Big Rock Arrma Big Rock BLX V3 Motor Upgrade

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Those are the white springs. They have a lighter spring rate than the yellow springs. The color designation is for different spring rates. You have to know your spring rates. The brand doesn't matter, it's the spring rate that will determine how they perform. (Plus you have to get the right length and width of course)

You want springs for added weight, so you don't want lighter springs. The yellow springs KLA912000 recommended are the stiffest set for the RC8B3. They work very well on 3s Arrmas.
 
I got the shocks today and they are perfect!!! I really appreciate the recomendation!
Thank you Kla912000! I have another question. I just now received my new hot racing fan for my upgraded motor. The HR fan power connector is different from stock motor fan and does not appear to connect to the receiver. It came with an adapter to plug directly into my battery as a daisy chain, but I have a feeling this is not the best way to power the HR fan. Is it possible to connect the HR fan to the receiver? Is there a better way to connect my upgraded HR fan?

HR Fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VTR8V94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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FYI the last picture is the connector for my Spektrum 150A ESC. I have no idea what this black connector is for.
 
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The black connector that comes off of the ESC is used to either power a fan the same as plugging into the reciever, or it is used to plug in a programming card to program your ESC.

As far as the HR fan, plugging it into the battery is fine. But if you would rather plug it into the reciever or the black plug from the ESC then you can splice or solder a different plug onto your HR fan. If you have an old servo just cut the plug off and splice or solder it on to your fan wires then plug it into any open port on your reciever or plug it directly into the black plug that comes from the ESC. Very simple.
 
Got it. It sounds like for my current setup plugging it into the ESC is my best option. Do you know what adapter I would need to purchase?
 
I just looked at the link that you posted for the HR fan. The plug provided for the HR fan to plug into the battery is no different than using an adapter for you battery to ESC. It is never a good idea to use an adapter between the battery and ESC. Create too much resistance and heat and in turn will melt your wires or connectors. I would not recommend using that adapter to plug your fan into the battery. Your best bet would be to use an old servo plug and splice or solder it onto your new fan wires.
 
I just looked at the link that you posted for the HR fan. The plug provided for the HR fan to plug into the battery is no different than using an adapter for you battery to ESC. It is never a good idea to use an adapter between the battery and ESC. Create too much resistance and heat and in turn will melt your wires or connectors. I would not recommend using that adapter to plug your fan into the battery. Your best bet would be to use an old servo plug and splice or solder it onto your new fan wires.
That’s what I was thinking about the adapter. Thanks for confirming . What about plugging into Spektrum ESC?
 
Got it. It sounds like for my current setup plugging it into the ESC is my best option. Do you know what adapter I would need to purchase?
That’s what I was thinking about the adapter. Thanks for confirming . What about plugging into Spektrum ESC?
Any JR/Futaba style servo plug will work. A simple red JST plug will also work. Plugging it directly into the black plug from the ESC is fine. That is the way the stock Arrma 3s 4x4 BLX models come from the factory. They plug the fan into the ESC plug. It is a lot easier than trying to route and plug the fan into the reciever and fitting the extra wire into the reciever box
 
Any JR/Futaba style servo plug will work. A simple red JST plug will also work. Plugging it directly into the black plug from the ESC is fine. That is the way the stock Arrma 3s 4x4 BLX models come from the factory. They plug the fan into the ESC plug. It is a lot easier than trying to route and plug the fan into the reciever and fitting the extra wire into the reciever box
Perfect I found a spare. When I cut solder the wire, isn’t their a boot I can put over the solder and then heat up boot to protect solder? Do you know what I’m talking about? If so what is the name of the item and what gauge/size would I have to buy?

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Perfect I found a spare. When I cut solder the wire, isn’t their a boot I can put over the solder and then heat up boot to protect solder? Do you know what I’m talking about? If so what is the name of the item and what gauge/size would I have to buy?

View attachment 222091
Disregard question I found what I’m looking for. Thanks again!
 
Perfect I found a spare. When I cut solder the wire, isn’t their a boot I can put over the solder and then heat up boot to protect solder? Do you know what I’m talking about? If so what is the name of the item and what gauge/size would I have to buy?

View attachment 222091
Disregard question I found what I’m looking for. Thanks again!
You're talking about shrink wrap.

Shrink wrap works great. I use it all of the time.
 
I've tried many different motors for 1/10.4068-2650kv was my favorite.smallest 40mm motor,runs cool,40mm torque.runs great on 3s,screams on 6s.
Ran mine on 4s with 20t an a complete animal...used 2× 300 gram 3700mah 4s packs to keep it light an was very durable,light, fast an handled like a dream...decent runtime with 3700mah.just swap packs when 1st one hit lvc

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I've tried many different motors for 1/10.4068-2650kv was my favorite.smallest 40mm motor,runs cool,40mm torque.runs great on 3s,screams on 6s.
Ran mine on 4s with 20t an a complete animal...used 2× 300 gram 3700mah 4s packs to keep it light an was very durable,light, fast an handled like a dream...decent runtime with 3700mah.just swap packs when 1st one hit lvc

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Thanks for posting this. I’ve been thinking over going to a 40mm can.
 
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been thinking over going to a 40mm can.
I'm running the same 2650kv motor on my big rock with a 18t. No complaints. I did have to change out to the thicker Arrma motor plate after my original one bent, but i think the bend might have happened even with the stock motor. I currently run a fanless config, nice and silent! It can get toasty (160f) if i'm using alot of throttle (or running through grass), but that's also running without a fan and with pretty crunchy bearings :p

A fan would fix that problem in a jiffy. I'm just lazy! I definitely think it's a good motor for the 3s line. Got mine from banggood for $27 on a sale!
 
You're talking about shrink wrap.

Shrink wrap works great. I use it all of the time.
my motor heatsink with fan seems to be a tight fit but possibly still move when bashing. Any suggestions on what I can do to the HR motor heatsink to firmly keep it in place?
 
my motor heatsink with fan seems to be a tight fit but possibly still move when bashing. Any suggestions on what I can do to the HR motor heatsink to firmly keep it in place?
Shim it,I've used a piece of zip tie,slide it in between motor an HS
 
i was wondering the same thing

wouldnt the ziptie get soft/melt?
I imagine it would,I never had 1 melt..did it a few times cause HS where scratching tp cans up.nothing worse than a new scratched up tp motor
None of them dual fan heatsinks fit tight,then make a new motor look $hitty quik
 
i was wondering the same thing

wouldnt the ziptie get soft/melt?
Quick search online said the working temperature of those plastics is usually up to 185F. Which if you're running your motor that hot you have other issues. But that's the working range: you'd still have room beyond that until the softening or melting range. Seen plenty of pics on the forum of people using zipties to hold fans or heatsinks on as well. I think it should be fine. As long as you're using decent nylon made ones that werent from the dollar store or something.
 
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