Felony Drag Time List - Personal Bests of the Forum

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K-BASH said:
One of these reciprocaters tools work awesome for removing it

View attachment 301428
Could always replace shocks on front for turnbuckles..remove 100+ grams off nose...lighter is better in dragging
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Done with this now my hand is tired lol

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Is a higher kv motor like a 1650 or a 2200 really better for drag VS a 1100kv motor?
I would think that lower kv would be good since motors have more torque at lower RPMs but all the people at the tops of the lists have higher kv motors.

Also is there an advantage of running sensored? I know in the 1/10 2wd space most people run sensored but I see that the top times are with TPs. I know that it gives the ESC info on how the motor is spinning so it can run smoothly.
 
TN-RC said:
Is a higher kv motor like a 1650 or a 2200 really better for drag VS a 1100kv motor?
I would think that lower kv would be good since motors have more torque at lower RPMs but all the people at the tops of the lists have higher kv motors.

Also is there an advantage of running sensored? I know in the 1/10 2wd space most people run sensored but I see that the top times are with TPs. I know that it gives the ESC info on how the motor is spinning so it can run smoothly.
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High KV motors spin fast with lower voltage input. Drag racing is about speed and weight ratio. The lower your motor KV, means you need to use a bigger pinion gear and also bigger batteries to make it spin as fast as a higher Kv motor using less voltage. For instance, a 6500 KV motor will reach Max revolutions on a 2s battery. On the flip side, a 2200 KV motor will reach Max revolutions on 6s. I've had hit a hundred miles per hour with my limitless with both a 3800 KV motor and also 2200 Kv motor. I reckon it comes down to personal preference with the 2200 KV motor being The Sweet spot.

As far as sensored motors and ESC's goes, I believe it gets rid of the cogging that uncensored motors experience when you first start off. In the game of drag racing when a 10th of a second matters, having a sensored verse unsensored motor makes a big difference.

With that being said, I'm still a green horn to this game so take what I say with a grain of salt. I'm sure more experienced people will chime in soon.
 

@DaSL0WNESS and @RedondoBeachRC you guys are the drag pro's here, do you have anything to say about this?​

I have a 1100kv 2028 that I got with a XLX2 from someone, and I was going to use it for drag. I was thinking a big, low kv motor should be fast, but I am seeing that most of you (and all that are at the top) are using 17## castles or 40## TP motors with 1500kv-2500kv.
I am trying to decide if I sell it and get a 1717 1650kv or use the Hobbywing 1650kv i have. The problems with it regardless of the kv is it weighs 1.25kg vs 550g, it is so big I have to flip the motor mount so I will have only 1 battery box, and it has an 8mm shaft so I will have to buy all new gears.
 
TN-RC said:
Is a higher kv motor like a 1650 or a 2200 really better for drag VS a 1100kv motor?
I would think that lower kv would be good since motors have more torque at lower RPMs but all the people at the tops of the lists have higher kv motors.

Also is there an advantage of running sensored? I know in the 1/10 2wd space most people run sensored but I see that the top times are with TPs. I know that it gives the ESC info on how the motor is spinning so it can run smoothly.
Click to expand...

Guess its really all just how you like to gear and tune. There's some that prefer 3000+kv on the 1/8 and 1/7s. I've never tried higher than 2200 myself yet.

I built a low kv car for someone but have never heard any times on it since. Cant say I really know of any in the 1.5s or faster with less than 1700kv.
TN-RC said:

@DaSL0WNESS and @RedondoBeachRC you guys are the drag pro's here, do you have anything to say about this?​

I have a 1100kv 2028 that I got with a XLX2 from someone, and I was going to use it for drag. I was thinking a big, low kv motor should be fast, but I am seeing that most of you (and all that are at the top) are using 17## castles or 40## TP motors with 1500kv-2500kv.
I am trying to decide if I sell it and get a 1717 1650kv or use the Hobbywing 1650kv i have. The problems with it regardless of the kv is it weighs 1.25kg vs 550g, it is so big I have to flip the motor mount so I will have only 1 battery box, and it has an 8mm shaft so I will have to buy all new gears.
Click to expand...

If you're gonna run dry tire the xlx2 will be fine. They are tricky for prep. Honestly the motor choice is gonna depend on the type of racing you'll be doing.. prep or no prep.

I myself run and prefer the Cordova 1445 2000kv for my main race car. Its a torque monster that doesn't pull a ton of amps and doesn't really care what gearing you throw at it.

And just because you flip the motor doesn't mean you still have to run batteries on 1 side. Even with a limitless ;)
 
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DaSL0WNESS said:
Guess its really all just how you like to gear and tune. There's some that prefer 3000+kv on the 1/8 and 1/7s. I've never tried higher than 2200 myself yet.

