Kraton How to stop dust getting inside

[NewDudeHere]

Only after 1st run my kraton 6s become a dust magnet. I blowed of the tiny dust easily. Some most of it is stuck in tires like oil mud

Had clean it off the with old tooth brush. My question is are there any aftermarket mud guard or dust guards for kraton 6s?

Do i have clean it after every run? Or monthly? Or every 6months?

 

[calebgilmore]

I always hosed mine down and dried them off after every run. There are chassis bags out there for the mojave that could possibly work but you have to work around the body brace and dirt guards.

 

[Horatio]

Only after 1st run my kraton 6s become a dust magnet. I blowed of the tiny dust easily. Some most of it is stuck in tires like oil mud

Had clean it off the with old tooth brush. My question is are there any aftermarket mud guard or dust guards for kraton 6s?

Do i have clean it after every run? Or monthly? Or every 6months?

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I think it's a good idea to get a chassis shroud - it protects the fans and other rotating parts.

I don't recommend 'wetting' the rig to clean it. In my experience, it's better to blow/brush off the worst of the crap, then wipe down with a microfibre cloth and GT85 PTFE spray to protect anything ferrous and prevent stuff from sticking to the plastics.

The same methodology works for my large scale rig as well.

Little and often works best. Keep everything as clean as you reasonably can. Basically after every run and never allow to sit wet.

I say this after just blasting my Kronos XTR around in the rain!

 

[alienworkshop227]

Unfortunately It’s only new once… I like to blow mine out at least every two or three runs depending on where I’m running it.

 

[Horatio]

Unfortunately It’s only new once… I like to blow mine out at least every two or three runs depending on where I’m running it.

It depends how bad stuff gets at the time and how long between runs really. To keep stuff tip top, it should really be after every run - especially if it's wet.

My rigs look like new, but they're antique.

They work better, look nicer and are easier to maintain if kept as clean as possible.

Yes, I regularly get them filthy, but keeping them mint is as much a part of the hobby as blasting them around.

Regardless of all of the above - I'm not sure my wife would 'let' me bring them into the home - unless they are clean.

 

[GraniteFox]

Leaf blower + Silicone spray for the joints = Clean. Takes about 5 mins. If you run in mud or water its more like.... Hose + Leaf blower + Silicone = Clean. If you are really serious you can get a small air compressor to really get in those tight spots.

 

[Tex Koder]

Leaf blower + Silicone spray for the joints = Clean. Takes about 5 mins. If you run in mud or water its more like.... Hose + Leaf blower + Silicone = Clean. If you are really serious you can get a small air compressor to really get in those tight spots.

Agreed.



Air compressor
Does the trick Everytime for me..

 

[NewDudeHere]

Leaf blower + Silicone spray for the joints = Clean. Takes about 5 mins. If you run in mud or water its more like.... Hose + Leaf blower + Silicone = Clean. If you are really serious you can get a small air compressor to really get in those tight spots.

Excatly i did this, i blowed it with leaf blower and most of the tiny dust went away and rubbed the remaing dust with soft brush.


Can i use this threadmill silicon spray? And where should i spray this? At wheels joints? Where the jojns move?

Should i brush off the silicon spray after spraying it? Or skeep the silcon oil?

 

[Tex Koder]

Excatly i did this, i blowed it with leaf blower and most of the tiny dust went away and rubbed the remaing dust with soft brush.


Can i use this threadmill silicon spray? And where should i spray this? At wheels joints? Where the jojns move?

Should i brush off the silicon spray after spraying it? Or skeep the silcon oil?

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Using the silicone spray Sparingly on the joints will be fine.
Don't need to soak them.

I tend to use WD-40 DRY Lube spray.

 

[NewDudeHere]

Using the silicone spray Sparingly on the joints will be fine.
Don't need to soak them.

do i have to brush it off after spraying or leave it?

 

[Horatio]

do i have to brush it off after spraying or leave it?

silicone will form a thicker, wetter layer that may collect dust and dirt. PTFE will have a thinner, yet harder layer that will not attract dust or absorb grime.

This is why I get GT85 - it's excellent for cleaning, displacing water and making plastics look nice.

 

[Tex Koder]

do i have to brush it off after spraying or leave it?

Leave it.
Because it's formulated for bicycle chains and sprokets.

Works perfectly on RCs too.

 

[Horatio]

do i have to brush it off after spraying or leave it?

With PTFE - spray, wipe, spray again and leave it.

 

[NewDudeHere]

silicone will form a thicker, wetter layer that may collect dust and dirt. PTFE will have a thinner, yet harder layer that will not attract dust or absorb grime.

This is why I get GT85 - it's excellent for cleaning, displacing water and making plastics look nice.

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im from india, so its not available here i will try to find similar items here

I think it's a good idea to get a chassis shroud - it protects the fans and other rotating parts.

wouldnt it trap the heat inside and fry the components? many complain on amazon reviews. if not i will defnitely buy one. thanks

 

[Horatio]

im from india, so its not available here i will try to find similar items here

wouldnt it trap the heat inside and fry the components? many complain on amazon reviews. if not i will defnitely buy one. thanks

The 'shroud traps heat and fries your electronics' is a fallacy. It restricts very little airflow but prevents debris from blocking your esc/motor fans. It's the lack of fans that kills your motors/ESC's quicker than anything, or running without them fitted in the first place.

