Infraction Infraction Teardown and Issues found

[hoonigan]

Plastic shock caps. Weight savings or profit maximizing? Seems cheap to me, especially for a $700 truck.

noway
NOWAY
please say you joke

Please
We are actually talking about 700bucks car yes. and year 2019. Not 2009

And the quality controll sticker.
They must remove this if they don't make changes
https://www.arrmaforum.com/attachments/20190731_190941-jpg.44338/

ANYWAY
You must have this Car if you Love RC.
the looks,. attitude, love love.

bicketybam
tell everything you find.
Arrma need hear this , so they can change to better.
TELL EVERYTHING please.

This car goes V2 next year with Gear cover also i believe
Every single V1 no matter Brand is always not the best i have learn after many years with different cars from different Brands.
No one can make V1 perfect

If you paint that rear wing Matte Black, then youu have very bad looking car i believe. Match the bars and wheels
MMMMMMMM
i will use Plasti Dip in my.
Easy make it look like new again every year.
Just take off that, sandpaper little, then spray new coat
Yes yes

 

[SrC]

Plastic shock caps. Weight savings or profit maximizing? Seems cheap to me, especially for a $700 truck.

They snuck them in there. But I don't see that being an issue, blowing off. This is not a stunt truck. Low volume short body shocks and all. The shocks probably won't see much extreme compression. Its an on road setup.

Plastic shock caps. Weight savings or profit maximizing? Seems cheap to me, especially for a $700 truck.

That plastic shock cap bleeder screw tells me these shocks are emulsion designed, not a bladder type. Have you confirmed that yet?
Its more cost efficient to use plastic with a bleeder design. But I do agree for the price point they should have been alum. nonetheless.

The Option alum. caps don't appear to be bleeder screw type. They have an open vent at the threads for bleeding purposes.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR330491
I feel that a bleeder screw design is best for emulsion design shocks in general.

 

[SrC]

And the quality controll sticker.
They must remove this if they don't make changes
https://www.arrmaforum.com/attachments/20190731_190941-jpg.44338/

I don't follow what you are saying. ???

 

[bicketybam]

They snuck them in there. But I don't see that being an issue, blowing off. This is not a stunt truck. Low volume short body shocks and all. The shocks probably won't see much extreme compression. Its an on road setup.

That plastic shock cap bleeder screw tells me these shocks are emulsion designed, not a bladder type. Have you confirmed that yet?
Its more cost efficient to use plastic with a bleeder design. But I do agree for the price point they should have been alum. nonetheless.

The Option alum. caps don't appear to be bleeder screw type. They have an open vent at the threads for bleeding purposes.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR330491
I feel that a bleeder screw design is best for emulsion design shocks in general.

I just checked the Infraction shocks and they do have bladders. I then pulled the old plastic Typhon 6s caps (V3) from my parts bin and they are identical to what is on the Infraction shocks. So you got me. While the plastic and aluminum bleed differently, they both use bladders. Just wanted to pass that along.

Man these shocks are tiny!

 

[SrC]

That's strange. Bleeder screw cap for a bladder shock?? There is no oil to bleed above the bladder. Maybe they can be converted to emulsions with an o ring at the cap and removing the bladder. No explanation?

 

[SrC]

Looks like 1-1.5 cm compression stroke.
But that is all you need for on road.
That shock cap got me baffled. But I could see going emulsion very easily. You just need an o-ring to replace the bladder.
Also, since this is a bladder setup, you don't really need the bleeder screw in place at all. Removing it may even allow a faster compression stroke. i.e. tuning, if that is a focus.

 

[bicketybam]

Looks like 1-1.5 cm compression stroke.
But that is all you need for on road.
That shock cap got me baffled. But I could see going emulsion very easily. You just need an o-ring to replace the bladder.
Also, since this is a bladder setup, you don't really need the bleeder screw in place at all. Removing it may even allow a faster compression stroke. i.e. tuning, if that is a focus.

I went to aluminum.

