Is every AvC not functioning properly, or do I just have the worst luck ever?

[JimmyGuitar]

I have found no solution for the AVC throttle stuttering problem. If it’s a defect , it’s wide spread, because I have now 3 AVC in a row that all brown out the throttle when AVC is turned higher than 50%. It’s proportional, because the higher the AVC is set, the worse the problem manifests.. If your not familiar with this: When AVC is up high enough to work, there is an issue… over 50% is slight, 75% is annoying, 100% AVC the car won’t function with steering turned. With no steering input the problem is minor… the car stutters and sputters at start up for a few moments then goes… but if the steering is turned the car literally won’t drive faster than 1/2-MPH until steering is released. Anytime you’re driving at speed and turn, the car stalls out until the steering is released. I have literally had the Vortex limping and sputtering in circles for over a minute trapped in sputter mode, then I turn AVC dial down past 50% and the car flys into action. It was so bad I sent back my first Vorteks thinking it was defective, and the replacement did the same thing. I had just written it off as bad luck, turned off AVC and then my 3s infraction came Saturday… it does the same thing. It’s a speed Truck, AVC would be beneficial, so I am here again trying to solve this issue. I have watched every calibration video out there, recalibrated everything multiple times… i have disconnected the steering servo and it’s still does the basic 2-step or 3-step stuttering at start up.. the only thing that stops the AVC from ruining the driving experience is being turned way down to the point that it’s not effective or even beneficial. Let’s be honest here, if AVC causes the throttle to malfunction when you’re turning, then the AVC doesn’t work.

If anyone has solved this, please let me know. If anyone can confirm that there AVC doesn’t do this, let me know. How to confirm is easy: takes 2 seconds, turn AVC to 100, turn the steering wheel, and hit the throttle… watch as your car spits and sputters along and won’t go faster than 1/2mph and trapped. If you do drive it, any time you turn it stalls out. If anyone has AVC that doesn’t do this let me know, because that would confirm I have 3 defective parts in a row. I

 

[Dan B.]

I have found no solution for the AVC throttle stuttering problem. If it’s a defect , it’s wide spread, because I have now 3 AVC in a row that all brown out the throttle when AVC is turned higher than 50%. It’s proportional, because the higher the AVC is set, the worse the problem manifests.. If your not familiar with this: When AVC is up high enough to work, there is an issue… over 50% is slight, 75% is annoying, 100% AVC the car won’t function with steering turned. With no steering input the problem is minor… the car stutters and sputters at start up for a few moments then goes… but if the steering is turned the car literally won’t drive faster than 1/2-MPH until steering is released. Anytime you’re driving at speed and turn, the car stalls out until the steering is released. I have literally had the Vortex limping and sputtering in circles for over a minute trapped in sputter mode, then I turn AVC dial down past 50% and the car flys into action. It was so bad I sent back my first Vorteks thinking it was defective, and the replacement did the same thing. I had just written it off as bad luck, turned off AVC and then my 3s infraction came Saturday… it does the same thing. It’s a speed Truck, AVC would be beneficial, so I am here again trying to solve this issue. I have watched every calibration video out there, recalibrated everything multiple times… i have disconnected the steering servo and it’s still does the basic 2-step or 3-step stuttering at start up.. the only thing that stops the AVC from ruining the driving experience is being turned way down to the point that it’s not effective or even beneficial. Let’s be honest here, if AVC causes the throttle to malfunction when you’re turning, then the AVC doesn’t work.

