Spektrum receivers and SMART technology

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Oh...yea I just stuck it to the side of the rx box. Its too long to fit as the slr300 did flat on bottom. So how would should I mount it and know it'll be still standing after a good cartwheel?

I went thru the process. Gyro seemed to be working. But I had the motor wires unplugged. Rx light nvr went off. So I plugged it all back in. Turned on truck hit bind button on rx and it went full throttle without touching anything. Good thing I had the center drive shaft out. That way I caught the thing. And was smart enough to have it level off the ground tho
i have my typhon 3s set up exactly this way. its works just fine. just also put some tape underneath to keep those vibrations limited as well. here is a great link to set up and calibration from spektrum.


the issue you described about the car taking off during calibration i suffered one time and it was because i had plugged the steering into the upper most receiver slot by accident (the only concern of this tight upright mounting in the box is you cant see very well) and then the throttle immediately below which put the throttle into the steering. this threw off the sequence of calibration and when i turned the wheel it instead read that as throttle input and off she went. disaster across my work bench!!! make sure you have things plugged into the right slots and note that the upper most slot is for batt/prog and should be left open.
 
Some Rx ports are labled ST/Thr ( Spektrum)
Other brands are channel 1 and channel 2 ( most others)
1 to turn (ST) 2 to burn (Thr)
The rule.
 
The car should not power the wheels during calibration of the receiver, but treat it like a loaded gun, wheels off the ground and pointed downrange. I ran myself over with my Kraton with a dumb finger attack, it scuffed me up and I felt stupid.
 
^^^ me also. :rolleyes:

Wheels "taken off" on the bench when doing this stuff.
Or alternatively you can disconnect the Motor leads. What I usually do.
You can't be lazy about this.;)
 
The car should not power the wheels during calibration of the receiver, but treat it like a loaded gun, wheels off the ground and pointed downrange. I ran myself over with my Kraton with a dumb finger attack, it scuffed me up and I felt stupid.
boy do i agree. when i reached for my typhon flying across the work bench my forearm was against the tires and i got one SERIOUS burn and had melted rubber burned in my skin. they should have a better system for the car locking out completely during calibration until its turned off and back on again. its locked out only for the first series of calibration, which is throttle, but comes back to life for steering and after. so if your sequence is off, or you do something stupid like me and plug stuff in wrong cause you cant see well, then oh boy the fun starts.
 
Just the trials and tribulations of owning RC's.:ROFLMAO:
Hopefully it only happens that one time. Because you learned the hard way.
 
^^^ me also. :rolleyes:

Wheels "taken off" on the bench when doing this stuff.
Or alternatively you can disconnect the Motor leads. What I usually do.
You can't be lazy about this.;)
my wheels were up but zinging up to full throttle has enough torque to teeter it off the stand and there she goes!!!

unplugging the leads.....now that's just too logical.:ROFLMAO: good tip there. (y)
Just the trials and tribulations of owning RC's.:ROFLMAO:
Hopefully it only happens that one time. Because you learned the hard way.
if we all didn't have embarrassing idiot stories to tell from this hobby, it wouldn't be half as fun
 
Wheels off/removed and there won't be much rotational torque to shoot off the stand. An option.
I wrench my rig with the wheels off most of the time when on the bench. Usually take them off after I get back from bashing. I can inspect the rig better and gives me more bench space to work with. The wheels are dirty also. So I keep much crud off my my bench by removing them, and I take the opportunity to rotate them front to rear, you get more life out of the wheels. Easier to check the tires if they need some CA on the inner and outer beads. Add CA as needed after a wipe down.
 
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