Kraton So, how is support?

[Lurkios]

Picked up a Kraton a few days ago on the excellent reviews. First run I got about half a battery in, grass and pavement - don't think I ever got it past 75% throttle (thing was a beast), one flip from too tight a turn in the grass. Only problem I noticed was backing up - front wheels would not hold straight at all above minimal speed. (Possibly normal?)

Few days of rain and back out - still babying it since it's new, some speed runs back and forth on concrete, climbed a moderate hill... save the backing up issue, all's well. Figure about 30 minutes in it rolls past me and I notice the sound's changed drastically, kind of a grinding, though it didn't seem to be acting much differently. Seems I'd broken a tooth off the pinion attached to the motor. Popped the pinion off, gave it a push and the grinding was still there - coming from the center differential. Mind you, no crashes - a few wheelie's was about the worst of it really (wheelie bar installed).

So - two questions:

1. Any idea what I'm in store for when I get this diff apart? Normal-ish behavior (a bit jerky), but a terrible grinding sound. Spur gear seems in-tact.
   
   
2. How easy is it to deal with Arrma support?

 

[Sully_]

i'm having the same issue with the reverse thing. My center diff also sounds a bit crunchy when driving, I did have a bit of a leak when i first got mine though, ordered some 100k diff fluid and gonna rebuild

 

[Blucross]

Arrma support is real easy to deal with. I shoot them an email with pics of the issue, a pic of my receipt, and a description. Most times they respond with a part they are sending. One time they declined to send a part, but it was due to a crash, which they don't cover (and I can see why they wouldn't).

I've gotten in the habit of taking all diffs apart when new out of the box, shimming them, putting heavier fluids based on the vehicle, and setting the mesh before I run them for the first time. So far in 6 Arrma RC's and dozens of batteries, no Diff issues to speak of.

 

[Lurkios]

Any decent guides on shimming a diff? I've seen it mentioned a lot, but honestly not sure how or why it's necessary.
(New to the ground RC thing.)

I'll try the support then. Was considering an exchange - I'm assuming it's a fringe case, but it's pretty disappointing for a "basher" that never got bashed to fall apart on the second run.

 

[Blucross]

From what I have read, Arrma will back you up 100% and make you whole. Since it's such a new purchase, you may be able to work out an exchange, but I don't know, never been down that road with Tower Hobbies. Probably easier and faster to take the replacement parts. Honestly, I am impatient as they come, so I buy the replacements on Amazon prime, and stock the ones they sent me as backups.

Shimming Instructions: For the Diff shimming, there is a video many consider to be the best one for us. It's

Shims: I personally use a set of Mugen branded shims. Part # E0206. Shimming the Diff will remove the tiny bit of "slop" between the gears that can allow them to shatter when running and jumping especially. To clean the existing diff fluid out, I recommend buying a can of Naptha paint thinner form Home Depot. It's fairly cheap and will last a long time. I soak all the diff parts in a little coffee mug with some Naptha in it. Swirl it around for a minute or 2 and the parts should come out clean as new.

Diff fluids: Get yourself some 100k diff fluid for the center, and you can go 50k front / 50k rear, or some go 50k front / 30k rear. The stock fluid is 10k in the center, which allows too much power to transfer to the front wheels. This power is wasted since your front wheels are not making as much contact, and they end up ballooning and ruined eventually. Thicker oil in the center keeps some of that power at the rear. Having 50k up front ensures it won't spin as fast as the stock thinner fluid. There's tons of resources on tuning using diff fluids. I am still a total noob at surface RC too, so take it for what it's worth.

 

[NwiRC]

I've dealt with their "support" twice. Neither time could I even get anyone to do anything. Emails, phone calls. Everything ignored until I pushed and pushed. When I finally got someone to listen, they advised me to take it up with where it was purchased. Worse than dealing with Comcast.

 

[chevys10zr2003]

I've dealt with their "support" twice. Neither time could I even get anyone to do anything. Emails, phone calls. Everything ignored until I pushed and pushed. When I finally got someone to listen, they advised me to take it up with where it was purchased. Worse than dealing with Comcast.

This was my experience with their support as well. A lot of people say that their support is great but I did not have any sort of help from them. After 3 weeks and 5 emails with no response, I decided to call them and they said that my emails were put in a hold folder in their email system for some reason and didn't know why (gmail account, not a business email). I then got transferred around to 3 different areas over 75 minutes on the phone/waiting and they said "you bought it from Amazon so you need to contact them to get this resolved". They still make a great product, I'm just done trying to deal with their support.

 

[NwiRC]

Their support, and their support alone, is the only reason why I have not purchased another Arrma vehicle yet. Everything in me wants the V3 Talion and a Senton. I'm struggling with wanting to buy them both right this second....but then having to deal with their support again.........is pushing me to just ordering the Tekno

 

[chevys10zr2003]

To me, the support isn't that big of a deal. If any of the electronics fail, I will just upgrade them as we all know that stock electronics on any RTR vehicle aren't the best and if any parts break it was most likely something that I did so I wouldn't warranty those anyways. Like I said, I am still more than happy with their products themselves, I am just done dealing with their support and will repair/upgrade things on my own.

 

[jk420]

Ouch....

 

[Lurkios2]

An update from an alternate account, as password reset doesn't seem to be working.

The hobby shop I purchased the Kraton from (good folks) agreed to exchange it for another, letting me know they'd have one in a few days later. Called in on the day specified, they told me Aarma had stopped sending out Kratons - and I might be able to get one a week and a half later.

On one hand, I'm glad they agreed to exchange on the unit.
On the other, I'm currently out $900 for an RC I got to use for less than an hour with no solid date on the replacement.
Looks like the halt in sales was to release the V3 - so I'm hoping I get one of those in, at least.

@Blucross - thank you for the video and tips there. I'd actually purchased some 300k for the center, and then 50k/30k - but put in an order for some 100k as well. Should be in well before I receive the unit, so I might start with opening it up, shimming and swapping oils.

 

[dirtx]

I'd opt to RETURN it and go with the V3 unless you got a screaming deal on the v2.

 

[Lurkios2]

Return isn't an option, or I'd have taken it. 14 day exchange policy.
Can't blame the hobby shop for that one, or everyone would be using them to either trial RC's or get refunds on planes they'd crashed.

 

[chevys10zr2003]

Update on support:
I took my motor apart after it locked up and discovered I blew apart a ball bearing in my motor in my V2 Senton. I emailed support to get the specs on the bearing so that I could buy a new bearing and put it back together. With the receipt, they offered to warranty my motor, even though normally opening the motor voids the warranty. From the first email to sending my motor in (with prepaid shipping ticket) and getting my brand new motor was 7 days. So maybe my first experience was a fluke and their email system did just have a bug.