 

[olds97_lss]

I just checked the Infraction shocks and they do have bladders. I then pulled the old plastic Typhon 6s caps (V3) from my parts bin and they are identical to what is on the Infraction shocks. So you got me. While the plastic and aluminum bleed differently, they both use bladders. Just wanted to pass that along.

Man these shocks are tiny!

View attachment 44792

What's the eye to eye length extended and compressed? Just curious.

As for "sending it"... garbage body v3... the trees will slow it down.

I wouldn't launch it either, but it's fun to think of sending a 100mph missile into orbit.

 

[SrC]

What's the eye to eye length extended and compressed? Just curious.

As for "sending it"... garbage body v3... the trees will slow it down.

I wouldn't launch it either, but it's fun to think of sending a 100mph missile into orbit.

I know that many here, perhaps most, imagine sending their Infr. We can joke all day long. Arrma Infr. videos elude to just that. They reflect the Arrma Tough theme. I get that.
But let's remember the Infr. is an on-road rig. Don't let the very nice Truck body fool you. It's nothing more than an On-road rig. Most of us here are only familiar with the Arrma "send it bash it" off-road rigs. That's Arrma's claim to fame. Many here are unfamiliar with on-road. Justifyably so. Not faulting that thinking.
Serious on-road bashing/ racing requires a semi groomed surface. Tires will always be an expense, no matter what brand on-road you have, be it 1/12, 1/10, or 1/7 scale. Just the nature of the animal that it is. On-road tuning, proper sway bar adjusting, shock tuning, tire's durometer specs etc., all enter the equation. Much different than an OC or Kraton. On-road for a newcomer is a great learning curve. Drag racing/ speed runs are fun. So is technical driving which is more akin to On-road. If drifting is your thing, perhaps the Infr. is not the best option. Just get a Quality Japanese drifter with "Hard solid Plastic" wheels and drift till your hearts content. That requires a different skillset altogether. You can convert a Typhon to on-road and get semi on road abilities of speed and handling on pavement no problem. But the Infr. is only on-road.
A different approach is required to get the most out of your Infr. and Limtls. Tweaking your Kraton (bent parts) for instance, with constant impacts is much less catastrophic as compared to an on-road chassis rig. Tweak your Infr. and she will run like crap. You only need a few un-discernable milimeters of tweak at a shock tower, hinge pins, or the chassis that will disturb critical geometry. This is true for any on road rig regardless of brand or scale. The Infr. and limtls. are expensive. Treat them what they are, expensive on-road rigs.
I have spent much time with on-road. It can get frustrating. But also more rewarding. That's when I changed things up and run my off-road rigs as well. They are more forgiving. This is true for 1:1 full scale vehicles.

 

[bicketybam]

I know that many here, perhaps most, imagine sending their Infr. We can joke all day long. Arrma Infr. videos elude to just that. They reflect the Arrma Tough theme. I get that.
But let's remember the Infr. is an on-road rig. Don't let the very nice Truck body fool you. It's nothing more than an On-road rig. Most of us here are only familiar with the Arrma "send it bash it" off-road rigs. That's Arrma's claim to fame. Many here are unfamiliar with on-road. Justifyably so. Not faulting that thinking.
Serious on-road bashing/ racing requires a semi groomed surface. Tires will always be an expense, no matter what brand on-road you have, be it 1/12, 1/10, or 1/7 scale. Just the nature of the animal that it is. On-road tuning, proper sway bar adjusting, shock tuning, tire's durometer specs etc., all enter the equation. Much different than an OC or Kraton. On-road for a newcomer is a great learning curve. Drag racing/ speed runs are fun. So is technical driving which is more akin to On-road. If drifting is your thing, perhaps the Infr. is not the best option. Just get a Quality Japanese drifter with "Hard solid Plastic" wheels and drift till your hearts content. That requires a different skillset altogether. You can convert a Typhon to on-road and get semi on road abilities of speed and handling on pavement no problem. But the Infr. is only on-road.
A different approach is required to get the most out of your Infr. and Limtls. Tweaking your Kraton (bent parts) for instance, with constant impacts is much less catastrophic as compared to an on-road chassis rig. Tweak your Infr. and she will run like crap. You only need a few un-discernable milimeters of tweak at a shock tower, hinge pins, or the chassis that will disturb critical geometry. This is true for any on road rig regardless of brand or scale. The Infr. and limtls. are expensive. Treat them what they are, expensive on-road rigs.
I have spent much time with on-road. It can get frustrating. But also more rewarding. That's when I changed things up and run my off-road rigs as well. They are more forgiving. This is true for 1:1 full scale vehicles.

