Why do “professionals” give bad advice?

[Lethalcobra2k3]

So the start of my anger is the local hobby store selling me IC5 connectors and a 50w soldering iron to solder 10 gauge wire to my battery connector. Well the damn thing melts the plastic before it tins the connector. I went back and bought a new connector and they sold me a $140 new soldering gun that is 100 watts. Same result. Now Im furious with a pile of useless crap. Does anyone have any real advice on how to solder thick wires without getting a third degree burn from the insulation melting off before the solder penetrates the wire?

 

[Johnny b]

No such thing as professionals down here in Florida. If be returning after hours to the hobby store and professionally solder the door shut.

 

[slick2500]

So the start of my anger is the local hobby store selling me IC5 connectors and a 50w soldering iron to solder 10 gauge wire to my battery connector. Well the damn thing melts the plastic before it tins the connector. I went back and bought a new connector and they sold me a $140 new soldering gun that is 100 watts. Same result. Now Im furious with a pile of useless crap. Does anyone have any real advice on how to solder thick wires without getting a third degree burn from the insulation melting off before the solder penetrates the wire?

50w is definitely not enough but 100w should be more than enough. To keep the connector from melting plug another spare connector into the other side.

 

[KnowAir]

It sounds like you may be trying to solder too soon. The iron needs time to get up to temp before putting it against the materials you're trying to solder. The 50 watt iron should be sufficient for what you're trying to do. I use a 40 watt iron to solder 10 gauge wire all the time.
I would say the iron needs at least 5 minutes to get to temperature, maybe a bit more. Use some solder to touch the tip of the iron to test readiness. It should melt immediately when touched. Then it's go time.
The biggest difference in irons that I'm aware of is duty cycle. Cheaper and lower powered irons have shorter duty cycles, which means they only stay hot for a timed "cycle", then cool, then repeat. Always check the heat at the tip with solder to make sure it's "on cycle", otherwise you'll overheat wire and connectors while waiting for the iron to be hot enough to solder again.

 

[GraniteFox]

Agree. I always plug in the opposing side connector to solder the wires. I gave up on the Ec5. The ic5 and the xt90 soldering is pretty easy. Also get something to hold the connector and wires. A jig or plyers with rubber bands on the handle seem to work well. I usually solder at around 750 temp.

 

[KnowAir]

Agree. I always plug in the opposing side connector to solder the wires. I gave up on the Ec5. The ic5 and the xt90 soldering is pretty easy. Also get something to hold the connector and wires. A jig or plyers with rubber bands on the handle seem to work well. I usually solder at around 750 temp.

Yep, need something to hold the parts, whether it's connectors or the wires. I use vice grips carefully positioned to hold things where I need them. Also using a plug of the opposite gender to help draw heat away from the connector being soldered helps a lot. I'm sure having temp adjust is very helpful too.

 

[dure16]

So the start of my anger is the local hobby store selling me IC5 connectors and a 50w soldering iron to solder 10 gauge wire to my battery connector. Well the damn thing melts the plastic before it tins the connector. I went back and bought a new connector and they sold me a $140 new soldering gun that is 100 watts. Same result. Now Im furious with a pile of useless crap. Does anyone have any real advice on how to solder thick wires without getting a third degree burn from the insulation melting off before the solder penetrates the wire?

I mean this in the kindest way possible - it is probably skill holding you back, not the iron.

I would suggest reading through this:

https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Hobby shop guys are far from pros at much of anything other than mindless chit chat.

IC connectors are a bit of a pain. Some good how to videos out there.

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

It sounds like you may be trying to solder too soon. The iron needs time to get up to temp before putting it against the materials you're trying to solder. The 50 watt iron should be sufficient for what you're trying to do. I use a 40 watt iron to solder 10 gauge wire all the time.
I would say the iron needs at least 5 minutes to get to temperature, maybe a bit more. Use some solder to touch the tip of the iron to test readiness. It should melt immediately when touched. Then it's go time.
The biggest difference in irons that I'm aware of is duty cycle. Cheaper and lower powered irons have shorter duty cycles, which means they only stay hot for a timed "cycle", then cool, then repeat. Always check the heat at the tip with solder to make sure it's "on cycle", otherwise you'll overheat wire and connectors while waiting for the iron to be hot enough to solder again.

