Would using lock washers be as effective as using thread locker?

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norcalsc

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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton EXB
  3. Talion
  4. Typhon 6s
  5. Typhon 3s
I have a Kraton 6s EXB that I'm referring to in this question but it applies to all RC's. if you're like me and you are constantly tinkering and trying to get everything just right, i'm taking stuff apart and putting it back together again over and over again but I hate having to apply heat, clean my screws and reapply thread locker only to have to do it all over again.


🤬🤬🤬!!!!!


so here's my question,

On the sliding motor mount or anywhere TL needs to be applied, would using lock washers be as effective as using thread locker?
 
I have a Kraton 6s EXB that I'm referring to in this question but it applies to all RC's. if you're like me and you are constantly tinkering and trying to get everything just right, i'm taking stuff apart and putting it back together again over and over again but I hate having to apply heat, clean my screws and reapply thread locker only to have to do it all over again.


🤬🤬🤬!!!!!


so here's my question,

On the sliding motor mount or anywhere TL needs to be applied, would using lock washers be as effective as using thread locker?
Specifically on the slider i'd say yes
 
I have a Kraton 6s EXB that I'm referring to in this question but it applies to all RC's. if you're like me and you are constantly tinkering and trying to get everything just right, i'm taking stuff apart and putting it back together again over and over again but I hate having to apply heat, clean my screws and reapply thread locker only to have to do it all over again.


🤬🤬🤬!!!!!


so here's my question,

On the sliding motor mount or anywhere TL needs to be applied, would using lock washers be as effective as using thread locker?
you glue your bolts in?
 
Split washers and star washers are pretty good at holding screws in, IMHO. At least as good as blue threadlock.

Also, FYI, I don't clean the old thread lock off the screws. Never have. The new threadlock still works. If you really need to clean the old threadlock off, how are you getting it out of the screw hole?
 
The only time I clean it is if it goes through a ball joint and the screw is hard to pull out the hole due to the buildup. Example - the aluminum front hubs with the tie rod screws.
 
I have a Kraton 6s EXB that I'm referring to in this question but it applies to all RC's. if you're like me and you are constantly tinkering and trying to get everything just right, i'm taking stuff apart and putting it back together again over and over again but I hate having to apply heat, clean my screws and reapply thread locker only to have to do it all over again.


🤬🤬🤬!!!!!


so here's my question,

On the sliding motor mount or anywhere TL needs to be applied, would using lock washers be as effective as using thread locker?

To answer your question, yes, in some places, especially on a sliding motor plate, lock washers would be effective IF you change them out every few times you disassemble if you're using split ring lock washers as opposed to the Nord style. Split rings can be re-used, but the small ones you'd have to use on your RC would lose their "springyness" after a few uses, which is what allows them to function, so it'd get expensive in the long run. I prefer Nords over split rings, but they're more expensive, harder to find, and given how the function they might add too much thickness, requiring longer screws or possibly making them unusable depending on where you're needing them.

That said. If you're using Blue loctite (as you should be), you shouldn't be having that much trouble getting it apart, and you should never have to apply heat to remove Blue. If you are, you're probably using WAY too much. You only need a dab...it's just there to keep the screws from backing out, not to glue them in place.
 
The lock washers are hard, the aluminium not. Definitely going to leave marks on the slider. Go with a tiny bit of loctite.
 
As mentionned above. No need to heat if you're using a reasonable amount of blue threadlocker. That's the easiest and most convenient way IMO.
 
The lock washers are hard, the aluminium not. Definitely going to leave marks on the slider. Go with a tiny bit of loctite.
You should always place a flat washer under the lock washer.


I actually use lock washers on a lot of my motors.
 
Imo Lock washers do add a preload to the surface area but still leave a gap on the threads. Thread lock fills the gap which also prevents moisture from getting in. Very useful on bolts that may get wet.
You should always place a flat washer under the lock washer.


I actually use lock washers on a lot of my motors.
When using a flat washer under the spring washer, it helps if the flat washer is softer so the split washer can dig in to hold better.

Lock washers with internal teeth work better on smaller bolts because it gives more surfaces that are under tension.

But with either style the only part holding tension is the bolt head, where the thread lock bolt is contacted on the threads.
 
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You should always place a flat washer under the lock washer.


I actually use lock washers on a lot of my motors.
Yes, this, both.

I try to never use a lock washer (split or serrated) without a flat washer.
I prefer Nords over split rings,

I have not seen those, had to google them. Looks intresting.
 
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