New Castle 1/6 Mamba Monster X 8s esc

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Mongoose said:
I see they have the combo for $420 but I don’t need the motor. I wonder if they would sell just the ESC?
Click to expand...
I'm sure you could sell the motor privately ?
 
I did my first testing on the MMX8s yesterday and really like it so far.
An interesting new feature that I use for speedruns is the drag brake. If you are not familiar with this feature, basically it applies the brake once you let off the throttle. As you could imagine a scenario where you are doing 100 + and loose radio reception this would be a life saver.

The new part is that instead of apply the brake at a set point like 30,40,50,60% it now has a setting to start soft on the brakes and then ramp up. I really am liking this feature so far! It seems to allow you to set the drag brake at a higher level and still have controlled braking due to the soft initial application of the brakes.
 
All this talk of the MM 8s, I want one sooooooo bad..!!!
With the current situation in the world though, I think I will have to make do with you guys talking about how good yours are?
I struggle to get Castle stuff at the best of times in the UK, never mind with the world going to ???
 
I am really excited about this ESC, after long time.
It is so efficient, ripple is from another world, anybody who has XLX knows that ripple of 1,5V @ 320A WITHOUT cap pack is something you can't see. Temps are great, it is super small form, super compact, doesn't request top plate mounting...
But...I can smell in the air that 1/5 ESC with new technology is on the way, it blow away anything! Finally I will beat crap out of my TP CM motors, I will cook them alive! :) :) :)
 
btosic said:
I am really excited about this ESC, after long time.
It is so efficient, ripple is from another world, anybody who has XLX knows that ripple of 1,5V @ 320A WITHOUT cap pack is something you can't see. Temps are great, it is super small form, super compact, doesn't request top plate mounting...
But...I can smell in the air that 1/5 ESC with new technology is on the way, it blow away anything! Finally I will beat crap out of my TP CM motors, I will cook them alive! :) :) :)
Click to expand...
I keep hearing this also.

Only rumors at this point.... Possibly a 600amp 12s capable ESC ?
 
I am all ears, waiting...
Well, I would gear up my strached Typhon, and watch 4070CM 2900KV burn, I would just wach the damn thing burn and smile... :)
 
LibertyMKiii said:
I did my first testing on the MMX8s yesterday and really like it so far.
An interesting new feature that I use for speedruns is the drag brake. If you are not familiar with this feature, basically it applies the brake once you let off the throttle. As you could imagine a scenario where you are doing 100 + and loose radio reception this would be a life saver.

The new part is that instead of apply the brake at a set point like 30,40,50,60% it now has a setting to start soft on the brakes and then ramp up. I really am liking this feature so far! It seems to allow you to set the drag brake at a higher level and still have controlled braking due to the soft initial application of the brakes.
Click to expand...

The newest firmware for the XLX should also have the new drag brake features.

The drag brake ramp feature does a linear ramp of the drag brake over up to 2 seconds.

We also change the way the drag brake works a bit. Before V2.02 the drag brake wasn't applied unless you were at 0% throttle and came on instantly at 0%. Now if you are below 25% throttle it is applying some drag brake that scales up to your set drag brake at 0%. This dramatically improves low speed control. This was put in for rock crawlers, but it should help with low speed control for any setup. It should make it easier to drive a fast setup near you. I'd say that most speed cars should run at least 10-25% drag brake with the slowest ramp. It shouldn't change the feel on throttle any but will provide a safeguard in case you lose radio and will increase low speed control.
 
Recently completed a speed run with the MMX8s running 8s power. I set it up with 40% brake and 20% drag brake.
I love this ESC!!!!

This is without a cap pack and running the original BLX 2050kv motor. I'll be adding a cap pack for safety.
Typhon 119mph 8s Capture.PNG


According to the calculator the peak of 41k rpms and the gearing I have indicates the car was doing 131mph. It was a very short run. You can see the dark red line for RPMS only hit that peak for a brief moment so the GPS didn't have enough time to pick it up I guess....
The GPS read 119mph.
 
LibertyMKiii said:
Recently completed a speed run with the MMX8s running 8s power. I set it up with 40% brake and 20% drag brake.
I love this ESC!!!!

This is without a cap pack and running the original BLX 2050kv motor. I'll be adding a cap pack for safety.
View attachment 74163

According to the calculator the peak of 41k rpms and the gearing I have indicates the car was doing 131mph. It was a very short run. You can see the dark red line for RPMS only hit that peak for a brief moment so the GPS didn't have enough time to pick it up I guess....
The GPS read 119mph.
Click to expand...
This graph has a lot of interesting points in it.
1. It looks like your topspeed maybe could have been slightly higher. Right before you hit your top speed, the current drops by about 50A. If you look at the black throttle line, it very slightly drops before you get to top speed. Depending on calibration, you may not have hit 100% throttle while at the max RPM in the run. You might look at the "Power Out" graph and make sure it is at 100% while at max RPM.
2. The throttle input has steps in it. You do your best to accelerate slowly, but every so often you hold a throttle value for a very short amount of time before moving to the next step. Every one of these steps shows a spike in the current/watt lines. Despite these steps, the RPM if fairly smooth, so you are doing a good job of not holding any step too long.
3. Ripple gets kinda high, but quickly falls off over 50%. That is expected. Ripple is highest at 50% throttle because it is a measurement of the difference of input voltage when the MOSFETs are turned on and when they are turned off. When it is at 50% throttle the time of on vs off is equal so the capacitors have the most time to drop in voltage and the most time to regain voltage.
4. The voltage is fairly stable until you get to full throttle and then it drops off by 6 volts. Adding input caps will not help with this drop off, but will slow down the rate at which it happens. The voltage reading happens in between phase transitions so the voltage is stable at low throttle, but it drops off as the battery struggles to output that much amperage. The only way to lower the amount of drop(and raise the final RPM of the motor) is to use higher C rated batteries.
5. The temperature reading continues to rise after the current drops off. This reading is done by the internal sensor in the microprocessor. The microprocessor is mounted on a thin PCB that is soldered to the back of the main power board. The heat from the mosfets has to travel through 2 different PCBs and a chip before it shows up on the sensor. With the thermal mass of the waterproofing and the heatsink, it can take a while to show up how hot the mosfets actually are(they most likely got 5-10 degrees hotter, but it's not a big deal).
 