The infraction has all the slop as well as the (lack of) tunability of a Kraton. The Infraction was made to blast around in a big parking lot or a groomed dirt surface. Pulling out gauges and rulers trying fine tune the Infraction is pointless because all of the camber and toe settings are going to vary with the slop. I agree it isn't meant to be jumped but I'm not running a mini F1 course with it either ?

 

[SrC]

Thanks for sharing the slop issue. I meant to ask that earlier. I am sure caster and camber and can be tweaked F+R to some extent?
I understand that this not race spec quality with tight tolerances. You would have to pay considerably more for one if it even existed. Its a basher like intended.

 

[SrC]

The infraction has all the slop as well as the (lack of) tunability of a Kraton. The Infraction was made to blast around in a big parking lot or a groomed dirt surface. Pulling out gauges and rulers trying fine tune the Infraction is pointless because all of the camber and toe settings are going to vary with the slop. I agree it isn't meant to be jumped but I'm not running a mini F1 course with it either ?

You probably could run a course with decent results and some wheel time and the TH AVC dialed in. Don't underestimate that. But a track for this scale is nowhere to be found. I always equated on road fun with technical driving whether bashing or track. Sometimes I bring my battery leaf blower to paved area lots that I bash at. Sounds silly but removing sand , dirt and debris changes things up.

 

[bicketybam]

You probably could run a course with decent results and some wheel time and the TH AVC dialed in. Don't underestimate that. But a track for this scale is nowhere to be found. I always equated on road fun with technical driving whether bashing or track. Sometimes I bring my battery leaf blower to paved area lots that I bash at. Sounds silly but removing sand , dirt and debris changes things up.

I'm not finding any mini F1 courses in the greater New Milford area ?

I just came back from the Danbury Mall. One of the ancillary lots was completely empty but the asphalt was rough and there were a fair amount of rocks and debris. My Infraction found it all. The inside of the body gets sand/rock blasted. I should have coated it with tape. I also should order a spare front splitter. It's getting chewed up.

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm not finding any mini F1 courses in the greater New Milford area ?

I just came back from the Danbury Mall. One of the ancillary lots was completely empty but the asphalt was rough and there were a fair amount of rocks and debris. My Infraction found it all. The inside of the body gets sand/rock blasted. I should have coated it with tape. I also should order a spare front splitter. It's getting chewed up.

Maybe make some wheel wells. Would help keep the crap out of the chassis too.

 

[SrC]

Maybe make some wheel wells. Would help keep the crap out of the chassis too.

That's one of the reasons I rather have the Limitless. It is more like a track buggy body. Closed off. But runs hotter slightly. My Pan cars and Touring cars get fouled up with rocks and debris so fast. Sometimes I blow it off with my Batt. leaf blower if I remember to have it charged and bring to blow out some pavement at bash spots. I fashioned some wheel wells for my crawlers in the same way when I go mudding. Home made wheel wells can be very time consuming to make. A lot of trial cuts and fitting. Can be done if you are creative. Find the right light weight material that you can work with. With the Infraction, maybe all you need are Internal mud flaps positioned and mounted to the chassis in just the right areas. Maybe easier. Flaps just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels. Flaps high enough to touch the body and seal it off. It may hold down most of the debris. Try to keep it simple. My Crawlers, I did more precise work for scale reasons. Infr. is a different animal altogether. Use some .040 sheet Lexan. There is a company out that molds wheel wells for RC's and not specific to Crawlers. I don't remember who and what models they make them for. I think they have to be cut to fit and are basically one piece for front and one piece for the rears. But I would not worry too much about debris. The Arrmas are debris friendly for the dirt. Steel gears and all. Just not the fans.

