Notorious Notorious CVD Axle

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sounDD

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My front CVD driveshaft keeps popping out of the CVD axle and see that it needs to be replaced. Is this common for the front CVD and any upgrade recommendations. I am planning on installing the Diff shims all around and filling the Diff fluids as the truck only has a handful of batteries through it so far. Thanks

70DAC18A-9825-4871-AC5B-324DEF48517B.jpeg
 
Take the lower control arm pillow ball spacer out or machine a thread off the arm end. Shock limiters are a bandaid and reduce travel, you can also switch to dog bones so the axle can float. Change shock geometry to not allow as much compression articulation, it’s a balancing act with stack up tolerances.
 
AXIA1358

Put these on the shock shaft to limit travel.

Still sleeping, @slick2500 ??
Nope been at work since 4:45.

It's so weird my Outcast is 5 years old and I have never had this happen, I bought my Kraton last Black Friday and it happens all the time even with shock limiters. I think I'm going to remove the top clip and shave the arm.
 
Take the lower control arm pillow ball spacer out or machine a thread off the arm end. Shock limiters are a bandaid and reduce travel, you can also switch to dog bones so the axle can float. Change shock geometry to not allow as much compression articulation, it’s a balancing act with stack up tolerances.
I appreciate the detailed feedback. I’ll pull pillow ball spacers from each side and sounds like the dog bones will be better for the axles too. Thanks
 
Nope been at work since 4:45.

It's so weird my Outcast is 5 years old and I have never had this happen, I bought my Kraton last Black Friday and it happens all the time even with shock limiters. I think I'm going to remove the top clip and shave the arm.
Yah that’s strange. Is your Outcast an older model then? I’ll shave the arm if removing the pillow spacers is not enough. Thanks
 
I have removed both pillow ball spacer installed these https://www.amazon.com/Axial-Shock-Parts-RBX10-AXI233021/dp/B08Y5R3HYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=46VQ5IG3B7PK&keywords=axial+bump+stops&qid=1677481542&sprefix=axial+ump+stops,aps,139&sr=8-1

But in the end I'm running a lot of mods and the cars heavy so I had to go to these 1631 then later again because I added more weight to the car 2914 from. I had to grind my own flats.
https://www.mwcomponents.com/?utm_term=mwcomponents&utm_campaign=Brand+|+MW+|+New&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=9346114295&hsa_cam=18071234047&hsa_grp=140967042420&hsa_ad=636062801248&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=kwd-1661658111497&hsa_kw=mwcomponents&hsa_mt=p&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo-yfBhD_ARIsANr56g5PGy7SPUtxfT4uOcsrdyKi96E9jhFgXLbqFy6YHTHxKLu7sxpsXSIaAmEAEALw_wcB

This is in a talion XL

Something to note is even with this fix my brother kraton still has the problem even after the springs just not as often. My thought is the only big difference in our cars is the shock towers. I know the talion towers are shorter and yes I have kraton shocks on my talion. Again was trying to fix this problem one of the first things I did after the spacer and bump stop mods.

Not saying you want to change shock towers just thought it might be interesting info for some one.
 
Yah that’s strange. Is your Outcast an older model then? I’ll shave the arm if removing the pillow spacers is not enough. Thanks
Yeah mine was a V1 purchased in August 2017. But literally everything has been replaced at some point in its life either from breakage, damage or wear and tear. Weird thing is it is only the one side of the Kraton that pops out.
 
Take the lower control arm pillow ball spacer out or machine a thread off the arm end. Shock limiters are a bandaid and reduce travel, you can also switch to dog bones so the axle can float. Change shock geometry to not allow as much compression articulation, it’s a balancing act with stack up tolerances.
Thanks. I will definitely switch to dog bones and will need to change the wheel side CVD axle, correct?
 
Thanks. I will definitely switch to dog bones and will need to change the wheel side CVD axle, correct?
That would be a last resort IMO, replace the outdrive cup and make sure the diff is meshed well so the outdrive can’t float. Then remove upper and lower control arm spacers to tighten up. If it still pops out you can change the upper shock mount location down and/or add tubing to limit the articulation. This can all be tested on the bench before going out by fully compressing the suspension and watching where the dogbone end sits to confirm engagement. Good luck!

RPM arms with increased flex will require more engagement 👍
 
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