Typhon Typhon TLR - A Weekend Racer

[bullanthony]

Word of note....
My TLRT "Roller" came equipped with thinner 7k/10k/7k recommended diff oils. As per the "Roller"version manual.
The RTR TLRT Manual clearly shows 10k/100k/10k is now factory installed. Way too thick for confined technical track driving.
Arrma clearly drifted away from the "Race Ready" theme, once they went to the RTR TLRT variant. I bet to simplify mass production, save some coin, using 10/100/10 across the board. Of course if racing any version of the TLRT, Roller or RTR, a racer will absolutely go over the diffs anyway. The TLRT needs a Sensored ESC/Motor to even try to compete with other Track kit brands. The TLRT is still a pound heavier than most any other true racer platform. Leaving the Plastic Fr and Rr braces in place is a benefit for sure. Lighter than alloy. Most track guys don't race with alloy braces. They want some added Flex across the chassis. A benefit for traction. Some will even loosen up the rear brace chassis screw to get even more added chassis flex. A tuning aid this way.
BTW, Arrma-RC.com is showing an October/2023 availability date for the Roller TLRT variant. The best way to buy the TLRT Typhon, as a Roller, IMHO.
I thought it was discontinued altogether.
The TLRT is not best for hard bashing and 6s packs. Buy the standard RTR Typhon if for just bashing. Maybe just upgrade to the TLRT chassis if anything. And then maybe the TLRT shocks.
The adjustable Pill Mounts are quite fragile and break easily if bashing. The Hinge pins are shorter as well. Been there. More a liability for plain bashing. A PIA if you ask me. Bashers will never use the Pill mount adjustability anyway.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/1-8-tlr-tuned-typhon-4x4-roller-buggy-pink-purple/ARA8306.html#

Yeah I was looking at all videos and roller’s came with basically empty diffs i had planned on checking them out anyways, read the manual and was like dang 100k? Really?

 

[CosmoM3]

Yeah I was looking at all videos and roller’s came with basically empty diffs i had planned on checking them out anyways, read the manual and was like dang 100k? Really?

The 100K center diff was actually not too bad. It still manages to lift and balloon the front tires up when I switched down to 10K in the center. 100K felt overall slightly less nimble, but hauled serious ass.

 

[SrC]

^^^
Depends if you are bashing your Typhon on 6s or Racing on a confined technical track with 4s packs.
FWIW, if racing, it is best to use very thin oils, even thinner than 7/10/7. And gear it for 35mph max, give or take. Low end torque with thin oils will get the best Lap times. Best control. A good "starting point" for most tracks. Tires and driver skill is the rest of the equation. Diffing out is bad for technical driving. If you can avoid that.
The Typhon in general tends to push because of the Pivot ball suspension. Baller platforms normally do this. C-Hub chassis' less so. Dropping to 3k in the rear will offset some of that Push. Gaining more ON throttle steering in the turns. And like I stated above, Sensored electrics are a must, to compete or get best Lap times, if just practice lapping.

 

[CosmoM3]

^^^
Depends if you are bashing your Typhon on 6s or Racing on a confined technical track with 4s packs.
FWIW, if racing, it is best to use very thin oils, even thinner than 7/10/7. And gear it for 35mph max, give or take. Low end torque with thin oils will get the best Lap times. Best control. A good "starting point" for most tracks. Tires and driver skill is the rest of the equation. Diffing out is bad for technical driving. If you can avoid that.
The Typhon in general tends to push because of the Pivot ball suspension. Baller platforms normally do this. C-Hub chassis' less so. Dropping to 3k in the rear will offset some of that Push. Gaining more ON throttle steering in the turns. And like I stated above, Sensored electrics are a must, to compete or get best Lap times, if just practice lapping.

Dropping it to 7K was "ok" and I preferred to keep it 10K in the center.

I actually went 10K, 10K and 7K for my TLR Typhon and it felt compliant both indoors and outdoors. I tested this thoroughly (I have multiple diffs with different weights of oil) and for my driving on this particular home track, I preferred going a tad heavier. Lighter oil is more forgiving at the expense of drive.

 

[BashingBrian]

@CosmoM3 .. Great write up, very informative with lots of detailed findings. I think I will test out some of the things you have done with shocks.
I'm about to build a pure tarmac street basher with an enclosed wheeled body, what would you suggest be a good starting point with shock oil weights.??

 

[CosmoM3]

@CosmoM3 .. Great write up, very informative with lots of detailed findings. I think I will test out some of the things you have done with shocks.
I'm about to build a pure tarmac street basher with an enclosed wheeled body, what would you suggest be a good starting point with shock oil weights.??

