Haastnooit's 3D printers

[Haastnooit]

[edit] changed the thread title from “New printer … what should I get ?”

Well ... the title says it all. I am in the market for a new printer to take my printing a little step further. I currently use a Ender 3V2, still completely stock, It is very reliable, has good quality results and I experience very little to no problems or print failures. I do not print a huge amount of parts every day, I have no ambition to do complicated multi-color prints as I see no need for it in my current use. I also don't print any masks or really big stuff.

So the printers I am eyeballing right now are:

1) Ankermake M5: (550 euro)
+ Good looking machine, the clean look really appeals to me.
+ Decent performance, semi-fast.
+ Bedslinger.
- Noisy.
- Too expensive (cost 550 euro) for the performance imho.

2) Creality K1: (430 euro on sale right now)
+ Good looking machine. Quality look.
+ High performance, really fast.
+ Core XY printer.
+ Enclosure., can be used with more different filaments.
- I do not like the position of the spool on the back of the printer, also the filament tube from the spool to the toolhead could be less practical. Filament loading looks less easy.

3) Creality Ender 3V3 KE (299 euro)
+ Decent looking machine. Most streamlined Ender untill now.
+ Good performance, fast.
+ Bedslinger.
+ Familiair layout to the Ender 3V2. Easy acces for filament loading
+ Currently not available (pre-order) and not on the market, possible issue's with first release units. However most components are used on readily available other printers


Choice is going to be between the two Creality printers ... Which one do you guys think is the best choice ?

 

[Camaroboy383]

K1 spool holder can be printed for the side of the machine.. tons of people have made them.. the rear spools weren't the best decision for sure .. very nice fit and finish on them..( nice to look at)..

The v3 ke is basically the same as a k1 just not enclosed... You can always make a cheap enclosure for the more susceptible filaments ..As of now you will be locked into creality slicer on either machine.. some profiles out there for other slicers but they are wonky at the moment..

Because they are so similar it will boil down to the enclosure needs..

I'm currently in the process of building a stand alone active chamber heater for my k1 max... That being said, because its stand alone, it could be included in any enclosure..

My vote would be for the v3 ke..

 

[dure16]

What kinds of filaments will you print most frequently? How important is an enclosure to keep warping under control?

 

[Haastnooit]

@Camaroboy383: Thanks for your reply ... I am leaning towards the E3V3 EK, I am at 60-40 right now.

@dure16: Mostly PLA and PETG, occaisional TPU. I have no issues with warping, with any prints thusfar.

Having no enclosure however is "holding me back" from trying/using other more temperature sensitive materials ... I do not have a specific need for those materials, the materials I have used so far all function OK for the applications I make prints for. However it is nice to have the possibility to use more exotic materials ... questions is, is it worth 130 euro ?

My +/- balance is slightly in favor of the Ender 3V3 EK ...

 

[MrTitanium]

Bambu Lab is having a Black Friday sale. I’d highly recommend the P1S.

 

[Moirae]

Bambu Lab is having a Black Friday sale. I’d highly recommend the P1S.

I just bought the X1c on sale for my first printer.

 

[dure16]

I just bought the X1c on sale for my first printer.

Congrats man! That’s a helluva Black Friday deal.

 

[MrTitanium]

I just bought the X1c on sale for my first printer.

Well done. Money well invested. Let me know if you ever have questions and I will do my best to guide you in the right direction.

Meanwhile, do some youtube-watching on unboxing and get familiarized with their slicer. All very user-friendly.

 

[Moirae]

Well done. Money well invested. Let me know if you ever have questions and I will do my best to guide you in the right direction.

Meanwhile, do some youtube-watching on unboxing and get familiarized with their slicer. All very user-friendly.

Thanks bro! I don't even have it yet and I'm already overwhelmed

I have looked up good tpu settings already though.

 

[MrTitanium]

Thanks bro! I don't even have it yet and I'm already overwhelmed

I have looked up good tpu settings already though.

Stock up on filament. This machine eats that stuff like a priest likes little boys.

 

[Tex Koder]

@Camaroboy383: Thanks for your reply ... I am leaning towards the E3V3 EK, I am at 60-40 right now.

@dure16: Mostly PLA and PETG, occaisional TPU. I have no issues with warping, with any prints thusfar.

Having no enclosure however is "holding me back" from trying/using other more temperature sensitive materials ... I do not have a specific need for those materials, the materials I have used so far all function OK for the applications I make prints for. However it is nice to have the possibility to use more exotic materials ... questions is, is it worth 130 euro ?

My +/- balance is slightly in favor of the Ender 3V3 EK ...

Between your choices-
I vote for the K1
The spool location and the top cover/Bowden angle can be easily fixed/modded.

Also, I've seen some news about More Creality "Ender style" models coming out soon... So you might want to hold off and see ,if you can wait a month or two more.

 

[Tex Koder]

...
Also, I've seen some news about More Creality "Ender style" models coming out soon... So you might want to hold off and see ,if you can wait a month or two more.

Speak of the devil..

For your consideration >>

CR-10 SE

 

[Haastnooit]

Bambu Lab is having a Black Friday sale. I’d highly recommend the P1S.

I just bought the X1c on sale for my first printer.

Nice printers but I do not print enough to justify the cost of getting either. P1S now on sale for 670 euro and the X1C is 1380 euro with AMS.

 

[Haastnooit]

I bit the bullet and just ordered the K1 …. 416 euro with additional code for 15 euro off.

