Kraton Welp, looks like my center diff case is done. Looking for a quality replacement.

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Barmaleus

Barmaleus

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Tallinn, Estonia
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
Hey everyone!

Decided to open the center diff one more time to check what's up. I did open it a week ago and tightened everything up/Loctite where applicable.
Both pinion gear and spur gear are loose again. Sigh.

Tried to tighten up the spur gear and what'd you think? The thread inside the diff case is gone. I can no longer tighten up the screws.


I need your experience, friends: what are some good center diff cases for Kraton 4s v2.5? Apparently I need to get one. I am based in Europe.

Thanks a lot!


1715459504442.png
 
Clean out the threads has loctight residue inside. Clean out try again. No upgrades for case yet or get a replacement. Really don't need a upgrade lmao good case. I had the same problem I Clean out loctight again tighten it super tight never came loose again
 
Barmaleus said:
Hey everyone!

Decided to open the center diff one more time to check what's up. I did open it a week ago and tightened everything up/Loctite where applicable.
Both pinion gear and spur gear are loose again. Sigh.

Tried to tighten up the spur gear and what'd you think? The thread inside the diff case is gone. I can no longer tighten up the screws.


I need your experience, friends: what are some good center diff cases for Kraton 4s v2.5? Apparently I need to get one. I am based in Europe.

Thanks a lot!


View attachment 365975
Click to expand...

You could try to re-tap the holes..
Use slightly longer screws??
 
Heli-coil man.... look up the size and go from there.
Back in the day we used to coil the diff housings on the tc3/tc4 cars because we'd be pulling diffs constantly to change setup or something. I havnt looked in many years but that should still be an option.
Or as tex said- drill and tap to the next size...

Only other option I'd try was to force jb weld in with a tooth pick.. let cure and drill/ tap for the size screw you want.
 
Top dog nero king said:
Clean out the threads has loctight residue inside. Clean out try again. No upgrades for case yet or get a replacement. Really don't need a upgrade lmao good case. I had the same problem I Clean out loctight again tighten it super tight never came loose again
Click to expand...
Man, the screw just spins inside. The thread is gone for good.

Tex Koder said:
You could try to re-tap the holes..
Use slightly longer screws??
Click to expand...
Don't have the tools to create new thread. Maybe longer screws. Tho I don't see how they'd hold the spur gear if the factory ones could not.

I'll be talking to Arrma. This does not look right. Maybe 3 months of bashing max and this thing is not usable =(

Bustedaw11 said:
Heli-coil man.... look up the size and go from there
Click to expand...
I'll check it out, thanks! From what I understand, not a cheap solution 🙂
 
Barmaleus said:
Man, the screw just spins inside. The thread is gone for good.


Don't have the tools to create new thread. Maybe longer screws. Tho I don't see how they'd hold the spur gear if the factory ones could not.

I'll be talking to Arrma. This does not look right. Maybe 3 months of bashing max and this thing is not usable =(
Click to expand...

Fact is- you had it apart.... you assembled it. You most likely over tightened them accidentally. If they were stripped by arrma you would have noticed this when you assembled it the last time.

Also when you go to thread a screw in in sub-par material always turn counter clockwise first until you feel a thread pop. Line the threads up with what's already there. Then tighten so you don't try and create new threads.
 
Bustedaw11 said:
Fact is- you had it apart.... you assembled it. You most likely over tightened them accidentally. If they were stripped by arrma you would have noticed this when you assembled it the last time.

Also when you go to thread a screw in in sub-par material always turn counter clockwise first until you feel a thread pop. Line the threads up with what's already there. Then tighten so you don't try and create new threads.
Click to expand...
I try to do this but I never get the pop, especially in plastic
 
@Bustedaw11 I only took the screws out because the spur gear was loose. And yep, I always make sure to get into the old thread properly. Learned it the hard way with my 1/18 crawler 🙂
Today was just the third time the screws were going in. First - factory, second - a week ago. Now the thread is no more. I dunno, does not look fine to me.
 
Barmaleus said:
@Bustedaw11 I only took the screws out because the spur gear was loose. And yep, I always make sure to get into the old thread properly. Learned it the hard way with my 1/18 crawler 🙂
Today was just the third time the screws were going in. First - factory, second - a week ago. Now the thread is no more. I dunno, does not look fine to me.
Click to expand...

Really sorry to hear about your headache on these threads stripping..

You saved me the hassle for sure
because I was going to get these 1st run 3S/4S Center Diffs...

Guess I'll wait til the v2 of these to comes out before investing in any.
 
Last edited:
Sorry if I cam off wrong.. I'm a mechanic by trade and see people mess things up only to blame someone else on a daily basis. It's extremely common for folks to do with rc and then try and say something is wrong with the part when they caused the issue..
You may or may not have, shouldn't of made the assumption it was on you. My bad.
Either way...
They could have had them loose to start or over torqued and threads pulled I suppose after a bit more thought into it.

In the end you got a part that needs repaired or replaced. If it were me I'd look into going up a size and drill/tap it. You can order single taps very cheap online these days.

If you feel that is above something your comfortable with I suppose you could attempt a warrenty situation. I wouldn't mention to them that you'd had it apart yourself. Just that it was loose and upon tightening it discovered the stripped screws. I doubt they would warrenty it if they knew you'd had your hand in tightening them.
 
@Bustedaw11 No worries sir, all good! I am super cautious with everything I own. Want to make sure things last.

The diff case is a delicate detail, so drilling is something I'd refrain from doing myself. Will check with some friends who have proper tools/experience to do it right.
In parallel, will get in touch with Arrma. Will see what they say (specifically, European office).
 
Barmaleus said:
@Bustedaw11 No worries sir, all good! I am super cautious with everything I own. Want to make sure things last.

The diff case is a delicate detail, so drilling is something I'd refrain from doing myself. Will check with some friends who have proper tools/experience to do it right.
In parallel, will get in touch with Arrma. Will see what they say (specifically, European office).
Click to expand...
I've heard many many nightmare stories about people trying to deal with Arrma or HH in Europe, they like to give people the run around a lot. Supplier says it's on Arrma, Arrma says it's on HH Europe, HH Europe says it's on the supplier.........
 
Try the pointy end of a tie -rap. If you don't have a small 8 inch, just slit a bigger one down the middle. Shove the tie- rap all the way down the screw hole a drop of crazy glue or tire glue. Put the screw in and tighten down,don't over tighten,cut the tie -rap.
 
Just a hobby said:
Try the pointy end of a tie -rap. If you don't have a small 8 inch, just slit a bigger one down the middle. Shove the tie- rap all the way down the screw hole a drop of crazy glue or tire glue. Put the screw in and tighten down,don't over tighten,cut the tie -rap.
Click to expand...

This works awesome for stripped license plate screws on 1:1 cars 😉
 
Bustedaw11 said:
This works awesome for stripped license plate screws on 1:1 cars 😉
Click to expand...
Yes works best on plastic. Two shock tower screws on my kids big rock are done like that for the longest. Definitely use crazy glue on metal. I hope it works xor you long term.
 
Since the screw hole is a a through hole and not a blind hole you can even do a nut and bolt combo to just clamp the gasket. All you need is a long enough screw / bolt. But yes for $12 please buy a new one and I would straight away use a longer screw from day 1.

In my country this part is not stocked and ordering it ala carte costs 20-25$!
 

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