I'll add that people over-gearing, using 6-8s on high KV motors should not be blamed on a shroud.

Excatly i did this, i blowed it with leaf blower and most of the tiny dust went away and rubbed the remaing dust with soft brush.


Can i use this threadmill silicon spray? And where should i spray this? At wheels joints? Where the jojns move?

Should i brush off the silicon spray after spraying it? Or skeep the silcon oil?

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On wheel joints, you should try and use a dry lube, otherwise you end up creating a grinding paste - lube mixed with grit and sand etc. Unless cvds/driveshafts/dogbones are booted - keep them lubed with dry lube.

For cleaning/finishing - as well as preventing dirt from sticking - you can't beat PTFE.

 

[NewDudeHere]

For cleaning/finishing - as well as preventing dirt from sticking - you can't beat PTFE.

can you tell which one to pick from below link

https://www.amazon.in/s?k=WD-40+PTFE&crid=15F0D1XYR6U0&sprefix=wd-40+ptfe,aps,201&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

wd india site
https://wd40.in/product/

whichone should i use?

 

[Horatio]

can you tell which one to pick from below link

https://www.amazon.in/s?k=WD-40+PTFE&crid=15F0D1XYR6U0&sprefix=wd-40+ptfe,aps,201&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

wd india site
https://wd40.in/product/

whichone should i use?

The one with PTFE.

 

[Horatio]

As I needed to do a quick clean and maintenance session, I thought I'd document it here with 'you guys' (and 'you girls').

To start with, here's the chassis with the wheels off. This is following a wet run on a hard, bonded surface with puddles and grime.

The shroud prevents the majority of crud from getting into the centre of the chassis, which is a major bonus.

Cleaning cannot commence properly until after the rig is dry. Blow with compressed air, leaf blower or aerosol air. When it's dry as shown here, you can brush (with a small paint brush or similar

PJ supervises all work on the XTR.

Cleaning isn't just about making stuff pretty. It's about detecting potential issues early. Here you can see centre diff fluid.

Screws from diff were suitably degreased into rag and cleaner, then had thread lock applied.

All 8 screws were removed and thread-locked. The diff was cleaned and the teeth given an application of PTFE and left to dry.

Loctite 243 is about as strong as you need if you want straight forward hand tool disassembly next time.

The POS protectors prevent a lot of dirt from getting into the shocks and driveshafts. Not only that, they deflect the projectiles thrown up from the front tyres, which are effectively bullets. These would otherwise damage components like shockshafts and turnbuckles.

Full chassis clean following vacuum and wipe down. PTFE was used on all dogbones and front CVD's.

POS mudguards now clean.

Underside of rig cleaned.

The upshot of all this cleaning is the rig now has a 16t pinion fitted to the 4292 1780kv motor. I'm confident of beating 0-60mph in 3.79secs and 64mph.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Leaf blower + Silicone spray for the joints = Clean. Takes about 5 mins. If you run in mud or water its more like.... Hose + Leaf blower + Silicone = Clean. If you are really serious you can get a small air compressor to really get in those tight spots.

I'm not the only one that uses a leaf blower ey.
I can't stand rusty screws and hinge pins etc. When I clean them I always use my little sthl leaf blower to make sure its all good n dry.
Gives me an excuse to use it. Was my grandpas and I cut all my trees down so don't have any leaves around here anymore

 

[Captain Blaster]

As I needed to do a quick clean and maintenance session, I thought I'd document it here with 'you guys' (and 'you girls').

To start with, here's the chassis with the wheels off. This is following a wet run on a hard, bonded surface with puddles and grime.

View attachment 332314

The shroud prevents the majority of crud from getting into the centre of the chassis, which is a major bonus.View attachment 332316
Cleaning cannot commence properly until after the rig is dry. Blow with compressed air, leaf blower or aerosol air. When it's dry as shown here, you can brush (with a small paint brush or similarView attachment 332319
PJ supervises all work on the XTR.
View attachment 332320
Cleaning isn't just about making stuff pretty. It's about detecting potential issues early. Here you can see centre diff fluid.

View attachment 332322
Screws from diff were suitably degreased into rag and cleaner, then had thread lock applied.

View attachment 332323
All 8 screws were removed and thread-locked. The diff was cleaned and the teeth given an application of PTFE and left to dry.
View attachment 332324
Loctite 243 is about as strong as you need if you want straight forward hand tool disassembly next time.
View attachment 332326
The POS protectors prevent a lot of dirt from getting into the shocks and driveshafts. Not only that, they deflect the projectiles thrown up from the front tyres, which are effectively bullets. These would otherwise damage components like shockshafts and turnbuckles.
View attachment 332327
Full chassis clean following vacuum and wipe down. PTFE was used on all dogbones and front CVD's.
View attachment 332328
POS mudguards now clean.

View attachment 332329
Underside of rig cleaned.

The upshot of all this cleaning is the rig now has a 16t pinion fitted to the 4292 1780kv motor. I'm confident of beating 0-60mph in 3.79secs and 64mph.

Wow, very thorough. Thank you!! Good job, PJ!