Maybe those shock towers are mad eof brass lol
Casted aluminum from coke can
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Maybe those shock towers are mad eof brass lol
I mean changing the gearboxesMaybe, it's possible replace the transmission with lc changing the diff case.
Maybe, it's possible replace the transmission with lc changing the diff case.
If you want to go in this way, then, directly buy a LC Racing.
If you change the gearboxes, you will need to change the differentials, then, the input gears, then add a slipper, so buy a new spur gear, then the motor mount, the drive cup, the center drive shaft....I just took a look on the price to have the center dirve train of the LC racing : 70$, and you still won't have 6061 T6 aluminum and better cvd/dog bone. And after that you will need to change the motor because the LC racing motor mount can't take a 550, so all the electronic will need to be changed. Not a good operation imo.
Imo, these WLtoys cars must be kept as close as possible as stock, they don"t worth to be upgraded, or only if a part is really too weak. Excepted maybe the 10428 (the twin hammer clone) to put better electronics. Excepted the steel gears (which come in the 12428 now), the shock absorber and the rear center drive shaft, i did nothing else to my 12428. It isn"t the perfect car, and it will never be really better with tons of upgrades. It works fine as it is and it is fun.
But i'm also somebody who doesn't put upgrades without real utility.
I really like my 1/14 scale stuff you can break stuff from time to time but not nearly as much as you do on say an Arrma 1/8th scale and when you do they are cheap.Thanks for the detailed examination of the buggy, I'm in the middle of testing/reviewing mine. I agree that this is best kept stock, it runs OK (though the ESC seems very budget, got up to 180F running a full pack).
The good thing about this buggy is it got me interested in 1/14 scale, it's the perfect size to run in my backyard, thinking about digging up the grass and making a little dirt track!
I would go with the mod1 combo, I'm running that motor with a 10BL60 esc and it rips. 2s with the 17t pinion it moves and does backflips relatively easy. I can't imagine what it's like on 3s.
It was a Tacon but since I replaced most of the factory plastic stuff with the LC aluminum I would say it's an LC now.
Riptide still has the MT ARR or RTR with clear body. https://riptiderc.com/shop/ols/categories/rc-cars
As a heads up the kits do not come with manuals you have to download them. Not sure why they don't come with a manual.Thank you!
LC Racing is the OEM, Tacon is just a rebrand.Not too much traffic on RCTalk so I’m copying what I posted over there to here.
@slick2500 i thought it would be better to continue my questions here rather than the Arrma forum.
So, what’s the deal with Tacon/LC? Are they the same company? Same models with different names? If they’re different, how are they different? I’m torn between the Tacon Balwark and Tacon Valor Brushless models and the LC Racing equivalents. I really like LC truggy kit and would probably go that route. Would a 3650/3930kv fit? I have the below combo that I can throw in if so. If not, it may better to just buy the ARTR version because the price is pretty good considering I would need to buy a power system.
What is the 15% off Nitro RCX coupon code?
Sorry for all the questions but like in your OP, today is my birthday and I want to get one of these. I’ve narrowed it down. I’ve also thought about the Hobao Hyper TT and using the Hobbystar combo in it. What do you think? Would that be a better option over the LC?
Thanks in advance!
https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-waterproof-60a-brushless-sensorless-esc.html
https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-3650-brushless-sensorless-motor.html
I've never seen any.Anyone have a Warren RC or Riptide coupon code?
I've never seen any.
But if you want the truggy kit go with Warren Rc Steve is a really nice guy he's active on the LC Racing Facebook page and is always willing to help others out.
A few recommendations buy the spare bearing kit, it's like $6 and when assembling the slipper near the diff pinion gear use 2 bearings instead of 1. Use red loctite on the tiny screws holding the diff pinion gears onto the output shafts both front and rear and also on the grub screws holding on the out drive cups for the center driveshaft. Loctite the wheel nuts. And if you bend the front cvds buy 2 dog bones and 2 of the stub axles for the rear. Install the dogbones in the front, you will need to use some orings in the drive cups to keep the dog bones from falling out. 1 on each side of the diff and 1 in each stub axle.
1 wheel landings will break the hubs.
For aftermarket wheels/tires 2.2 Proline Trenchers and 2.2 Duratrax Lockups are the only premounts that have the correct offset. DE Racing used to make some wheels for the Mini E-Revo that were the correct offset but they are discontinued. Rear 2.2 buggy tires will fit on the stock truggy wheels.
My own comment is don't get a Hobao Hyper 10TTe. I have a bunch of videos on the truck.
Well, I talked to Steve and he said he is out of all the RTR esc’s. I may just go with the Bulwalk...
Which do you prefer to drive @slick2500, your MT or truggy?
I will check them out.
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