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Do you put them on the inside?no sir, personally I think the easiest thing you could do is just buy some nylon washers like I did and put them on the shock shaft. Takes like 5 minutes to do both shocks. There are multiple ways to skin a cat though!
https://www.amazon.com/QTEATAK-Assortment-Electrical-Connections-Commercial/dp/B092V26GQG
OutsideDo you put them on the inside?
From the pic it looks like they’re down in the spring retainer if that’s what it’s called. I’m going to try this myself as well. I run droop screws already but they’re digging into my chassis big time.Do you put them on the inside?
What kind of droop screws are you using?From the pic it looks like they’re down in the spring retainer if that’s what it’s called. I’m going to try this myself as well. I run droop screws already but they’re digging into my chassis big time.
Just regular M3 (maybe, can’t remember size) button heads.What kind of droop screws are you using?
Have you tried the M2C ones with the larger heads? They help tremendously on the 6s rigs, and it looks like you can put 2 in each arm on the 8s trucks, that's what I'm going to try anywaysJust regular M3 (maybe, can’t remember size) button heads.
The 8s arms have a weirdly small recess in them for droop screws. I used 2 each arm, 3mm SHCS screwed into the arms from the bottom side. They way they are recessed makes them a challenge to use anything with a larger head, and since there's 2 holes, hard to go any bigger than 3mm. I figured as the chassis wears from the heads of the screws, I wiil remove them and add washers to achieve proper droop.Have you tried the M2C ones with the larger heads? They help tremendously on the 6s rigs, and it looks like you can put 2 in each arm on the 8s trucks, that's what I'm going to try anyways
Inside the shock, under the piston between it and the shock body for droop (extension), outside of the shock body between the shock rod end and shock body to limit travel (compression). Over travel of the suspension in either compression or extension can cause driveshaft/drive cup issues.I’m likely going to move to the m2c chassis in the winter, so I’ll want to figure something better out by then. I saw someone on Facebook (I think) who put plastic washers on the outside of his shocks for droop. I think some others put a piece of nitro gas tubing on the inside of the shock for the same effect. I’m not sure what to do now aside from run it how it is
Ay, see, that's what I get for trying to diagnose a problem I never had, LOL.I think it's mainly compression and not extension. The only times I've ever had this happen to me it was from a compression events. Like doing a wheel with trencher tires. Never had it happen again after adding washers to outside of shocks and I've done nothing about the inside of the shocks or droop screws.
haha that's funny cause I don't think I've had that happen on an 8s rig but I've had it happen once on a kraton 6s. Are you cliping the tree with 1 arm or tire? you'd think the arm would break too with a hit bad enough to bend the pivot balls. Even my cartwheels from bad landings not enough to do thatAy, see, that's what I get for trying to diagnose a problem I never had, LOL.
I had the K8S out over the weekend for a couple packs. Had a blast, till I bent another pivot ball, my 3rd time, those trees jump right out in front of me, I swear!!
I straightened it out in the vice, again.. waiting for one to snap, gonna happen I know it.
Funny, no matter how many trees my brother and I hit with our 6s Arrma's, no problem, 8s, bent..same trees. Inertia can be a beotch!!
Yeah, one wheel tree strikes, my bro bent both upper and lower pivot balls and ripped the lower pin out of the suspension plates last year on his O8S. Strangely the arm didn't break! Had a chunk missing where the pin went through, egged out the arm pretty good. Trees are kinda unforgiving like that, LOL. So, while we don't "air" them out like most do with our bashers, they take some abuse. Tires and driveline take the most, aside from the tree strikes that is. I've been cutting alot of trees and brush to extend the track this year, got quite a bit to do, but the 8s Arrma's need room to flex. I'm working on it, even had the wife working out there last Saturday!!haha that's funny cause I don't think I've had that happen on an 8s rig but I've had it happen once on a kraton 6s. Are you cliping the tree with 1 arm or tire? you'd think the arm would break too with a hit bad enough to bend the pivot balls. Even my cartwheels from bad landings not enough to do that
I like M2C too, and they did warranty my drive too. However, the M2C uses a 3.5mm pin, and the Vitavon uses a 4mm. So I made the jump.I’m moving to M2C out drive shafts from their standard one. I think they did me a solid by honoring their warranty on the shafts with the replaceable pins versus the ones I originally bought (standard 310926). Looking forward to running them and seeing how they hold up considering my last ones didn’t last very long. Pins were worn down and some bendage as well. All totally my fault.
Edit: has anyone or does anyone currently run the 310926Cs on their rig? Looking for input on how long the replaceable pin last
How many should I add? I do like to send this thing in air. Btw I’m subscribed to your ytOutside
Only when you are landing nice and flat. When you land on one wheel, travel is exaggerated and the flex in the arms comes much more into play.Awesome, thanks a million. Going to replicate this myself.
I think this is a necessary mod - but I don't understand why..lol. Isn't shock compression already limited by chassis slamming the ground?
Sweet! I add like 8 of them!How many should I add? I do like to send this thing in air. Btw I’m subscribed to your yt
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