I decided it would be more beneficial to my print capacity to have 1 open and 1 enclosed printer in stead off 2 printers with the same set up. I can always replace the E3V2 with the E3V3KE in the future, when the new version is tested and tried.

 

[Haastnooit]

So finally after 5 working days the K1 was delivered last saturday. I have been very busy past week and really did not have a lot of time to play around with my new Creality K1 printer. However I managed to install all the update parts I prepared, below some pictures of them installed.

Lid-riser

I removed the stock 4 shorter screws in the top of the printer, which are only there for the magnets of the lid to attach to. They are not structural so no worries there. I secured the four corners of the lid-riser to the top of the printer with some longer caphead screws (M3x30mm).

Side spool holder and run-out sensor relocation

To install the spool holder and bracket for the run-out sensor you will need to replace 4 of the stock screws on the right side panel for some longer M3x12mm (3) and M3x15 mm caphead screws. Notice the screw that attaches the sidepanel to the fan is longer.

You will have to open up the electronics from the bottom to get more slack in the run-out sensor cable. To acces you need to remove the 4 rubber feet and 2 additional screws. To get more slack simply cut the tie-wrap and install a new one when ready.

270° door-hinges

This should be stock configuration ... The stock door opens up to only around 100° or something. I feel you will most certainly bump in to the door when you leave it open, I know I would. To install these print-in-place hinges I removed 4 screws in the sidepanel (replace them with M3x12mm caphead), the stock hinges need to be removed from the glass door. The plastic bushings are re-used, the screws are replaced (M3x12 buttonhead with M3 locknut).

In order to make installation easy and control the spacing of the gap around the glass door and the touchscreen I recommend to lay the printer on its back, arrange the door and tighten the screws and nuts before standing the printer upright.

With the doorlatch the door is secured out of the way. The latch catches the door handle.

 

[Tex Koder]

So finally after 5 working days the K1 was delivered last saturday. I have been very busy past week and really did not have a lot of time to play around with my new Creality K1 printer. However I managed to install all the update parts I prepared, below some pictures of them installed.

Lid-riser

I removed the stock 4 shorter screws in the top of the printer, which are only there for the magnets of the lid to attach to. They are not structural so no worries there. I secured the four corners of the lid-riser to the top of the printer with some longer caphead screws (M3x30mm).


View attachment 334731


Side spool holder and run-out sensor relocation

To install the spool holder and bracket for the run-out sensor you will need to replace 4 of the stock screws for some longer M3x12mm (3) and M3x15 mm caphead screws. Notice the screw that attaches the sidepanel to the fan is longer.


View attachment 334734


You will have to open up the electronics from the bottom to get more slack in the run-out sensor cable. To acces you need to remove the 4 rubber feet and 2 additional screws. To get more slack simply cut the tie-wrap and install a new one when ready.


View attachment 334736


270° door-hinges

This should be stock configuration ... The stock door opens up to only around 100° or something. I feel you will most certainly bump in to the door when you leave it open, I know I would. To install these print-in-place hinges I removed 4 screws in the sidepanel (replace them with M3x12mm caphead), the stock hinges need to be removed from the glass door. The plastic bushings are re-used, the screws are replaced (M3x12 buttonhead with M3 locknut).

In order to make installation easy and control the spacing of the gap around the glass door and the touchscreen I recommend to lay the printer on its back, arrange the door and tighten the screws and nuts before standing the printer upright.


View attachment 334737


With the doorlatch the door is secured out of the way.


View attachment 334738

Great mods!!

That door hinge upgrade alone > 110% improvement.

So, did you receive the upgraded extruder and hotend with your unit?

 

[Haastnooit]

Great mods!!

That door hinge upgrade alone > 110% improvement.

So, did you receive the upgraded extruder and hotend with your unit?

Thanks ! Yes, I purposely bought my K1 from the official Creality store directly to make sure I got a updated version.

 

[Tex Koder]

Also, have you noticed any issues with the chain guide rubbing the left side of the chassis while printing? I guess on bigger prints that will be more noticable...

 

[Haastnooit]

First prints

I got around to making two testprints of the included STL files, I printed the 17min benchy and the articulating cat. Both are blistering fast ... I am amazed.

I did not bother to print the 600mm/sec speed test file. After the first 2 prints I know it is really fast and I see no need for printing a non-realistic file just to observe speeds I will never print at.


Results ...

[edit]

Also, have you noticed any issues with the chain guide rubbing the left side of the chassis while printing? I guess on bigger prints that will be more noticable...

When the printhead is all the way to the leftside (printing on the very edge of the buildplate) the cable chain is pressed against the chassis of the printer and in case of using a lid-riser to the side of the lid-riser. I removed the bowden tube out of the chain and fixed it on top of the cable chain with some clips, this makes the chain less stiff and more flexibel. I don't feel this is going to be a issue when printing.

The chain also hits the side when the printer is performing the bed leveling.

 

[Tex Koder]

First prints

I got around to making two testprints of the included STL files, I printed the 17min benchy and the articulating cat. Both are blistering fast ... I am amazed.

I did not bother to print the 600mm/sec speed test file. After the first 2 prints I know it is really fast and I see no need for printing a non-realistic file jut to observe speeds I will never print at.


Results ...

View attachment 334746

View attachment 334747

View attachment 334748

View attachment 334749

View attachment 334750

View attachment 334751

View attachment 334752

View attachment 334753

Looks Good.
How fast did they complete?

If not at 600mm/s what was the actual speed??