Motor brace needed with 6s?

[Velodromed]

I use an o-ring to brace the motor on my 3s cars and am wondering what y’all use on your 6s cars to brace the motor. Or is it needed even? It’s for a Notorious.
Thanks!

 

[Tex Koder]

How much gap is there between motor and chassis plate?

 

[Velodromed]

How much gap is there between motor and chassis plate?

Not sure yet but think around a cm or so. The last thing I needed were bearings and I just got those, so hoping to get it mostly togethor this weekend. Then I’ll pull out the calipers and check. I know there’s a gap and Ive seen it mentioned on more than one video, so I’m just curious if it’s something to worry about or not. I will be jumping the Noto for sure…

 

[Tex Koder]

Okay.. so what's the diameter of the motor?
Let me know. I'll draft up something and have the shape ready.. so once you can get an accurate measure of the gap I can design some kind of support for your motor.

 

[Velodromed]

Okay.. so what's the diameter of the motor?
Let me know. I'll draft up something and have the shape ready.. so once you can get an accurate measure of the gap I can design some kind of support for your motor.

Seriously? That is fantastic! Of course I’m happy to cover the cost and shipping. I can’t find anything on eBay Amazon etc to my surprise.

It’s the stock Noto motor, 4074. I’ll get a space measurement to you once I have it. Again, thank you!

 

[Tex Koder]

Got it.

I'll draft up something..

 

[Gdub34]

Non brace but you do need motor cooling fans or retard the motor timing

 

[L3phturn]

Non brace but you do need motor cooling fans or retard the motor timing

I use cheap fan mounts to also support the motor. Below was before I had it set up well enough and ripped the fan off, but you can see the aluminum C type brackets I use. The bottom side takes up the gap.

 

[arrmamitch1]

How much gap is there between motor and chassis plate?

I think depend of your chassis flex but if it’s very stiff 1/16 of an inch.

 

[Tex Koder]

Here's a very rough draft of what I'm thinking of ,for your motor support-brace..

The underside-thickness will be adjusted once I have your exact specs.

And, depending on how you intend to hold it in place-
1. I can leave the bottom surface plain flat so you can just use double-side tape to hold it in place.. Or,
2. if you prefer to use M3 flathead screws I can design in space for brass fittings to more securely mount the brace to your chassis. Just let me know what you want it.

 

[L3phturn]

That is great! And it will work for any 40 diameter motor. My biggest concern is the plastic inhibiting cooling. I would suggest cutting the height of the sides down by 50% if that is reasonable.

 

[Tex Koder]

That is great! And it will work for any 40 diameter motor. My biggest concern is the plastic inhibiting cooling. I would suggest cutting the height of the sides down by 50% if that is reasonable.

It's just the rough draft -mostly a simple mold, for dimensions- at this moment.
Once I have the actual specs, I am going to either "cut" into this mold to create cooling slats or have some kind of honeycomb or louvers vents..

Also, keep in mind-
There will be a "top half" to this mold... So I could integrate a Triple or even a Quad Fan(S) mount ,if the customer wants it.

The most interesting aspect of 3D printing is the original CAD source files, cause once you have that finalized...
You are only limited by what industrial "printer" you want to use/Pay for...
So technically I could send the same CAD files that I've made to print with thermoplastics to an industrial-level SLS printer and have the support-brace made out of stainless steel or titanium.

 

[Velodromed]

It's just the rough draft -mostly a simple mold, for dimensions- at this moment.
Once I have the actual specs, I am going to either "cut" into this mold to create cooling slats or have some kind of honeycomb or louvers vents..

Also, keep in mind-
There will be a "top half" to this mold... So I could integrate a Triple or even a Quad Fan(S) mount ,if the customer wants it.

The most interesting aspect of 3D printing is the original CAD source files, cause once you have that finalized...
You are only limited by what industrial "printer" you want to use/Pay for...
So technically I could send the same CAD files that I've made to print with thermoplastics to an industrial-level SLS printer and have the support-brace made out of stainless steel or titanium.

This is absolutely fantastic so far! I’m using one of infidels motor mounts so no need to integrate a motor mount into it for me…but that is a great idea as an option. Slotting or honeycomb in the base to allow for cooling is a great idea. I’m thinking screws would be best to secure it to the chassis and perhaps a zip tie or two to secure the motor to it? However I also have a thought that there should be a slight bit of give between the motor support and chassis so maybe Double sided tape? Or some kind of a rubber or silicon base of sorts between the support and the chassis?

It looks fantastic though and I should have a measurement today because I fitted the motor last night. I made more progress in 4 hours last night then I have this whole time lol. I told my step daughter to get her crafting projects set up on the living room floor, I took over the coffee table and we were up until 1 AM working on our individual projects. It was great

 

[jschlosser0405]

How about just an o-ring under the back of the motor?? I have had these on my 6s and 3/4s rigs since day one.

 

[Tex Koder]

This is absolutely fantastic so far!

I’m using one of infidels motor mounts so no need to integrate a motor mount into it for me…

but that is a great idea as an option. Slotting or honeycomb in the base to allow for cooling is a great idea. I’m thinking screws would be best to secure it to the chassis and perhaps a zip tie or two to secure the motor to it?
...

