Typhon SrC's TLRT Typhon Build

[SrC]

Wholeheartedly agree with this! I've seen someone driving alone in his car with one hand holding a scarf over his face - even with the windows up. Not only was it just completely pointless anyway, he left himself with just the one hand to drive

We get a lot of passive-aggressive moaners and whiners in the UK when they see someone in a store without a mask on. If they're that worried they shouldn't be out in public anyway! It's more like they try taking the moral high ground and think they have the audacity to exclaim it. I just think logic and reason really do leave people when they're in fear

Anyway, back to tinkering with my toys...

+1

 

[SrC]

Boyish good looks?...Well I like to play with Toys. It helps... Ty.
Yes the chassis was bowed up at the center out the box. I noticed that the RTR Stamped 6061 6s rig chassis sometimes are not perfectly flat and I accept that for the pricepoint these are. Just that The TLRT chassis played with my head at first. How could a CNC'd 7075 chassis be bowed I asked myself?
I put that thought on the shelf for a bit, then when I was checking screws and all and found a stripped front brace screw strippped at the St Top plate, I removed the screw and the chassis straigthened out some. Then I removed the rear plastic brace and the chassis was flat. So the plastic stockers were too long somewhere, ever so slight as it was. EXB braces dropped in, now no bow in the chassis.




Good to hear the chassis wasnt a problem. It didnt look like a big deal to begin with but good to know it was just a over tweaked thing and not a true bend.
Looking badass!

A stamped RTR chassis is rarely perfect out the box, from my experience. Everyone I checked out the box. I can accept that in a cheap chassis. Bashing will tweak them out slightly more anyway. Not tragic. Is what it is.
But a CNC'd 7075 chassis should be perfectly straight out the box. I was this close to having HH replace it. But it was just the poorly molded F/R braces that fit poorly. I would have preferred to keep Plastic Braces for the weight savings and some chassis flex which I wanted for this rig specifically.
Really stiff chassis have their Disadvantages. Track rigs usually benefit from some chassis flex. Mostly at the rear. But for Hard Bashing rigs, Stiffest chassis is best. I am considering getting this lighter TLRT chassis to replace my SWB Notorious stocker chassis. It's listed as an upgrade part for the Noto. That was Arrma's intention. Would it be better than a SWB EXB chassis??? I would like to see. Only JennysRC has them. None of the TLRT specific parts are available from HH yet. Been a while since the TLRT was released. What gives with this??? Are they sitting off the coast of Cali. in a container ship somewhere???

 

[N.Mango]

A stamped RTR chassis is rarely perfect out the box, from my experience. Everyone I checked out the box. I can accept that in a cheap chassis. Bashing will tweak them out slightly more anyway. Not tragic. Is what it is.
But a CNC'd 7075 chassis should be perfectly straight out the box. I was this close to having HH replace it. But it was just the poorly molded F/R braces that fit poorly. I would have preferred to keep Plastic Braces for the weight savings and some chassis flex which I wanted for this rig specifically.
Really stiff chassis have their Disadvantages. Track rigs usually benefit from some chassis flex. Mostly at the rear. But for Hard Bashing rigs, Stiffest chassis is best. I am considering getting this lighter TLRT chassis to replace my SWB Notorious stocker chassis. It's listed as an upgrade part for the Noto. That was Arrma's intention. Would it be better than a SWB EXB chassis??? I would like to see. Only JennysRC has them. None of the TLRT specific parts are available from HH yet. Been a while since the TLRT was released. What gives with this??? Are they sitting off the coast of Cali. in a container ship somewhere???

Yea well I'm glad it was the brace doing the bowing.
As far as the missing chassis out there....who knows what else is sitting iin those container...maybe a secret new model someone is coming out with but wont announce until they have that first batch in hand??? hahaha

Anyway cant wait for feedback from the maiden run!

 

[leroychurchill]

Wow, that is awesome! I really wonder how much differently yours drives compared to mine? Hopefully you get to take it out soon, I have been able to drive mine a few times, and sure is fast and nimble.