If anyone has solved this, please let me know. If anyone can confirm that there AVC doesn’t do this, let me know. How to confirm is easy: takes 2 seconds, turn AVC to 100, turn the steering wheel, and hit the throttle… watch as your car spits and sputters along and won’t go faster than 1/2mph and trapped. If you do drive it, any time you turn it stalls out. If anyone has AVC that doesn’t do this let me know, because that would confirm I have 3 defective parts in a row. I

AVC doesn’t do this. None of mine do, or ever have. It seems like your setup is not on point, i.e. the trims not set properly on initial calibration, EXPO setting not in the ballpark, DR messed up, etc. etc. Or perhaps a bad servo in the first place. But your “test” method makes no sense to me at all. Turn AVC to 100, turn the wheel and hit the throttle? Why? How would this show anything was amiss when you wouldn’t be able to drive forward in the first place? That’s just the system trying to compensate for a very weird, non-standard input? Have you bench tested it? Also, nobody runs AVS at 100%, it’s far too sensitive. Most speed runners run about 15%, +/-.
If you’ve had three in a row exhibiting this behavior then I would bet apples to oranges it’s some kind of operator/setup error.
I’d recommend watching some YT vids on setup and calibration. Even though you already did. Make sure your settings are where they need to be before calibration. Maybe reset your radio to factory default, check the knobs on the radio, and start from scratch.

 

[Dales396lt4]

I have never run my AVC over 40% on anything. Try this, put the car on a stand and power it up. with AVC turned down all the way, move the back of the car Back and forth the front wheels should not move. Then turn AVC up to about 40% and repeat. The front wheels will move opposite direction from the back of the car. One more thing is this the stock servo?

 

[Johnny b]

Sorry I can't help you. You lost me at AVC. I even googled it and says something about advanced video coding....nothing to do with RC cars.

 

[JimmyGuitar]

AVC doesn’t do this. None of mine do, or ever have. It seems like your setup is not on point, i.e. the trims not set properly on initial calibration, EXPO setting not in the ballpark, DR messed up, etc. etc. Or perhaps a bad servo in the first place. But your “test” method makes no sense to me at all. Turn AVC to 100, turn the wheel and hit the throttle? Why? How would this show anything was amiss when you wouldn’t be able to drive forward in the first place? That’s just the system trying to compensate for a very weird, non-standard input? Have you bench tested it? Also, nobody runs AVS at 100%, it’s far too sensitive. Most speed runners run about 15%, +/-.
If you’ve had three in a row exhibiting this behavior then I would bet apples to oranges it’s some kind of operator/setup error.
I’d recommend watching some YT vids on setup and calibration. Even though you already did. Make sure your settings are where they need to be before calibration. Maybe reset your radio to factory default, check the knobs on the radio, and start from scratch.

Thanks for your reply, and clearly have confused the question. What I am explaining (using the word test confused the situation) is the situation in which the issue is the most extreme. Starting a vehicle from the stopped position with the wheel turned is not an extreme situation, it’s one of two options… starting off straight, and starting off turning.

At 100% AVC the problem is the most dramatic, which is why I explained the progressive issue with the more AVC the more it browns out the throttle. I have issue down to 50%.

As for trouble shooting, have reset every single setting, factory reset controllers, I have watched a dozen videos I have found, followed directions to a T on each multiple times. I worked with Arrma warranty’s technician over 2 dozen emails, I watched and followed all of the links and video and testing processes they sent me, nothing works.

I sent Arrma warranty a video of me resetting everything, starting from factory resetting the controller, to calibration of everything from throttle, to steering endpoints, to calibrating the AVC.

According to the arrma tech who watched my video, everything was done correctly. The video goes from the entire calibration to me walking outside and recreating the issue.

At this point, I might just give up the two trucks for a month and ship them both to Arrma , which is what he suggested I do… but I was hoping to find a solution… it can’t possibly be 3 bad units in a row, but nothing else makes sense.

I did buy all three from the same reseller off of Amazon… but that’s the only thing in common

 

[Dan B.]

Thanks for your reply, and clearly have confused the question. What I am explaining (using the word test confused the situation) is the situation in which the issue is the most extreme. Starting a vehicle from the stopped position with the wheel turned is not an extreme situation, it’s one of two options… starting off straight, and starting off turning.