I held the trigger for almost 2 minutes and the solder runs like water when it hits the tip, I preheated the wire until the insulation 3” back started burning my fingers. As soon as I touch the solder to the wire it wont flow or penetrate. This is the 100w gun I was using

Hobby shop guys are far from pros at much of anything other than mindless chit chat.

IC connectors are a bit of a pain. Some good how to videos out there.

Someone told me to get EC5 connectors and heat the barrels with a torch and its easier, so Im gonna try that

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I held the trigger for almost 2 minutes and the solder runs like water when it hits the tip, I preheated the wire until the insulation 3” back started burning my fingers. As soon as I touch the solder to the wire it wont flow or penetrate. This is the 100w gun I was using View attachment 358194


Someone told me to get EC5 connectors and heat the barrels with a torch and its easier, so Im gonna try that

You need flux.

Flux is the magic that makes the solder get sucked into the wire.

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

I mean this in the kindest way possible - it is probably skill holding you back, not the iron.

I would suggest reading through this:

https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html

Ive designed and built amplifiers, Ive sweat in copper pipes, never had to solder 10 gauge wire before

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

You need flux.

Flux is the magic that makes the solder get sucked into the wire.

I have RMA flux

 

[Moirae]

Ngl I gave up on trying to solder connectors and now I just buy the connectors with wire attached already and I solder wire to wire instead

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

Ngl I gave up on trying to solder connectors and now I just buy the connectors with wire attached already and I solder wire to wire instead

I wish they had 90 degree angle 6.5 male bullets for my HW esc. Running a 6s esc in a 3s vorteks takes up a lot of real estate and the motor wires press tight to the body

 

[KnowAir]

I held the trigger for almost 2 minutes and the solder runs like water when it hits the tip, I preheated the wire until the insulation 3” back started burning my fingers. As soon as I touch the solder to the wire it wont flow or penetrate. This is the 100w gun I was using View attachment 358194


Someone told me to get EC5 connectors and heat the barrels with a torch and its easier, so Im gonna try that

I've never had any luck with the pistol grip soldering irons myself. I use a simple pen type 40 watt Weller with a chisel tip. Works a treat for me. I assumed you were using rosin core solder, I always do. Apparently there are better methods, such as using flux and non flux core solder, IDK. I just use what works for me.

 

[joostin420]

 

[Lethalcobra2k3]

I've never had any luck with the pistol grip soldering irons myself. I use a simple pen type 40 watt Weller with a chisel tip. Works a treat for me. I assumed you were using rosin core solder, I always do. Apparently there are better methods, such as using flux and non flux core solder, IDK. I just use what works for me.

Apparently the pistol grip gun I got is crap, Im ordering a butane adjustable now and a whole bunch of connectors to practice on

 

[KnowAir]

My nipples are farther apart than that, do they sell larger sizes?

 

[SirCrashALot]

I held the trigger for almost 2 minutes and the solder runs like water when it hits the tip, I preheated the wire until the insulation 3” back started burning my fingers. As soon as I touch the solder to the wire it wont flow or penetrate. This is the 100w gun I was using View attachment 358194


Someone told me to get EC5 connectors and heat the barrels with a torch and its easier, so Im gonna try that

That's how i do it. I was done with the same problem. Messing up so bad so often, i decided to go radical and easy mode. Put the connector in a vice. Heat it up with a torch, fill it up with solder and heat till it boils. Then press the wire in and hold still for 10 seconds. Done.
Do make sure you use leaded solder. The modern tin stuff is crap.

 

[KnowAir]

Apparently the pistol grip gun I got is crap, Im ordering a butane adjustable now and a whole bunch of connectors to practice on

I had 2 different,no 3 different pistol grip irons that I could never get to work for me. I bought a HF similar to what you have, melted the ends right off the stupid thing, without a single successful solder joint. A Weller, and even an older Craftsman branded one.. no bueno for me.
It can be super frustrating indeed. Practice, practice, practice.. all that worked for me. Good luck brother.