Senton Too much or too risky?

[Greengaunja]

Is there any reason to not have an XLX2 throttle line hooked up to B Link which is hooked up to PerfectPass before finally meeting the receiver? Can B Blink be hooked up to the AUX line if needed? To me it just seems to be alot tied to one channel. And yes, its a speed runner.

 

[neighborhater383ci]

I mean at any given point it should be either a pwm throttle input signal or whatever signal the b link uses to communicate. When you aren’t actively connected to the b link it’s just working as a pass through

 

[Greengaunja]

I mean at any given point it should be either a pwm throttle input signal or whatever signal the b link uses to communicate. When you aren’t actively connected to the b link it’s just working as a pass through

That's what I was thinking too. Just wasn't sure if anyone experienced problems or interference. Last year's fiasco saw my speed run season ended before it had a chance to start. So now I'm over analyzing every step to ensure I don't have a repeat for any reason. I'm determined to see the SentLess fully sent.

 

[neighborhater383ci]

Don’t think too hard about it or something simple might get overlooked, how it seems to be for me atleast

You’ve got this

 

[NitroK]

I'm determined to see the SentLess fully sent.

Skimmed reading the thread but this sentence put a smile on my face. All the best.

 

[sert rc]

If you have a laptop, it’s much better to use Castle Quick Connect instead of the B-Link. The download times for the data logs are very slow with the B-Link.

 

[Greengaunja]

If you have a laptop, it’s much better to use Castle Quick Connect instead of the B-Link. The download times for the data logs are very slow with the B-Link.

I do have CQC and laptop. The B-Link was for adjustments in the field. Maybe I should just invest in the cord that allows CQC hookups without having to open receiver box and disconnect esc from receiver. That headache was mostly why I wanted to put B-Link on it.

 

[sert rc]

I do have CQC and laptop. The B-Link was for adjustments in the field. Maybe I should just invest in the cord that allows CQC hookups without having to open receiver box and disconnect esc from receiver. That headache was mostly why I wanted to put B-Link on it.

The CQC does exactly that. Once installed, you don’t have to remove the ESC wire from the receiver. One end of the CQC is an open plug which then accepts the Castlelink. I just run that plug back out of the receiver box but keep the wire tucked in the box. After I use it, I tuck it back in.

If you are only using it for adjusting ESC settings, B-Link is the way to go, but if you are downloading data logs, CQC is the better solution. I run a B-link in my Kraton and the CQC in my Limitless.

 

[Greengaunja]

The CQC does exactly that. Once installed, you don’t have to remove the ESC wire from the receiver. One end of the CQC is an open plug which then accepts the Castlelink. I just run that plug back out of the receiver box but keep the wire tucked in the box. After I use it, I tuck it back in.

If you are only using it for adjusting ESC settings, B-Link is the way to go, but if you are downloading data logs, CQC is the better solution. I run a B-link in my Kraton and the CQC in my Limitless.

Youbm are right. I confused rhe CQC for the actual Link itself. LHS never had any but the techie said its a simple 3 way connection and he will have one for me tomorrow. Should have had one a long time ago. I have a tendency to overfill my receiver boxes to the point that its troublesome to open it up and repack it to close it back up. Currently it contains a R8FG receiver,(bigger than the R7FG), the BLink, and the PP speed module

 

[sert rc]

Youbm are right. I confused rhe CQC for the actual Link itself. LHS never had any but the techie said its a simple 3 way connection and he will have one for me tomorrow. Should have had one a long time ago. I have a tendency to overfill my receiver boxes to the point that its troublesome to open it up and repack it to close it back up. Currently it contains a R8FG receiver,(bigger than the R7FG), the BLink, and the PP speed module

I end up shortening all my wires so they don’t turn into a rats nest inside the receiver box. Also re-soldered my Perfect Pass so the wires come out the bottom and straight into the receiver box. This allows for easy adjustment without having to unscrew the box. I hit it with a hot glue gun to keep it in place.