At 100% AVC the problem is the most dramatic, which is why I explained the progressive issue with the more AVC the more it browns out the throttle. I have issue down to 50%.

As for trouble shooting, have reset every single setting, factory reset controllers, I have watched a dozen videos I have found, followed directions to a T on each multiple times. I worked with Arrma warranty’s technician over 2 dozen emails, I watched and followed all of the links and video and testing processes they sent me, nothing works.

I sent Arrma warranty a video of me resetting everything, starting from factory resetting the controller, to calibration of everything from throttle, to steering endpoints, to calibrating the AVC.

According to the arrma tech who watched my video, everything was done correctly. The video goes from the entire calibration to me walking outside and recreating the issue.

At this point, I might just give up the two trucks for a month and ship them both to Arrma , which is what he suggested I do… but I was hoping to find a solution… it can’t possibly be 3 bad units in a row, but nothing else makes sense.

I did buy all three from the same reseller off of Amazon… but that’s the only thing in common

Strange that nobody else is experiencing this. But as mentioned above, you can’t run AVC at 100%, ever. It over corrects and makes it impossible to drive in a straight line. At least in my experience, like literally impossible. Turn it down and find the level that works best for you, and it’s golden. You’ve said it’s fine under 50%? I would say that’s even higher than I run it. Why not just turn your channel 3 gain down until you like it? Why must you run it on 100%? For street cars I run 15-20% and typically don’t use it at all for off road bashers.
Maybe I’m still not properly understanding the issue?

 

[332_RC]

I don't like it. It makes it too squirrely. I run at 25-40%, never above 50. I know that doesn't solve your issue. You still have the stock servo?

 

[JimmyGuitar]

I have never run my AVC over 40% on anything. Try this, put the car on a stand and power it up. with AVC turned down all the way, move the back of the car Back and forth the front wheels should not move. Then turn AVC up to about 40% and repeat. The front wheels will move opposite direction from the back of the car. One more thing is this the stock servo?

Yes, stock servo still. As I am contemplating warranty claim I didn’t want to alter the vehicle. It’s sounds like if I extended this process your suggesting I might be able to find the sweet spot where I have the least issues and still have AVC.

Strange that nobody else is experiencing this. But as mentioned above, you can’t run AVC at 100%, ever. It over corrects and makes it impossible to drive in a straight line. At least in my experience, like literally impossible. Turn it down and find the level that works best for you, and it’s golden. You’ve said it’s fine under 50%? I would say that’s even higher than I run it. Why not just turn your channel 3 gain down until you like it? Why must you run it on 100%? For street cars I run 15-20% and typically don’t use it at all for off road bashers.
Maybe I’m still not properly understanding the issue?

Turning it down reduces issues, the lower the AVC the less issues I have, but to be 100% trouble free, AVC has to be 100% off. So it’s a balancing act…, I live with some hesitation at start and outright stalling on turns, so around 15-25% AVC I can drive the car with only mild symptoms… I’d like to be symptom free of course.

 

[332_RC]

Yes, stock servo still. As I am contemplating warranty claim I didn’t want to alter the vehicle. It’s sounds like if I extended this process your suggesting I might be able to find the sweet spot where I have the least issues and still have AVC.


Turning it down reduces issues, the lower the AVC the less issues I have, but to be 100% trouble free, AVC has to be 100% off. So it’s a balancing act…, I live with some hesitation at start and outright stalling on turns, so around 15-25% AVC I can drive the car with only mild symptoms… I’d like to be symptom free of course.

That's weird wondering if you have bad servo
What's the rig?

 

[Dan B.]

Yes, stock servo still. As I am contemplating warranty claim I didn’t want to alter the vehicle. It’s sounds like if I extended this process your suggesting I might be able to find the sweet spot where I have the least issues and still have AVC.

