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That went way over my head
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Very Old thread, but this post above is Misinformation. And makes NO sense, actually.Going to be trying Permatex Ceramic Brake Lube when I do my diffs shortly but don't know if it's a good recommendation or not. Got the idea from some guy on the internet and given that it makes sense, figured it was worth a try just just for the hell of it.
I used my Marine grease in my Limitless diffs . It's what I have for my RC boats.Does marine grease work on cars?
Yes, lots of threads with some discussions on this. Probably more than just this.Trolling here? No, but where’s that other dang thread that had examples of certain types of grease weakening/softening the bulkheads to the point of failure over time? Certain petroleum bases do. There was also a pretty compelling argument stating why to not use white lithium grease. I’ll keep looking for it…
Do you grease your motor pinion and center diff? Why not, because it would just be flung off everywhere.
I only throw a thin bead of 618 loctite on the OD of the bearing and aluminum diff housing radii, same thing on the bottom to the chassis mounting flange. Total seal provided a bearing doesn’t let go.
618/yamabond is a gasket maker that is used for aluminum flanges, good to a few hundred degrees and never hardens(non-setting flexible)
Yeah that would prevent a Spun BB. Common with some Alloy Upgrade bulkheads. And even the Stockers. Extra oz. of prevention.Do you grease your motor pinion and center diff? Why not, because it would just be flung off everywhere.
I only throw a thin bead of 618 loctite on the OD of the bearing and aluminum diff housing radii, same thing on the bottom to the chassis mounting flange. Total seal provided a bearing doesn’t let go.
618/yamabond is a gasket maker that is used for aluminum flanges, good to a few hundred degrees and never hardens(non-setting flexible)
I find that synthetic greases are somewhat safer for plastics. Generally speaking. Some hard composite plastics can absorb some greases in general.Yes, lots of threads with some discussions on this. Probably more than just this.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/marine-grease-red-n-tacky-bad-for-plastics.59983/
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/grease-for-diff.59432/
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/diff-case-gear-and-input-gear-stripped-why.51164/
Lots of discussion, thought I don't know that I've seen anyone provide concrete examples of it happening. I've seen some white lithium greases advertised as plastic safe. I use it, but only on my metal gears. For plastic gears, i'd used inert stuff like silicone based grease/oils.
Looks sort of like an old engine with leaky valve cover gaskets.I find that synthetic greases are somewhat safer for plastics. Generally speaking. Some hard composite plastics can absorb some greases in general.
Have you ever noticed the bulkheads tend to "sweat" the grease on the outside, through the Bulkhead. Visible when you see dirt collect on it. Just my observation.
Hi, sorry for bumping old thread. i don't have much options as i live in india. which one is best from below for losi mini t 2.0, kraton 6s and senton 3sVery Old thread, but this post above is Misinformation. And makes NO sense, actually.
For for anyone considering this ....Don't use any Brake lubricants. I have that Permatex Ceram. stuff here, and it is for only doing my brakes. Good stuff and expensive too, BUT only for Car brakes.
Even though YT "RC GUY Garage" and some others Use it, don't follow this advice. RCGG, is the type of guy that reaches for whatever is within an arms reach. And doesn't care.
Any Multipurpose Automotive NLGI High Pressure Grease is correct, Synthetic types even better. For all diff's Main and Input Gears. A smear of this grease on the Diffs Output Cup's shafts, I also recommend, when building your diff.
Good to always ask first.
This EP grease below is what you want, absolutely. And Not the other ones. Any Automotive grease that says NLGI 1, 2, or 3 is what you need for the Main gears.
>>>https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07FY7G8J1/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A2AL6IVND0I91F&th=1
The only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
Enjoy.
heating didnt help, spraying lube didnt helpNot familiar with that specifically. But I believe it is just press fitted too tight. Try to somehow press it off gently enough. Try some spray lube to help it some. What I would do.
Maybe heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer. No flame heat though. That's plastic. Being careful with the heat.
In theory, the metal BB will expand in size just enough and be easier to press off. Try that. I know it works for me in similar situations.
>>>>>>>Are you sure that BB is not sandwiched somehow with any faster between the plastic shaft and The gear?????
I know nothing about that model. Hopefully someone else here has some more experience.
>>>Is that plastic shaft Hollow? Maybe there is a fastener inside the hollow shaft that connects to the gear, sandwiching that BB in place?? IDK.
Just some ideas.
i think the faster or drive shift in itself is somekind of screw which is stuck like a planet to sun and its immovable unles i destroy one of them. god dammit>>>>>>>Are you sure that BB is not sandwiched somehow with any faster between the plastic shaft and The gear?????
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