just me.
Also, if you buy the TLRT stocker belcrank from JennysRC... It comes with the 4 sealed BB's in place. A bonus.
Most other Arrma models only have the 4 Brass Oilite Bushings.
At the very least you need to upgrade from the bushings to BB's, if running a stocker "bushing" Steering belcrank.

 

[KnowAir]

After watching this video, I decided to give it a shot. I found some shims in one of my coffee cans that fit perfectly. I was going to just try and slip some clips in but since I had the rigs completely torn down, figured I'd give it a shot. Easy peasy, I did not heat anything either.

 

[hobo]

Yeah I already kew that it is Factory Red Thread locked, so I used a Torch on it from the get go. Yet it snapped in half anyway!! Don't bother tryng to taking it apart. Some successfuly said they have. Just I never have.
I don't bother trying anytmore. If I have to, I would just buy the new unassembled retail stock parts and an X-Hard spring along with it, and still yet add one circlip. Just me.
FWIW, if you buy the TLRT Typhon belcrank from Jennys RC, it already has the "X-Hard" chrome colored spring in there. And add a Circlip if you need it even stiffer for a heavier rig. Food for thought.
I myself never considered running any Upgrade alloy belcrank. Stocker is adequate. Most upgrade ones are not truly any fix at all. They are just heavier and look trick, if anything.
Just me.
Also, if you buy the TLRT stocker belcrank from JennysRC... It comes with the 4 sealed BB's in place. A bonus.
Most other Arrma models only have the 4 Brass Oilite Bushings.
At the very least you need to upgrade from the bushings to BB's, if running a stocker "bushing" Steering belcrank.

yes I have the x hard spring on my talion exb works good with no shims. the talion is lighter than say the kraton though also smaller tires on the talion

 

[turn2burn]

Yea maybe the servo saver. I asked Basher Queen whats the deal as I can only crank it down so much and then it binds. I wonder how much my open diff in the rear helps, kinda want the lsd. They are rpm control arms my bad. Well if others had good luck with these DS's then I should be able to dial it in. Ordered new knuckles today as both cross threaded as I put them together, and I was careful. I love the power slide, like drifting really. I can get 30 degrees tops at dead stop on grass.

 

[SirCrashALot]

Yeah I already kew that it is Factory Red Thread locked, so I used a Torch on it from the get go. Yet it snapped in half anyway!! Don't bother tryng to taking it apart. Some successfuly said they have. Just I never have.
I don't bother trying anytmore. If I have to, I would just buy the new unassembled retail stock parts and an X-Hard spring along with it, and still yet add one circlip. Just me.
FWIW, if you buy the TLRT Typhon belcrank from Jennys RC, it already has the "X-Hard" chrome colored spring in there. And add a Circlip if you need it even stiffer for a heavier rig. Food for thought.
I myself never considered running any Upgrade alloy belcrank. Stocker is adequate. Most upgrade ones are not truly any fix at all. They are just heavier and look trick, if anything.
Just me.
Also, if you buy the TLRT stocker belcrank from JennysRC... It comes with the 4 sealed BB's in place. A bonus.
Most other Arrma models only have the 4 Brass Oilite Bushings.
At the very least you need to upgrade from the bushings to BB's, if running a stocker "bushing" Steering belcrank.

I found that those tiny bellcrank bearings are prone to seizing often. And given the amount of work it takes to replace them, i happily put the bushings back in there.

 

[KnowAir]

I found that those tiny bellcrank bearings are prone to seizing often. And given the amount of work it takes to replace them, i happily put the bushings back in there.

I used to grumble about Arrma "cheaping out" and using bushings instead of bearings in the steering. I was wrong, the bushings will easily outlast bearings in basher steering posts. Bearings seem to seize quite easily in the steering posts, gets worses if you bash in the wet of course, which I like to bash in snow, so bushings for me. Perhaps it's the fact that the bearings in the steering posts are mounted horizontally, allowing the water to just lay on the seal, eventually seeping into the bearing?