 

[SrC]

I'm not finding any mini F1 courses in the greater New Milford area ?

I just came back from the Danbury Mall. One of the ancillary lots was completely empty but the asphalt was rough and there were a fair amount of rocks and debris. My Infraction found it all. The inside of the body gets sand/rock blasted. I should have coated it with tape. I also should order a spare front splitter. It's getting chewed up.

Front splitters are like the tires. Keep a set on hand. I think you can fabricate those cheaply with Kydex plastic. Use the OE as a template. That's what I did on my Touring car splitters. Horizon shows the splitters on back order already last I checked. LHS may be an option.
@bicketybam don't you have a hook at your LHS. Being a celebrity and all.?? Ill take the 2 hour drive up if you can get me hooked up with a Limitless!

 

[bicketybam]

That's one of the reasons I rather have the Limitless. It is more like a track buggy body. Closed off. But runs hotter slightly. My Pan cars and Touring cars get fouled up with rocks and debris so fast. Sometimes I blow it off with my Batt. leaf blower if I remember to have it charged and bring to blow out some pavement at bash spots. I fashioned some wheel wells for my crawlers in the same way when I go mudding. Home made wheel wells can be very time consuming to make. A lot of trial cuts and fitting. Can be done if you are creative. Find the right light weight material that you can work with. With the Infraction, maybe all you need are Internal mud flaps positioned and mounted to the chassis in just the right areas. Maybe easier. Flaps just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels. Flaps high enough to touch the body and seal it off. It may hold down most of the debris. Try to keep it simple. My Crawlers, I did more precise work for scale reasons. Infr. is a different animal altogether. Use some .040 sheet Lexan. There is a company out that molds wheel wells for RC's and not specific to Crawlers. I don't remember who and what models they make them for. I think they have to be cut to fit and are basically one piece for front and one piece for the rears. But I would not worry too much about debris. The Arrmas are debris friendly for the dirt. Steel gears and all. Just not the fans.

I'm going to duct tape the inside of the body to keep the paint from chipping.

Front splitters are like the tires. Keep a set on hand. I think you can fabricate those cheaply with Kydex plastic for cheap. Use the OE as a template. That's what I did on my Touring car splitters. Horizon shows the splitters on back order already last I checked. LHS may be an option.

I just ordered 2 spares from tower, along with the screws that hold it on. $12 each. Cheap.

 

[SrC]

I'm going to duct tape the inside of the body to keep the paint from chipping.

I just ordered 2 spares from tower, along with the screws that hold it on. $12 each. Cheap.

Not tragic. Seen Videos of the Infr. Many destroyed. Limitless also. Splitters trashed right away. watch where you run. I always do a walk around for divits and holes and large rocks in the pavement before I run if I am not familiar with the location. Before its too late.

 

[bicketybam]

Not tragic. Seen Videos of the Infr. Many destroyed. Limitless also. Splitters trashed right away. watch where you run. I always do a walk around for divits and holes and large rocks in the pavement before I run if I am not familiar with the location. Before its too late.

I'll post a pic of my splitter. One sec.
Here is the wear from two packs:

Splitter

Chassis

Body

Tires

This was the degree of the ramp I had in mind. Probably a bit aggressive ?

 

[SrC]

Trim that ramp down just 2 more degrees and send it.
The road rash looks typical of my on roads stuff and even my 6S rigs.
The splitter is not bad at all. But is definitely a wearable item. But one wrong hit and their done. Yeah. Tape the body inside. Why not...
You seem to be getting some decent even wear on the tires. Camber and toe will help to wear the tires more evenly. But they look great. You have good TH control. Tires are first or second set? The dotted treads on the tires disappear fast. I don't know why Arrma even bothered with them.