 

[~Kaos911~]

Realizing this is a 5 month old thread, I really enjoyed the read. @SrC you are always so informative when replying to other threads and reading about this build was no different. You have a way with words and an attention to detail. Great thread and thanks for sharing you knowledge.

 

[SrC]

TYVM. That was flattering.
I just enjoy helping and sharing how I do this hobby, among others I have.
Doing RC for so very long. Never put it down in 35+ years.
So it became a lifestyle a guess.

 

[RobRun]

Nice build! Did you ever get a chance to run your TLRT at the track or off-road?

 

[Mirkdiggler]

In all my years, among my collection of RC's, I never owned a Buggy of any type.
I considered the Tekno $EB48$ because I prefer to build kits.
The TLRT Typhon came out. With no real fanfare. A roller at that, and it fit the bill. The price was right too.
It claims to be a race ready platform and it is. I don't see any real TLR technology or design anywhere to be honest. It is a Team Durango DEX8 "Light" if I had to describe it better.. Just with TLRT livery all over the place. The factory assembled it fairly well. Yes, Decals were misplaced and peeling off as usual. Nothing new with that. Just one stripped screw at the front plastic brace and the 3 diffs were low on oil. The chassis had a bow in it, noticed right out the box and checked with a straight edge. Turns out the F and R braces were a poor fit and caused this bowing. Perhaps these braces are not the best fit for this TLRT chassis? A hair too longish... Got EXB F and R braces and the chassis bow is gone. Better fit over the Plastic stockers. Go figure. Gained some weight as a result. Overall, this was the best built 6s Arrma I ever received. I would even venture to guess it was made at a different facility? IDK for sure. Nothing else was over or undertightened. No excess Threadlocker anywhere. Diffs smooth perfect. Included spare shims were used when I topped them off with oil.. One each at F and R diffs. A welcome surprise overall to me, since mine was an early release, maybe a sign it wasn't built by the same facility or by the normal labor as with other Arrma's. Perhaps special attention was given for this model? Seems this way.
My objective is to build it more as a Race example of an Arrma rig. As opposed to a standard RTR Typhon Basher as best I can. It will never see a track. 99% of TLRT's will never be driven as such.

Parts list:

- HW XR8 Plus/ 2250kv G3 4274 Motor combo (Sensored)
- 40mmx10mm Alloy motor fan. (without any HS) (AMZ)
-40mm Fan motor mount
-40mm generic PC fan grille. Least air restriction. No, not fancy looking, I agree. Just functional.
-XT90 ESC connector plug
-DS3235 35kg Servo. (Amazon)
- (4) Reefs servo Washers. Item #SEHREEFS50 (8 pack) Used standard M3 12.9 Flatheads with these washers. Servo is rigid now.
-Arrma 25 spline servo arm
-F/R EXB braces. Fr-ARA320564, Rr-ARA320566.
-Arrma Droop screws. M4x10mm. AR727410. Domed. Stocker droop Grub Screws damage/gouge out the chassis droop ears. I always toss these out the box.
-(2) Motor mount mesh screws. (McMaster-Carr) (M4 3mm hex) Stocker M4 2.5mm strips easily. Thank you @Engineer for sending me 4 of them.
-NB4 Radio/Rx. Have on hand for other my rigs. Will Not be running any Gyro with this rig. Just pure driver input. As with any track rig.
- (2) Arrma Stainless Steel Rear skid plates. ARA320625. Using one at the Front also. Yes they are heavy. But as robust as it gets IMHO. Using 2 balances out this added chassis weight nonetheless. No front Bumper will be used. As with all Track buggies, none are used.
- CF spacers for the Rear EXB brace at the wing mounts.
- 2 EXB Diff Drive Rubber Inserts for the rear outdrives. ARA311028.
- I used the included Smaller Wicker bill for the rear wing. Least downforce. Also makes the wing more rigid vs. using none at all.
- (2) CNHL 4s Lipos. Hard case 5600mah 120C Race packs. (1.2lbs/556.5 grams) A steal at $40 each. AMZ. The fit is dead Perfect to the mm.
- Proline Axis Typhon Body. # 3580-00
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Build:

-All 3 diffs were low on oil. Topped off with 10k I had here. Close enough. Will refill after a break in. I used my Shock Vacuum Pump to bleed out any air.
- Motor and Electrics fit no issues. ESC can be tight. But HW includes a mount bracket I attached to the stocker Arrma ESC mount. I used double sided tape in addition to the 2 screws of the HW mount.
- TLRT comes with the Oversized Rx box. Fitting any Rx will be no issue.
-DS3235 Servo mounted up fine. The Included servo spacers were not needed. Servo floats above the chassis and the servo arm is flat and horizontal.
- I used some Teflon Tape inserted into the suspension ball ends to remove any Steering slop. Common with Arrma. I always do this with my On road rigs. More precision.
- Wheel alignment was horrible out the box. Nothing new here. F/R Camber and F Toe set for Zero degrees. I left the stock Hing pin mounts in place unchanged. ( Pills)
I had to remove the 2 lower Pivot Ball washers to get the Front camber correct.
-Front Shock Droop set to 98.4mm. (Eye to Eye length of the shock) Rear Shock Droop is at 119.2mm
- Front shock preload is 7.1mm (spring collar spacing) Rear preload is 14.3mm spacing.
- Wing is in its stock position. (high and foward setting)
- I found some loose screws here and. Yet no other stripped ones aside from the one Front brace screw at the Steering Top Plate. Fr. EXB brace uses an M4 screw. I flipped the Steering Top plate over to access the additional M4 hole for this brace. Once flipped over, the Top plate is clearly printed with the "EXB Compatible" logo. So the TLRT Typhon does have one EXB part among all the supposed TLRT parts.
- When I removed the Steering top plate, I did confirm that there are (4) sealed rubber BB's for the Steering bell crank instead of Brass bushings. No other 6s Arrma includes these BB's. A plus. Race inspired for sure.
- This TLRT Typhon is supposed to be lighter than the RTR Typhon. It is. But by comparison to most Race grade kits it fares a bit heavier than most at it's price point.
In full running weight, this came in at 9.4 lbs/4287 grams. I am running a 150 amp XR8 Plus so there is some added weight there for sure. (XR8 Pro being lighter) Keeping with 4s on this platform. It is balanced out perfectly in this way.
- Pinions are NOT included. I did some rather quick math and used an 18T to start out with. I have a full selection of pinions here.
- Using my SkyRC Digital Cross weight scale, ( full running weight) Lipo in place strapped, Plugged to ESC. Body on, Body clips in place, thIs TLRT Typhon was "Dead ON" with 50%/50% Cross weight and with 43%/57% F-R bias weight . I did no adjusting. Nor did I add any ballast. This rig came out perfectly balanced. Impressive at this price point.
Arrma did the right thing for sure. TLRT is not a basher like the RTR variant is. The pill setup is not forgiving to hard bashing abuse. This is more for technical driving. As such I will be running it at my usual Baseball Infield. Small jumps etc., as you would find at a track. Wish there was a track nearby. None exist anymore, where I live.
I have yet to drive it. It has been cold and wet here. Snow and all. Need to paint the Axis body when the weather gives me a break. Need at least mid 50F's for painting. IMHO.
18F degrees is not cutting it right now in Jan. NYC.

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Pictures:

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Totally slacking on the details. Lol.
I would say you are a perfectionist and possibly have some OCD tendencies. Great work brother.

 

[FlipSide]

Great build thread! Thanks!

I haven't bought an RC in over 2 years (last one was a Vorteks when it came out), but I am thinking about the Typhon more and more. I suspect the Typhon RTR may be one of the next Arrmas to get an update later in 2024. Looking at the new Kraton EXB RTR, I may have a hard time controlling myself if they do a great job on a Typhon V6 or Typhon EXB.

Not sure if I should consider the TLRT or stardard RTR. I do not expect to test a lot with the various suspension geometry settings, but the better quality of the material used for the TLRT is certainly appealing. I will follow this build thread for inspiration.