No process necessary, just dial down the AVC to tame the beast, so to speak. Test it like @Dales396lt4 said, car switched on, AVC on, rotate car right, wheels should turn left, etc. That will let you know if it’s functioning properly, and beyond that it’s just dialing in the proper gain.
Or the sub-par RTR servo is screwing things up, that’s a definite possibility as well. But it doesn’t sound like it. It sounds like you just want it to work properly at 100% gain, and Arrma/Spektrum AVC just simply doesn’t. Nor do most other brands of gyros.

 

[JimmyGuitar]

Just got a message from a guy at a local RC club… (friend of a friend) he said , and I quote “did you buy them off

No process necessary, just dial down the AVC to tame the beast, so to speak. Test it like @Dales396lt4 said, car switched on, AVC on, rotate car right, wheels should turn left, etc. That will let you know if it’s functioning properly, and beyond that it’s just dialing in the proper gain.
Or the sub-par RTR servo is screwing things up, that’s a definite possibility as well. But it doesn’t sound like it. It sounds like you just want it to work properly at 100% gain, and Arrma/Spektrum AVC just simply doesn’t. Nor do most other brands of gyros.

not caring about 100%, I think that’s again me not communicating well out of frustration. 75%-100% is just the point the vehicle is nearly undrivable and extremely noticeable., and I don’t hear anyone else having there car stall out on turns or sputter and hesitate on initial go from a stop.
It’s not function properly and browning out at all percentages, it’s just so extreme at 100% to the point of an undrivable rc. At 15% it’s drivable , but not problem free.

If there was a percentage of AVC without issues, I would not care it didn’t work at higher levels.

What I want is problem free, and it’s the stalling out during turns that’s the most annoying… a stutter from start isn’t that annoying, but when your trying to turn and the car just rolls unpowered until you release the steering, that’s outright annoying.

I got wind that there is a retailer on Amazon selling returned Arrma and calling it new? I bought both of these off Amazon… both only had the retail box… when I bought and it wasn’t 1-2 day shipping, the car came in an outer cardboard arrma shipping box… these two did NOT have the outer arrma shipping box, just the retail box. I didn’t think anything of it, but after he mentioned this I did recall these two did NOT have the arrma shipping box, and my 3-4 others did come in a regular Arrma cardboard putter shipping box? Maybe it’s a coincidence, but this guy says it’s a known issue with one of the guys on Amazon.

 

[razorrc]

What radio are you using? On the DX5C or higher, you can adjust the throttle correction (it's a combination of throttle and steering). I don't think the lower AVC radios have independent control.

 

[JimmyGuitar]

What radio are you using? On the DX5C or higher, you can adjust the throttle correction (it's a combination of throttle and steering). I don't think the lower AVC radios have independent control.

I was using the provided DX3 transmitter. I did just order a DX5C and I was planning to connect all of my vehicles to that single controller this weekend and also connect the included higher model AVC receiver and see if the problem once and for all is the actual receiver.


I’ll make sure to do a deep dive on the manual/features/options of that transmitter and specifically the settling you are talking about.

 

[Dan B.]

Just got a message from a guy at a local RC club… (friend of a friend) he said , and I quote “did you buy them off



not caring about 100%, I think that’s again me not communicating well out of frustration. 75%-100% is just the point the vehicle is nearly undrivable and extremely noticeable., and I don’t hear anyone else having there car stall out on turns or sputter and hesitate on initial go from a stop.
It’s not function properly and browning out at all percentages, it’s just so extreme at 100% to the point of an undrivable rc. At 15% it’s drivable , but not problem free.

If there was a percentage of AVC without issues, I would not care it didn’t work at higher levels.

What I want is problem free, and it’s the stalling out during turns that’s the most annoying… a stutter from start isn’t that annoying, but when your trying to turn and the car just rolls unpowered until you release the steering, that’s outright annoying.