After you dial in the ride height and springs (in that order - rinse and repeat if the springs have too much or too little frequency), set your droop (those little screws closest to the chassis on the control arms). Go with the stock settings (for now) and dial those in to see how much your car shifts its weight around during accelerating, braking and cornering (this comes much later).

Then lastly, you dial in the shock oil weights for this exercise based on your needs. I can get away with 30wt shock oil front and rear for E-Buggy racing since the suspension is dialed in, but this is entirely based on other factors like your overall weight (make sure the battery + body + everything is installed).

I would start with the stock shock weight oil that's on the TLR and go over some pebbles and asphalt and see how much the chassis bounces. If the chassis starts to hop, your shock oil is too thick - this is one of the many reasons why a 1/8 GT on-road car will lose traction by skidding/hopping during braking/accelerating. Just test this going back and forth (cornering will come later). It doesn't even have to be fast. My advice for this is to put your camera phone on the ground in slow-mo in front of some imperfections on the road and watch how the car's chassis reacts. If you see the suspension move up and down and the chassis stays relatively flat, then you're golden - you're ready to move on. If the car "hops" and unbalances the car, then the shock oil is too heavy.

You want the chassis to be as boring as possible.

For cornering, focus on your roll centers (alignment, roll bars, etc). You're done with your shocks/spring package and you don't have to touch them again unless you drastically change the weight of the car, then you have to do it all over again.

 

[MetalMario]

First post here. I wanted to say thank you for compiling all of this. I am new to the hobby, started with a Kraton and realized I was much more interested in driver skill than the bash break repeat cycle. I got my typhon 6s for a song and have been working on converting it to a TLR. The only thing I am lacking now is the shocks but looks like I won't need them.

I had a question about the mugen seiki center driveshafts. On My car, the front fits perfectly, but the 84.5 is tight enough to see the bulkhead move back when the center diff is pushed down all the way. My chassis is not bent, but I may have gone a bit heavy on shimming the rear diff.

Just wanted to ask if you needed to do any modifications to the rear shaft. It looks like I have room to take a mm or so of material off the ends of the shaft if needed, but i'd like to keep "custom" parts to a minimum for ease of replacement.

 

[CosmoM3]

Just wanted to ask if you needed to do any modifications to the rear shaft. It looks like I have room to take a mm or so of material off the ends of the shaft if needed, but i'd like to keep "custom" parts to a minimum for ease of replacement.

It was just drop in for me.

If you’re just using a base Typhon 6S, you have to remember that your suspension hinge blocks are completely different compared to the TLR. Your shock towers are also different from the TLR as well.

I’m going to be frank - I would just get the TLR as converting the base Typhon 6S makes it more expensive than just buying the TLR. This is coming from someone that (had) both, but now just the TLR.

 

[MetalMario]

I want to say I am ~$150 to convert using parts from Jenny's. That netted me some spares for things that didn't really "need" converting. I traded something of essentially no value (for me at least) for the blx and that little money was worth not having to deal with marketplace, imo. I have the pill setup, towers, steering and rear linkage, wing, chassis, etc. But I agree that if starting new, its better to just get the TLR model to start.

My local track has no shortage of people suggesting I give up on this chassis and move to a Mugen or Tekno. I like that it has a bit of an underdog factor, seems incredibly durable, and parts are easy to come by at my LHS if needed in a pinch. I may go that route eventually but for now I want to see what I can get out of this thing.

Hopefully I will have my xr8 pro in tomorrow, my last area of weight reduction. Then I can work on getting the shocks set up correctly.

 

[CosmoM3]

My local track has no shortage of people suggesting I give up on this chassis and move to a Mugen or Tekno.

You have no idea how much gaslighting I've received about the same thing...

...then they drive it and it qualifies for A-MAIN, then they're quieter about it and start to respect the fact that "an ARRMA" was running on par with their pro Associated, Tekno, Mugen and Losi rigs. After that, I no longer get teased about it and see it as a tangible threat. It takes awhile to get there (weight reduction being a big one), but it can be done.

You're right about parts as they're plentiful and easy to fix.

 

[RobRun]

Thank you for taking the time to share this incredible build! I enjoyed reading about the way you progressed with your setup and weight-savings changes. Your dedication to making the TLRT competitive at your tracks is impressive.
I'm currently trying to decide between getting a TLRT roller or a race kit. Do you have an estimate on how much you have spent on modifications/upgrades to your TLRT (not including electronics) to get it to where it is now? Do you think a race kit would be a better value overall? Thanks in advance for any advice.