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Throw a few cuss words in...always seems to help.Most likely.
Grab a ball pin rubber hammer and hold the wheel whilst you give that hub a good smack. should pop right off.
tried that, looks like the pin is indeed stuck in the plastic wheel hex (can't think of anything else). Will probably break the wheel if I smack any harder but might be the only solution.Most likely.
Grab a ball pin rubber hammer and hold the wheel whilst you give that hub a good smack. should pop right off.
yeah they are Sweep Terrain Crusher Belted Tyres, will try thatThat doesn't look like an Arrma wheel. Aftermarket perhaps? Arrma does make pretty good wheels for OE in my experience. Those look like some PowerHobby or Amazon no name wheels to me. Hard to believe the pin that secures the hex hub adapter could cause that kind of damage. I would use a heat gun from the outside face of the wheel and give it to it till the plastic softens up enough to yank it off. Then throw those crappy wheels in the trash and start over.
Wheel doesn't seem to be coming off,
anyone else had this issue before?
Could it be to do with the wheel hex pin getting stuck in the wheel? (grub screw was tight and has been removed just to note).
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+1Throw your purse at it….
In all seriousness-Arrma hexes are notorious for tearing up Arrma wheels.. they’re super thin as compared to other manufacturers, unless you get the increased width units.. Rock the wheel inter-sec-tion-a-ly compared to the axle stub shaft, while pulling, and it’ll pop right off.
+1
Or get the M2C ones. Fatter hexes... Been there. My new V1 Lim out the box needed a Car large impact gun/17mm impact socket just to get the nuts off. 3 of 4. And then the same happened. The wheels were imbedded into the hexes. What a bear it was.
Mine was new and unused so, Arrma/HH replaced all the hubs, BB's every single part on 3 corners. Wheels etc. Much was damaged. Not just the wheels.
Talk about bad QC..... They clearly use Power tools to build these at the factory at a fast pace. The wheels were on so tight that they wouldn't even rotate. First thing I noticed out the box. Should roll easily, because it is a Roller.
I never had any of the Arrma issues or anything with my MT410. Tekno doesn't cheap out . Tekno spoiled me.
They’re done that way on race vehicles as a tuning option to increase, or decrease track width. The reason I brought it up was specifically to contrast how Arrma uses already thin hexes, then takes material AWAY exactly where it’s needed most, making them even thinner, which is what causes the exact problem we’re discussing in this thread. I don’t care who makes the hexes, as long as they’re not chamfered. As I stated in my replies to the OP; I happened to have both vehicles on my bench in front of me, so it was a very simple, and easily documented comparison/explanation.I guess I fail to see how a nice wide hex adapter benefits anything if the mating surface in the wheel is too shallow to make use of the wide hex?
Yes, the K6 hexes are ridiculously narrow, I have no idea why Arrma did that. The cheapest and easiest remedy I know of is to buy the Arrma hex adapters for the FT. I picked mine from JRC for like $15. Direct fit, much wider than K6 hexes, in stock at JRC right now too.
I can understand the tuning options. But Arrma doesn't make them skinny acrossed the board on all, just the Kraton. Why, who knows. Easy fix though with the FT hexes. I think the hexes on the Mojave are wider than the K6 IIRC. Weird indeed.They’re done that way on race vehicles as a tuning option to increase, or decrease track width. The reason I brought it up was specifically to contrast how Arrma uses already thin hexes, then takes material AWAY exactly where it’s needed most, making them even thinner, which is what causes the exact problem we’re discussing in this thread. I don’t care who makes the hexes, as long as they’re not chamfered. As I stated in my replies to the OP; I happened to have both vehicles on my bench in front of me, so it was a very simple, and easily documented comparison/explanation.
They do on my Talion that I posted photos of as well… Not sure what else-I assume any of the off road 6s EXB line that shares driveline components with the Kraton. In any case, their engineers should be smacked for that nonsense.I can understand the tuning options. But Arrma doesn't make them skinny acrossed the board on all, just the Kraton. Why, who knows. Easy fix though with the FT hexes. I think the hexes on the Mojave are wider than the K6 IIRC. Weird indeed.
I stand corrected, I was just looking at different Arrma 6s hub adapters, aside from the FT, BR and new K6EXB, the others all have the thinner hexes.They do on my Talion that I posted photos of as well… Not sure what else-I assume any of the off road 6s EXB line that shares driveline components with the Kraton. In any case, their engineers should be smacked for that nonsense.
Here ya go.. MUCH better than the Talion/Kraton/maybe more, but that stupid chamfer just kills me… That should NEVER be done on that application, period. So they at least gain some very much needed width, but still removed material where it’s needed most; where it resides inside a plastic wheel.
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