I got wind that there is a retailer on Amazon selling returned Arrma and calling it new? I bought both of these off Amazon… both only had the retail box… when I bought and it wasn’t 1-2 day shipping, the car came in an outer cardboard arrma shipping box… these two did NOT have the outer arrma shipping box, just the retail box. I didn’t think anything of it, but after he mentioned this I did recall these two did NOT have the arrma shipping box, and my 3-4 others did come in a regular Arrma cardboard putter shipping box? Maybe it’s a coincidence, but this guy says it’s a known issue with one of the guys on Amazon.

Dude, after reading the above more detailed description of the problem I would bet you have a wonky servo. It doesn’t seem like it would, but they can cause very weird behavior, and the keyword here is brownout. I understand you want to keep it stock for warranty, but at least try throwing another servo in there and see if the problem disappears. I’ll bet you a beer it does.

 

[JimmyGuitar]

Dude, after reading the above more detailed description of the problem I would bet you have a wonky servo. It doesn’t seem like it would, but they can cause very weird behavior, and the keyword here is brownout. I understand you want to keep it stock for warranty, but at least try throwing another servo in there and see if the problem disappears. I’ll bet you a beer it does.

Funny you should say that, I was starting to have that thought creeping in my head over the last hour… it’s sounding like a brown out. I’ll order a servo tonight. Any recommendations on what to get and specs?

I’ll make sure to do each “fix” one at a time, and remove before trying the next.., then try both servo and transmitter together if neither individually solves the issues. This way I will know if the solution is the servo alone, the transmitter alone, or doing both together solves the issue.

Any recommendations on a new servo? I am giving this a try. Do I upgrade to a better spectrum to keep parts consistency, or is there something out there that’s a “go-to” option for arrma or armma Vortkes specifically?

 

[JimmyGuitar]

Dude, after reading the above more detailed description of the problem I would bet you have a wonky servo. It doesn’t seem like it would, but they can cause very weird behavior, and the keyword here is brownout. I understand you want to keep it stock for warranty, but at least try throwing another servo in there and see if the problem disappears. I’ll bet you a beer it does.

I ran a search for “upgrade servo” and found your advice given to someone else… YOU (lol) recommended a Dsservo 35 kg 180 from Amazon… I assume that’s good for my rig, looks decent and price is good. If that’s not correct, let me know, but looks like a winner. Thanks

I will report back this weekend after changing the Servo.

And by the way, Calibration videos tell Noobs to set AVC at 100%, but don’t say to dial it back. I think this problem is common, but only Noobs running 100% AVC see the real full tilt issue… and experienced rc guy dial it back, so they don’t see it anywhere near full tilt. My first one worked flawless below 50% AVC, this one has to get to 15-20% before it stops being noticeable. The second issue is NooBs suck at explaining the problem. I ran a search, found the problem being described by the noise it made, one guy saying his controller was disconnecting intermittently, and me saying the throttle was cutting out. Same problem, 3 different Noob descriptions. Found those on the first page of AVC-Vorteks-servo search. I could be wrong, but only noobs run at 100% (Thanks Horizon Hobby Calibration video) we do suck at explaining what’s wrong.

 

[Dan B.]

I ran a search for “upgrade servo” and found your advice given to someone else… YOU (lol) recommended a Dsservo 35 kg 180 from Amazon… I assume that’s good for my rig, looks decent and price is good. If that’s not correct, let me know, but looks like a winner. Thanks

Thats a decent servo that can almost be considered a consumable for the price. Of course there are better ones, and you’ll get 100 opinions on that. I’m still running rigs with that DS servo that are now years old and I’ve yet to replace one.
If you’re building a high end rig I’d stick to ProModeler (635) or AGFRC, I’ve used both for a long time and both have been bulletproof and trouble free.
I’ll be interested to see if that solves the problem or if it is indeed a result of an Amazon seller hawking defective receivers that were warranty returns. If that’s the case, and if you can make a case for it, I’m sure Horizon would do everything in their power to shut him down quickly.