I built a low kv car for someone but have never heard any times on it since. Cant say I really know of any in the 1.5s or faster with less than 1700kv.


If you're gonna run dry tire the xlx2 will be fine. They are tricky for prep. Honestly the motor choice is gonna depend on the type of racing you'll be doing.. prep or no prep.

I myself run and prefer the Cordova 1445 2000kv for my main race car. Its a torque monster that doesn't pull a ton of amps and doesn't really care what gearing you throw at it.

And just because you flip the motor doesn't mean you still have to run batteries on 1 side. Even with a limitless ;)
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Dose it hurt you not sensored at all?
 
TN-RC said:

@DaSL0WNESS and @RedondoBeachRC you guys are the drag pro's here, do you have anything to say about this?​

I have a 1100kv 2028 that I got with a XLX2 from someone, and I was going to use it for drag. I was thinking a big, low kv motor should be fast, but I am seeing that most of you (and all that are at the top) are using 17## castles or 40## TP motors with 1500kv-2500kv.
I am trying to decide if I sell it and get a 1717 1650kv or use the Hobbywing 1650kv i have. The problems with it regardless of the kv is it weighs 1.25kg vs 550g, it is so big I have to flip the motor mount so I will have only 1 battery box, and it has an 8mm shaft so I will have to buy all new gears.
Click to expand...

I’m currently testing this idea out. On the 1/7 scale cars the popular KV are 2200-2900 on 8S.
I’m testing a 1721-1800 Posiedon motor.

Interesting thing about these higher KV motors are they require a ton of amps to pull which causes voltage sag. This voltage sag helps the car launch with less wheel spin and then once the amps decline and the voltage recovers and the high kv will give the car that bump of RPM. However, this is hard on the electronics.

Going fast in drag is all about traction and reducing wheel spin.

So while a lower KV will give you more torque, however, you have to be able to use it without the wheels slipping as the car can now break traction a lot easier.
 
TN-RC said:

@DaSL0WNESS and @RedondoBeachRC you guys are the drag pro's here, do you have anything to say about this?​

I have a 1100kv 2028 that I got with a XLX2 from someone, and I was going to use it for drag. I was thinking a big, low kv motor should be fast, but I am seeing that most of you (and all that are at the top) are using 17## castles or 40## TP motors with 1500kv-2500kv.
I am trying to decide if I sell it and get a 1717 1650kv or use the Hobbywing 1650kv i have. The problems with it regardless of the kv is it weighs 1.25kg vs 550g, it is so big I have to flip the motor mount so I will have only 1 battery box, and it has an 8mm shaft so I will have to buy all new gears.
Click to expand...

Your drag car should be as light as possible. This will help take some strain off the drivetrain and possibly load off the electronics.

Consider something like a TP4060SVM 21XXkv motor. You’ll have a small, light weight package and KV that could be used for a variety of situations should you not wanna drag race.

You can even get it in 5mm shaft so you’ll have pinion options.

The 1650 would be a good motor too
 
RedondoBeachRC said:
Your drag car should be as light as possible. This will help take some strain off the drivetrain and possibly load off the electronics.

Consider something like a TP4060SVM 21XXkv motor. You’ll have a small, light weight package and KV that could be used for a variety of situations should you not wanna drag race.

You can even get it in 5mm shaft so you’ll have pinion options.

The 1650 would be a good motor too
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What about the TP 4060-CM (2080KV) even? It is only $160 vs $220.
 
TN-RC said:
What about the TP 4060-CM (2080KV) even? It is only $160 vs $220.
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I’m torn between the two too lol

I’m like “it’s only $60 more” lol but $60 can buy me a lot of cheeseburgers
 
TN-RC said:
Thanks for the help guys.
D0 you guys run a gyro?
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I run a use a gyro but same concept for speedrunning, you gotta have your suspension setup good from the start.

I use either Futaba GYC or Yokomo V4

I’d stay away from the 2 pole. Truthfully, even the BLX2050 works fine on 8S with a MMX8 or XLX2
Here’s my current build I’m working on..

MMX8s
1721-1800kv Posiedon Motor
44t spool
25t pinion
Stock diffs (43/13 - 1mill F and 500k R)
RamJam’s Ti dogbones
Futaba GYC
BSR XXpink
(2) 4S Azure LiPo Batteries
DRG wheelie Bar
Scorched Input Cups

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Update on pootie tang. I put on vendetta arms on the typhon with hot racing aluminum hubs front and rear. Hot racing diffs and diff yikes f/r. Hot racing pivot balls, and the low profile xxpink bsr. Rcawd shocks. Gonna be testing it soon she should be quick!
 

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