Thank you, sir.

And, Yes. I can absolutely design in some space for M3 Brass fittings (I have those brass fittings already.)
>> so you can use M3 flathead screws to secure it more firmly onto your chassis, not a problem.
Would that be acceptable?

...
However I also have a thought that there should be a slight bit of give between the motor support and chassis so maybe Double sided tape? Or some kind of a rubber or silicon base of sorts between the support and the chassis?
...

Certainly.
Let me know the total "gap" size. And, what thickness of your double-side tape or silicone pads..
I'll make sure to accommodate for its thickness in the final support-brace design.

...

It looks fantastic though and I should have a measurement today because I fitted the motor last night. I made more progress in 4 hours last night then I have this whole time lol. I told my step daughter to get her crafting projects set up on the living room floor, I took over the coffee table and we were up until 1 AM working on our individual projects. It was great

You are not alone in that...

I've told my two daughters ,"Please clean up your crafting tables... Daddy needs to use your location for some 'Glamour' product photoshoots..."
Many times!

 

[arrmamitch1]

Here's a very rough draft of what I'm thinking of ,for your motor support-brace..

View attachment 208680

The underside-thickness will be adjusted once I have your exact specs.

And, depending on how you intend to hold it in place-
1. I can leave the bottom surface plain flat so you can just use double-side tape to hold it in place.. Or,
2. if you prefer to use M3 flathead screws I can design in space for brass fittings to more securely mount the brace to your chassis. Just let me know what you want it.

You can’t determine the thickness of the two-side tape because it change depend of brand and other but the use of a flatscrew is a thing

Here's a very rough draft of what I'm thinking of ,for your motor support-brace..

View attachment 208680

The underside-thickness will be adjusted once I have your exact specs.

And, depending on how you intend to hold it in place-
1. I can leave the bottom surface plain flat so you can just use double-side tape to hold it in place.. Or,
2. if you prefer to use M3 flathead screws I can design in space for brass fittings to more securely mount the brace to your chassis. Just let me know what you want it.

The holder can be less long for lightness, just to hold motor back

You can’t determine the thickness of the two-side tape because it change depend of brand and other but the use of a flatscrew is a thing

The holder can be less long for lightness, just to hold motor back

I use an o-ring to brace the motor on my 3s cars and am wondering what y’all use on your 6s cars to brace the motor. Or is it needed even? It’s for a Notorious.
Thanks!

The o-ring help for up and down non-moving but not for left and right n-moving

 

[Tex Koder]

...
The o-ring help for up and down non-moving but not for left and right n-moving

That is absolutely correct!

An O-ring will ONLY help mediate "the Slap down" force -of the motor- against your chassis...
It does NOT do anything to help reduce/prevent your motor from experiencing any other jarring forces.. Such as when your rig goes into a major tumble, cartwheels, lawn darts backward from a 20-30ft sends, landing on its roof -pancake style, slamming into the curb -sideways etc etc. etc.
You get the idea.

>>> So having a dedicated motor support-brace not only protects the motor itself but it helps reduce your pinion gear from getting out of alignment to (and stripping/grinding at) the spur gear ,or bending your motor mount-plate.

Basically it "locks" your motor in place and keeping everything properly aligned.

...

The holder can be less long for lightness, just to hold motor back
...

The amount of thermoplastic used for this brace will probably be no more than 6-8oz Total.

You can’t determine the thickness of the two-side tape because it change depend of brand and other but the use of a flatscrew is a thing

...

I only need to know what double-side tape @Velodromed will be using..
This is a bespoke support-brace designed specifically for him.

Of course I can change/modify the design for other interested parties.
Or, I can Include different size shims to help with that concern -for an "universal" kit.



.

 

[arrmamitch1]

Absolutely

 

[Velodromed]

Thank you!

I love what you said about your daughters. My step-daughter is nine and we both love our hobbies, so we find separate spots somewhere in the house be it on the floor, table or at the workshop in the garage and try to do things together. This happens most when the Weeknd hits and she wants to stay late but momma needs to hit bed early. so I take over and have fun with the kid till late. Separate projects and interests yet interacting on both together

I am not sure about the bushings because I’ve never seen what they look like. Post a picture and I’ll have a visual. I’ll have to figure out what i want to pad it and how. Kinda not sure, What do you think? I also still need to measure and am nearly ready. But I’m doing 10 things at once this morning with the little monster so it’ll be a bit lol

 

[jschlosser0405]

I see where you are going now. I guess I have never had an issue with that. IMHO any lateral forces to the motor from darts/tumbles etc. would be a fraction of the force on the motor from a regular jump/chassis slap. The body, wheels, arms, bumpers.....all the plastic absorbs that force. The vertical force on the motor from normal chassis slapping is unavoidable, the energy has nowhere to go. I am running a PPS mount with o-rings on both HW 1650kv motors, along with o-ring on a corally 4068 and have never had any issues. I don't think I would want something blocking that much airflow around my motors. Or I could be totally off, that's why this hobby is great. Ton's of different ideas/experiences all going towards the same goal. Good luck.

.Sorry, somehow I screwed this message up. This is NOT a quote from Tex Koder. This is my opinion.