robert@castle said:
This graph has a lot of interesting points in it.
1. It looks like your topspeed maybe could have been slightly higher. Right before you hit your top speed, the current drops by about 50A. If you look at the black throttle line, it very slightly drops before you get to top speed. Depending on calibration, you may not have hit 100% throttle while at the max RPM in the run. You might look at the "Power Out" graph and make sure it is at 100% while at max RPM.
2. The throttle input has steps in it. You do your best to accelerate slowly, but every so often you hold a throttle value for a very short amount of time before moving to the next step. Every one of these steps shows a spike in the current/watt lines. Despite these steps, the RPM if fairly smooth, so you are doing a good job of not holding any step too long.
3. Ripple gets kinda high, but quickly falls off over 50%. That is expected. Ripple is highest at 50% throttle because it is a measurement of the difference of input voltage when the MOSFETs are turned on and when they are turned off. When it is at 50% throttle the time of on vs off is equal so the capacitors have the most time to drop in voltage and the most time to regain voltage.
4. The voltage is fairly stable until you get to full throttle and then it drops off by 6 volts. Adding input caps will not help with this drop off, but will slow down the rate at which it happens. The voltage reading happens in between phase transitions so the voltage is stable at low throttle, but it drops off as the battery struggles to output that much amperage. The only way to lower the amount of drop(and raise the final RPM of the motor) is to use higher C rated batteries.
5. The temperature reading continues to rise after the current drops off. This reading is done by the internal sensor in the microprocessor. The microprocessor is mounted on a thin PCB that is soldered to the back of the main power board. The heat from the mosfets has to travel through 2 different PCBs and a chip before it shows up on the sensor. With the thermal mass of the waterproofing and the heatsink, it can take a while to show up how hot the mosfets actually are(they most likely got 5-10 degrees hotter, but it's not a big deal).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed response @robert@castle
I try not to be one of those people who say "I never hit full throttle" but that was the case here. It was my first time running on this road and first time at this high of a speed. The car was eating up around 190 feet of road per second and I got off throttle a bit early. Very impressed with this ESC. I cannot wait to see the XLX replacement when that time comes!
 
Gah I want one of these. I just wish that the 1512 was a 6/8s motor. The 1515 runs way too hot in the Mojave.
 
robert@castle said:
This graph has a lot of interesting points in it.
1. It looks like your topspeed maybe could have been slightly higher. Right before you hit your top speed, the current drops by about 50A. If you look at the black throttle line, it very slightly drops before you get to top speed. Depending on calibration, you may not have hit 100% throttle while at the max RPM in the run. You might look at the "Power Out" graph and make sure it is at 100% while at max RPM.
2. The throttle input has steps in it. You do your best to accelerate slowly, but every so often you hold a throttle value for a very short amount of time before moving to the next step. Every one of these steps shows a spike in the current/watt lines. Despite these steps, the RPM if fairly smooth, so you are doing a good job of not holding any step too long.
3. Ripple gets kinda high, but quickly falls off over 50%. That is expected. Ripple is highest at 50% throttle because it is a measurement of the difference of input voltage when the MOSFETs are turned on and when they are turned off. When it is at 50% throttle the time of on vs off is equal so the capacitors have the most time to drop in voltage and the most time to regain voltage.
4. The voltage is fairly stable until you get to full throttle and then it drops off by 6 volts. Adding input caps will not help with this drop off, but will slow down the rate at which it happens. The voltage reading happens in between phase transitions so the voltage is stable at low throttle, but it drops off as the battery struggles to output that much amperage. The only way to lower the amount of drop(and raise the final RPM of the motor) is to use higher C rated batteries.
5. The temperature reading continues to rise after the current drops off. This reading is done by the internal sensor in the microprocessor. The microprocessor is mounted on a thin PCB that is soldered to the back of the main power board. The heat from the mosfets has to travel through 2 different PCBs and a chip before it shows up on the sensor. With the thermal mass of the waterproofing and the heatsink, it can take a while to show up how hot the mosfets actually are(they most likely got 5-10 degrees hotter, but it's not a big deal).
Click to expand...


Great breakdown Robert, and thank you for taking the time to educate the community here.
 
vpr5793 said:
Gah I want one of these. I just wish that the 1512 was a 6/8s motor. The 1515 runs way too hot in the Mojave.
Click to expand...
Get a TP4040 if you want a 1515 sized motor. If you can fit larger then go for a 4050, 4060, or 4070!
gotnitro said:
Glad I bought 2, I see they are $419 everywhere now and BO'd forever.. Bought mine for $389 ea.
Click to expand...
the MMX8s? I paid $210.00
I think there was 2 on eBay still as of a few days ago...
 
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